Entries By elias de andres martos

Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Fly to the Pika Glacier

Posted by: Andy Hildebrand, Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon | May 11, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

May 10, 2015, 9:28 pm PT

We woke today in Talkeetna to beautiful weather and were able to fly on to the Pika Glacier before noon. We spent the day building the camp that we’ll be calling home for the next week, and also had time for some avalanche education and training. For now, we are in and out of light clouds and snow, but things are relatively calm, temperatures are mild and all of us are excited to be in Little Switzerland after a weather day in Talkeetna. Fingers crossed for blue skies in the coming days!

RMI Guides Sean Collon, Elias de Andres Martos and Andy Hildebrand

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team - Day 1 Training in Talkeetna

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon, Andy Hildebrand | May 09, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Greetings from Talkeetna, Alaska!

We are wrapping up our first day of the Alpine Skills Seminar. Everybody arrived on schedule to Anchorage yesterday, and a rainy drive took us to the gateway of the Alaska Range. As planned, we spent the morning getting ready with the pertinent logistics prior to loading the bush plane equipped with skies to take us to the glacier. As our appetite climbed for what we hoped to be the last served meal of the week, the thick clouds brought the rain (snow in the range) that would keep us grounded.

We took advantage of the delay, and practiced some skills at the K2 Hangar. We got familiar with our tents, reviewed knots and hitches and mastered crevasse self extrication to make the most of a wet afternoon. Our hopes are to fly tomorrow morning straight onto the Pika Glacier. We┬┤ll keep you posted!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

The Alaska Alpine Mountaineering Seminar looking over their tents. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos The AMS-Alpine team practice some knot tying in Talkeetna. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos The Alaska Alpine Mountaineering Seminar training at the K2 Hangar. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos

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Mt. Rainier: Winter Seminar Reaches 12,300’

Posted by: Brent Okita, Seth Waterfall, Elias de Andres Martos, Ben Liken | April 16, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,300'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter reached 12,300 feet on Mt. Rainier before being dead-ended by a crevasse. Despite the crevasse, the team has been enjoying excellent weather on the upper mountain. The team will descend back to Camp Muir for the night where they will continue their skills training.

The Winter Seminar team enjoys the sunrise on the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita Sunrise on Mt. Rainier with Little Tahoma. Photo: Brent Okita The Winter Seminar Team taking a rest break on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita
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Mt. Rainier: Winter Seminar Enjoying Post Storm Sun

Posted by: Brent Okita, Seth Waterfall, Elias de Andres Martos, Ben Liken | April 15, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 6,200'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Seth Waterfall spent yesterday training on the lower slopes of Mt. Rainier. The team experienced stormy conditions with 5 - 6 inches of new snow overnight and some mild wind.

Today, the team is breaking camp and making their way uphill towards Camp Muir where they will continue their technical training. While breaking camp, the team enjoyed bluebird skies and beautiful mountain views.

The view of Mt. Rainier after the storm earlier this week. Photo: Brent Okita
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Mexico’s Volcanoes: Trip Ends In Mexico

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, JJ Justman | October 26, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mexico

Hello RMI Blog Followers!! This is our last blog from Mexico and I am going to be a writer with no words. Instead…take a look at our summit video of Orizaba. Our team were absolute rock stars!!!

RMI Guide JJ Justman

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Mexico Volcanoes:  Team Summits Orizaba!

Posted by: JJ Justman, Elias de Andres Martos | October 25, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mexico
Elevation: 18,701'

Hello everyone on the RMI Blog. I hope you’re paying attention. We have a great news to report. Team Mexico is on the Orizaba summit right now. We had just a beautiful day climbing. It took us just under eight hours to get up here. Sun is all out. Clouds below. We’ve got a beautiful view.  We actually can see Popo, La Malinche, as well as Ixta. We of course climbed La Malinche and Ixta, so we have just beautiful views of those mountains we were on just a couple of days ago. And now we capped it off, and it couldn’t have been better, on a beautiful day on Orizaba, the third highest peak in North America. Everyone says hello to friends and family. They are all excited, all happy, gaining some strength for the way down. It was a tough climb but they all did really well. This is Elias and JJ here with Team Mexico. We’ll check in with you when we get down to Senor Reyes’ tomorrow.

