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RMI Expeditions Blog


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Continue to Train and Acclimatize

After packing our packs, organizing our tents, and eating lunch, we were ready to head uphill. Unfortunately though, we have been stalled at Base Camp. Our team members at High Camp radioed down that they need more time and rope to fix the route. They said the route is a bit icy and not great snow, but they seem optimistic that we will be able to give it a whirl in a few days. Till then we will continuing hanging out at Base Camp, practicing more with the girls and going on hikes. It's a good thing it's so pretty here and one can easily occupy themselves. Happy Halloween! RMI Guide Hannah Smith
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Well you’re really getting to know the place. Sounds like you’re going with the flow.

Posted by: Michelle the Mom on 10/31/2018 at 8:30 pm


Ama Dablam: Elias & Team Trek to the Base of Cho Oyu

Good evening! What a day we had... We trekked to the base of Cho Oyu, where the seldom expeditions that climb is south side set their Base Camp. Man we felt small! We also had the best views that any trekker can have of Everest and Lhotse together (without climbing any peak) from any trail in the Khumbu Region. But we had to work hard, as this was the team's first day above 5000m. An uneventful return, and we were enjoying a nice dinner at our lodge by the shore of Gokyo Lake. We're headed to bed, as another long day awaits tomorrow. Stay tuned! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
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What a beautiful photo. Very excited for you all and your continued forward (and upward) progress!
“Long, blue, spiky-edged shadows crept out across the snow-fields, while a rosy glow, at first scarce discernible, gradually deepened and suffused every mountain-top, flushing the glaciers and the harsh crags above them. This was the alpenglow, to me the most impressive of all the terrestrial manifestations of God. At the touch of this divine light, the mountains seemed to kindle to a rapt, religious consciousness, and stood hushed like devout worshippers waiting to be blessed.”
―  John Muir,  The Wild Muir: Twenty-Two of John Muir’s Greatest Adventures

Posted by: Beverly on 10/31/2018 at 5:34 am


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Rest And Train

Resting and training were the theme of today. We took time to practice using the ascenders and different techniques for descending the fixed line with the Nepali girls. They did a great job and are getting more excited for the climb ahead, as are the rest of the team. Rest days can seem long but the team is pretty creative in keeping busy. Some made jewelry, while others went to the big boulder, that we call our Nepali gym to work on abs and pull-ups. We ended the day with a delicious cherry cake for dessert. The cook has done an amazing job making us delicious breakfast, lunch, and dinners. Tomorrow we will find out from our team members at our high camp whether we move up or take another test day. Buenos noches, RMI Guide Hannah Smith
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Gloria,
We are checking the blogs everyday to keep up with this great adventure you are on.  Dana says if he was your age that’s where he would want to be!  He caught a salmon in your honor today.  Good luck with everything.  Hope you summit.  We love you!!!!!! 
Susan

Posted by: Susan Reid on 10/30/2018 at 5:57 pm


Ama Dablam: Elias & Team Arrive in Gokyo Village

Namaste! Another great day of terrible weather and awful landscapes... Just kidding. We are having an incredible time, as everyone's physiology is adapting seamlessly to the altitude of the Himalaya, and that allows for a better enjoyment of the trail, the views and cultural experience. We just arrived to our lodge in Gokyo at 4800m, and next to the Dudh Pokhari, a turquoise lake that bears the same name, and with Cho Oyu in the distance, the sixth tallest mountain of the world, a magical stay is guaranteed. That's all for now! RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
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VERY Beautiful, thank you for sharing. Safe travels

Posted by: Brenda on 10/30/2018 at 4:08 pm

Everyone looking great! Scenery looks awesome. Enjoy!
“We are now in the mountains and they are in us, kindling enthusiasm, making every nerve quiver, filling every pore and cell of us.”
―  John Muir,  My First Summer in the Sierra

Posted by: Beverly on 10/30/2018 at 5:58 am


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Carry to High Camp

The team made a carry to our high camp at 15,400'. We will attempt to climb Edurne Peak in a few days. Tomorrow or perhaps the next day, three climbing Sherpa and two other team members will head back up to our high camp and begin putting up fixed line on the route. The entire route will be fixed from high camp. If they decide there is not enough rope or it is not possible, we will not climb. The team as a whole does not have enough experience to climb without the fixed line. The rest of the team will rest and do some training at basecamp tomorrow. Fingers crossed the weather remains good and the route can safely go. Namaste, RMI Guide Hannah Smith
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Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Plan for Summit Attempt

