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Entries By pete van deventer

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Waiting for Break

May 29, 2017
There isn’t a whole lot new to report today. The winds started to dissipate late last night into this morning. There were still some gusty bursts that swirled snow into the air, enveloping those unlucky enough to be caught out in them. But as the morning progressed, the air calmed down, and the sun started to break though. Our brief respite of sunshine was short lived, as a 20,000’ wall of cloud crept slowly towards us, finally enveloping us and triggering peaceful snowfall. It has snowed lightly for much of the day, but the wind seems to have relented for now, and the forecast seems to show our window appearing in the next couple of days. We’ll be excited when it does!

RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Jenny and team

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Wait out the Weather

May 28, 2017
Though the moisture and winds we’ve been sitting through were forecasted to dissipate today, Denali had other plans. We haven’t seen much all day due to blowing snow and gusty winds. For the brief period that we went over to the ranger tent for a visit,  the max gusts hit 42 mph. We made the best of it by inviting Mike’s team over for breakfast burritos. Tent fever spurred a lively and long lived game of “heads up.” The weather this evening explained our current situation: a low pressure center moving to the NW of the mountain, and frontal passage over the mountain. Things should settle out once the front passes, and once Denali gives the OK, we’re ready to take advantage. Until then, we’ll listen to the wind blow.

RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Jenny and Team

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Hello, thank you very much for regular updates!

We all hope for weather change in nearest future- we wish you a lot of sunshine with no snow and no wind.
Your creativity with meals and entertainment in such difficult conditions is amazing!

Jan- we are keeping you and the whole team (actually both teams) in our thoughts.

Stay safe and strong! Good luck!

Posted by: Ewa Grajkowska on 5/29/2017 at 6:02 pm

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer &Team Create a Weather Day Rhyme

Hello everyone!

Today we rose early, before the sun.
It was darn cold out,  but we still woke everyone.
We ate blueberry pancakes with maple sauce, Man they were delicious and they were the boss!
We were hoping for good weather, to carry to 17.
But the mountain above us remained unseen.
We chatted with our neighbors and told some jokes, Man those guys are funny blokes!
Tomorrow we’ll see what the weather brings. 
Hopefully that old sunshine comes out and sings!

RMI Guide Jenny and The camp 14 Hiphopapotomus

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The extent some will go to to have such a breakfast -amazing. Frostbite not nice - hope those Koreans not too serious. We also find your waiting game frustrating - maybe tomorrow lots of sunshine, no snow or wind. Current camp is getting crowded - good to share experiences with other teams.Always look forward to your next report. - take care and safe climbing.P andV.

Posted by: Phil and Vonne Calvert on 5/27/2017 at 6:16 pm

Go Rachel and Mark!! We’re cheering you on from balmy Houston, Texas! Thanks for the updates - makes for nice breaks from chasing the tots. You two are amazing!

Posted by: Kate Patrick on 5/27/2017 at 6:08 pm

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Wait out the Weather

May 25, 2017

We had the sun this morning, but a large cloud cap over the summit convinced us to wait another day to carry. It was a great day to let the tents bake, dry wet items, and people watch around camp. We capped it with a dinner of quinoa, lentils, kale, and squash in a red wine, bouillon, and Dijon reduction. It was a nice to have some fresher tasting food after 12 days on the mountain. Hopefully we wake to clear skies tomorrow and get our cache on above!

RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Jenny and team

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Hi Raghu..

Mauna is doing good :) we all hoping that weather turns in your favor.. so that you guys can keep going…

Lots of love from home in Omaha :)

Posted by: Lakshmi on 5/26/2017 at 11:52 am

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Take a Weather Day

May 24, 2017

Well, the Denali storm has arrived (we are calling it the Horiskey storm). We woke to snow this morning, and as the day had progressed, the winds have strengthened. Lots of snow is moving around camp, and being out of a tent is really unpleasant. So we’ve stayed in the tents. Our cook tent is nice and tight, and our individual tents were occupied with napping, music, and reading. The storm is supposed to peak tomorrow, so probably more of the same in store. Our walls are strong, our sleeping bags warm, and our bellies full, so all in all, life is good.

RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Jenny and team

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Enjoy First Full Rest Day

May 23, 2017

We took our first full rest day at 14. The winds were moving snow up high, but it was a pretty glorious day here in Genet Basin. We spent the day improving our walls for winds that are forecasted to huff and puff, and also practiced for our eventual trip up the fixed lines. Mike Walter’s team challenged us to a jeopardy game this evening, and we’re happy to report that we took the prize, with a score of 200 to 0 (though both teams spent a long time in the negative area). We’ll see what tomorrow brings.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Jenny Konway and team

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Looks like you and the team are doing well, hope you had a good rest day. Seriously though stop being lazy and get to the top of the mountain! Miss seeing you, stay safe, and don’t worry the sky isn’t falling around here without you.



