RMI Expeditions Blog
RMI Guide Nick Scott and the Five Day Climb reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning! Nick reported blue skies, light winds, and chilly temperatures on the summit. The team began their descent to Camp Muir a shortly after 7:30 AM. Once back and Camp Muir, the team will repack after their two nights on the mountain before continuing their descent to Paradise.
Congratulations!
Posted by: Mike Walter, Nikki Champion
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guide Mike Walter reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. RMI Guide Nikki Champion reported good weather with moderate winds on the summit. The team began their descent at 7:30 AM. They will return to Ashford this afternoon.
Way to climb!
Congrats Team! Way to go Andy! \o/
Posted by: Darla on 7/31/2019 at 11:16 pm
Congratulations Team! And special congratulations to our buddy Andy Booth for making the summit this morning. You earned it!!!
Posted by: Tideworks Mountaineers on 7/31/2019 at 8:45 am
Posted by: Brent Okita
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
Waking up early this morning after our celebratory dinner last night could have been harder had we not had our safari to look forward to. Day one had us visiting Lake Manyara National Park, home of the elusive tree climbing lion.
Well, no lion was seen ready to pounce upon our Landcruiser, but we enjoyed a spectacular first day. Even before getting off the highway we had giraffes and zebras run across the road right in front of us, miles from the park. Once in the park our drivers, Godson and Fabian, proved to be inexhaustible sources of information on everything from the flora and fauna of the region to the culture of the Maasai. And they have such sharp eyes!
We were treated to wildlife sightings around every bend in the road, it seemed. The cute, curious, intelligent baboons were everywhere and some of the first animals encountered, but shortly after that we saw elephants, water buck, wildebeest, zebras, water buffalo, hippopotamus, impala, monkeys, and probably a dozen varieties of birds.
Liz jokingly commented that she only climbed the mountain to do the safari, and that she really wanted to see an elephant. Well, her wishes came true as we saw perhaps a dozen elephants, some quite close up! Watching a hippo snap its monstrous jaw down (with a reportedly 6 ton force) was another highlight. But perhaps the ever present baboons provided the most amusement as they seemed to like to hang right by the roadside, so up close and personal sightings were common and way too entertaining.
And now we're settled in to the Plantation Lodge, an over the top lodge converted from an old coffee plantation that is luxury and swankiness redefined. At least in my eyes. Dinner can best be described as 'haute cuisine' and a wine cellar and bar lie in a subterranean set of rooms one can peer into from a circular window set in the floor of the dining room above. Crazy!
Ok, after our 'kick ass' day summiting Kili, we deserve this!
Bon appetite.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Posted by: Andy Bond, Avery Parrinello, Coby Walsh
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The July 27 - 30 Four Day Climb reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning led by RMI Guide Andy Bond. Andy reported a beautiful day and a great route. The team enjoyed some time in the summit crater before starting their descent around 6:30 AM PT. Once back at Camp Muir the climbers will repack and continue down to Paradise.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
What an accomplishment! Have a safe climb down!! See you soon.
-Mary
Posted by: Mary Bauer on 7/30/2019 at 9:56 am
Read job ! I’m very proud of all of you. See ya soon. Don
Posted by: Donald Miller on 7/30/2019 at 8:20 am
Posted by: Robby Young
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Greetings all,
It’s been a whirlwind of a few days following our summit of Pisco on Friday. From the summit of Pisco onwards, we’ve been on the move, starting with a descent to Huaraz, a quick turn-around of packing, followed by a great celebratory dinner at our favorite Peruvian restaurant, Encuentro. Check out the photo of the feast that ensued, with props to Trey for going for the customary Peruvian dish, Guineau Pig (Cuy). He even ate it like a Peruvian, but we’ll omit a few details for our sensitive readers.
A long bus ride back to Lima on Peru’s Independence Day put us in position for our long overnight flights back stateside. I just landed in Los Angeles, and other members of the team are doing the same in other cities across the US this morning. It’s amazing how quick it feels between the time we’re standing on the summit of our final climb, and the time when we’re heading through customs in a blurry travel haze.
Our time in Peru, while it’s physically concluded, it’s a place that will certainly have a permanent impact on all members of our team. The mountains are very much unique on this planet of ours. The climbing is exquisite, the sunrises are the best in the world, the food rich, and most of all, the people are unbelievably welcoming and kind to us visitors. A big THANK YOU goes out to our guides and local staff down in Peru, including Alvorado Adventures guides William and Alfie, long time co-guides of RMI down in Peru. As well as our exceptional chef Emilio and his assistant Roger, who’s 5-star cooking was such a huge part of our experience and our success.
That’s all until next season. Thanks for following along blog fans. Enjoy a couple pictures from our final summit!
