RMI Expeditions Blog
June 27, 2016 - 11:08 pm PT
Another murky day, weatherwise. It was snowing lightly when we checked things at 6:45 AM, but it was calm and there were hints of clearing in some of the cloud layers stacked above us. We got up and had a slow and substantial breakfast as we watched the skies. With a few patches of blue showing, the decision was made to go on up for our carry. We left camp at about 10:15 and were promptly surrounded again by calm and listless clouds. It was a relief to be spending a day without our sleds and to be in crampons instead of snowshoes. The terrain, beginning with "Motorcycle hill" right out of camp, was steeper than any of the ground we'd covered to date, but that was nice too. We all felt a bit more like climbers with ice axes in our hands at last. The team wound up and across "Squirrel hill" to get to the lesser angled "Polo fields" below the end of
Denali's West Buttress. At least we think those were the granite walls of the Buttress... we couldn't really see very far up it in the clouds. Conditions stayed windless though, so we pushed on to Windy Corner. Nobody seemed disappointed that it wasn't living up to its well-earned reputation. We cached the provisions we'd been carrying there at about 13,300ft, digging a big hole and burying it all to keep the ravens from attacking. Then it was an easy and uneventful hour back to camp with light packs and still not much for views. We were down by 4PM and taking naps and sipping water by about 4:30. Tomorrow is a rest day, so we are less concerned than usual by the continued light snow and ever-present murk.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Hi from Huaraz,
Official Day 1 of the expedition started this morning with an excellent acclimatization hike to "
Puca Ventana" some 1,800ft above town. Good weather and better views, made a great morning for the team. If any of us doubted the hike made the heart pump enough blood to start triggering the acclimatization process, we found a stopped car in need of a jump to start, so we proved to be good Samaritans, and give the guy a push.
Some delicacies afterwards and a gear check to make sure we got what we need starting tomorrow, and we called it a day. A relaxed evening packing and enjoying the local food and fantastic facility of our hotel, is taking us to bed excited to start the journey into the Ishinca Valley first thing in the morning.
Our next post will be via our satellite phone, untill we come out to go to Copa.
Best regards, and stay tuned!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
June 27, 2016 - 7:58 pm PT
We had another early morning departure to avoid the mid-day solar radiation that can wear a climber out much faster than the cold temperatures can. Our team did a fantastic job climbing up the steep fixed lines to the ridge and then up to our camp at 17,000'. We got into camp around 1:15 in the afternoon and proceeded to build a camp that would protect us from most any weather that
Denali could throw at us. We are getting organized for a summit bid tomorrow if Denali allows. We are currently sitting in the clouds with a small amount of snow falling, but the forecast seems good for tomorrow. We will wake up and get the "nowcast" by looking up towards the summit and seeing what the mountain has to say about us climbing it.
Goodnight and wish us luck!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
Privet! We are up on the mountain and everyone is doing great. The seven of us are bunked in an 8'x8'x20' container at 12,500' elevation. We started the morning with coffee at the hotel along with the
Elbrus Ski Team who are on their way to St. Petersburg today.
After breakfast we drove to the base of the big ski area here and loaded ask our duffels on three consecutive gondolas.
Garabashi Hut is right at the top of the last gondola so we were able to drop duffels, grab lunch and head out for an acclimatization hike.
Yuri, the local guide, and I decided to try and shoot for a climb up 15,000' to speed up our acclimatization schedule as the weather forecast isn't looking great after tomorrow. Everyone did really well and we made great time up and down from 15k.
Tomorrow we are going to make a plan after checking the weather. We will ideally go over some ice axe safety techniques and go on another hike, but we will just have to see.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall and Team Elbrus
On The Map
Hi from Huaraz!
The team united in the morning at our Lima Hotel, and shortly after, we jumped on our private bus, en route to Huaraz. From hours along the Pacific Coast, to the extensive land lots covered on drying chili peppers and corn, being baked by the sun, a visually stimulating drive greeted us as we started to go up the Conococha Pass. With 1 1/2 hours left of our bus drive, we got a first glimpse of the
Cordillera Blanca, with Huascarán reigning amongst the clouds, and the Pastoruri Massif a mere stone throw from our "bladder emptying" stop in the 14K ft vicinity, right at dusk (yep, it's winter here, and it gets dark early).
