RMI Expeditions Blog
On The Map
Posted by:
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
When training for any sport, the best training advice is that you need to “do the sport.” If you are training to run a 5k race, you should spend a significant amount of your training running. 24 hour mountain bike race? You are going to spend a lot of training time on a bike. Crossfit competition? You’d better flip a lot of tires, do a lot of burpees, and swing a lot of ropes. So what do we do when our chosen sport is mountaineering?
For the lucky amongst us, we have mountains and hills nearby. We can lace up a pair of boots, put on a weighted pack, and head out the door for a several hour hike. So many of our climbers don’t have the luxury of living nearby mountains (for many, not even many hills), yet so much of our training advice relies on gaining vertical elevation throughout the workout. For flatlanders, one of the best options to still achieve vertical distance during a workout is to use a treadmill set at its max incline.
On Mt. Rainier we aim to climb at a pace of about 1000 ft/hour. We use this measure because our pace varies with the terrain. In flatter terrain with less rise per step, we’ll up the tempo and move a bit faster. As the terrain gets steeper and the effort increases, we back the speed down somewhat, all in an effort to continue to move efficiently. 1000 ft/hour, therefore, is a useful benchmark in your training.
A treadmill typically has a max incline of 15%. To climb 1000ft. on a treadmill therefore, you need to walk roughly 1.25 miles of horizontal distance (what the treadmill measures). Setting the pace to 1.25 miles per hour on the treadmill will approximate the pace of the climb, at least on paper.
There is a physics argument around frame of reference that argues that a treadmill should be the same effort as hiking outside (the same argument is made for stairmasters), however, physiological studies show that heart rate and oxygen consumption (a way to measure effort) are lower on a treadmill for the same pace on solid ground. This suggests that a treadmill then requires somewhat less effort and is in effect easier. How much easier? This is a difficult question, that doesn’t have an answer. With this knowledge, we can simply set our pace to be faster than 1.25 miles per hour and increase the difficulty through speed. If we increase the difficulty enough, we will approach the difficulty of the climb.
Other great options for tailoring your training to the vertical gain involved in climbing include stadium or office building stairs. In this case, you are moving your center of mass uphill, just like in mountaineering, so 1000 ft/hour will feel similar to the actual effort. Embrace the options that are available to you, grab a pack and some weight, and see how much vertical you can incorporate into your training!
_____
Comments? Questions? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!
Hi. I have an inclined NordicTrack treadmill that goes up to 40% incline. It just doesnt feel like its 40% because I can do 2 miles an hour at this from 20% to 40% climbing about 3000 miles and i am tired but not “dying”- like at different climbs. Any suggestions?
Posted by: Mo on 12/12/2024 at 8:07 am
Standard route on rainier is a hair over 9,000 feet gain no? An elevation gain of 1,000 feet per hour seems really fast.
Posted by: Jim on 4/21/2024 at 3:05 pm
RMI Guide Eric Frank calls from the summit of Orizaba, Mexico.
On The Map
I am beyond thrilled for you Dave, and the team! Sending great vibes for your descent of Orizaba! Enjoy!!
*L
Posted by: Lori Macaluso on 3/9/2019 at 11:24 am
On The Map
Posted by: Eric Frank, Jenny Konway
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
On The Map
Happy to hear this trip is going great for everyone! Dave Kestel your Rainier gang is proud of this accomplishment! Can’t wait for you to talk our ears off about it!
Posted by: Jodi Kirincich on 3/7/2019 at 1:30 pm
So great to hear you guys had success and reached the Top!! So Cool! All the best from your Canadian climbing buddy Dave K!
Posted by: Darcy M on 3/7/2019 at 2:39 pm
Round and round he goes, where he stops, nobody knows: thanks for the adventurous spirit, John. Your friends and family!
Posted by: Peg Wilson on 3/7/2019 at 7:03 am
Posted by:
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
One of the unique aspects of a Denali climb is that it is one of the few big mountain climbs in the world where you can’t hire someone to carry some of your gear. There are no porters, donkeys, yaks, or other pack animals. This means that once the plane drops us off at Kahiltna Base Camp at 7,600’, we have to find a way to move three weeks worth of expedition provisions and our gear up the glacier, and this necessitates each climber pulling a sled.
The use of sleds is unique to Denali and Vinson Massif, and is a component of the expedition that we often overlook when we are preparing. On Denali, we typically use sleds to 11,000’, or for the first 3-4 days. While this is a small component of the expedition, those first few days can leave climbers feeling exhausted and depleted, with the bulk of the climb still to come. Spending some time training with a sled in the lead up to an expedition could help ease this.
On the mountain, we use plastic expedition sleds, not unlike a kid’s sled that you might find at a hardware store, but with a bit more length for added volume and stability. A typical climber has between 40 and 50 pounds in their sled at the outset, and we rig the front of the sled with a trace that clips to a single loop of webbing tied around the climbers backpack, preferably threading through the slot that houses the hip belt, so that the load pulls from low on the pack, about even with the hip belt. This transmits the climber’s pull most efficiently, and keeps the climber in a more efficient alignment, pulling from the center of mass.
To prepare for sleds, try pulling a mock sled during a handful of your endurance workouts (over an hour or so) in the few months leading up to the expedition. Climbing with the sled behind you not only recruits different muscles and requires strength in different areas than climbing without, but requires that we alter some of our movement patterns a bit to remain efficient. The biggest pattern to change is the bread and butter of the mountaineer: the rest step. Efficient movement with a sled involves keeping the sled moving forward steadily. Each time it stops, we have to overcome inertia to get it moving forward again. Therefore, we want to keep our hips moving forward steadily (which is a change from the rest step). We can still get some rest in our legs with each step, by locking out the back leg as we step forward, moving that leg under our hips. Using the resistance of the sled for balance, we can allow our hips to slowly travel over our back leg toward the front, while still maintaining the moment of rest on the back leg. As the hips arrive over the front leg, step up and repeat.
Climbers have found a number of sled type devices to train with; the two most common are a car tire and a plastic sled loaded with some sort of weight (even the kids!). Plastic sleds slide on grass pretty well, while the car tire doesn’t slide as well and tends to add more resistance. Using the mock sled during some of your endurance workouts is most similar to what we’ll experience while climbing, but pulling a sled during an interval workout is also a creative way to add resistance and effort. Happy hauling!
_____
Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI blog!
Unless you are properly prepared, the downhill slid experience, for the return to home segment, will be difficult and potentially very dangerous. The loaded sled, and any roped team members in front of you, will be pulling you downhill. Completely different muscle groups will be employed to resist “the fall” downhill. I would suggest thinking about training for this reverse pull by turning around 180 degrees on clear and safe portions of your ladened uphill training.
Posted by: Keith Loritz on 3/20/2023 at 6:28 am
Rob- thought I saw you in the restaurant picture with EBC crew. Have a great trip up the Khumbu. Sorry to miss you for Spain and Norway with Gabi. Namaste.
Posted by: Elsie Bemiss on 3/17/2019 at 8:52 pm
Congrats on making it to the destination, Eileen! You rock! :) Love you!
Posted by: AJ & Steph Mikloiche on 3/17/2019 at 12:17 pm
View All Comments