RMI Guide Robby Young and your favorite ESS-Peru Team
Robby ... thank you so much for all of the updates. You have some excellent writing skills! And thanks for getting everyone thru unscathed. Enjoy some downtime!!!
Posted by: Bridget on 7/30/2019 at 3:05 pm
Posted by: Brent Okita
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
Our long summit day yesterday was rewarded with a deep, well deserved slumber last night. It was good to be back in the thick air of 10,000', but our return to the rain forest seemed relatively abrupt after having spent the last five days in the arid conditions up high on Kilimanjaro.
Camp was abuzz with activity early this morning as the staff from all the teams awoke on this last day with the anticipation of returning home, taking showers and seeing loved ones overwhelmed any desire to sleep in. As per tradition, we were bid farewell by our mountain staff with song and dance. Amazing voices and an appreciation for each other was obvious as the team went back and forth between chorus and lead singing, performing some traditional Tanzanian songs.
The hike out to the trailhead was quick as this strong cast of climbers grew stronger with every foot of elevation lost. Our last mountain lunch - a traditional Tanzanian meal - was taken at the trailhead before our 2+ hour drive back to our hotel. Showers were foremost on our minds to wash the seven days of dust, sweat and Kilimanjaro dirt off our selves.
We'll be celebrating tonight at dinner, enjoying each other's company before starting off on our next adventure, the safari. Unfortunately, we'll be losing Darren from the group as he'll be flying back to loved ones and life back home.
So... next up we'll be reporting from the wilds of Africa. The stuff we've marveled at on TV or the National Geographic.
Until then,
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Congratulations!! I can’t imagine what everybody had to go through to Summit. I hope everybody found what they were looking for on that mountain. My heart goes out to everyone , And to you Mary,wow you are something else.LU .
Posted by: David Workman on 7/29/2019 at 10:43 am
The Five Day Climb led by RMI Guide Alex Halliday reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team experienced good weather and a good route for their climb this morning. The team left the summit crater of Mt. Rainier shortly before 8:00 AM. We look forward to seeing them in Ashford this afternoon and hearing about their time on the mountain.
Way to climb!
So proud of you tab. Can’t wait to hear all about it. Love you
Posted by: Candace on 7/30/2019 at 8:19 am
Tabz, you are amazing!! Way to go!
Posted by: Daisy on 7/30/2019 at 2:10 am
With good weather and a good route, RMI Guide Dave Hahn and the Four Day Climb reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team began their descent from Mt. Rainier's summit crater around 7:30 AM. They will descend to Camp Muir to rest, refuel, and repack before continuing their descent to Paradise. We will see them in Ashford later this afternoon.
Congratulations climbers!
Well done…! Very proud of everyone ! Thanks to all who helped. See ya soon.
Posted by: don miller on 7/29/2019 at 9:58 pm
Posted by:
Categories: 50 Years of Climbing
RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Dave Hanning with Mark Icuss at Camp Protection on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Courtesy Mark Icuss.
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In honor of our 50th Anniversary, we are featuring stories of first climbs. Stories from guides and stories from climbers. Today we are excited to share Mark Icuss' story of his first climb: Mt. Rainier. Twenty-one years ago, Mark's life changed forever when a friend asked him to climb Mt. Rainier. Would you like to have the story of your first climb featured on our blog? Find out more!
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Twenty-one years ago a friend posed a question to me after a session at the rock gym. "Dude, you want to climb Mt. Rainier?"
Without thinking twice, I immediately said “YES!”
Up until this point I had zero mountain experience, I had never winter camped, never carried a heavy pack, and never walked in crampons. I did however, read “Into Thin Air” and was infatuated with the adventures these climbers were having.
Being a kid from Chicago, climbing anything, let alone a big mountain like Rainier, or Everest for that matter, was a ridiculous thought. "City people don't climb mountains," “You have no idea what you’re doing," and “You can get hurt or killed" were some of the things I was told by friends and family.
All I knew was I wanted to experience what it felt like to go on a grand adventure in the "big mountains."
We booked the 5-day expedition seminar with RMI and commenced "training" which in Chicago meant walking on a stair machine with a weighted pack for a couple hours at time a couple days per week.
Flash forward a few months and our departure date of June 1st was a few days away. My buddy who arranged the trip called in a panic and said his "medical condition" had flared up and he was going to have to bail! We were devastated, he was the only guy with any experience and the defacto "leader" of the group.
Myself and my other buddy had a decision to make...bail with him or just do it. We chose the latter.
A couple days later we landed in Seattle as wide eyed 24-year olds with ridiculously heavy packs not knowing what we were in for. Upon arriving at Paradise, surrounded by seasoned guides who looked way stronger and much tougher than us we realized we were possibly in waaay over our heads.
We met our guides (Dave Hanning and Adam Knoff, who was just starting out his guide career) along with the rest of the team for a quick meeting and instructions on what was expected of us and what to pack. We were leaving the next morning.
