Entries from Mt. McKinley
Our time in the Alaska Range finished wrapped up just a couple of days ago. We had an extra 2 bonus days in the mountains. Our fly off date was set, but the weather determines our true fly off date. The snow began to fall the night before our scheduled departure date, it kept snowing for the following 2 days. Veteran climbers stated that this had been one of the biggest snowstorms, at Base Camp, that they could remember in the past
7 years. Over 3 ft of snow fell in a little more than a 36 hr period. We woke up on Saturday morning to crystal clear skies, soon the planes began to fill the skies. Everyone at base camp looking for a flight out spent the previous evening stomping out the run way for the planes. Still, when the planes landed it was obvious how deep the snow was for the planes. I think the pilots were getting faceshots, as the snow was hitting the windshields of the planes. We all arrived back in Talkeetna in the early afternoon, on Saturday.
The week consisted of lots of information being uploaded and downloaded to a very enthusiastic group of climbers. Us guides were very impressed with how much information this group of climbers soaked up. Topics covered a wide variety of mountain tactics, how to simply live comfortably in an environment that was cold and snowy, how to set up a camp, crevasse rescue, snow and ice anchors, climber responsibilities, avalanches and rescue, ice climbing and the list continues.
Everyone had a great time experiencing the Alaska range. Ideas have already been hatched for future trips to visit Little Switzerland, the Ruth Gorge or other objectives around the base camp area, from members of this group. Climbing around the Kahiltna base camp area offers a great experience for your first time to Alaska. Hopefully we will see you up here soon.
Everyone is on their way home now but memories will last a long time of this very special place.
Thanks again from Jason, Andres, Anne Gilbert and RMI
Posted by: Mike Walter, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 9,600'
This morning we awoke to our first views of the Alaska Range. After sitting out the storm in Talkeetna and flying on with clouds still in the area, we were pleasantly surprised with a beautiful sunny day. Our first big hill of the trip greeted us right out of camp, but even with this challenge we moved well up to camp at 9,500'. The Kahiltna Glacier is in great shape which made our travels nice and fluid. Base camp received 3 feet of snow while we sat in Talkeetna, but this just made for great navigating and smooth sailing for us. As we moved into the steeps of Ski Hill, there was a perfect trough to keep our sleds in line and upright. With our first challenges behind us, we rolled into camp around 5:00 and made a yummy birthday dinner for Carl...61 today!! Now, we're resting up for another big push tomorrow to 11,000' camp. Happy Mother's Day to all of our moms! Goodnight.
RMI Guides Mike Walter, Pete Van Deventer & Maile Wade
On The Map
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Mike Walter
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'
Hey all! Our previous two day's waiting game turned to hustle and bustle yesterday as the skies opened and allowed the planes to fly. Our flights left right after breakfast, and we landed at basecamp, resplendent with a new layer of snow. It's still early in the season, and basecamp was quiet, with just a handful of climbers waiting to fly off, or start their climb uphill.
After a couple hours spent packing, rigging sleds, and digging our cache, we were on our way, dropping down the SE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier to begin our ascent up the main fork. The skies quickly closed and it began to snow, obscuring the views and dropping the temperature significantly. We made camp in light snow last night, but this AM woke to sun and clear skies! The plan is to make a move to our next camp at 9,600' today.
Happy birthday to team member Carl Devendorf, and everyone would like to wish their moms a Happy Mother's Day!
We'll be in touch soon.
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and the gang
On The Map
Mike M….Following your progress…...and rooting for you!! Wishing you clear skies, good weather and the most magnificant views!!
Posted by: Annette on 5/14/2012 at 11:55 am
Go Mike! Have a great climb. I saw the mountain this morning in the sun on my way to work. Looks awesome. Stay safe.
Posted by: Jeff on 5/14/2012 at 10:06 am
After a great training seminar in the Alaska Range and a few days waiting out the weather at Base Camp, RMI Guide Jason Thompson and team have returned to Talkeetna.
The team awoke to clear skies and anxiously awaited the sound of aircraft over head. They weren't disappointed. Everyone is back in Talkeetna looking forward to warm showers and a meal they don't have to make themselves. They will be transferring to Anchorage later this afternoon.
Congratulations on a safe and successful week!
Posted by: Mike Walter, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 358'
The May 8th Mt. McKinley Expedition led by RMI Guides Mike Walter, Pete Van Deventer and Maile Wade is now en route to Base Camp. The weather in Talkeetna was clear this morning and the team headed for the K2 Aviation hanger.
Good luck on your expedition!
Stay safe and make every day epic!
Posted by: Erik on 5/16/2012 at 7:07 pm
Go team! Climb safe, climb strong!
