Entries By elias de andres martos
September 30, 2016
We received very sad news earlier today. One of the Sherpa team members was caught in an avalanche this morning and has died. The rest of the team are safe. All team members are spending the night at Camp 2 and will be descending in the morning. The accident occurred below Camp 3 as a Sherpa team was moving up. This is all the information we have at this time. We will provide updates as we get information from the team.
Our thoughts and prayers are with the Sherpas, climbers and their families.
The RMI Office Team
My heart is heavy as I read this. I can not even begin to imagine how everyone is dealing with this tragedy. Take care and be safe.
Posted by: Betty (Art's sister) on 10/1/2016 at 5:12 am
Incredibly sad and deepest condolences…
Be safe everyone. Biggest kiss to Galina. Obnimau krepkoooo!
Posted by: Zhanar on 10/1/2016 at 3:53 am
September 29, 2016
And the heavy winds kept us bounded at Camp 1 today, folks. We woke up to clear skies that soon turned cloudy, but the if we had some hopes to move up early on, the everlasting winds killed it for today. We did what what we had to, and was rest, re-hydrate, eat, and fortify the wall we made around camp. Our forecast gives us hopes to move to Camp 2 tomorrow, so we’re ultra motivated for that. In the meantime, we know that the extra night here will be beneficial for overcoming the thin air that awaits above. We’re armed with plenty of food and desire to continue this fight, so stay toned for more. Everyone is healthy and eager to climb!
RMI Guide Elías de Martos and team.
Hey Gary, Looks amazing. Hope you are enjoying the view and there is plenty of coffee. Good luck and hope to see picture from the summit.
Posted by: Jeff Resnick on 9/30/2016 at 7:40 am
Building a wall certainly sounds interesting. No doubt many or most of you are experts at that having made snow forts as kids! (Or adults). Good luck everyone.
Posted by: Betty (Art's sister) on 9/30/2016 at 5:32 am
September 28, 2016
Good evening from Camp 1 on Shishapangma. Good day of climbing we had to here today, without a doubt, the most efficient given the stage of the climb in which we are. We’re a little concerned about the weather though, as a non-forecasted storm evolved us as we approached the last few hundred meters to camp. With our Sherpa team ahead at Camp 2, we only hope for better weather to continue our upward progress, and wish for not too much new snow. Everyone did a terrific job today, and all rest and sleep comfortably in their tent. Stoves are being shut off as we speak with water melted for the morning. Stay tuned for tomorrow’s outcome!!!
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team.
Colin - I’m sure you don’t need any extra motivation, but I thought I might need some when I did my sailing trip. Here is something I had posted on the inside of the boat:
“We choose to go to the moon in this decade and do the other things, not because they are easy, but because they are hard.” John F. Kennedy
Good luck. Speak soon.
PS - things are going along smoothly in Vancouver
Posted by: Bruce on 9/29/2016 at 2:15 am
Еще чуток, Галина!
Горячий привет и все самые самые позитивные мысли и пожеланию шлю тебе на гору! Ты самая умная, самая лучшая. УМНИЦА!
Posted by: Zhanar on 9/28/2016 at 7:59 pm
September 27, 2016
Namaste from Depot Camp (ABC) at 6,000m!!!
2,000 to go… we’re on the move! Day 1 of summit push brought us on the late afternoon to a frigid moraine camp which prompted the funny scene of everyone gathering for dinner in down suits over the rocky platforms of our tents… like an army of teletubbies. Much more talented, though, we didn’t let the cold get to us and ventured early to the comfort of our tents, knowing that our move to Camp 1 tomorrow will be a bit more demanding than our hike today, basically a strategic move to shorten the distance between Base Camp and Camp 1 (by the way, these guys are ditching 1.20h from what it was taking on our first trip!) Despite having a strong team of Sherpa support, we decided to endure a one night of alpine style camping…. with our bags at Camp 1, we chose to all sleep in our down suits to avoid carrying our base camp bag, and have lighter move.
At the moment, we’re (at the guides’ tent) listening to Liam Knoff’s playlist, waiting for the early Tibetan night of the fall, to go into full sleepy time. Stay tuned for our progress uphill tomorrow.