Posted by: TJ Burns on 5/24/2017 at 7:38 pm

Such an amazing experience for you all. I am a friend of Joel Broder’s friend, Susie Okun. She was talking about your hike today and hooked me up with your blog. The pictures are beautiful. You must be having an incredible time!  Enjoy and be safe. XO

Posted by: Jackie Mossman on 5/24/2017 at 2:59 pm

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Sitting Comfortably at 14,000’ Camp

Yesterday’s hard day of work left everyone tired, and nearly everyone slept really hard last night. We woke up late, lingered over a breakfast of pancakes, and then set to work improving our camp. We put up some big walls to keep out the wind, and built a nice covered toilet to keep things comfortable. With the project finished, we ate a quick lunch, then strolled downhill to retrieve our cache. We’re in really good shape now, with a well fortified camp and all of our belongings here with us. Now, we wait for our opportunity.

We’ll be in touch,

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Jenny Konway, and team

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Greetings from South Carolina.  You can do this…. Think of some place warm.  No seriously proud of you and glad your getting the chance to have this great experience.  Happy hiking. And to quote the Hunger Games “May the odds be ever in your favor”

Posted by: Crystal's mom :) on 5/24/2017 at 7:47 pm


The next days will be extreme in every way but I know you will get to the top of that hill. May the force be with you!


Posted by: Edward Foss on 5/24/2017 at 6:10 pm

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

May 21, 2017

We had another pretty perfect day for climbing in Alaska, and we made full use of it to get up to 14,000’ and dig in a new camp. It was pleasantly warm and light clouds kept it from totally frying us. After maneuvering around some initial traffic on Squirrel Hill, we were able to hit cruise control and roll past our cache from two days ago. Once at 14,000’ Camp came the arduous task of digging new tent platforms and a kitchen. Our task tomorrow is to retrieve our cache and build some really, really big walls. It sounds like we’ve got a stronger weather system headed our way this week, so we’ll prep to wait it out.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jenny Konway, Jess Matthews and team

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Wow, Most amazing journey ever!! Good luck for the last but….. Love to the Calvert’s.  Hendrik and Natasha.

Posted by: Hendrik Muller on 5/22/2017 at 8:32 pm

Glad to hear all is well. I worry so much about you guys. Stay safe. See you soon.

      All my love mom

Posted by: Melinda on 5/22/2017 at 12:48 pm

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Rest at 11,000’ Camp

May 20, 2017

The 11,000’ Camp Diner opened for business late this morning, though still before the sun warmed its patrons’ bones. The menu had one question: with or without. Bagels and cream cheese with or without bacon. It turned into a beautiful day, and we got some National Geographic worthy photos of Mt. Foraker and the Kahiltna stretching out below us. Lots of naps, reading, movies, and some time catching up with our good friends and RMI Guides Robby and Lucas from Mike W’s team rounded out the day. Tomorrow, back to the grindstone, as we move up to 14,000’ and dig in. Everyone is looking forward to the good living of 14 Camp.

Until tomorrow,

RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Jenny and team

On The Map

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Keep up the hard work Jordan! Pinnacle is excited for your journey, big climb ahead, we know you can do it! Should’ve taken the dogs ;)

Posted by: Chris Streno on 5/22/2017 at 6:13 am

Great to have a rest day- hope you able to keep warm and get some reserve sleep in the tank. How thoughtful of the climbers to rise early and deliver breaky in bed to the guides - tales from the dreamtime ! Hope the weather holds for the hard slog ahead -safe climbing to you all - with kind thoughts P and V.

Posted by: Philip and Vonne Calvert on 5/21/2017 at 10:02 pm

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Cache Supplies on Upper Mountain

We saw the sun on day one and haven’t really seen it since. The trend of southern flow pushing moisture our way continues, and it snowed off and on all day. While climbing on bright, bluebird days is nice, it really doesn’t get much better than conditions today. While we couldn’t see a lot, there was very little wind on a piece of the mountain that is known for wind, the clouds and snow kept the temps pleasantly cool, and the fresh snow has set up creating great cramponing conditions. We cruised out of camp a bit after the main rush, which kept us out of traffic all day. A few smooth stretches later, we rounded Windy Corner and reached our cache site. All told, the day was really smooth and pleasant, and we’re feeling really good about getting a big chunk of weight uphill. On the docket for tomorrow is done hard chilling time, nap competitions, and general self care before we look to move to 14.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jenny Konway, Jess Matthews and Team

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The daily blog and pictures are FABULOUS!
Sending Joel and the team some warm Arizona sunshine.

Posted by: Susie Okun on 5/20/2017 at 1:56 pm

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