RMI Expeditions Blog

Elevation: 7,300'

June 16, 2016 - 4:16 P.M. PDT And we're off! RMI Denali Expedition #7 (known in some circles as "el Siete") landed on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier this morning around 10 o'clock to clear skies and breathtaking views of the Alaska Range. The team took advantage of the clear weather by leisurely setting up camp, and then brushing up on anchor building, crevasse rescue, and sled rigging skills. Our next move is to make some dinner and head to bed early in anticipation of our move to Ski Hill camp while the snow is at its most frozen state- is 3 A.M. early morning or late at night? We'll let you know... For now, excitement is high, stress is low, views are stunning. Love to all friends, family, and Joe Horiskey, RMI Guide Mike Haugen & gang

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What an experience! The pictures are breathtaking, but probably don’t even compare to the real view! Cheers to all of you on your amazing journey!

Have fun Phil and everyone on the climb.

Use your core ;)

Posted by: Laura Andrews on 6/25/2016 at 4:06 am

Jon, A&D is will be monitoring your progress and living vicariously through your amazing adventure!!

Posted by: Lisa on 6/17/2016 at 6:10 pm

Mt. Rainier: Teams Summit!

June 16, 2016

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Ben Liken

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Ben Liken led their teams to the Mt. Rainier summit! After some light now and 5 mph winds for the ascent, the weather has improved to blue skies and no wind as they topped out. At 9:30 a.m. the teams began their descent back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's summit teams!

Mt. Rainier: Emmons Seminar Calls 12,400’ Their High Point

June 16, 2016

Posted by: Robby Young, Bryan Mazaika, Paul Rachele, Bridget Belliveau

Elevation: 12,400'

The Mt. Rainier Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guide Robby Young is wrapping up their week on the mountain today. The team will descend from Camp Schurman to the White River Campground before driving back to Ashford this afternoon. On the summit attempt yesterday, the team was able to experience first hand snow pack analysis and decision making. As a result of the snow pack analysis the team made the prudent decision to call 12,400' their high point and descend back to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain. We look forward to greeting the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons team back in Ashford today and are excited to hear the stories from their week on the Emmons.

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team at 17K Camp Ready for Summit Bid

June 16, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, JM Gorum, Katrina Bloemsma

Elevation: 17,200'

June 16, 2016 - 1:21 A.M. PDT The wind finally came this morning and the upper mountain looked rugged from our home at 14K. Our team was ready to rock early in the morning, but Denali had other plans. Plumes of snow streamed from the Buttress and the move was to brew another cup of coffee and out chill the weather. Eventually it tapered and we were able to launch upward towards our high camp. The weather turned beautiful, almost too hot, but pleasant to build camp in once we arrived. It was a big day, but we made it and are in position to give it a shot tomorrow. Wish us luck, we're gonna need it! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jake, sending you power vibes to lead your team to a successful summit and descent. I hope there’s fairy dust on the summit ridge again this year ;)

Posted by: Meredith on 6/16/2016 at 5:01 pm

Good luck to Brad Lawler and team. Hoping you have a great summit experience!

Posted by: Matthew DeVoll on 6/16/2016 at 3:29 pm

Denali Expedition: The Upper West Rib Team Moves to Balcony Camp

June 15, 2016

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately

June 15, 2016 - 7:20 P.M. PDT Late last night winds picked up on the upper mountain and persisted into this morning. We woke up early, packed and had breakfast and then watched the wind up high. By 10:30AM we could tell that the trend was diminishing winds, this matched our forecast, so we started up towards the West Rib. The winds had filled in our tracks from the other day so we had to re-break trail back up to our cache. After retrieving our cache we pressed on to gain the ridge and then we picked our way though the first rock band and on up to the balcony camp at 17k. The weather was perfect and with spectacular views of the Alaska Range. The team did a fantastic job today and everyone is feeling good and excited to be climbing. Weather permitting we will go for the summit tomorrow. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the UWR Team

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Best of luck on your assent.

Steve G

Posted by: Steve on 6/16/2016 at 5:02 pm

Great job team!! Looking forward to your next post. Keep up the good and safe work !!

