Entries By taylor bickford

Monday, June 17, 2019 - 10:15 PM PT Today was very productive for our team. We woke at 1am, packed up camp, and hit the trail at 3am. By 8:30 am we had made it to the 11,200' Camp, colloquially known as Camp Three. We set our tents up, had breakfast and coffee, and a few hours of rest, and by 1 pm we were back on the trail headed back down to pick up our cache at 10,000'. By 3:30 pm we were back at camp with all of our supplies. But there was still work to do flattening tent platforms, building a kitchen, and fine tuning camp. Dinner by 6 pm and bed by 7:30 seemed appropriate for today. And tomorrow we earned a rest day. Snow is in the forecast for tomorrow, so we won't be missing anything. We'll touch base again tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Sunday, June 16, 2019 - 10:13 AM PT We let the snow surface freeze up a bit after dinner and left camp at 9pm, headed up the Kahiltna Glacier with our backpacks and sleds loaded with food and supplies we'll need a we move higher. The traveling was efficient and the views were stunning as out team enjoyed beautiful pink alpenglow on Kahiltna Dome and Foraker, two neighboring giants that are dwarfed by Denali. In three hours time we made it up to around 10,000' where we cache our gear in a hole dug deep into the snow. By 2 am, five hours after we started, we were back at our camp at the Base of Ski Hill and ready for bed. This morning we slept in and will enjoy an extended egg and bacon brunch. Then we'll have some more resting in store as we will wait for the glacier to freeze up again in order move our camp to 11,200'. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Saturday, June 15, 2019 - 1:51 PM PT When we hit the sack after dinner last night the weather was beautiful and we expected much of the same today. But the weather threw us a curve ball and at 3 AM we woke to snow and wind. We felt like we were inside of a Ping Pong ball, and the cloud cover prevented the snow from freezing last night. So, all in all, not an ideal morning. We pumped the brakes a little and decided to postpone this morning's climb for tonight. Instead, we had a great breakfast of bagels, cream cheese, and smoked salmon to pass the morning. We're currently still in the Ping Pong ball and wet snow is still falling. Hopefully tonight's weather will treat us better and we can get a cache of supplies up to around 10,000'. We'll keep you posted. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Friday, June 14, 2019 - 3:35 PM PT RMI's June 11th Denali expedition is officially under way. After an orientation with the National Park Service that focused on safety and environmental stewardship, as well as information about the West Buttress climbing route, we spent the rest of the day packing supplies for this three week expedition. We flew into Basecamp on the Kahiltna Glacier yesterday and promptly hid from the scorching sun as we crawled into our tents. We waited until the snow surface to freeze before we went anywhere which entailed an alpine start at 3 am. The glacier was in great shape and we traveled smoothly without the need of snowshoes for flotation. Here, at Camp 1, at the Base o Ski Hill (7800') we repeated the process of hiding from the sun. Tomorrow we will again take advantage of colder temps and firmer snow and get an alpine start to shuttle supplies up to somewhere around 10,000'. We'll keep you posted as to how it goes. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

RMI Guide Walter Hailes checked in this morning from Camp Muir. The Muir Seminar team is back from their summit bid. Due to unstable snow conditions, the teams turned after Ingraham Flats. The team had a mix of weather during their week-long seminar- some spectacular views and also some stormy weather of high winds and blowing snow. They learned a lot of mountaineering skills to take home with them after a week on Mount Rainier.

Hello from the Chimborazo Lodge located literally at the base of the mountain. From our windows we watch herds of llamas grazing in the pastures, condors buzz the hillsides and the mountain, straight up valley, show us she is certainly not done being angry at something. Which sets the stage for this upcoming tale. It is no secret that lessons surround us. Whether learned from business, school, love or mountain climbing. If we are aware and observant enough we should be able to find value and see reason through the events of everyday life. Today was one of those days we all learned something. Our time at high camp began with teaching our seminar crew the correct way to level tent platforms, secure the guy lines and properly tie down your house so the big bad wolf doesn’t come and blow it all away. Once settled in, we were treated to a great meal by our cooks and hit the rack about 6:30 pm. At that point the full moon was rising over the mountain and the wind was calming just a bit. By our wake up time at 11:45 the wind was calm but the clouds had unleashed some freezing rain which coated everything in a smooth sheen of verglass. By the time we departed camp the wind had picked up a bit and the mountain was sporting a nice cloud cap, beautiful in the full moon light. The terrain right out of camp was challenging but by the time our climbing team reached an elevation of 18,500 feet, a few had turned around due to fatigue and the unruly steepness of the route. The weather had also begun to deteriorate with gusts reaching upper 30s and a heavy coat of rime ice building on our Gore-Tex shells. By 19,300 feet only two climbers remained headed up. But that upward progress didn’t last much longer. By 19,800 feet the cloud was now fully upon us and the wind and rime became too much to safely continue toward the summit. So at 6:15 our final summit climbers turned around. The climb down can be as arduous as the climb going up because of tired legs, heavier muscle strain and outright exhaustion. As they have this entire trip, our team performed like seasoned veterans, all arriving back at camp by 8 am. Usually getting back to camp provides a deep sense of relief and comfort, knowing the hard part is over. This morning that was not the case as the winds increased moderately on the upper mountain, they increased dramatically at camp. I almost wanted to start climbing back up the mountain just to avoid the scene. The tents were being held down by rocks and people just to be kept from blowing away, the dining tent was literally beginning to tear itself apart and the noise of flapping nylon could likely be heard ten miles away. But through incredible teamwork we were were able to keep our houses from blowing away and got things packed in relatively good order considering the mountain’s jet engine was on overdrive. On the descent, some of us had to literally crawl on all fours to keep from blowing over. It was one of the windiest days I’ve ever seen. Thirty minutes after leaving camp we were sheltered enough to take a sigh of relief and walk normally to the bus waiting in the parking lot. After a brief time to reflect and sit down, we loaded up and headed to Chimborazo Lodge where we are about to take dinner and give a final toast to a mountain that has taught us much more than just climbing skills. So even though we didn’t reach the summit, we by no means consider this a failure. On the contrary, like our journey as a whole, we consider this a great success! It has been a wonderful two weeks! Team Ecuador signing off. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

