Entries from Mt. McKinley
After a calm night and a good night's sleep at Camp 3, we're packing our backpacks and getting ready to head out to take a cache of gear to 13,500'. The weather is beautiful, sunny with no wind...but the temps are still cold!
We'll be in touch tonight or tomorrow and let everyone know how our day went.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
First things first: Happy Mother's Day from our Denali climbing team!
Yesterday we woke to clear skies and cool temperatures at Camp 2, and we packed up camp and moved up to Camp 3 at 11,200'. The snow conditions were excellent for traveling, and the temps were cool but comfortable, and perfect for climbing .
After good day of climbing, and a few hours of establishing camp, we settled in to the comfort of our cook tent to enjoy a delicious meal of chicken quesadillas.
Today we are resting, hydrating, and acclimating to this new altitude. After a huge breakfast of eggs and bacon, we have begun to fortify our camp- reinforcing our snow walls and our tent anchors. This afternoon we will spend time sorting our gear in preparation for taking a cache to 13,500'.
Everyone is doing well, and we're hoping for good weather tomorrow to get our cache in place. We will check in again tomorrow, and let you know what we're up to.
Mike
Fantastic!
Posted by: David Hampton on 5/9/2011 at 7:16 am
Congrats to the team on making it to camp 3 - glad everyone is in good spirits! Jeff - hope you are hydrating and eating lots! We all miss and love you.
Erica
Posted by: Erica on 5/9/2011 at 7:06 am
Hello from 11,200' on Mt. McKinley. Our team is wishing all moms a Happy Mother's Day. We're having a nice rest day in a little bit of a storm. Our tents are nice and toasty though and we'll be all set to carry a load to 13,500' tomorrow if the weather allows.
We're at 11,200 feet! The camp is quite the scene as there are at least 6 nationalities represented. The weather today was stellar and we moved smoothly into camp. We're all set up for a few days here, and tomorrow we plan to take a well deserved rest day.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Thank you for the updates! You have all been in the Symphony’s thoughts!
Posted by: Amy on 5/16/2011 at 10:43 am
Glad to hear you are doing well. My prayers are with you. Tell Jim that I missed him at the concertlast night. Jeff Beck was fantastic!
Love,
Ann
Posted by: Ann Boyko on 5/8/2011 at 4:49 pm
Yesterday we flew in to Kahiltna Base Camp to start our climb. The weather was beautiful, and everyone enjoyed the spectacular flight from Talkeetna; flying over the tundra and then into the Alaska Range; seeing the extensive span of mountains, with the dominating presence of Hunter, Foraker, and our objective, Denali; passing the Pika and the Ruth Glaciers then over the Kahiltna and landing on the glacier. We arrived at Base Camp early, and took advantage of the good weather to pack our equipment and move to Camp 1 at the base of Ski Hill.
Today we moved up to Camp 2 pulling our sleds loaded down with equipment, food and fuel for the next couple of weeks. The conditions have been great for traveling and the weather cooperative. Some clouds moved in this afternoon and very light snow started as we got to camp. The forecast looks good, with some light snow tonight and tomorrow; we should be able to get to Camp 3 (11,200') tomorrow.
Everyone is doing well. We'll be in touch again soon.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Mike Walter
A big hello from Chicago! Please tell Jeff that we are all so proud of him and can’t wait to hear more updates. I saw your mom, Alyssa and family yesterday and they send their best. Bulls series is tied now 2-2, we lost tonight. Lakers lost in 4 to Dallas. Miss you and thinking of you always.
Erica
Posted by: Erica on 5/8/2011 at 7:42 pm
Hi Dave I will try to keep all the UPS drivers updated on your insane journey. Be careful
Posted by: nava on 5/8/2011 at 9:05 am
Today we moved to 9,300' on Mt. McKinley. We had great weather on the trail. As we reached the top of Ski Hill it started to snow so we set up camp and hunkered in for the evening. We are all settled in and are resting for another great day tomorrow.
We will keep you posted on our progress.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
This is Seth checking in from 7,800 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier. Today we awoke to clear skies in the Alaska Range. It was great to have a 'normal' day after a whirlwind start to our trip. Yesterday was supposed to be our packing day in Talkeetna but we had an opportunity to fly in the evening so we decided to go for it and now we're a day ahead of schedule. After a breakfast of bagels and smoked salmon we spent 5.5 hours on the trail. We then enjoyed some warm weather while we had dinner in camp. Now the sun is behind the mountains and everyone is tucked in their warm bags. It's been a great start to the trip.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
I will be praying Jim, for you and your team, that you have a safe trip.