Posted by: Allison Woodman on 6/16/2016 at 4:10 pm

Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Analyzes Forecast

June 15, 2016

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately

Elevation: 14,200'

June 15, 2016 - 12:02 A.M. PDT Weather forecasts in the mountains can change wildly. Last night we heard a report of 70 mph winds on the summit and heavy snow forecast for today. We ended up with perhaps the clearest and calmest day we've had on the whole trip. The winds did pick up this evening as spindrift whipped off the upper mountain but we were quite comfortable in our camp at 14,200'. We rested today, organized gear, drank coffee, and relaxed in the sunshine. The forecast is showing a good weather window for the next three days so our plan is to move up to the Balcony Camp, around 17,000' tomorrow and then make a summit bid on Thursday. Everyone is doing great and very excited about the prospect of moving higher on this beautiful peak. Thanks for following along with us. RMI Guides Geoff Schellens and Steve Gately and team

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Good luck tomorrow guys! Hoping you get clear skies and no wind. Andrea mou, love you!

Posted by: GSD on 6/15/2016 at 8:09 pm

Jim, Trying a message again. Mom and I are sure enjoying the beautiful sights you and your team are sharing. Stoked that you are doing so well and soon to try a summit. We pray you have a safe climb, enjoy a fabulous view when you reach summit, and all come home safely. Godspeed! to you, Ben and the whole team.

Posted by: Dad DuBay on 6/15/2016 at 7:42 pm

Mt. Rainier: Summit Climbs Call Disappointment Cleaver Their High Point

June 15, 2016

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Mike King

Elevation: 12,300'

The Mt. Rainier Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Mike King turned at the top of Disappointment Cleaver this morning. The team made the prudent decision to call Disappointment Cleaver their high point after assessing the snow pack determined the avalanche danger to be high. The team will descend back to Camp Muir before continuing their descent to Paradise later today.

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Waiting At 14,000’ Camp

June 14, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, Katrina Bloemsma, JM Gorum

Elevation: 14,000'

June 14, 2016 - 8:12 pm PT With high winds still a concern we spent another day at 14 Camp on the rest and relaxation program. It was another beautiful day and the team is fully set to jet. If the favorable forecast verifies for tomorrow we will begin our shot for the top by way of the 17,000 camp. Wish us clear skies and calm winds! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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Best of luck Peter, Yeaaaaaaaaaaaaah!

Posted by: John Jnr & Marie on 6/15/2016 at 3:01 pm

The view of Denali today was just beautiful, especially since you all are on her. Praying for calm winds and safe ascent to 17K camp.

Posted by: Isty on 6/14/2016 at 9:50 pm

Mt. Rainier: Winter Conditions Turn Team on Summit Attempt

June 14, 2016

Posted by: Casey Grom

Elevation: 10,600'

Due to high winds and snow the Mt.Rainier Summit Climb was unable to summit this morning. The team, led by RMI Guide Casey Grom, traveled to the Gap (10,600') on the Disappointment Cleaver Route. Their planned departure from Camp Muir is 10:00 a.m.

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team 14K Camp Day of Rest

June 14, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, JM Gorum, Katrina Bloemsma

Elevation: 14,200'

June 14, 2016 - 2:13 am PT What a gorgeous day to be resting on Denali! We didn't get out of the tent until the sun warmed our little cocoons. Pancakes fueled us for a walk to the infamous Edge of the World where we enjoyed unobstructed views of this magnificent mountain and the range that hosts us. Warm and windless was our vantage point and looking from the South Buttress to our first camp around to our current home in Genet Basin contributed to our ever evolving sense of scale. The team answered (or tried to) Denali trivia for a turn to look over the Edge down to the Northeast Fork and make a memory. Back to camp for the afternoon for more rest and an eventual sunset with a just over half full moon taking the trip from Denali over Hunter on its way to Foraker, breaking trail for tomorrow's ascent by the Sun. Wind up high may keep us here for an extra day or two, but somehow I think we'll be just fine. RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Jason,
Absolutely breathtaking! We check on your progress everyday & read the update aloud as a family. We are living vicariously through you. Happy adventures!
~Knutsons

Posted by: Knutsons on 6/14/2016 at 9:09 pm

So exciting to watch your progress!!! We are looking at Denali from Anchorage today. I see a few thumbs up and smiles. Go Jason and team!!!

Posted by: The Hoppes on 6/14/2016 at 3:13 pm