Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Fly on and Set Up Camp

Posted by: Josh Maggard, Robby Young, Pete Van Deventer | May 16, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,600'

May 16, 2015 1:09 am PT

Hi all,

While yesterday became a waiting game that ultimately left us sleeping in town for another night, this morning was sunny and blue, and immediately after breakfast, we loaded the planes and were off! The flight in was spectacular with great views of the range. After a couple hours of sorting loads, packing, and rigging, we walked out of base camp and on to the lower Kahiltna. We made great time, and now we are snugly tucked into camp after an eventful day. Time to catch some Zzzz. We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Josh Maggard, Robby Young, and team

On The Map

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Climb Big Arapiles

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon, Andy Hildebrand | May 16, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

May 16th 2:06 am PT

Good morning from Little Switzerland. We had an awesome day yesterday!!! We woke up to marginal weather and spent the morning mastering lead climbing techniques and tricks at the belay. As things stabilized, we broke again into groups and climbers took the lead and responsibility to guide us to Big Arapiles, both up and down; It was an incredible outing and Vanessa, Tyler, Kyle, John and Paul made us proud.

Our plan today may change, as we are receiving a ton of snow. We’ll check back in later and let you know.

Standing by from the Pika Glacier,
RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon, Andy Hildebrand, and team

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos ascends Big Arapiles in Little Switzerland, Alaska. Photo: Bridget Schletty RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos looks across the Pika Glacier towards the Trolls, from the summit of Big Arapiles. Photo: Bridget Schletty

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Mt. Rainier: May 16th Summit

Posted by: Casey Grom, Chase Nelson, Andrew Kiefer, Stoney Molina | May 16, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Casey Grom and the entire Four Day Summit Climb team stood on the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning! Casey reported chilly temperatures but light wind and lots of sunshine on the summit. The team is beginning their descent back to Camp Muir where they will refuel and pack up before continuing on to Paradise. We look forward to greeting the team in Ashford this afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s climbers!

An RMI team ascending the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Take Another Rest Day Due to Winds

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Billy Haas | May 15, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

May 15th 2:30 pm PT

Overnight winds here at the 11k Camp were strong, but subsided a bit by morning. We woke early and fired stoves for a much anticipated cup of coffee…followed by a breakfast of smoked salmon, cream cheese, and bagels (it’s not all about suffering up here).
Our team was ready, but the winds up above Motorcycle Hill and around Windy Corner, where we intend to place our cache, never subsided to levels that we were comfortable with.
We ended up taking another rest day here at 11k, which is always a good thing. Hopefully we’ll be able to make our cache tomorrow. We’ll keep you posted.

RMI Guide Mike Walter and the team

An RMI team's 11K Camp on Mt. McKinley, Alaska. Photo: RMI Collection

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Alaska Seminar: Leon Davis & Team Ready to Go

Posted by: Leon Davis, Lindsay Fixmer, Bridget Belliveau | May 15, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Good morning friends and family!

The Alaska Seminar team here in Talkeetna is getting things done in great style. Weather is looking better with each passing hour and everyone did a fantastic job with rigging their gear. Here it is noon and we are just about ready to fly!  So the team is gonna grab a last meal in town and our next communique will be from base camp! 

Have a lovely day everyone,
RMI Guide Leon Davis

The May 14th Alaska Seminar team poses for a photo while taking a break from packing. Photo: Leon Davis

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Mt. McKinley: Pete Van Deventer & Team Kahiltna Bound!

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 15, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Yesterday we spent the whole day on hold here in Talkeetna. Today is a new day. This morning’s skies are clear and we’re loading up to go! We are off to climb Mount McKinley!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

The May 12th McKinley Expedition boarding the plane bound for Kahiltna Base! Photo: Pete Van Deventer

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Mt. Rainier: May 15th Update

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Mike King | May 15, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Five Day Summit Climbs, led by Tyler Jones and Mike King, reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning! At 9:30 am PT, the team began their descent from the crater rim. Tyler reported no wind, sunny skies, and warm temperatures with a cloud deck around 7,000’.

Congratulations to RMI’s first summit teams of 2015!