RMI Guides Elías, Adam, Robby and the RMI Shishapangma team!!!
Colin, feel excited for you. Nice photo looks like you guys in Mars or the moon with snow
Posted by: Janet on 9/28/2016 at 1:02 am
Posted by: Carlos de Andres on 9/27/2016 at 11:38 pm
September 26, 2016
On to the roofs of the world!!!! This morning we set our sights to the summit of Shishapangma. Spent the morning packing bags and double checking our equipment. #allthewayup. After 26 days of preparation, we’re ready to launch our summit attempt. Excited to reach new heights and goals. Weather forecast says we’re set for the 1st. Ramen will toughen us up! We feel strong with the force, and confident on the climb to come. We thank you all for the blog comments, which strengthen our spirits.
*This blog was written around the breakfast table, one sentence per member. May the force be with us!!!!
The RMI Shishapangma team
Godspeed Elias and crew, be safe and have an amazing time. SWEET!
Posted by: Ben Pucci on 9/27/2016 at 11:55 am
Totally stoked for the team! Can’t wait to read about your progress! Climb safe and stay strong!
Posted by: Mark Leininger on 9/27/2016 at 10:01 am
September 25, 2016
We’ve certainly settled back in to life at our 18,500’ Base Camp with a second consecutive rest day in the books; all in preparation for our upcoming summit push. Naps were taken. Dining tent discussion came and went throughout the day. The Tootsie Roll jar certainly took a hit. And the sun poked through off and on, giving us our first warming by the sun in a few days. With the sun, a few team members took advantage of some creature comforts with our Base Camp shower setup. (Yes you read that right!) Tomorrow we’ll indulge in much of the same as we wait for our weather window to begin our climb to the summit. Until then, thanks for following along, and thank you for all your blog responses and words of encouragement!
As I wait for the presidential debate to begin, I find myself kind of envying you, 18,500 feet up there, breathing like an emphysema patient and mostly cut off from the stupidity of the outside world. Despite my fear of heights, I may have to consider spending the next election in the Himalayas. 1/2 to 1/3 of the oxygen at sea level in exchange for a month with no Drumpf, Hillary, Kardashians or other oxygen thieves? I’d take that deal right about now.
Seriously, though, good luck on the summit push. Remember to wear your crampons on the midnight wee trip at the higher camps, observe your turnaround time and maybe by the time you get home, I’ll have taught Mom and Dad how to pronounce the name of the mountain you climbed. I tried it the other night with Dad after the anniversary party. Big mistake.
See you soon,
Posted by: Jayme on 9/26/2016 at 5:34 pm
Always in my thoughts and prayers. Climb strong.
Posted by: Jane Knoff on 9/26/2016 at 12:59 pm
September 24, 2016
A well earned day of rest. We have come to the point now in this expedition where things are now earned instead of deserved. Granted we all worked hard on our last rotation. A storm came in and bullied us into coming down a day early. The wind beat us like a naughty pet and kept camp two, our primary objective out of reach. Despite the storm, everyone did great handling themselves and proved they are ready for the final push. Now we must really focus on staying positive and healthy. Our bodies are wearing down even here at Base Camp. The mountain, letting us touch and feel a little bit is hiding no secrets and will demand our strongest effort yet to gain her summit slopes even though our physical selves aren’t as tip top as they were two weeks ago.
So now we earn it. Nothing will come easy. From here until the end we must become more adept and graceful at dealing with the hardships. The want to come home and hug our loved ones and eat fresh food and enjoy a warm shower is growing stronger everyday. All of us must embrace the spirit of climbing this mountain and believe that working hard, suffering well and giving everything we have both physically and emotionally will earn us a chance to stand on top.
These next few rest days will all blend together. Sleep, eat, drink, sleep, cards, read and so on. I personally spiced things up today when I crawled into the Gamov bag just to see what it was like and 15 minutes later had a claustrophobic panic attack and had to be let out before hyperventilating. This provided a touch of humor but all in all we now must rest and wait. We all understand what these next two weeks will bring. We came here to climb Shishapangma and we will give her our finest effort. Even during days of rest.
