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Entries By elias de andres martos


Artesonraju: Elias & Team Travel From Lima to Huaraz

Greetings from Huaraz!

Do you like movies? Recognize the Paramount Pictures’ logo? Well… that mountain exists, and we’re off to climb it!!!
After a day of international traveling, and a night in Peru’s capital, Lima, we drove north through the Pacific coastal desert, then through a section of Peruvian farmland where chili peppers are getting dried in the sun and finally, over the 14,000-foot pass of Conococha to arrive in Huaraz, the gateway of the “Callejon de Huaylas” Valley. This is where the Cordillera Blanca Range extends for nearly 100 miles. We checked in to our hotel, and a clear evening provided a great view of the mountains to the Northeast form the terraces of our rooms in the Hotel Andino, an incredible facility, where after four years, we’re part of the family now.

We’re off to bed, excited for our acclimatization hike tomorrow. Stay tuned as we start our expedition.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team

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Mt. Rainier: June 22nd Summit Climb Update

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Elias de Andres Martos climbed to 12,700’ this morning, but were forced to turn due to icy and firm route conditions. The team has started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir.

Congratulations to today’s team!

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias Recaps their time in Little Switzerland

Our third AMS-Alpine Expedition has come to an end. What an incredible time we had! The rugged terrain of Little Switzerland didn’t disappoint at all… While the weather has been the main challenge, conditions on the routes were stellar. Our team of four climbers were super talented and motivated, and training days in the vicinity of camp waiting for weather to clear, turned to be the most productive lessons on the terrain; from rock rescue scenarios, to anchor transitions, all paid back with very efficient climbs up iconic formations like “The Lost Marsupial” or “The Troll”, which astonished glacier landing tourists from down below as their K2 Aviation plane landed on the Kahiltna Glacier.
Worth mentioned was our menu. If most of us are familiar with the concept of car camping… imagine how plane camping can be! With a powerless fridge like the glacier, steaks or fresh vegetables are unquestionable components of our diet in here. Yes, the alpine climbing in our seminar is at its best; light packs, 1 day missions from camp, and technical terrain. But when we’re at camp, fun times, quality rest and better food is guaranteed.
Now we’re headed to the airport, already thinking of next year’s edition. Thanks for following and I hope you will consider joining us next season!

RMI Guide Elías de Andrés Martos

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Climb The Middle Troll

Good morning from little Swiss,

We came to an end, but not without reward…Yesterday we had, after a patient wait for blue skies, the most amazing of the climbing days we could hope for. the Middle Troll, reigning over the Pika, towered for hours above us, as its splitter granite cracks discerned a feasible access to its airy summit. The team climbed seamlessly, and all the training of the last week payed for an incredibly well oiled “uphilling” engine. We climbed into the evening, as the morning and early afternoon were still foggy; climbing into the evening light of Alaska’s summer was very special.

We’re now cooking our breakfast and soon we’ll fly back to civilization… wait to see our pictures! 

RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos & Team

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Waiting on Weather

Good morning from the Pika Glacier. The weather and visibility yesterday were not exactly what we hoped for. But we made the most out of our day with more valuable training near camp; crevasse and rock rescue systems took the bigger part of the day, finishing with a few laps of vertical ice climbing out of a big crack, Alaska size. Dinner didn’t disappoint and made up for the lack of the climb we hoped to do, and a veggie-cheese omelette and steak fajitas were on the menu.
This morning we’re in a holding pattern as well, as a super dense fog is reducing our visibility to 30ft.

Stay tuned for more,
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team.

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Alaska Seminar: Elias and Team Check in from the Pika Glacier

Hello from the Pika Glacier! We had a terrific day on the “munchkin” a rock formation 20 minutes west of our camp, where we spent the day training. This team is really talented and motivated to learn, and with the best classroom as our domain, we had a very productive day; short roping, rock anchors, belay escapes, transitions… We lost the concept of time getting techie with our ropes and gear, and we realized we had to come back to camp when our stomachs told us dinner time was due. We are hoping for good weather tomorrow to climb another objective. Best regards from Alaska, Elias, Chase and team. 

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias and Team Take Shelter from the Rain

June 10, 2017

Good evening from Alaska. It shouldn’t be raining on the glaciers of this Range. But it is. We’ve been confined today to our tents and kitchen tarp to stay dry, as a wet cloud and on and off rain took over most of the day. No climbing or outside training we could do, but for the hour or so that we got a break, we moved camp, as our tent platforms became 1 foot tall pedestals due to the high temps. We’re all looking forward to an improvement on the forecast, and continue to climb on this sanctuary of alpine dreams that Little Swiss is!

Elias, Chase and team.

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Climb the Lost Marsupial Route

June 10, 2017 12:02 am PST

Good eve from camp! We just got back from a stellar day on The Throne, one of the dominant peaks around Little Swiss. We ventured up the “Lost Marsupial” Route, and these folks climbed it (up and down) in a record time for this guide’s third year coming here! A bit of rain threatened us and we considered bailing, but soon it ceased and we finished our objective. The cloudy skies provided an incredible light tone that made our pictures sure look surreal. Upon arrival to camp, steak dinner was prepared, and a good night’s sleep awaits.

Stay tuned for more,
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Fly into the Alaska Mountains

Good evening from the Pika Glacier! We flew in yesterday on schedule, and continued with a busy afternoon of camp building for what’s going to be home for the next week. We woke to warm temperatures that made the forecasted precipitation fall in the shape of rain, which kept us tent grounded for the morning. A beautiful afternoon provided a good review of skills, and the motivation is high for our first venture into the nearby formations tomorrow.
Stay tuned for more!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Have fun Elias and Chase!

Posted by: Meredith on 6/8/2017 at 11:05 pm


Mt. Rainier: June 4th Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Elías de Andrés Martos and Solveig Waterfall topped out on Mt. Rainier early this morning with winds around 50-60 mph. As of 7:18AM, they were at 13,600’ on their descent. It was a very cold, windy climb for them.

Congratulations to today’s team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrats to Mike G. and the rest of the team on the climb!

Posted by: Jack on 6/4/2017 at 4:34 pm

Congrats guys great achievement looking forward to y’all getting back home.

Dad

Posted by: Jay Murray on 6/4/2017 at 12:31 pm

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