An RMI team ascending Mount Rainier just after daybreak. Photo: JJ Justman

Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Plan for Next Climb Objective

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon, Andy Hildebrand | May 15, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

May 15th 1:30 am PT

Good evening from Pika Glacier camp. We are writing from the relative comfort of our posh tent, after a day of on and off fog, wind and snow. We’re all in great spirits and hoping for the weather to clear to focus on our next objective. Enjoy a couple pictures of today’s view from home. That’s it for today!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

The Alaska Alpine Seminar Pika Glacier Camp. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos Pika Glacier Camp and surrounding Denali National Park peaks. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Weather Day at 11K Camp

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Billy Haas | May 14, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

May 14, 2015, 6:20 pm PT

Checking in here from 11,200 ft:  Today we awoke to less than desirable weather for a potential carry.  Gusty winds and snow prompted a welcomed rest day.  The team slept in and once awake began the process of fixing up camp and repairing the cook tent.  A multiple hour breakfast of eggs, meats, and hashbrowns gave way to some socializing around camp, and on and off napping.  The team is in good spirits and hoping to begin the eventual process of moving to 14,000 camp as soon as the weather improves.

RMI Guide Billy Haas and the team

11,200' on McKinley, Kahiltna Dome in the the distance. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Pete Van Deventer & Team are Rigged & Ready to Roll

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 14, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Our team is assembled, or bags are packed, and we are ready to climb onboard the airplanes and take off! We spent today going through all of our gear, packing and repacking our bags, and sorting lunch food. With all of the details dialed in, we’re going to eat what is hopefully our last dinner in town for a few weeks, and catch some zzz’s. Tomorrow with any luck, we’ll board the planes first thing for one of the highlights of the trip: the stunning flight into Kahiltna Base Camp. We’ll be in touch!

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard, and team

The May 12th Denali Expedition at the NPS meeting. Photo: Josh Maggard The May 12th Denali team stroll through downtown Talkeetna, Alaska. Photo: Josh Maggard Pete Van Deventer and team checking gear prior to flying onto Mt. McKinley. Photo: Josh Maggard

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Previous Page More Entries

Expedition Stats

Mexico's Volcanoes
2/14 - 2/22/2015
Ixtaccihuatl - Summit / Pico de Orizaba - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/8 - 3/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,200'
Mexico's Volcanoes
3/7 - 3/15/2015
Ixtaccihuatl - 15,300' / Pico de Orizaba - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/22 - 3/27/2015
Mt. Rainier - 10,080'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
4/12 - 4/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,400'
Everest Base Camp - Island Peak
3/18 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit / Island Peak - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/18 - 4/7/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/21 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/2 - 5/12/2015
Radio Control Tower - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/9 - 5/13/2015
14,410' - 12300
Five Day Summit Climb
5/11 - 5/15/2015
14,410' - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/16/2015
14,410' - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/14 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/15 - 5/18/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit

Recent Images

  • An RMI team ascending Motorcycle Hill with 11k Camp of Mt. McKinley, AK in the background. Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI team ascending the fixed lines outside of 14k Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The May 19th McKinley team preparing for the climb in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Adam Knoff
  • The May 19th McKinley team ready to fly in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Adam Knoff
  • An RMI Team camped at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Rob Lindner
  • An RMI Alaska Seminar Team navigating the glacier.  Photo: Kel Rossiter
  • Prayer flags fly at Everest Base Camp with Pumori summit behind.  Photo: Jeff Martin
  • Camp at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • The view from Kahiltna Base Camp.  Photo: Seth Waterfall
  • The RMI Posh tent set up at 14,000 ft Camp.  Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Climbing Windy Corner on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection
  • The Summit Ridge of Radio Tower. RMI Photo Collection
  • View from Ski Hill on Mt. McKinley.  RMI Photo Collection
  • An RMI Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier. RMI Photo Collection
  • The May 17th RMI Team ascending the Emmons Shoulder at 13,000 ft en route to the summit.  Photo: Zeb Blais
  • The RMI Four Day Summit Climb Team on the summit of Mt. Rainier May 17th.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos ascends Big Arapiles in Little Switzerland, Alaska. Photo: Bridget Schletty
  • RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos looks across the Pika Glacier towards the Trolls, from the summit of Big Arapiles. Photo: Bridget Schletty
  • An RMI team ascending the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita
  • An RMI team's 11K Camp on Mt. McKinley, Alaska. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The May 14th Alaska Seminar team poses for a photo while taking a break from packing. Photo: Leon Davis
  • The May 12th McKinley Expedition boarding the plane bound for Kahiltna Base! Photo: Pete Van Deventer