We met Peter, our local outfitter and third guide completing the guide team. Dinner and bed time. All is great so far!!!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
The
Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by RMI Guides
Brent Okita and
Zeb Blais, reached the top this morning. Winds were in the 10-15 mph range and beautiful, sunny skies. After spending some time on the summit, the teams began their descent at 7:00 a.m.
June 26, 2016 - 10:49 pm PT
Our team did an excellent job relaxing this day away. We continued our tradition of rest day brunch, and then dispersed for several hours of Uno playing, book reading, and 'nappacino' taking. There was a lingering feeling of excitement in the air- partially a celebratory vibe because of
Pepper's birthday, partially an anticipatory tingle because our intention to move to high camp tomorrow will put us in striking distance of the
summit. After today our bodies and minds are recharged for tomorrow's move up to 17K camp, and we will see what the mountain has for us there.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
June 26, 2016 - 9:54 pm PT
Hello,
Today we woke to our clearest morning yet, with stunning views down the Kahiltna Glacier and onward into the Talkeetna Valley. With a hot coffee and granola breakfast in our bellies, we were ready to turn the corner at
Kahiltna Pass and head higher on the mountain. The entire team rocked the four-hour journey to 11,000-foot camp even with the continued burden of big sleds and packs.
After our tents were pitched we settled in for an afternoon siesta as the sun blazed above. By the time dinner was served things had changed as the clouds had built up around us and it was starting to snow. Now as we head to bed it seems to be coming down at a rate of 2ish inches per hour!
The plan for tomorrow is to break up the loads and carry some supplies and food to 14k. This will give us a taste of the crisp thin air of the high Alaska Range and help us in our acclimatization process.
We'll let you know how it goes!
RMI Guide Ben Liken
On The Map
We are in Azau again for the night. Today we took an acclimatization hike up to about 11,500 ft. To gain that much elevation we hopped on a couple of chairlifts and hiked for just under two hours. The weather was perfect all day and we had amazing views of
Mt Elbrus and the rest of the Caucasus. Tomorrow we are moving up on the mountain itself and we'll begin our summit preparations.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
On The Map
It was worth the wait - the weather this morning was absolutely perfect and our whole team was able to ski from the
true summit of Mt. Elbrus!
We woke up to brilliant stars and an impressive Big Dipper, and soon found ourselves being propelled uphill by snowcat to our starting point for the climb. Snow conditions on our ascent were a bit too frozen for skinning, so we put on boot crampons and threw our skis on our packs, moving efficiently up the well established climbing route. A long, ascending traverse brought us to the col between the east and west summits, a nice flat spot for a break.
Above the col we broke through the shadow line into the sun, and after a couple more hours, onto the summit plateau. 15 minutes later we were on top, enjoying spectacular views deep into the Republic of Georgia, and the impressive surrounding Caucasus Mountains. And then came the best part. A never-ending-feeling 6000' descent back to our camp. We had the full range of snow conditions on the way down; the last 2000' or so was pure hero snow - incredibly smooth, predictable, perfectly sun softened corn. Of all the teams climbing this morning we were the only skiers! Such an efficient way to travel in the mountains. Our team was back at camp hours before any other team.
After a few gondola rides down into the lush lowlands and a nice lunch, we're back in the village of Azau for a well earned celebration.
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
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Remember Kathleen “the pain is only weakness leaving your body”.We are Keeping track and living vicariously through you. Good luck on the weather and making the summit! Annette and Ed
Posted by: Annette and Ed on 6/29/2016 at 10:00 pm
Dave H: Thanks for the wonderful posts! It’s fascinating to follow the team’s progress daily - murk or not. Congratulations to all of you for your hard work so far. Cheering for you from afar!
Posted by: Julia on 6/29/2016 at 5:51 am
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