Entries By elias de andres martos

Mt. Rainier: August 23rd Summit!

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren | August 23, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Mount Rainier Summit Climbs, led by RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos and Jake Beren, called in at 7:38 a.m.  The first teams began their descent from the crater rim at that time and the second teams followed at 7:53 a.m.  The guides report a little wind from the WSW but all-in-all, good weather.

Congratulations to today’s summit climbers!

Glacier travel at sunrise, Mount Rainier. Photo: RMI Collection
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Congratulations to Elizabeth and her BCM climbing partners - thrilled that you were able to summit and that you had such great weather!  Thanks to your RMI guide for keeping… read more

Posted by: Tom Williams on 8/23/2015 at 7:49 am


Mt. Rainier: August 7th Summit!

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Kel Rossiter | August 07, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos and Kel Rossiter led our Summit Climb teams to the top of Mount Rainier this morning.  Their views spanned out to Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams and other peaks in the Cascade Mountains.  Both teams began their descent after 8:15 a.m.

Congratulations Summit Climb Teams!

Glacier travel at sunrise, Mount Rainier. Photo: RMI Collection
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Congratulations on summititing Mt. rainier this am. I knew you could do it.

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Posted by: Jeanette on 8/7/2015 at 11:41 am


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climbs Teams Reach the Summit

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Win Whittaker | August 02, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Win Whittaker and Elias de Andres Martos reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  Win reported hazy skies and a light wind.  The teams are on their descent from the summit en route to Camp Muir.  Once at Camp Muir the climbers will repack their gear and continue their descent to Paradise.  Today’s climbers have spent the last several months raising money for The American Lung Association in Washington’s Climb for Clean Air.

Congratulations to the climbers for their efforts of fundraising, training and climbing!

RMI Guide Win Whittaker and the ALA climbers en route to Camp Muir on August 1.  Photo: Win Whittaker The ALA Climb For Clean Air team on the summit of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Win Whittaker
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No matter where your highpoint was this morning, congratulations on your great effort and teamwork!!!

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Posted by: Frank Yandrasits on 8/2/2015 at 8:09 am


Alpamayo Expedition: Elias and Team Return from the Mountains

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 25, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 10,000'

Greetings from Huaraz!

The team finished the expedition yesterday, arriving safe and sound to the capital of the Ancash district of Peru, but also the capital of Andean climbing. Our descent to the trail head at Cashapampa, with the help of horses, was an extraordinary experience. We took our time to enjoyed for the last time the views of the massively snow fluted peaks and turquoise lakes down valley. Right on time for a shower and a celebratory dinner, the arrival at the hotel marked the end of our climbing adventure. We’ll spend the day today relaxing in Huaraz and enjoying a Pachamanca, typical Peruvian meal cooked underground, with our local guide and outfitter’s family, before packing for tomorrow’s departure to Lima and flights back home.
Thanks to all for following and cheering for this team during our climb! We just say bye now until next year’s expedition, wishing best of luck to Geoff’s Schellens’ team, who’s currently starting the 2nd RMI Alpamayo climb this season.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

The streets of Huaraz, Peru.  Photo: Eric Frank

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Alpamayo: Elias & Team Back at Base Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 23, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,270'

We are back at the comfort of lower elevations, the meals of our cook Emilio, and the safety of the Andean meadow in which it sits. Our summit climb yesterday was incredible; mainly because of the climbing ability of our climbers, (providing the fastest and most efficient one this guide has had) but also because the weather, conditions and surroundings. We had the mountain to ourselves, which contributed too. This morning, we had to drag our feet out of Camp 2, since a whiteout engulfed us upon waking up. The weather gave us a break and without hesitation, we started our descent to BC. We know we’re not done till we dismount our horses tomorrow at the trailhead, but our sense of accomplishment makes us believe so; we have climbed, arguably and according to many, the most beautiful mountain in the world. We’re going now to rest that thought in the warmth of the first night not on the glacier in a few days, and let you know all about it tomorrow from our hotel.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

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We’re very proud of you all! Congratulations on your successful climb! Dixie, Scott and Tucker

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Posted by: Dixie on 7/25/2015 at 4:38 am

Fatima, Great to hear that you had a memorable experience and such good conditions on summit day on such an unusually beautiful mountain. That (and the 450m ice-climb) will make… read more

Posted by: Peter Williamson on 7/24/2015 at 2:57 pm


Alpamayo Expedition: Elias and Team Summit!

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 22, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 19,512'

Hi again, this is Elias it looks like the previous message got cut by the satellite reception. We are back at Camp, everything went pretty well. This team crushed it, they climbed 450 meters of really step ice on Alpamayo in less than five hours.  They killed it. We are safely back at camp. Sorry we couldn’t call from the top but if you have seen pictures of the mountain, there is only room for one person at a time so we couldn’t call from there.  This is pretty awesome.  We want to thank everybody who has been cheering for us.  We will keep you posted tomorrow from Base Camp, hopefully.  We’re going to chill tonight here at High Camp, because we had the entire mountain to ourselves. So there was no rush to leave early, we had a later start, enjoyed ourselves in the daylight. We are going to sleep here and then do the descent tomorrow. That’s all for now and thanks again for following, and we will check in tomorrow from Base Camp prior to heading out the next day.