Love Always,
Ann
Posted by: Ann Boyko on 5/6/2011 at 8:11 pm
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Everyone (and their baggage) arrived on time in Anchorage yesterday, and we headed north to the small town of Talkeetna. We had a relaxing evening, eating dinner as a group at the famous West Rib Pub, talking about the trip, and getting to know each other. This morning we met at the the Talkeetna Roadhouse for a group breakfast to formalize our plans for packing and preparing for our upcoming expedition. Talkeetna is a small and unique town; situated on the south side of Denali National Park, it is the staging point for hundreds of climbers who venture into the Alaska Range. Town is still sleepy this time of year, just coming out of its winter hibernation; the streets are quiet, few airplanes are in the air, and patches of snow are still in the yards. When we return in a few weeks, Talkeetna will be in full swing; tourists and climbers will be walking through the streets, the air will be filled with the buzz of single engine aircraft (and mosquitoes), and all of the trees and lawns will be green.
Most of the day today was spent at the hangar of our bush pilots, K2 Aviation, packing our gear and going over all of our equipment. While we all have spent months planning this trip, today was still a very busy day making sure we had the right gear for the trip, inspecting our tents and stoves, and double and triple checking everything.
We also met with a National Park Service climbing ranger for a formal orientation to Denali, which included a slide show of our climbing route.
We plan to fly into Kahiltna Base Camp tomorrow (weather permitting) to start our adventure. We will be in touch with detailed dispatches throughout the trip. Everyone says hello to our friends and loved ones back home. Here’s to a safe and successful trip!
RMI Guide Mike Walter
What a great adventure! I’ll bet you don’t know that Mrs. Richardson’s fifth and sixth graders in Indianapolis are traveling alongside you!
Regards,
LA
Posted by: Lee Ann Richardson on 5/6/2011 at 9:51 am
Kenny and team-
Good luck. Excited to hear about this adventure. I hope you have fair weather conditions and a safe, fantastic climb for all. Chris Mannschreck
Minden, Nevada
Posted by: chris mannschreck on 5/5/2011 at 7:48 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Mt. McKinley Mount Rainier
For twelve days in late March, 9 other guides and I convened in the Wasatch mountains of Utah for the AMGA Ski Guides Course. The course, first in the ski guide certification track of the American Mountain Guides Association, is aimed at teaching and honing the skills for ski guiding in technical but non-glaciated terrain (the majority of the skiing terrain in the lower 48!) Over the 12 days, we mixed evening classroom sessions of technical rope skills, coaching, soft skills, and video analysis for skiing, with days spent touring the incredible terrain surrounding Salt Lake City. The course culminated in a two night, three day yurt trip near Logan, UT.
The three day yurt trip allowed us to have lengthier and more realistic “mock guiding” leads. Acting as guide for a group of guides who are playing the part of clients can be a contrived situation, and often presents challenges that are above the typical demand of a normal day guiding. The pressure is ratcheted up, as one can imagine setting a steep kick turn in an uphill track, while four other guides and two instructors all judge that kick turn and comment. Besides the pressure of setting tracks and style, there was the pressure to find the group good snow on the descent, and more often than not, the classic problem of people seeing their own lines that were “better” and desperately wanting to step out of their roles. The challenges were often humorous, though, and the pressure pushed everybody to step up to the plate in a type of guiding that was unfamiliar to most of us. Almost everyone in the course came from a guiding background, however, most often this was alpine guiding, the kind of climbing we do here on Rainier, the North Cascades, and Mt. McKinley. Many of the skills from the alpine realm are readily transferable to ski guiding; client care, many of the technical rope systems and short roping, and uphill guiding are all very similar. But ski guiding presents its own challenge: Down guiding. Trying to guide a group of skiers safely down a line can be a totally different ball game. Balancing the safety issues of being out ahead first to assess snow pack, safe zones, and boundaries, with the desire for client satisfaction, first tracks, good snow, and an uninterrupted run can be tricky. In addition, all of this happens at much higher speed, and things can change quickly.
Guiding techniques are always changing and improving as people dream up new systems or improve on old ones, and I always take away a lot of new tricks. This course was no exception. Add to that new snow almost every day (several feet fell on the Wasatch while we were there) and a great group of fellow students, the ski guide course was a great experience and chance to get a lot of feedback from other guides! A big thanks to the First Ascent/Eddie Bauer and RMI guide grant for helping me to get there!
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Hey!! We got flown off Denali this afternoon. It was our 21st day on the mountain and it began with low cloud and unflyable conditions. We cooked up a casual breakfast on the glacier and waited patiently, checking in hourly with K2 Aviation via sat-phone. By mid-afternoon, the sun was trying to peak through and our visibility had improved a great deal. K2 was having some difficulty with thick cloud blocking the approaches on their side of the mountain, but they kept on trying to find holes. At three PM their perseverance paid off, in came the airplanes and out we went. The gang is getting together one last time in just a few minutes. Time for a triumphant feast at the West Rib and a few toasts to a good mountain, good luck and good friends.
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Just want to wish the team in Mt Mckinley the best. Have fun be safe. And want to send my love to Jerald AKA Monkey…..Love you!
“Look With Wonder At That Which Is Before You”
Carolyn
Posted by: Carolyn Tomlinson on 5/9/2011 at 7:47 pm
Hi Jeff! I got your post card today - it absolutely made my day! Can’t wait to fill you in on all of the exciting things going on back here :)
Love you always,
Erica
Posted by: Erica on 5/9/2011 at 5:50 pm
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