This morning our team woke up at one the most impressive haciendas I’ve had the pleasure to visit in this beautiful country. I think what added to the splendor of the place was the outright need for rest after two big mountains in a row. The beds were superb, the food amazing and the amenities top notch. But in mountain climbing, as in life, all good things come to an end. So where are we now? Currently I am writing this at 17,500' from my sturdy but noisy tent on the southern flanks of Ecuador’s biggest mountain, Chimborazo. We were just fed dinner by our awesome camp staff so life could be much worse. On the other hand the wind is tumbling down hill at 30+ mph crashing into the tents and buckling them over on a routine basis making the sound of jet engine stuck in place. Not exactly last night’s digs. But now the full moon has begun to rise, we are wrapped up warm in our bags and the summit cleared up catching the last rays of sun enticing us to venture upward. Which we intend to do in five hours from now. Wish us luck as we attempt to reach the place farthest from the center of the Earth. And Ecuador’s highest point. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

Today the team had a very welcome rest day. After breakfast and loading our duffels onto the bus (again), we made our way to Ambato for groceries and a stop at Rey del Burrito, the Burrito King. It was far from your everyday lunch, as we were featured stars in a project by some local film students, and witnessed our teammate Dan take down "El Rey" - a 50 cm monster burrito. After Dan's dance with the King we made our way to Riobamba, the capital of Chimborazo province. The eponymous mountain was just barely visible through heavy clouds as we arrived at our hotel, getting us excited for a closer look. However, we were distracted from Chimborazo by the tremors of a distant magnitude-5 earthquake! Ecuador is certainly a dynamic place. After dinner and some trash talk-filled pool, we returned to the rooms to pack for our move to Chimborazo high camp tomorrow. The team is getting psyched for our shot at this beautiful mountain! RMI Guide Taylor Bickford

I’m thrilled to announce that 100% of team Ecuador made it to the summit of Cotopaxi this morning. As I mentioned yesterday the mountain got whipped up into a mood which made the prospect of summitting today fairly uncertain. But like I also said, you never know what can happen. Keeping this in mind I poked my head out of the hut at 11:45 last night and was amazed to see stars glimmering in the clear sky. This at least solved the moisture problem but the wind still rattled the walls and made roofs squeal, which we aptly named Godzilla. Once we motivated and committed to climbing, things just worked. Our local guides and RMI guides had a bit of differing ideas about pace, which is why there is no group photo, but all in all the climb was superb. Because we got separated a bit, some climbers made it back to the hut a good hour before the last but by the end, everyone was covered in thick rime ice. The good weather again lasted only long enough for us to get up and down before turning to a wet blowing soaker we are happy to be sheltered from. Now we are packing up and getting ready to once again load the magic bus and head down to the lowlands for our celebration meal and nap. Tomorrow is a well earned rest day. Before I close this I would like to wish happy birthday to the wonderful lady in my life. These beautiful summits remind me of you. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

Cotopaxi is 19,300 feet short and considered the Jewel of Ecuador. Yesterday we arrived at the mountain and were welcomed with beautiful views and pleasant temps. Hopes were high that our good fortune would continue and the next few days might give us stars at night and sun during the day. Last night however those hopes were dashed as the mountain came into a mood hammering the hut with high winds driving sleet. These unfavorable conditions didn’t threaten us like they did the climbers attempting the summit today but they did squash some of our training plans. At 8 am this morning everyone was up feeling much better than they did after their first night on Cayambe. Despite that refugio sitting at 15,000 feet, our acclimatization was so much better that a night at 16,000 feet here on Cotopaxi produced fewer headaches and more restful sleep than the latter. Which is good because an altitude hangover feels like you drank a bottle of whiskey but had none of the fun that goes along with it. All in all a lose lose. So after breakfast we watched the climbers roll in looking much like a popsicle left in the freezer too long so we took a nap and waited for the weather to settle just a bit. Which it did by 10:30, opening a small window for us to climb into and train for just a bit. It only took an hour for everyone to begin getting cold and wet, standing in a cloud blowing 25 mph so by 1 pm we were pulling the plug and heading back down to the security of the hut. During the afternoon we snacked on good meats and cheeses, thanks to John, and then studied anchors and crevasse rescue on coat hangers and picnic tables. Setting up a pulley system while drinking coke is sometimes better than doing the same while shivering in the howling wind. So after training we crawled into bed for some nice down time and will be having dinner shortly. As of now the wind has mellowed a bit so we are hoping that for our 11:30 wake up call the mountain will be over her mood and things will be nicer. But in mountain climbing you never know! It is the mystery we all enjoy. Stay tuned for news of our summit attempt. Buenas Noches, RMI Guide Adam Knoff