Take care, Bye.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Ascending Alpamayo on summit day.  Photo: Eric Frank Alpamayo from High Camp at 17,880 ft.  Photo: Elias de Andres Martos

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5

Felicitaciones al equipo!!!!
Que tengan un descenso seguro y disfruten del éxito!
Gracias por todos los informes
Un abrazo fuerte
Bettina ( hermana de Wolf )

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Posted by: Bettina Riehle de Mola on 7/22/2015 at 9:47 pm

Dear Team - CONGRATULATIONS!!!! What an amazing achievement - be safe on the way down and get some rest! Hugs and BRAVO! Feli

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Posted by: felicitas funke-riehle on 7/22/2015 at 3:45 pm


Alpamayo Expedition:  Elias and Team Check in from High Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 21, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 17,880'

Hello, this is Elías and the Alpamayo team calling again from High Camp. Today, at the base of the Alpamayo Head Wall, we are taking a rest day, as we’d let you know yesterday. The weather looks really good, we are in good spirits and health, and we’re just relaxing and waiting for our summit push tonight. So tomorrow, this time, check in, and hopefully we will have a summit report from you. Otherwise, stay tuned until then, and best regards to everybody back home. Bye.

RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos

Looking up at the summit of Alpamayo from Col Camp at 17,880 ft.  Photo: Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos checks in from High Camp on Alpamayo.

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K-So nice to hear from you -the call made my day!!! So I am thinking that when you get back maybe you can tackle Campbell Hill (1550’) in Logan County—-Race… read more

Posted by: Michael on 7/21/2015 at 5:44 pm

Dear Team, have a good rest and some serious sleep hours and all the best for the summit push! Thinking of you all and sending a BIG hug, Feli

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Posted by: felicitas funke-riehle on 7/21/2015 at 5:16 pm


Alpamayo: Elias & Team Move to High Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 20, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 17,880'

Hello, this is RMI Guide Elias Andres and the Alpamayo team, along with local guide, Peter. We are currently at high camp on Alpamayo at 5,400 meters. The team crushed it. We came up here in a mere four hours overcoming some steep terrain, but it was not difficult for anybody. We are currently setting up camp. Everyone will be chill tomorrow. We are going to take advantage of the elevation to continue to acclimatize for the summit bid and let a couple of teams that arrived here ahead of us climb the mountain so we have the route to ourselves. We’ll keep you posted tomorrow. Stay tuned at this time and we will let you know how we are doing, which is presumably very, very well. Hopefully in 48 hours you will have a summit report.  That’s it for now.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Alpamayo High Camp.

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5

Hi Kara
  The mtn. looks awesome.  I know you’re having a ball.
Kristen and all enjoyed your kayak while you were hiking.
Everyone here sends their… read more

Posted by: Jean on 7/21/2015 at 7:36 am

Andres - thank you for the great radio report - best to Wolf and the team and have a chill day! Feli (Wolf’s wife)

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Posted by: felicitas funke-riehle on 7/20/2015 at 7:30 pm


Alpamayo: Elias & Team Check In from Moraine Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 19, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 16,240'

Hello from Moraine Camp! We just arrived to our cache, and are currently setting up our tents under the bluest skies so far on the trip. Spirits are high, and we presume we’ll be moving to high camp tomorrow. Everyone sends their regards and asks for the cheering to continue on!

Best,
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and crew

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Dear Team, I hope that the weather goods are smiling and that you are making steady progress - be safe from head to toe! Feli (Wolf’s wife)

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Posted by: felicitas funke-riehle on 7/20/2015 at 2:05 pm

K-nice work !!! Told you that blue skies await you !  Warm up get dry and conquer that summit:-).  Then get your butt back stateside !!! Be safe and have… read more

Posted by: Michael on 7/19/2015 at 2:04 pm


Alpamayo: Elias and Team Rest at Basecamp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 18, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,270'

Good afternoon!

Not much to report today, a relaxing rest day at BC. We’re all looking forward to the improvement in the weather reported by the RMI office, to materialize just on time for our planned move uphill tomorrow. We will be checking in, hopefully from Moraine Camp, in 24 hours.

Best regards,

RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos & the Alpamayo team.

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This is a message for Wolf and all the others of the team:
I wish you all the best, stay safe and the whole family is sending its… read more

Posted by: Eva on 7/19/2015 at 7:35 am

Rumor has it Kara is soaking wet from the cold damp weather.  I think you will get some well deserved sun on Sunday/Mondsay.  Have a great climb to Moraine Camp… read more

Posted by: Michael on 7/18/2015 at 8:04 pm


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