Entries By robby young

Peru Seminar: The Team Summits Ishinca!

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 03, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,400'

¡Buenas tardes! The team is back at Basecamp after a great, successful day on 18,143ft Ishinca. Everyone climbed well up the southeast glacier, which provided a steep, yet sun-cupped summit ridge. An early summit allowed us to descend via the southweat side, completing an up and over traverse of the mountain; extra credit for everyone! We’re now looking forward to an active rest day tomorrow, keeping an eye on the weather as our beautiful summit day turned into a dust of unexpected snow at Basecamp this evening.

Best regards from Perú!

RMI Guides Elías de Andres Martos, Robby Young and team

The Peru Seminar team on the Ishinca summit. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos

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Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Ready for Ishinca

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 02, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 16,300'

Ready to launch!

We’re all set to tackle our first objective tomorrow, Ishinca. We spent the day today training on the glacier, in the 16,300 ft vicinity. Everybody had a blast, performed well, and is excited to begin what soon will be (with permission of the mountain gods) the opening summit. Hoping to check tomorrow from “la cumbre”, that’s it for now.

RMI Guide Elías and team

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Peru Seminar: Elias and Team Check in From Base Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 01, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,400'

Good evening from Base Camp in the Ishinca Valley! We’re settling in for the night, an early bed time, as tomorrow we’ll have our first semi alpine start of the program. Today was spent reviewing the fitting and use of our equipment (the name of the game has been proclaimed as “we’ll be the most pro-looking team on the mountain”) followed by a thorough review of the knots and hitches we’ll use on this trip. A gourmet lunch by our cook Emilio, (fresh trout and quinoa soup) gave us the energy we needed to take a stroll to “Ishinca Cocha”, the glacial lake perched 1,000 ft above camp, and to continue to stimulate our bodies in the acclimatization process. Stay tuned for more!

RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team.

An RMI Team at Base Camp in the Ishinca Valley, Peru.  Photo: Elias de Andres Martos

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Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Arrive at Their Base Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 01, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,400'

Greetings from the Ishinca Valley! We’re writing from our base camp, at 14,400ft, right at the foothills of our first two objectives; Nevados Ishinca and Urus. We left our hotel this morning in Huaraz, and an uneventful bus ride took us to the sunny village of Pashpa, where we met our pack of donkeys and their gentle drivers. Four hours of hiking through a forest of quenuales (the Andean staple tree) took us to the open meadow where camp sits. Everyone hiked in pretty good style! Our first day of training starts tomorrow, and everyone is looking forward to move further uphill soon!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

The Peru Seminar team before leaving Huaraz. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos

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Peru Seminar: Team Acclimates on Hills Surrounding Huaraz

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | June 30, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 11,500'

Greetings all,

Today was one of those beautiful bluebird days in Huaraz where the views of the surrounding 20,000ft peaks are especially stunning. Our team took advantage of the perfect weather and made an acclimatization hike up into the hills above our hotel, to about 11,500’, in preparation of our move to 14,000’ base camp in the Ishinca Valley tomorrow. Views from the top gave us a great birds eye view of the city of Huaraz and the surrounding peaks. After the hike, we treated ourselves to a pizza lunch at El Horno, a local favorite located near the Casa de Guias, in the climbing center of Huaraz. After a packing session and a casual dinner, we’re prepped and ready for our move into the Ishinca Valley first thing tomorrow.

Thanks for following and we’ll be in touch from base camp tomorrow!

Best,

RMI Guides Robby Young, Elias de Andres Martos, and Team

The Peru Seminar team from the hills above Huaraz. Photo: Robby Young Huaraz, Peru, as seen from the RMI team's acclimating hike. Photo: Robby Young

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Peru Seminar: Elias, Robby and the Team Arrive in Huaraz

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | June 29, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru

Greetings from Huaraz!

We have arrived to the Andean capital of climbing after our standard eight-hour bus ride from Lima. Everyone is doing great and growing in excitement to get into the range soon. The highlight of the day was to see the Cordillera Blanca as clear as it could be from about two hours out, on a strategic bus stop; a few gasps of amazement were audible.
Tomorrow we’ll start our acclimatization process with a morning hike on the surrounding hills, to be continued by a packing session before hitting the trails for good the next morning.

That’s it for now from Huaraz,

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team

RMI Guides Elias & Robby arrive at the Lima Airport. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos Huaraz City in Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Conclude Their Expedition

Posted by: Josh Maggard, Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young | June 02, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 348'

