RMI Expeditions Blog
June 19, 2017
Denali remains unseasonably cold for June. This actually works in our favor for the lower camps. The cold days allow us to wake up a little later to move camps or cache before the sun comes out and bakes us.
We successfully completed our mission for the day, which was to go back to our last camp and retrieve some food and gear that we left cached there. We couldn't have asked for better travel conditions with perfect weather and a great path stomped through the deep snow. We completed our task with enough time for second breakfast and an afternoon nap. This mountaineering stuff is rough!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
June 19, 2017 9:06 pm PST
Conditions were perfect at 1 AM for beginning an early morning transit of the
Kahiltna Glacier. Skies were clear and the snow surface was beginning to freeze good and hard -just the way we like it for traveling crevassed terrain with heavy packs and sleds. We got stoves going and began to dress for success. The team set out at precisely 4AM and marched down the SE Fork of the Kahiltna to its junction with the main glacier -we banged a right turn and started our climb. The glacier didn't have much good snow from the winter, so plenty of crevasses were exposed and needed crossing, but with the good freeze, the crossings were easy and uneventful. We saw ample evidence of climbers having come through in soggy, hot and heavy conditions, poking legs and bodies into the dark cold depths of the glacier. We took hourly rest breaks and accomplished our move in just under five hours total, pulling into 7800 ft just before 9. Then in calm sunshine, we set to work building camp. T
Tents went up and once all work was finished, we dove in for naps, escaping the ridiculously intense midday sun. By early evening it was tolerable outside once again and we met for dinner under the shelter of our dining tent. Forecasts for the day had called pretty definitively for new falling snow, but our reality was a pleasant summer day. We'll gladly take another day of this "storm".
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
RMI Guide Christina Dale led the
Five Day Summit Climb June 15-19 on Mt. Rainier. The team ascended to Camp Muir on Saturday and spent the following day training at Camp Muir. This morning they made their summit attempt but due to new snow over the last few days the conditions today did not allow their team to summit. They have safely returned to Camp Muir. They will repack their gear and continue their descent to Paradise later today.
The June 16 - 19 Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Paul Rachele was forced to turn around at 12,500' due to route conditions. Several days of poor weather and snow accumulation provided difficult climbing conditions for today's team. They have returned safely to Camp Muir and will continue their descent to Paradise this afternoon.
Down and clear as we say in the ski patrol world when everybody is off the mountain. We are now showered and rested. What a climb it was. It is such an amazing experience in so many ways. Climbing Kilimanjaro is a great challenge both physically and mentally. The skills you learn, the people you meet along the way, the one word that comes to mind is enrichment. A big thanks to Barking Zebra and its mountain staff, a job well done men - you all are top of the heap. We start our journey back home tomorrow but the team's flight isn't till the evening so our team is going to visit the local game park at the base of Mount Meru. It takes 19,000' to slow these guys down. They have the right attitude ....Get Out While You Can!
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
A van ride, an airplane ride, another van ride, and we're in Cheget. Super smooth sailing through our travels today, ski bags and all. Yuri is the local Russian guide who will be joining us on
Mt. Elbrus, and he greeted us with a warm reception at the airport in Mineralyne Vody. We're excited to finally be in the mountains.
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
June 18, 2017
It was overcast and gray in Talkeetna this morning when the team got in for a 7AM breakfast, but we were optimistic in any case. Things had brightened just a bit by the time we assembled in the K2 hangar, but the word was passed that fog on the glacier surface would keep planes out of
Basecamp initially. We drank coffee and fidgeted with our gear for a bit. Then we loaded the planes. Then we fidgeted a bit more. Then it was time to fly and we got our boots on. We hastily texted friends and loved ones as our two big beautiful De Havilland Otters taxied out to the runway. We were off! But then the fog came back over Basecamp and we did a u turn and landed in Talkeetna. We texted, we drank more coffee and then we loaded up for real. The flight in got markedly more dramatic and spectacular as we entered the Alaska Range. Before we knew it, we were setting down perfectly on skis on the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. There were about a hundred climbers assembled, ready to fly home and so it was a busy scene. We were very pleased to shake hands and give hugs to the two RMI teams finishing their adventures with Jake Beren and Tyler Jones. Then we set to building camp and reviewing safety procedures for travel on the lower glaciers. We'd stop every now and then to stare in wide eyed wonder at massive Mt Foraker and vertical Mt Hunter, towering over us. Dinner, some story telling and some packing completed our big day. We turned in at 8 PM with the sun nowhere remotely even close to the horizon. We'll get up early -weather permitting- and make our move in the cool of morning when the glacier surface is firmer and safer.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 18, 2017
Well folks, I'm happy to report the view is indeed gorgeous! We got a little later start today due to some inclement weather, and it turned out to be the right call. Rolling out of camp at 8, the skies had cleared and we were blessed with views of
Kahiltna Dome and Mt Crosson. I'd be lying if I said it didn't make the walking a little easier! That and the fact that we opted to cache gear at our last camp and do a back carry tomorrow. So, with light loads and beautiful surroundings, we were happy to roll into Camp 3 at 11,000' and make an extra kush home for the next few days. Joe Horiskey would be proud! We're now all tucked in and prepping for another light day acclimatizing and making the trip down to 9,600' to retrieve the rest of our belongings.
Good night from Camp 3!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
We had a great first day with our crew, stretching our legs on a
city tour of Moscow. Our guide Victoria took us on a circuit of the Kremlin, Red Square and St. Basil's Cathedral, after which we enjoyed a nice lunch at "the restaurant of many menus". All is great with us.
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
The
Four Day Summit Climb team for June 15 - 18, 2017 was unable to make a summit attempt of Mt. Rainier this morning due to inclement weather. The team will descend to Paradise this afternoon and return to Rainier BaseCamp.
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way to go guys!
Mark thanks for taking such good care of our wonderful guys. know they will be talking about climb and you for a long time.and we will all be listening attentively for every detail.
Congratulations to all!
xxoo
Mimi
Posted by: Mimi on 6/19/2017 at 11:03 am
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