RMI Guide JJ Justman

The shadow cast by Pico de Orizaba at sunrise. Photo: RMI Collection Climbers shadows overlooking the fields far below from near the summit of Orizaba. Photo: RMI Collection


RMI Guide JJ Justman calls from the Orizaba summit.

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Mexico Volcanoes: Team is Ready for Summit Bid on Orizaba

Posted by: JJ Justman, Elias de Andres Martos | October 24, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mexico
Elevation: 14,000'

Hello everyone,

This is Team Mexico calling in from the hut at Orizaba. We had a great day yesterday in Puebla, a day of rest and relaxation. We’ve all recovered and recuperated after our big day on Ixta. But we’re here now setting up tents. There is a hut here, as I mentioned, but it’s a little nicer to stay outside. We’ve got some great Mountain Hardware tents that we’re setting up right now for the team. The weather was beautiful coming in, we were able to see Orizaba all day long. But, now we’re actually in a cloud but it’s one of those happy clouds that surrounded the mountain, real calm winds really non existent winds right now, and we’re having some good high hopes for tomorrow. Our plan is to wake up around midnight, and start climbing right around 1:30 - 2 o’clock in the morning, and if all goes well will be getting to the top of Orizaba right around 9 or 10 o’clock in the morning, so thanks for following along. Stay tuned, because hopefully tomorrow will have some great news for you.

Take care everyone, adios from Mexico.

RMI Guide JJ Justman, Elias deAndres Martos & Team

The View of Orizaba. RMI Photo Collection


JJ Justman and Team Calling in from High Camp on Orizaba

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Mexico Volcanoes: JJ’s Summit Day Video

Posted by: JJ Justman, Elias de Andres Martos | October 23, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mexico

RMI Guide JJ Justman created a video of the team’s Ixta summit day.  Please see link below.

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Mexico Volcanoes: SUMMIT IXTA!

Posted by: JJ Justman, Elias de Andres Martos | October 22, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mexico
Elevation: 17,340'

Hey everyone, this is Team Mexico, and believe it or not! Well, you should believe because I tell what this team is you rocking and rollin’! Hey team on the summit of Ixta what do you say? “Whaoo!” Yeah, I tell you what, that says it all. The team did just a fantastic job. We are on top of Ixta 17,300+ feet! It’s a beautiful day, the sun us shining, there are some low lying clouds out in the distance. You can see Orizaba which is our next objective, but the team had a good a good day to get here on top, they did a great job. We are doing a little hydrating, and taking some hero shots on the summit by the crosses here on top, and that is about it! So, Elias, myself and Ulises, our guide here in Mexico all say hello to everyone back home. Hey gang, just give a big shout out to anyone and everyone you want to say hi to back home. (Shouts & Cheers from team)

RMI Guide JJ Justman

Looking down the summit ridge of Ixta. Photo: RMI Collection


JJ and Team checking in from the Summit of Ixta

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Mexico’s Volcanoes: Team Prepares for Summit Bid

Posted by: JJ Justman, Elias de Andres Martos | October 21, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mexico
Elevation: 15,400'

Hey everyone, this is Team Mexico calling in from high camp on Ixta. We are at 15,000 plus feet, about 15,400’, so we have oh about a couple more thousand to go. The team here is doing really, really well. We’re kinda finishing putting up the tents and guiding out the guidelines. And we’re gonna start in on some hot drinks and some dinner for this evening. The weather was beautiful this morning as we climbed up here to high camp with heavy packs. Right now we’re in a little bit of a cloud but there’s light winds and just a little bit of precipitation. We are thinking it’s gonna be one heck of a day. I don’t wanna jinx us so my fingers are crossed and hopefully your fingers are crossed too for us. Because if all goes well we’ll be waking up early in the morning and heading on out to the summit of Ixta at 17,300 plus feet. Again, everyone’s doing really, really well and having a lot of fun. Hopefully we’ll some great news, one way or another will have some great news for you, but hopefully will be giving you a call on the summit of Ixta tomorrow. Thanks for following along and look forward to another call from us tomorrow.

RMI Guide JJ Justman


On The Map

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