Shouldering a poorly fitted 60 lb. pack felt like absolute hell and we hadn't taken a step! We started moving up hill, learning this technique called "pressure breathing," guides pace, and the "French step."
A couple hours into the hump and we were all wasted and questioning what we had gotten ourselves into. After a quick break we continued upward and Dave stopped us and said to turn around. We all did and realized we were above the clouds; I had never been in such awe in my life and at that point knew the mountains would be a part of my life forever.
We arrived at a camp below Muir and set up our tents in a snowstorm, it was crazy, scary, and incredible all at the same time.
Summit day came after the typical crevasse rescue training a couple days later. We lost a few team members along the way due to fatigue and altitude issues, I kept going with four other guys on my rope team. We climbed through the bitter cold but clear night up to the "point of no return" at 13,000’ just as the sun was rising...I had never seen anything so beautiful.
Mark Icuss on the summit of Mt. Rainier.
We pushed ahead and before I knew it Dave said, "Congrats team, you've just climbed Mt Rainier! I've never been happier in my life and once again knew that the mountains would be a part of my life forever.
Flash forward to today, 46 years old and I've been on a trip every year since. Aconcagua, 14'ers in Colorado, all of the Tetons multiple times from multiple routes, multi-pitch routes, ice climbing, two trips to the Himalayas, and so many more.
2018: Moving up to Camp 1 on Ama Dablam.
My life was so deeply shaped by that first climb of Rainier; I have no idea what would have happened if I would have bailed. Being forced to stay in "alpine shape” for 25 years, the friendships, the epics, the close calls, and the successes have all shaped my life for the better.
None of it would have been possible if I hadn’t said “YES” to that original question of..."Dude, you want to climb Mt. Rainier?"
I owe my life of adventure to you guys, thank you for doing what you do.
Mark Icuss on the summit of Mt. Rainier.
We pushed ahead and before I knew it Dave said, "Congrats team, you've just climbed Mt Rainier! I've never been happier in my life and once again knew that the mountains would be a part of my life forever.
Flash forward to today, 46 years old and I've been on a trip every year since. Aconcagua, 14'ers in Colorado, all of the Tetons multiple times from multiple routes, multi-pitch routes, ice climbing, two trips to the Himalayas, and so many more.
2018: Moving up to Camp 1 on Ama Dablam.
My life was so deeply shaped by that first climb of Rainier; I have no idea what would have happened if I would have bailed. Being forced to stay in "alpine shape” for 25 years, the friendships, the epics, the close calls, and the successes have all shaped my life for the better.
None of it would have been possible if I hadn’t said “YES” to that original question of..."Dude, you want to climb Mt. Rainier?"
I owe my life of adventure to you guys, thank you for doing what you do.
Marc,
Congratulations on your successes! You have big shoes to fill following Jim and Lou. I love all climbing videos and books. One of my favorites was the American team when they made the summit of Everest in 1963 on both the regular route and the west ridge. Maybe I’ll read or watch a video about you some day.
I’m extremely impressed with RMI’s safety record. Have fun!
Susan
Posted by: Susan Moore on 7/29/2019 at 11:12 pm
What a day and what a team. Our luck held out with an evening that was clear, windless and fairly warm. At 12:30am we were walking after being fed by our great kitchen staff. Our slow pace was key to not overheating the engines when climbing in the rarefied air above 15,000'.
We got to Stella Point just after dawn then on to Uhuru Peak, the summit, shortly thereafter.
Did I mentioned that EVERYONE SUMMITED! Yeah, the team rocked it today, enjoying sunshine and warm temps while taking summit photos at 19,340'.
Our descent back to camp went smoothly and we were treated to another wonderful meal before packing up and hitting the trail for the thicker air of Mweka Camp at 10,000'. Dropping down from 15,000' does amazing things for the body, and so worth the effort to get here after a hard summit day.
And now, dinner awaits before a well deserved sleep.
Goodnight from Kilimanjaro on our last night on the mountain.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Congrats, Mary!!! I am so proud of you. Way to be amazing!
Posted by: Jen C on 7/28/2019 at 3:59 pm
Mary, You did it congratulations! And congratulations to the team. Mary, I can’t express the joy I have for you right now. I will tell you when I see you. And I can’t wait to hear of your adventures, May I say you are truly a bad ass woman with a purpose!Again team well done ,My hat comes off to all of you and everybody who walked that mountain.
Posted by: David Workman on 7/28/2019 at 9:38 am
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So glad you made it! Nice to meet so many of you during our 4 day climb!
Posted by: shannon austin on 7/31/2019 at 11:26 pm
Congratulations to the team! Proud of you! Wish we were with you, beautiful view. How’s the air up there?
Posted by: Sky dog, Hilly, Belle and Rocket Lewis on 7/31/2019 at 4:18 pm
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