Entries By robby young
May 25, 2018
Friday, May 25, 2018 - 7:44 PM PT
We woke early this morning to beautifully clear skies, and fired up the stoves. After an efficient breakfast, we took down camp and packed up. It was a chilly morning, the coldest we’ve seen thus far (-10F), plus it was the earliest that we got out of the tents so far this trip.
We had beautiful weather and great climbing conditions all the way to the Genet Basin Camp at 14,200 ft, where we currently reside. It was a hard day with heavy packs, and everyone did well. After six hours of climbing at altitude with heavy packs we’re all ready for some dinner and then some horizontal time in the tents. Tomorrow we will go back to 13,700’ to pick up the cache we left there two days ago.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Hi Tom My Man!
If I have it right today is summit day. May the force be with you and may we be the wind at your back. You’ll find a pint at the summit we left for you, enjoy :-), Hujo and Katie.
Posted by: HUGH DE PENTHENY O KELLY on 5/31/2018 at 7:20 pm
Tom, rock on dude! Back in Bay for a few days, hiked with Jacquie and MSLDH’s yesterday. Back on PCT Wednesday Tuolumne north. Good luck to all!
Posted by: Christopher Rumm on 5/27/2018 at 8:55 am
May 24, 2018
Thursday, May 24, 2018 - 6:21 PM PT
The snow that started last night continued into the morning, necessitating a 3:00 am shoveling session to dig out our tents. We picked up a little over a foot of snow over night, with no wind.
We had a rest day planned for today anyway, so the snow was of little consequence. We simply ate a leisurely brunch and lounged around our tents, resting and acclimating.
Tomorrow, if the weather allows, we plan to move camp up to Genet Basin, at 14,200’. We will let you know how that plays out.
Awesome progress and so good to hear about the good weather!! -10 sure beats -70 that was showing on the weather reports a week ago! Wahoo! Be safe and know we are all thinking of you and following your progress each day! We hope the climb to the summit is spectacular and weather remains good!
Hugs from Larkspur!
Posted by: Susan on 5/25/2018 at 8:56 pm
Alex and Tom!
Keep up the great work and motivation! You all are truly amazing and such an inspiration to me!!
Posted by: Courtney on 5/25/2018 at 5:00 pm
May 23, 2018
Wednesday, May 23, 2018 - 5:21 PM PT
Our Denali team had another great day today as we carried supplies up to establish a cache around Windy Corner (~13,700’). The weather was perfect, with scattered clouds keeping the temps pleasant throughout the day. The climbing conditions we also perfect, with great, consistent névé for cramponing. In fact, the whole route so far has been in great shape.
Now we are back at our 11k camp, where we are lounging around, eating, and rehydrating. Tomorrow we are planning to take our first full rest day, as we need to recover and get used to the altitude before we move up to 14,200’
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
We are sure it’s ruff out there, but we are paw-sitive you two will succeed! (Dog puns are definitely intentional.)
-Isaac and Christina
Posted by: Isaac and Christina on 5/25/2018 at 4:00 pm
Enjoy your first full day of rest. Happy to hear the route has been in good shape so far and hope that continues. Not far to go!
Posted by: Mary Lou on 5/24/2018 at 5:40 pm
May 22, 2018
Tuesday, May 22, 2018 - 7:45 PM PT
Another day of beautiful weather let us descend back down to ~10,200’ to dig up our cache of supplies and haul it back up to our 11,000’ camp. The rest of the day was spent hydrating, resting, and preparing for the next step of this climb: establishing a cache at ~13,700’, just past Windy Corner. If the weather holds, that will be our plan for tomorrow.
We’re making good progress now, and we are all excited to exchange snowshoes for crampons and trekking poles for ice axes. Stay tuned as our progress continues.
On The Map
I hope the weather Gods are good to you this year. If you have room in your packs going down, rather than throw all that valuable stool down a crevasse, ship some to me for my fecal transplants. Business is booming.
Buenas suerte amigo.
Posted by: Dr Dave on 5/23/2018 at 5:40 pm
Hello Dave Head, Shane Kidd and Team hello from Las Vegas we love you guys so proud and love you stay safe we will continue to pray for your safety and good weather KEEP ROCKING !! you got his.
Love Mom and Dad #2
Posted by: Ken peterson on 5/23/2018 at 1:42 pm
May 22, 2018
Monday, May 21, 2018 - 11:51 PM PT
Our upward progress on Denali continues, this time moving camp up to 11,200’. Snow and weather conditions were near perfect with scattered clouds, a few snow flakes, and a light breeze to keep us cool.
Now that we’ve established a nice camp here, our plan is to go back to 10,000’ tomorrow to pick up our cache of supplies; this will set us up for moving up onto the upper mountain. Everyone is doing well and we’re hoping the good weather continues.
On The Map
Dave and Shane….. you guys are so close now. Great progress and great weather is seems.
May the Sun shine for you each day and the winds blow gentle.