June 2, 2015 - 6:56 pm PT

The last few days of a trip always fly by. The summit, descent, and celebration in town all came together over the course of three days. Our summit day was spectacular, with blue, sunny skies, little wind, and balmy (0 degrees F) temps. We got up with the sun the next morning, which felt considerably colder, and packed our bags to descend. We originally planned to go as far as 11,200’ Camp, picking up our cache at 14,000’ along the way, but when we walked into 11k at 4.30 in the afternoon, and with plenty of energy to spare, we decided to keep the momentum rolling, rig sleds, and head to 7,600’ camp. The few hours of fighting with our sleds downhill proved well worth it. We got to camp at 8:30, where RMI Guides Geoff Schellens and Eric Frank with their Upper West Rib team were super nice and had stoves boiling for us already. We set a hasty camp since we were only going to be there for a few hours, and went to bed. We had our only real alpine start of the trip, waking at 2.30 am. The walk out the lower Kahiltna was one of the highlights of the trip. High thin clouds reflected the light of a not yet risen sun, and the alpenglow on the surrounding peaks burned a brilliant red. A wind at our backs pushed us towards Base Camp. The scene kept our eyes drifting to the sky, and it was impossible not to enjoy the walk despite the heavy packs and sleds. By 7:30 we were at the airstrip, ready for the first flights of the day to Talkeetna. In no time the incredible pilots from K2 descended in two Otters, we loaded the planes, and we were in town, taking in the scents of grass, flowers, and trees for the first time in weeks. We showered off the smell of 18 days on the mountain, and set about filling our bellies with something that we hadn’t carried on our backs. We spent the afternoon drying gear and packing bags for our inevitable separation, and then had a final celebration dinner at the West Rib, a restaurant that is synonymous with Mt. McKinley climbers. Now, we are beginning to part ways. Some of our climbers have left for Anchorage and flights home, while others are staying in Alaska for a bit longer, albeit as tourists. Jet boat adventures, bicycle tours, and road trips to the North side of the park all lie in the future. The guides will amuse ourselves tomorrow with some time on a boat, dropping lines for Halibut, before we also head South to the Mt. Rainier climbing season. The group did a spectacular job on the mountain, climbing smoothly and safely, and we were rewarded with a truly fine summit and 100% of our group on the summit. The guides thank the whole team for their efforts, laughs, and incredible chemistry; it was a really memorable trip for us as well! Thanks to everyone for following along. Now its off to a boat, where someone else baits the hook for us and the fish can’t help but bite!

RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and Team.

The RMI Expeditions May 12th Mt. McKinley Expedition on the summit May 31, 2015.  Photo: Robby Young

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Congrats on the amazing achievement! Looking forward to all the war stories. :D

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Posted by: Brett on 6/2/2015 at 9:04 pm

You are a superstar little Duvo (Renee) I am so happy and proud of you. I knew you’d make it. Well done to all your team members and thank you… read more

Posted by: Kathy on 6/2/2015 at 8:55 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Making Good Progress on Their Descent After Summit

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 31, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Sunday, May 31st 1:54pm PDT

This afternoon our team descended to 14,200 feet. Once evening hits, we will continue our descent to either the McKinley camp at 11,200’ or 7,800’.  If we stay on schedule and pending the weather, we will be at the airstrip and ready for our flight back to Talkeetna by tomorrow afternoon.

We will be home soon!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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Team PJR, all climbers and of course our colleague Renee.
We are all so very proud of you, for achieving your goal of climbing Mt McKinley ! You truly… read more

Posted by: VEC on 5/31/2015 at 9:33 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Summit!

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 30, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 20,320'

Update Saturday, May 30th 8:30 pm PDT

Summit day! We decided to do something a bit unorthodox and wake up and leave early without the sunshine. Usually it would make for a really cold couple of hours, but the temperatures have been unseasonably balmy. It had the added advantage of getting us out ahead of several other teams that were heading for the summit also. The deviation worked out perfectly and we had a nice warm morning to walk, with no other teams in front of us. The skies stayed crystal blue all day, and 6 1/2 hours or so later, we were standing on the highest thing around! We had a good half hour on the summit, snapping pictures and taking it all in, before chilly breeze convinced us to head back for camp. We are back with plenty of time to brew up dinner and watch the later teams on their descent. It was a special day and everyone’s really excited. It was especially great to have the whole team make it to the top. Tomorrow we turn our sights downhill and start the journey home!

Pete, Robby, Josh and team

Saturday, May 30th 3:32 pm PDT

This is RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer calling in from the top of Mount McKinley in Alaska. We just touched the summit; it’s just past after 2 o’clock in the afternoon. Our group and Mike Walter’s group summited today in short order. It’s a really, really nice day up here—sunny, light winds, and relatively warm as far as Alaska goes. The whole team made it up. It was awesome, Really great day and everybody is excited. [cheers] We’ll give a shout when we’re back at 17k Camp safely and soon we’ll be back in Talkeetna before we know it, heading downhill. Alright, talk to everybody later.

Looking at the summit ridge of Mt. McKinley and Mt. Foraker from the summit of Mt. McKinley, AK. Photo: Solveig Waterfall


RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer calls from the summit of Mt. McKinley.

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MATT CONGRATS to you and your team for the fantastic climb. What an accomplishment in your life that you will always remember. You will have so many stories to share.… read more

Posted by: marilyn collura on 5/31/2015 at 6:46 am

Congrats Matt!! That is one hell of a climb, I am proud of you brother. I can not wait see you and hear all about it when you get back.… read more

Posted by: Michael M on 5/31/2015 at 6:27 am


Mt. McKinley: Pete Van Deventer & Team Ready for Summit Bid

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 30, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

Friday, May 29th 10:30 pm PDT

All according to plan! We woke up early this morning, packed everything up, left a bit of food and fuel in a hole at 14K, and headed up the fixed lines. We had another brilliant, sunny, calm day on the West Buttress, and were in camp at 17K by mid afternoon. A couple of hours of work leveling tent sites and building walls got us set to be here. The forecast looks good for tomorrow, so we intend to head for the summit in the morning. We’ll hope to be reporting success tomorrow evening! But now, to bed so that we’re ready to go.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard, and team

An RMI climbing team at the top of the fixed lines. Photo: RMI Collection

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