Entries By pete van deventer

Mt. Rainier: July 25th Update

Posted by: Brent Okita, Pete Van Deventer | July 25, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by Brent Okita and Peter Van Deventer did not reach the summit this morning.  The teams left Camp Muir at about 1:00 am in full hard shell layers, but it was not match for the weather. The team made the decision to turn at Ingraham Flats. They will be departing Camp Muir at around 8:30 this morning and be back in Ashford in the early afternoon. 

Congratulations to today’s teams!


Mt. Rainier: July 12th Summit!

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Sid Pattison | July 12, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Sid Pattison and the Moondance Adventures Team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning.  The team was walking off the Crater Rim at 8:35 am. Pete & Sid reported light winds and light snow as they moved through the cloud cap at the top of the mountain.

Congratulations to today’s team!


Mountaineering Training | My Go-To Workout

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer | July 07, 2015
Categories: *Mountaineering Fitness & Training

There is no way around it: there are some days where fitting my planned workout into my schedule is impossible.  On the days when chores and errands catch up with me and I don’t have much time to do a workout, I have a go-to workout that I know I can do in 45-50 minutes.  On a day when life feels too busy and I’m tempted to blow my workout off, having a quick workout ready helps me to stay motivated and get out the door.

My workout involves a short, 10 minute running warm-up, 15 minutes of short intervals, a 5-10 minute cool-down, and a short series of core exercises.  Depending on what phase of training I am in and what my goals are, I may alter the pace, number, or duration of my intervals.  During my aerobic building phase, I might run at a tempo that is slightly slower than my 5k race pace for 2 minutes, recover at a light jog for 1 minute, and repeat 4 more times.  This bump in pace helps to mix up my tempo and keeps my legs feeling a bit quicker, but the effort isn’t so hard that I’m building up large amounts of lactic acid.  Later in the season during an intensity phase, I might push the pace of those intervals right to my threshold, or do shorter 1 minute, all out efforts, with a full minute of recovery in between.  This helps to build my anaerobic threshold, and develop my ability to recover as well.  The warm up and cool down are really important for preventing injuries, and I try to resist the temptation to skip or cut short either. 

The light core session to close doesn’t necessarily build a lot more strength, like a dedicated strength session would be designed to do, but it gives me maintenance.  I mix up the exercises, but an example workout might be:

  • 3 sets of 50 crunches
  •  
  • 3 sets of 20 pushups
  •  
  • and 3 sets of 20 dips


I always end this workout with the same series, something that we used to call a “super set” on the college ski team. It consists of:

  • 100 crunches (feet on the ground, curling my torso towards my knees, but not a full sit-up)
  •  
  • 50 sit-ups to the side (alternating sides)
  •  
  • 25 leg raises (some straight on, some to either side)
  •  
  • and 100 more crunches to finish

Having one piece of my routine that is exactly the same each time lets me develop a benchmark for how my core strength is feeling. 

While your go to workout doesn’t need to mirror this, try to develop a workout that has definitive goals.  If your time is pressed, a short series of intervals will be more beneficial for your fitness than a 30 minute easy jog, most of the time.  Having some goals allows you to be focused during the workout, even if it is just for a short period of time.  Your go-to workout can be any genre: cycling, running, swimming, or spinning are all good options depending on where you live and can do readily.  Remember to build up your strength over time; trying to jump right into a “super set” tomorrow if you haven’t been doing a lot of core strength is a recipe to get injured.  Good luck with your training, and stay motivated: it will pay you back in enjoyment many times over on your next climb!
_____
Pete Van Deventer is a senior guide at RMI Expeditions, guiding climbs on Mt. Rainier, Mt. McKinley, and abroad. He calls Aspen, CO home, where he also teaches avalanche courses and is a fully-certified ski instructor.

