Entries from Everest

A week ago, under the soft grey winter skies of Seattle, Jeff Martin and I hauled our 8 duffel bags from the loading curb at Sea Tac to the Korean Air check-in counter. Two window and one aisle seat, three oxygen masks safety demonstrations, about 5500 air miles, and one questionable airline fish meal later, we piled the duffels onto a rickety luggage cart and rolled them through the doors of Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan Airport into the turmoil of Kathmandu. Since arrival our days are filled with preparations for RMI’s upcoming Everest Expedition. The array of moving parts that come together for a safe and successful Himalayan Expedition are at times overwhelming. It takes months of hard work by numerous people, both here in Kathmandu by our fantastic Nepali partners, High Altitude Dreams, to RMI’s preparations back in the States. While most of the minute to minute tasks are more of the mundane variety – from taking inventory of our lithium batteries supply (535) to the tetris challenge of packing the variety of medication and vitamin bottles into the tackle box of the Base Camp Medical Kit - the effect is invigorating. It is here in Kathmandu that the Everest Expedition morphs from the multiple separate components of focus that consumed our attention over the winter months to the cumulative creation of everyone’s efforts. It is here that the excitement builds and the climb begins to take shape. The Expedition becomes tangible and real: the tents and ropes are sorted and counted, the loads are packed and on their way by yak and porter to Base Camp, and the permit sits in front of us awaiting Dave Hahn’s signature as the Expedition Leader. The preparations in Kathmandu also plunge us into the city’s daily chaos: dodging traffic rickshaws and speeding taxes in an almost desperate game of frogger to cross the street, navigating the narrow alley ways in order to track down a crucial item, finding relief in the living rooms of friends’ homes while sharing a cup of tea and catching up since the last visit. On Saturday this teeming city of 1.4 million celebrated the Hindu Holi Festival, known as the Festival Of Colors – a holiday linked to several mythical tales in Hinduism and manifested in a messy, wild, and boisterous all day street party. Walking through the streets of Indra Chwok, a particularly narrow and busy neighborhood in Kathmandu’s heart, on Saturday, bands of people sang and danced in the streets, covering each other in red, yellow, black, and blue chalky powder as others dumped buckets of water from rooftops or lobbed water balloons from doorways. Amidst the frenzy of celebration, Jeff and I were greeted with shy hesitation at first –foreigners yet uncolored with powder amidst the festivities. Yet once a few brave souls rubbed our cheeks with powder we were marked: color came from every direction, buckets of water and water balloons launched our way. The hotel staff had more than a few chuckles when we walked in the door, grinning and covered in multiple colors. This week our Island Peak and Base Camp Trek team heads into the Khumbu, followed days later by our Everest Team, and we are again immersed in the world of the mountains. The time spent with crampons on our feet is often the focus of our climbing pursuits but this time in Kathmandu is a reminder that this too is a part of the adventure - even when wearing flip flops. The months of hard work leading up to the mountain, the places we travel to, the sites we see, the people, the stories, and laughs we encounter along the way are all part of our mountaineering adventures. - Linden Mallory

Team members Casey, Seth, Michael and Scott have returned to Basecamp after a night at Camp 2. Dave and Leif spent the night at Camp 4 after the summit climb, they are now at Camp 2 (ABC). Dave and Leif arrived at Basecamp today and reunited with the team. Now that everyone is here we will begin to pack up and then start their trek to Lukla. The Sherpa team has been breaking down the higher camps and will be carrying things down to basecamp today. We will be taking down the Comms tent today and getting ready to depart for Kathmandu. Thanks for following our expedition. Until next time...

South Col & Camp 2

May 25, 2010 - 1:47 a.m. PST / 2:30 p.m. UTC 26,500 ft./21,000 ft Mark Tucker at Basecamp: It continues to be a nice day and the team is doing well. Upon reaching the Sol Col (26,500') three team members have decided to call it a day. They will spend the afternoon resting and rehydrating before making an early departure tomorrow morning. The rest of the team has decided to continue their descent to sleep in the thick air of Camp Two at 21,000'. We expect to see everyone at Basecamp tomorrow.

South Col

May 24, 2010 - 11:15 p.m. PST / May 25, 2010 12:00 p.m. UTC 26,500 ft.

