Entries By robby young
And another summit came our way! Urus East proved to be a steep challenge today; bare glacier ramps of crystal clear ice preceded by long stretches of gnarly boulders and slabs and an engaging fourth class summit pyramid, sure squeezed our skills and endurance. But the views of our pinnacle objective coming up, Nevado Copa, across the valley to the north, reminded us that today was only another milestone in our journey to the 6,000-meter mark, and we descended in style, as guides like to say “keeping it together”, (and perhaps also animated by the improvised karaoke that Dan improvised on top to the tunes of Phil Collins’ “On a The Air Tonight” song.)
Tomorrow we finish our leg in the Ishinca Valley; we’ll be heading back out to Huaraz for the evening, and to an earned shower before “getting dirty” again for the last leg of our trip. Check tomorrow for some pics as soon as we get internet again.
Good night, RMI Guide Elías de Andres and team.
-Spanish climbing word of the day: “mochila” (backpack)
July 3, 2016
Good morning. This is Elias and the team calling from the summit of Urus East, 5,380 meters. It’s 9:30 am local time. We are having a good time. The weather is perfect, and we are about to start our descent. Check us out on the blog tonight for a full recap. We’ll be heading out tomorrow for a rest day in Huaraz before heading out to Copa. That’s all for now. Bye.
July 2, 2016
Buenas tardes from Ishinca Base camp. Rest day today with a good session of rope self rescue and abseiling in the afternoon is what was in the agenda. We’re climbing Urus East tonight, so an even heartier dinner was served before early bed time, which was delayed by the stories shared over the after-dessert tea. Weather keeps holding pretty good, and all seems lined up for a good day up the closest of the towers reigning over this unreal valley.
Stay tuned for our recap tomorrow,
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
-Spanish climbing word of the day; “grieta” (crevasse)
July 1, 2016
And we made it!
Nevado Ishinca greeted us this morning with more ice and steep terrain than any of the three guides remember. Intricate navigation on its summit pyramid required a good deal of attention to crevasses, moats and leaning seracs, but motivation and performance had us on top at 11am. We passed the only other team on the mountain before summiting, and the descent proved to be another adventure to ourselves; we decided to descend via a different route, completing a full circumnavigation of the mountain… not a piece of cake when the subject is an 18,100’ prominence. We’re headed to bed as we speak, and a well deserved rest day awaits tomorrow.
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and Team
-Spanish climbing word of the day; Rimaya (bergschrund)
July 1, 2016
Hello this is Elias, 11:00 local time in Peru. We just summitted Ishinca! I have some folks right next to me that would like to say something. [Team cheers!] Alright, that’s what you get when you climb in style with RMI. We are going to initiate our descent in the next few minutes and we’ll be blogging tonight with a recap of what we did. Tomorrow we’re going to take a rest day and we’ll be revitalized for the next climb up Urus. Stay tuned. Take care. Bye.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from the Ishinca summit!
Congrats, Dan and Augie, as well as the rest of the team! Looking forward to hearing about more adventures and summits! (By the way, I love the new design of the RMI blogs.)
Posted by: Darrick on 7/3/2016 at 10:48 am
Ed, tassja and team - congrats on the Ishinca summit! Looks amazing and I am sure you are in heaven! Just a side note Ed - I made it to the top :)
Posted by: Paula on 7/1/2016 at 10:05 pm
June 30, 2016
Expeditions into the great mountains of the world require an incredible amount of dreaming, planning, preparation, and finally, performing. The preparations our team has made leading them into the Cordillera Blanca culminated today with an alpine climbing school for the ages. We’ve trained and traveled, and finally put the finishing touches on our skill sets today with thorough instruction for the climbs ahead of us. Tomorrow, we perform. With stable weather building, we’re setting our sights on the jagged 18,143’ summit of Nevado Ishinca. With stomachs full of Lomo Saltado, we’re bedding down early to rest our muscles for the work that lies ahead. If all goes as planned, we’ll be calling from 18,143’ tomorrow.
—Spanish Climbing Word of the Day: Hielo Glaciar - “Glacial Ice”
RMI Guides Robby Young and Elias de Andres Martos and team
June 29, 2016
And our first full day in the Ishinca Valley just went by…
Sunny skies woke us up this morning, and we took advantage of them by doing a thorough session of hardware function and familiarization, as well as rope work. After a good lunch from our chef, Emilio, and we were ready for the afternoon acclimatization hike to “Tocllacocha” a glacial lake at 15,200’ on the northwestern flanks of impressive Tocllaraju.
Tea and another superb dinner followed upon our return. Tomorrow we’re headed to the glacier for our full-day mountaineering school, as well as a new dose of altitude and acclimatization exercise. Stay tuned!
Our Spanish climbing word of the day is ballestrinque which means clove hitch.
RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos and Robby Young
June 28, 2016
So there we were, moving into the “Blanca”. A few hours of hiking brought us to the mouth of Quebarada Ishinca. With “burros” hauling the big part of our load, we arrived in style to Ishinca Base Camp, home for the next 7 days.
Unsettled weather only allowed brief glimpses of the ice-cloaked, jagged “rajus” above.
If our senses weren’t already overstimulated enough, we sat down to a dinner of fresh trout at 14,300’. Stormy skies passed leaving us with a magnificent sea of stars highlighted by the Southern Cross. Until tomorrow, “buenas noches”.
-Spanish climbing word of the day; la cumbre (the summit)
June 27, 2016
Hi from Huaraz,
Official Day 1 of the expedition started this morning with an excellent acclimatization hike to “Puca Ventana” some 1,800ft above town. Good weather and better views, made a great morning for the team. If any of us doubted the hike made the heart pump enough blood to start triggering the acclimatization process, we found a stopped car in need of a jump to start, so we proved to be good Samaritans, and give the guy a push.
Some delicacies afterwards and a gear check to make sure we got what we need starting tomorrow, and we called it a day. A relaxed evening packing and enjoying the local food and fantastic facility of our hotel, is taking us to bed excited to start the journey into the Ishinca Valley first thing in the morning.
Our next post will be via our satellite phone, untill we come out to go to Copa.
Best regards, and stay tuned!
June 27, 2016
Hi from Huaraz!
The team united in the morning at our Lima Hotel, and shortly after, we jumped on our private bus, en route to Huaraz. From hours along the Pacific Coast, to the extensive land lots covered on drying chili peppers and corn, being baked by the sun, a visually stimulating drive greeted us as we started to go up the Conococha Pass. With 1 1/2 hours left of our bus drive, we got a first glimpse of the Cordillera Blanca, with Huascarán reigning amongst the clouds, and the Pastoruri Massif a mere stone throw from our “bladder emptying” stop in the 14K ft vicinity, right at dusk (yep, it’s winter here, and it gets dark early).
We met Peter, our local outfitter and third guide completing the guide team. Dinner and bed time. All is great so far!!!