Trekkers take a moment to sip tea in Pheriche, Nepal.   Photo: Linden Mallory

Mt. Rainier: July 6th Update

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Pete Van Deventer | July 06, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Mount Rainier Four-Day and Five-Day Summit Climbs reached the summit early this morning.  The teams reported winds and a small cap forming, as they started their descent the winds have calmed and it is a beautiful morning.

View of Mount Rainier from Paradise. Photo: NPS Webcam
5

WOW !!!  A dream fulfilled!!  Next stop K2?  It was so good to hear your voice & know that you were safely down from the climb.  You are AMAZING!!!

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Posted by: Momma B on 7/15/2015 at 8:00 am

Congrats Bob and Theo!  So totally impressed!

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Posted by: Maureen on 7/6/2015 at 2:04 pm


Mt. Rainier: Climbing Teams on the Summit!

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Pete Van Deventer | July 01, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Our Four Day Summit Climb team led by RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Pete Van Deventer reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning under clear skies, with warm temperatures and a light breeze.  The teams enjoyed some time on the summit before starting their descent from the crater rim just after 7 am PST. 

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz led by RMI Guide Geoff Schellens made a sunset climb last night and reached the crater with 100% of their team.

All three teams will descend to Paradise today and return to Ashford to conclude their programs.

Congratulations to today’s climbers!

5

That’s brilliant! Cameron, Connor, John and Patrick… Congratulations!! What an adventure. I can’t wait to hear the amazing tale.

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Posted by: Debbie on 7/1/2015 at 3:39 pm

Congrats, Chuck and all the climbers!

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Posted by: Ross on 7/1/2015 at 3:09 pm


Mt. Rainier: June 23rd Teams Summit!

Posted by: Brent Okita, Pete Van Deventer | June 23, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb team led by RMI Guide Brent Okita and the Five Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer reached the summit of Mt. Rainier around 6:45 am. Brent reported good weather with 25 mph winds. The teams spent about an hour on the summit before beginning their descent at 7:45 am.

An RMI Team crossing the summit crater of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita
5

Woohoo! Can’t wait to hear all about it! What an adventure.

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Posted by: Barb & Mark on 6/23/2015 at 11:01 am

Yeah!!  I am so excited for the entire team, I can’t wait to see more photos.  AWESOME!!!  I am so proud of you Miki!!!!

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Posted by: Christine on 6/23/2015 at 8:33 am


Mt. Rainier: June 18th Update

Posted by: Walter Hailes, Pete Van Deventer, Elias de Andres Martos | June 18, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Our Mount Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by Walter Hailes and Pete Van Deventer, were just reaching the summit at 7:10 a.m.  Walter reported winds of about 20mph, cool temperatures, and they were just below the clouds hanging right above the summit.  Both teams began their descent at 8:15 a.m.

Elias deAndres Martos and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team checked in and were at 12,600’ working their way to the summit.

An RMI team ascending Mount Rainier as the sun rises. Photo: Win Whittaker
1

Joseph…you never cease to amaze me!Love You, Mom

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Posted by: Kathy Dougherty on 6/19/2015 at 6:33 am


Mt. Rainier: June 13th Update

Posted by: Tyler Reid, Pete Van Deventer | June 13, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Mount Rainier Summit Climb, led by Ty Reid and Pete Van Deventer, is currently on the summit.  The weather report from the summit is sunny skies and moderate/steady winds.  An update will be posted when the teams begin their descent.

Congratulations summit climbers!

An RMI team on top of Mt. Rainier, Washington. Photo: RMI Collection
2

Congratulations NYSCF team - JAMES TEAGUE, RICH RUNDLE, MARK MCCAULEY and DIETER EGLI !!!!!  and to think you had ALREADY peaked when you surpassed your fundraising goal and raised $26,565… read more

Posted by: Jessie Teague on 6/13/2015 at 10:05 am

Way to go Stephanie and Pat!!