Mark Tucker at Basecamp: Everybody is at the South Col with all fingers and toes. At these kinds of altitudes, it is just about impossible to keep hydrated. Breathing pure, non-humidified oxygen, along with a limited supply of fluids in your pack, let alone finding time to consume it...you get the picture. It's all about recovery. First thing you want to do is collapse in the nearest tent, but you need to take care of yourself, the further behind you get the tougher to catch up. We have two support Sherpa at the Col, so all members are greeted with a cup of juice upon arrival. These first couple of hours will be critical if our guys will make the push down to C2 or spend another night at the Col. We have plenty of oxygen at the Col to support another night, but the lower the better. By 2:00 pm they will decide to stay or go. We will let ya know...

Descent

May 24, 2010 - 8:15 p.m. PST / 9:00 a.m. UTC 29,035 ft. Mark Tucker at Basecamp: Weather still okay as the team makes good progress on the descent. Still a couple days of hard work ahead for the climbers, and huge days for the Sherpa team to break down the camps. Not till our last load comes out of the icefall, will this team waiver from the techniques and attitude that has brought us great success on this expedition. It's been a lot a fun sharing our story with all of you. I will continue to keep you updated as news comes in. Thanks for all the support back home. All the best, Rainier Mountaineering Everest Team 2010

Party on TOP!

May 24, 2010 - 6:55 p.m. PST / 7:40 a.m. UTC 29,035 ft. Mark Tucker at Basecamp: Congratulations to the RMI Team! Dave, Leif, Seth, Casey, Michael, Scott, Tendi, Tshering Dorjee, Dawa Jamba, Da Gyldjen, Nima Tenji, Pasang Temba. On top of the world. All are doing well. A few quick pictures, a look around, then they'll start heading down!

First of RMI Team Arrives at Summit!

May 24, 2010 - 6:08 p.m. PST / 6:53 a.m. UTC 29,035 ft. Mark Tucker at Basecamp: Seth Waterfall is on the summit of Mount Everest. He has the summit all to himself. It is a bit chilly but he has plenty of oxygen and is feeling good! The rest of the team is at the Hilary step continuing up.

South Summit!

May 24, 2010 - 5:38 p.m. PST / 6:23 a.m. UTC 28,700+ ft. Mark Tucker at Basecamp: Just spoke with Dave via radio he and all others are on the South Summit changing O2 bottles. Some high level clouds keeping it cool so Seth had to get on the move or risk getting too cold, he is now on the Hilary step! Dave reports everyone in good shape.

Almost to South Summit

May 24, 2010 - 4:05 p.m. PST / 5:20 a.m. UTC 26,000 ft. Mark Tucker at Basecamp: Just received a radio call from Seth reporting he is approximately 10 minutes below South Summit. Dave and crew are just a bit behind. Little wind, some high clouds in and out, but overall great conditions.

At the Balcony

May 24, 2010 - 2:11 p.m. PST / 2:56 a.m. UTC 26,000 ft. Mark Tucker at Basecamp: All teams are at the Balcony changing oxygen bottles. The weather report remains calm winds and clear skies. The next check-in should be in approximately 2 - 3 hours, the South Summit, where I should be able to speak with the team directly.

Going For It!

May 24, 2010 - 9:30 a.m. PST / 10:15 p.m. UTC 26,000 ft. We have not been purposely holding out till the bitter end, I promise. You all deserve the final summit push. So lets bring it to you today and tonight. We sure hope that the old adage," good things come to those who wait", comes true. Tough call last night holding back the summit push, always a tricky situation, but it's looking very promising tonight. Snowed pretty much all day, but now......... not a cloud in the sky, and what a moon! Dave reports a little windy at the Col right now. I can't guarantee the team will summit, but there is a group of men at the South Col tonight that have done just about all that is possible to have a shot at the top. I can guarantee.... this RMI group will give Mount Everest the respect she deserves, and will not push harder than seems reasonable. It's all relative when you subject yourself to some of the most extreme conditions on Earth. With the support we have from our incredible Sherpa staff, and the wealth of experience our guides bring to this expedition. No worries mate. I may even get a few winks in between the dispatches I plan to send throughout the night.