More on that tomorrow.
RMI Adam Knoff
I hope you are having a nice time resting at base camp for a few days…but really, isn’t every day a rest day for you? It must be nice always being carried up the mountains! You better be keeping everyone in good spirits, but if you need some help, tell Mark that Jack got a B on his chemistry test yahoo!! He must really be scared of what is going to happen when you get home. Remind Mark to take some good pictures, the frames in the living room need an update : )
Be safe and make good choices!
Posted by: Elizabeth Wilkins on 9/25/2016 at 6:22 pm
Nice work up there boys. Stay safe
Posted by: Geoff on 9/25/2016 at 5:16 pm
September 23, 2016
And… the winds brought us back to Shishapangma Base Camp. We had an incredibly rough night at Camp 1. The storm that unleashed upon finishing our well accomplished tasks above Camp 1 the previous day, was so fierce, that continued this morning with even more determination to make us cut our rotation one day short. After fighting the winds securing our camp, and managing to make breakfast, it was clear we weren’t going to get a break. We descended towards Base Camp fully bundled in our warm equipment, knowing though that our well spent time up there is going to pay dividends soon. Now we go to enjoy some more rest in anticipation of our next move. Spirits are high and we look forward to good weather soon!
Best regards from Base Camp,
Sorry we missed your call to us this morning with the happy anniversary wishes, but we really appreciated your message and expression of affection. The diner and after party last night was a smash success (or so I’m told). As you might have expected, in keeping with my careful allocation of excess consumption occasions, I duly allocated last night’s affair as my one such occasion for 2016. And as I’d expected, today was a total loss, dedicated exclusively to aspirin, antacids, rehydration and horizontal recovery! Hopefully your retreat to Base camp was uneventful and the rest there today fulfilling and complete - and even better than mine!. Wishing you and the team nothing but fair skies and calm air from here on!
Love from us both.
Posted by: Rick Deerwester on 9/24/2016 at 4:32 pm
Go go go! Enjoy and good luck :)
Posted by: Carlos on 9/24/2016 at 2:38 pm
September 22, 2016
Good evening from Camp 1. Gnarly day we had today folks, as we’re currently waiting out a nasty wind storm. The morning went well, with our Sherpa team plus guides Robby and Elías making it to Camp 2, in the vicinity of 7,000m, breaking trail with more than a one foot of soft snow. Meanwhile the climbing team, under the directions of guide Knoff, made an acclimating stroll around Camp 1. Everyone is doing well, and the effects of the altitude at this elevation are barely noticeable now. We’ll keep you posted on our upcoming plan.
Time to go rest now!
RMI Guide Elías de Martos and team.
Sounds like a great day of progress! I can only imagine what the wind is like up at that altitude. Stay safe and best of luck tomorrow!
Posted by: Trish on 9/23/2016 at 6:03 am
Glad all is going well. Love seeing photos!
Posted by: Betty (Art's sister) on 9/23/2016 at 5:29 am
September 21, 2016
Good evening from the entire team at Camp 1!
We woke up to a dust of new snow and clouds this morning at Depot Camp (ABC). Soon after breakfast, we could tell the cloud layer was thin, the winds non existent, and the precipitation receding. Executing our plan of moving upwards was unquestionable. Covering known ground now to Camp 1 posed less of a challenge than the first time last week, and the team moved efficiently uphill. We reached our now well established camp shortly after 2 pm, followed by our Sherpa team, who was coming directly from Base Camp. We’re all now in our tents, with full bellies, tired legs and great spirits. Tomorrow we’ll start setting eyes towards Camp 2, we’ll keep you posted, as we’ll be dependent on the evolution of the snow that is starting to come down, as the sun set over the ridge.
Good night everyone!
RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos, Adam Knoff & Robby Young
You guys look like you all forgot your razors :). Seriously, it sounds as though all of you are doing really well. Stay strong!
Posted by: Rick Deerwester on 9/22/2016 at 6:08 am
Cheering to Galina, team and all the support crew!
You guys are awesome! GO FORWARD, STAY SAFE!
Lots of hugs, Galina.
Posted by: Zhanar on 9/21/2016 at 8:05 pm