Today was a day of strategy. Team members went on a scouting mission to see what our options are for climbing. We got good beta from a friend of ours Tyler, who also works for RMI. It was great catching up with him and hearing about their attempt at the South West face of Saipal. He gave us good information, that we might be putting into play. His team left Base Camp this afternoon, after spending almost a month here. For now our plan is to attempt an unclimbed peak, that has been named after our team member by the chairman of the region. Edurne peak will be a challenge for the team, with the Nepali girls being so new to climbing. A Sherpa team is going ahead of the group to try and put in fixed lines. We will see in the coming days if this route will be possible. RMI Guide Hannah Smith
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Awesome Hannah! Following you every step of your journey!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 10/29/2018 at 3:12 am


Ama Dablam: Elias & Team Leave Namche, Enjoy the Views

Hello again! Here we are, just below 14,000' and everyone is feeling like a million roses. We left Namche and got a step further up the hill under the best weather possible. The mountains continued to provide jaw dropping views at every corner, and having Ama Dablam on sight for most of the day was rather motivating. Yak caravans and rhododendron forests added a touch of authenticity to the Himalayan experience we're having. Tomorrow we'll continue up, towards Gokyo, acclimatizing and kicking butt! RMI Guide Elías and team
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Proud of you all!
“I am losing precious days. I am degenerating into a machine for making money. I am learning nothing in this trivial world of men. I must break away and get out into the mountains to learn the news”
―  John Muir

Posted by: Beverly on 10/28/2018 at 11:12 am

Happy for you that it looks like things are lining up well.
Love that shot !
Hello to Dawa and the team !

Posted by: Vivian M on 10/28/2018 at 2:38 am


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Acclimatize at Base Camp

Good morning, afternoon or evening! The team went on an acclimatization hike today. We hiked up the drainage then gained a ridge to get a better view of the surrounding peaks. Saipal peak is more and more impressive the closer you get. There is a peak to the right of Saipal that we are considering pursuing. It too looks beautiful. The team will discuss this evening and tomorrow on what we should do. Everyone's duffles should arrive tomorrow, which the team is psyched for. Basecamp is cozy with dining tents, bathroom tent, and even a shower tent. We are living a pretty good life up here. Talk to you all tomorrow, RMI Guide Hannah Smith
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Making progress. Keep on trekking!

Posted by: Michelle the mom on 10/28/2018 at 8:48 pm

Keep on ascending. Great to hear of your progress toward a beautiful summit.

Posted by: Richard Schletty on 10/27/2018 at 5:44 pm


Ama Dablam: Elias & Team Enjoy Day in Namche

Greetings from Namche again! We enjoyed a good day here, acclimatizing, eating local food, and taking a stroll to greet our main objective, Ama Dablam, who towers in the distance from an incredible overlook above town. The skies were blue, and Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Tamserku were also out for us. The climbers are doing great, and we're all pretty motivated, excited and determined to nail this, the first stage of our trip by hiking around Gokyo in Style. Tomorrow we depart uphill again, so stay in the loop! RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team.
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“Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop away from you like the leaves of Autumn.”
―  John Muir
Pulling for you guys. Be safe!

Posted by: Beverly on 10/27/2018 at 10:37 am


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Hold Puja Ceremony

Today was a special day. We had our Puja ceremony. For some of us it was our first, others it was one of many. A stone structure was made with a tree branch standing tall on top. Prayer flags fluttered in the breeze from the branch in five directions with our tents attached to the other end. A Llama sat in front of the structure reciting prayers as bells rang. Smoke swirled in the air. Everyone placed a piece of climbing gear next to the structure to be blessed. Food and drink offerings were also blessed. We all splashed blessed tea water on our heads, faces and body. Then we ate some fried bread and drank some tea. It was an experience we will not forget. The rest of the day has been full of relaxing tent time and snacking. As the evening approaches, the clouds roll in like clock work and snow flurries dance from the sky. It's time for tea and dinner. Enjoy your day! Namaste, RMI Guide Hannah Smith
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