Currently, the team is resting at the South Col waiting for the weather to calm so they can launch their final summit push. The original plan was to leave on the evening of the 23rd and summit on the morning of the 24th although weather moved in dropping several inches of snow which fell thru out the night. Because of the weather and limited visibility, the team decided to hold off on the summit push and patiently wait one more night. As of now, spirits and anticipation are high with an afternoon of clearing skies and decreasing snow. If things continue as they are, the team should have a good shot at a successful and safe climb. On another note, I descended to Basecamp with one of our climbers on the morning of the 23rd in a decision that we felt was best for us. We are both currently down monitoring the radios with full support and wishful thinking for our teammates up high. If things continue to go well, the team will depart the South Col tonight for an early morning summit. Wish them luck and safe travel!

1:00 p.m. PDT/ 1:45 a.m. Nepal Time Hi, this is Michael Brown calling from the South Col of Mount Everest. It's a very blustery snowy night and we've made a decision to wait another day so we'll be here 24 hours more. Been monitoring the weather and it looks like we might have a little bit more wind tomorrow; but, possibly less snow because at the moment it's snowing and there's clouds all the way over the summit. Chances are we would be climbing all the way up in the snow and back down again in the snow so not really a very pleasant day for climbing. Give it 24 hours and hopefully we have a better result tomorrow. Thanks for standing by and we'll stay in touch, we'll keep calling and letting you know what's happening. Take care. 12:25 p.m. PDT/ 1:10 a.m. Nepal Time Our group has continued to evaluate the weather and has now decided to postpone their summit attempt until tomorrow. Spirits remain high and everyone is hoping that the weather looks better tomorrow. 10:15 a.m. PDT/ 11:00 p.m. Nepal Time We just heard from our team at Camp Four. They have been watching the weather and have decided to hold tight for a little while and hope for clearer skies. We will let you know when they depart Camp Four. 6:10 a.m.PDT/ 6:55 p.m. Nepal Time A quick update from Mark Tucker at Basecamp says that the summit team is currently at Camp 4. Everyone is doing well. They have had dinner and hot drinks and are heading for their tents for some sleep before they begin their summit attempt. We wish them good luck!

Via radio to Basecamp All is well here on Mount Everest. We have one summit team that is at Camp Three today and another team remaining at Camp Two for an extra rest day. The weather continues to improve and our plan is for everyone to move up one camp tomorrow. There were many more climbers on the summit today and several teams are in place to make their summit bid tomorrow. Everyone is doing well and we are excited to be continuing our move uphill tomorrow. Keep us in your thoughts, wish us well.

Via radio from Camp 2 Hey this is Seth checking-in from Advanced Basecamp (ABC) on Mt Everest with our summit folks. The whole team is here just settling in for dinner. Everyone is doing great. (Cheers in background) Tomorrow we plan on tackling the first part of the Lhotse face and spending the night at Camp 3. The weather forecast has been in and out but the last one shows some improvement. So we will plan to leave tomorrow morning in the dark, after one night at Camp 3 we will move up to the South Col and then finally the summit. On a final note we want to wish our Basecamp Manager, Mark Tucker, a Happy Birthday! (Cheers in the background). Happy Birthday Tuck! That is it from Advanced Basecamp.

Via radio from Camp 2 Some snow in the night but it didn't present much of an obstacle to us. Our entire team was up at 3:00 a.m. and walking at around 4:00. We went through the icefall in good time. Casey's group stayed at Camp 1 as planned. Our half of the team went to Camp 2 arriving just after 10:00 a.m. We are excited to be here again, there is a lot of electricity in the air now. We watched many climbers going to Camp 3 today, and they had to fight through very strong winds. The jet stream is obviously over Mount Everest right now. To our knowledge nobody is at the South Col in position for a summit bid at this moment. It seems as if every team on the mountain is poised for the summit in the next 3 to 4 days. We are still very interested in the path the storm Laila takes, but our forecast has given us encouragement that it is not headed directly towards us. Tomorrow both teams will be at Camp 2 and hope it will be our last rest day of the trip.

Mark Tucker reporting from Basecamp. 4:15 am - On the move! Woke up to a blanket of white. A few inches of fresh snow last night but not snowing now, and brightness starting to shine on the upper reaches of surrounding mountains. The team had a smooth departure from base camp minutes ago. All members were looking good and in high spirits (most took a shower yesterday so even their fragrance was not so bad ) Just a couple other headlamps in the icefall this morning, so no traffic jams for our boys. YEE HA!!