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Posted by: Lilli Pietromonaco on 6/13/2015 at 7:37 am


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Conclude Their Expedition

Posted by: Josh Maggard, Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young | June 02, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 348'

June 2, 2015 - 6:56 pm PT

The last few days of a trip always fly by. The summit, descent, and celebration in town all came together over the course of three days. Our summit day was spectacular, with blue, sunny skies, little wind, and balmy (0 degrees F) temps. We got up with the sun the next morning, which felt considerably colder, and packed our bags to descend. We originally planned to go as far as 11,200’ Camp, picking up our cache at 14,000’ along the way, but when we walked into 11k at 4.30 in the afternoon, and with plenty of energy to spare, we decided to keep the momentum rolling, rig sleds, and head to 7,600’ camp. The few hours of fighting with our sleds downhill proved well worth it. We got to camp at 8:30, where RMI Guides Geoff Schellens and Eric Frank with their Upper West Rib team were super nice and had stoves boiling for us already. We set a hasty camp since we were only going to be there for a few hours, and went to bed. We had our only real alpine start of the trip, waking at 2.30 am. The walk out the lower Kahiltna was one of the highlights of the trip. High thin clouds reflected the light of a not yet risen sun, and the alpenglow on the surrounding peaks burned a brilliant red. A wind at our backs pushed us towards Base Camp. The scene kept our eyes drifting to the sky, and it was impossible not to enjoy the walk despite the heavy packs and sleds. By 7:30 we were at the airstrip, ready for the first flights of the day to Talkeetna. In no time the incredible pilots from K2 descended in two Otters, we loaded the planes, and we were in town, taking in the scents of grass, flowers, and trees for the first time in weeks. We showered off the smell of 18 days on the mountain, and set about filling our bellies with something that we hadn’t carried on our backs. We spent the afternoon drying gear and packing bags for our inevitable separation, and then had a final celebration dinner at the West Rib, a restaurant that is synonymous with Mt. McKinley climbers. Now, we are beginning to part ways. Some of our climbers have left for Anchorage and flights home, while others are staying in Alaska for a bit longer, albeit as tourists. Jet boat adventures, bicycle tours, and road trips to the North side of the park all lie in the future. The guides will amuse ourselves tomorrow with some time on a boat, dropping lines for Halibut, before we also head South to the Mt. Rainier climbing season. The group did a spectacular job on the mountain, climbing smoothly and safely, and we were rewarded with a truly fine summit and 100% of our group on the summit. The guides thank the whole team for their efforts, laughs, and incredible chemistry; it was a really memorable trip for us as well! Thanks to everyone for following along. Now its off to a boat, where someone else baits the hook for us and the fish can’t help but bite!

RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and Team.

The RMI Expeditions May 12th Mt. McKinley Expedition on the summit May 31, 2015.  Photo: Robby Young

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14

Well done Renee!! Amazing achievement.

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Posted by: Michelle T VEC on 6/3/2015 at 10:58 pm

Wow Renee!! Congratulations!

You are an example to us all!

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Posted by: Kelly T on 6/3/2015 at 5:37 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Making Good Progress on Their Descent After Summit

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 31, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Sunday, May 31st 1:54pm PDT

This afternoon our team descended to 14,200 feet. Once evening hits, we will continue our descent to either the McKinley camp at 11,200’ or 7,800’.  If we stay on schedule and pending the weather, we will be at the airstrip and ready for our flight back to Talkeetna by tomorrow afternoon.

We will be home soon!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

On The Map

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11

Go Naie Naie! Enjoy the final climb down the mountain with team PJR! So happy for you all. You truly are an inspiration Renee. Tell Jord to buy you a… read more

Posted by: Sarah on 6/1/2015 at 8:28 pm

Wooohooo the final countdown is on team PJR!!!
You are such a champion Renee, can’t wait to see your smiling face back in Melbourne again :) Bet you can’t… read more

Posted by: Paul on 6/1/2015 at 8:03 pm


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