Posted by: George Head on 5/31/2018 at 11:33 am
Alex and Tom we are so proud of you. Keep up the incredible work and wishing you all the best :-)
Love Amy & Phil
Posted by: Amy and Phil on 5/24/2018 at 12:17 pm
May 20, 2018
Sunday, May 20, 2018 - 1:12 a.m. PDT
The squirrely weather persists on Denali. It snowed all night last night, but fortunately we only picked up 4 inches or so. We woke up to more snow, wind, and very limited visibility. After breakfast we slowly started to pack up camp, hoping the weather would improve. Around noon the weather finally improved so we packed up our tents and rigged up our ropes.
By the time we were ready to walk, the weather was back its former, stormy self. We decided to give it a try and if conditions worsened we would make camp down on the Kahiltna Glacier and at least make some progress on the mountain. It was a good call because we made it all the way to Camp 2, at the base of Ski Hill (7,800’). We were in a ping pong ball most of the day—navigating using the wands marking the route, faint traces of other parties’ tracks, GPS, and a little Braille (well, maybe not Braille). Our navigation techniques worked and we cruised into camp in 5 hours flat!
Tomorrow the plan is to carry and cache supplies higher on the route and then return to our current camp. This will make for lighter loads when we move camp later this week and will help our acclimatization process.
RMI Guide Mike Walter and team
On The Map
Thinking about you Alex, Tom, and team. So happy to hear you are safe and making progress, thx for the updates!
Posted by: Sarah Flynn on 5/21/2018 at 7:22 am
Nice action photo, Thank you! Glad to learn that Team Water is now underway. My best wishes to the entire team, and a special Hello to Tom M -you’re all in my thoughts.
Stay safe, stay strong & thrive.
Posted by: Jacquie on 5/21/2018 at 12:26 am
May 19, 2018
The weather cleared up just long enough for K2 Aviation to fly our team to Base Camp in two de Haviland Otter airplanes. The window didn’t last long and soon it socked in and began to lightly snow. We set up camp and lounged around for the rest of the afternoon. Tomorrow the plan is to pack up and move camp to the base of Ski Hill.
RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team
That is one Helluva “Ski Hill” . My wife JoAnn and I overnighted in Talkeetna with K2 Aviation and took a flight up to Denali over the dramatically crevassed glaciers in 1993. JoAnn then went back as a Cruise ship excursion in 2000 with her three sisters. Looking up is as close to climbing in Ice and snow as I want to be, although I summitted Mt Whitney in 1986 on Father’s Day ant took a photo with a banner I had made saying “Happy Fathers Day” to give to my father. I piloted a Cessna 172 from Torrence, CA with two other “Climbers” for that “Attempt”. We had tried in May, a month before, but were chased off the mountain after one night in a tent by a major snowstorm. Hopefully you get good weather so you can have views up there. We all look forward to more from you.
Posted by: Paul Claeyssens on 5/20/2018 at 6:02 am
Go for it and be safe.
Posted by: Garland Dobson (PAPPY) on 5/19/2018 at 3:44 pm
May 17, 2018
The weather in Alaska is still unsettled, and our team remains on standby for clearing skies and a chance to fly into the Alaska Range. The weather improved for a bit this morning and we packed up the planes, two de Havilland Otters, donned our climbing clothes and boots, and loaded up the planes. But before we even got going, we received word that the weather shut down and snow had returned to Base Camp.
So now we are back to the Talkeetna hang as we wait for conditions to improve. We are all eager to start this expedition, but we realize that patience is imperative, as the weather is out of our control. This patience with the weather will be important to maintain throughout this entire trip; I’ll bet we see more of it over the next few weeks.
I’ll keep you posted if we get to fly this afternoon and, if not, then we’ll play the game again tomorrow.
May 16, 2018
We are kicking off RMI’s 2018 Denali climbing season. Our team met in Anchorage on Monday afternoon and traveled north to the small town of Talkeetna. Yesterday was a busy day of packing gear and preparing for our expedition, including a trip to the National Park Service to register our group and have a pre-trip orientation.
With our bags packed and weighed for loading onto the glacier planes, we’re all set for our adventure. Currently there is some stormy weather that is not allowing airplanes to access the Alaska Range, so we’re in a holding pattern until we get a clearing. We will keep you up to speed with the team’s status.
On The Map
Wishing Dave, Shane, and the rest of the team a fun and safe trip!
Josh and Chance
Posted by: Josh and Chance on 5/19/2018 at 4:46 pm
David and Shane…We wish you all an amazing and safe venture!! Stay safe. We can’t wait to hear all about it!! Love you to pieces.. Ken and Dean
Posted by: Dean and Ken on 5/18/2018 at 7:30 pm
The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Robby Young, turned due to snow and route conditions. The team was back to Camp Muir at 7:55 a.m. They will spend about an hour there and then begin their descent to Paradise.
Is Cory Prykull part of this expedition? Of so, good luck Cory! We are all hoping you make it to the summit!
Posted by: Karen Prykull on 9/26/2017 at 8:37 am
Checking if this is the group that Layton Petersen is a part of to follow his progress and experience
Posted by: harry petersen on 9/26/2017 at 8:17 am