Posted by: Drew Tulumello on 5/12/2012 at 9:27 pm
Posted by: Mike Walter, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 358'
We spent the day waiting for our weather window to fly on to the glacier, but two feet of snow at Base Camp last night and continuing snow through today have so far prevented us from making it on. Rather than idly twiddling our thumbs, we decided to make the best of a warm dry hanger and practice our crevasse rescue skills and self rescue systems. Everyone is feeling better about their systems after a lot of practice and playing with knots and tricks. We still have one and a half hours to go before the planes are grounded for the night, increasingly it is looking like tomorrow morning is more likely for flying. Hopefully our next post will come from there glacier!
Best,
RMI Guide Peter Van Deventer
Unfortunately the weather did not cooperate with us today, and we were unable to fly in to Base Camp once again. While it seems as though the weather is improving, the conditions were not conducive to flying; no planes left Talkeetna today with the intention of trying to land at Base Camp. We took advantage of the down time today and did some dry-land review of crevasse rescue. There were also some pretty competitive games of ping pong going on this afternoon in the Hangar as we waited on standby for the weather to clear. We’re all eager to fly, but we understand that climbing Denali requires patience. Hopefully we get a break tomorrow and can fly in to Base Camp and establish ourselves on the mountain. In the meantime, we’re enjoying Talkeetna.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Well the snow continues to pile up. Our storm board is reading 68 cm of snow in the past 36-hour period. The wind has been picking up, intensifying the storm. Turns out, this storm is a little bigger then they first thought.
We spent three hours this morning digging out our tents and the cook tent. We're all staying busy here on the glacier, experiencing the other part of Alaska, the weather.
Well not too much else to report, hopefully we'll be off the glacier sooner then later.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
48 card deck! hilarious. i thought that only happened at my house. i can’t believe you are STHUCK! (christmas story) Brandi, am i seriously going to have to drink wine by myself in Anchorage tomorrow?!?!? stay warm. see you soon. i need to get back to packing… elizabeth
Posted by: elizabeth on 5/11/2012 at 10:38 pm
Good luck on the climb. Have fun walking up and down the runway at base camp. Been there and done that.
Posted by: Stephani on 5/11/2012 at 5:41 pm
Good evening from Talkeetna. The weather didn't cooperate with us today, and we were unable to fly in to Base Camp. The snow and clouds never lifted from the Kahiltna Glacier, making it impossible to fly planes into the Range.
We were all suited up and ready for show time this morning, but our plans got put on hold. We waited around all day, hoping that the weather would lift and let us begin this adventure. We have all spent countless hours training and preparing for, and dreaming of, this climb. And we're all excited to see this adventure start and our dreams come to fruition. But we also know that this is a long expedition, and we must be patient. For now, we'll enjoy the creature comforts of life for another night...a good dinner, a warm bed, and a hot shower.
We'll touch base again tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Hope you are on the way up so you can come down soon
Wishing you sunny days and good times. Be safe.
Posted by: mary doyle on 5/14/2012 at 10:19 am
tell coleman to take his time——we lost the goldman line any way….. all the best smoker
Posted by: josh jacobs on 5/11/2012 at 11:43 am
There was about two feet of new snow last night at Kahiltna Base Camp. It is currently snowing and visibility is low. We are in standby mode and playing cards with our one set of 48 cards.
It turns out the little snow storm from yesterday is lasting into today. We are waiting for some clear weather and our flight off the glacier. The thunderous vibrations of avalanches somewhere off into the thick clouds are pretty cool canceling out the wind and the snow battering the tent. Everyone has had a great time, but most are ready for some beers.
Signing out from the land of positive vibrations.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
On The Map
Posted by: Mike Walter, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 358'
Yesterday was the first full day of the 2012 RMI Denali season. After a great team breakfast at the historic Talkeetna Roadhouse, we headed to the National Park Service for our pre-climb orientation meeting, followed by a full day of packing and sorting our gear at the K2 Aviation hangar.
We're all excited for this trip to start, and optimistic that we will be able to fly on to the Kahiltna Glacier today. There are some clouds in the sky, and a little precipitation in the forecast, so we'll see if the planes are able to fly or not. Hopefully our next dispatch is sent from the glacier...either way, we'll keep you posted.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Good luck guys (and gal)! I hope the sooner you get on the glacier, the sooner you get off. :) Stay warm and stay safe.
Stephenie
(Kyle H’s girlfriend)
Posted by: Stephenie on 5/11/2012 at 9:26 am
Fingers crossed the weather cooperates today and you get on the glacier. Here’s to good flying conditions and getting this show on the road! Good luck to the team. XO
Christina D
Posted by: Christina Doren on 5/11/2012 at 9:01 am
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Team, We wish you GREAT LUCK on McKinley. Be safe. Sara and Bill McGahan
Posted by: Bil McGahan on 5/17/2012 at 3:40 pm
happy birthday carl & best wishes for great weather.
summit on!
Posted by: lars on 5/14/2012 at 6:37 pm
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