Entries from Mt. McKinley
Well, we're still at the 11,000' camp below the
West Buttress. The temperatures dropped and the winds picked up considerably today as a cold storm system is affecting Alaska. Apparently, it's snowing in Anchorage; that's about 11,000' lower altitude than our camp. So yeah, it's cold here. But we're all doing well. Most of the day found us either in our sleeping bags in our tents, or in the cook tent, staying out of the wind and passing the time by reading, playing scrabble, and telling stories. We're hoping the winds abate tomorrow and we are able to move camp up to 14,200'. We'll keep you posted.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Today we woke up with a deep blue sky and a 360-degree view. The team slept well for our first night on the glacier. After some coffee and breakfast, we all had the experience to try the CMCs which is one of the biggest novelties of the trip.
Once we were well fueled and ready to head out of camp, we traveled over to a slope close to camp and completed our
snow school. Lots of learning and reviewing made for a fun day on the glacier.
All and all a great day!
RMI Guide Andres Marin
On The Map
Hi all, today kicked off the official start of the second
RMI Denali expedition of the 2013 season! We spent the day dealing with the more unsavory and tedious parts of mountain climbing in our preparation for tomorrow's flight into the range. Namely, we checked (and re-checked) gear, completed our orientation and permitting process with the NPS, and packed up and weighed all of our food and equipment for loading the planes. We enjoyed a team dinner on what is hopefully our last evening in civilization. The team is psyched, strong, and maybe a bit nervous but certainly ready to go - we just need the weather to cooperate tomorrow morning so we can get into Basecamp.
we'll see...
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
We had the to opportunity to fly today, and get established in base camp. The flight over the Alaska Range was incredible, the group was totally stunned by the views. We built our camp and ate some delicious quesadillas that
Garrett Stevens made. Then called it for the day. It is really cool at base camp right now. Time to rest and get ready for a great day tomorrow.
All best,
RMI Guide Andres Marin & The
Expedition Seminar Team.
On The Map
We woke up early to a beautiful morning today: cloudless and calm, but very cold. After fueling up for the day with a good breakfast, we started up
Motorcycle Hill in the shade, bundled in warm clothes. Our packs were loaded with supplies to cache up high. The weather couldn't have cooperated much better for us today. After the initial chill on Motorcycle Hill and Squirrel Hill, the temperature was very comfortable on the Polo Fields and around Windy Corner to our cache sight at 13,600'.
We climbed and descended about 2,500 vertical feet today before arriving back at our camp at 11k. We had a big meal and plenty of fluids, and now we're all horizontal for the night. Our next step will be to move camp to 14k. We'll keep you abreast of our progress...
RMI Guide
Mike Walter and Team
Yesterday we all met at the Anchorage Airport, drove to Wasilla and bought some food before reaching our final destination of the day, Talkeetna. Once we arrived and settled in, the group had the opportunity to check out Talkeetna and enjoy their great food.
Today we have a super busy day ahead of us. Breakfast, check in with the National Park Service, pack our gear, and if weather permits, fly onto the Kahiltna Glacier and set up camp. Sounds simple but believe me it is a lot! We are all very excited for the flight to the glacier. In my opinion, it is one of the many highlights of climbing in the
Alaska Range.
We will be checking in later on.
All best,
RMI Guide Andres Marin and the Alaska Expedition Seminar
On The Map
Hello again from the 11k camp on
Denali!
We decided to take another day to rest and acclimate to the altitude. We spent most of the day lounging around, reading, listening music, napping, and telling lies, all the while getting stronger for our forays up higher.
The weather was cloudy, cooler, and windier today, and a trace of snow fell overnight. But as I lie in my sleeping bag typing this dispatch, a cloudless sky sits above us. We're hoping for good weather tomorrow so we can carry supplies up to around 13,600'. We'll stay in touch.
RMI Guide
Mike Walter & team
We've been enjoying good weather on the Kahiltna Glacier, and today was no different. After a trace of new snow overnight, we awoke to partly sunny skies. A breakfast of smoked salmon with bagels and cream cheese started off our day. After breakfast, we packed up camp and began the climb up towards Kahiltna Pass, en route to the
11k camp. We're taking advantage of the good weather and making good progress so far. Tomorrow we'll sleep in and take a rest day and prepare a cache of supplies to carry up around Windy Corner.
We'll keep you posted on our next move. Until then, we'll be resting...we've earned it.
Mike & team
On The Map
Greetings from the Kahiltna Glacier. We had a great day yesterday, as we flew into
Kahiltna Basecamp in the morning, prepped our gear, and started climbing. The weather was beautiful and the snow conditions were perfect for efficient travel. We took all of our gear to our first camp, at the confluence of the Kahiltna Glacier and the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, at the base of Ski Hill.
We started this morning with bagels & cream cheese, with bacon, before we packed up and started climbing. Leaving camp, Ski Hill
provided the first (of many) up hills of our journey. We climbed once again with great weather and snow conditions, hauling our heavy expedition loads on sleds and in our backpacks. With tired legs, sore shoulders, and tender hips, we arrived at our Camp 2, 9,400' on the Kahiltna Glacier. A hearty dinner of Indian food filled our stomachs, along with plenty of hot drinks to rehydrate.
We're in our tents now, looking forward to a restful night's sleep. It's snowing lightly, with no wind. We're hoping for good weather tomorrow, and moving up to Camp 3, at 11,200'. We'll be in touch again soon with an update.
RMI Guide Mike Walter and team
On The Map
After our beautiful bluebird day on Mount Frances we went to bed satisfied with our climbing. We spent our last full day dialing in rescue techniques and ice climbing in crevasses.
Yesterday we woke up early for our flight back to Talkeetna and enjoyed a celebratory toast. A sweet success! Everybody left for home with lots of knowledge on modern climbing techniques and as more experienced climbers.
Thank you very much team for the great times in the Alaska Range and I'm already looking forward to next year's
Alpine Seminar.
All best,
RMI Guide Andres Marin
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we have been thinking of you and glad to hear all is fine. been warm here in CT and undoubtedly cold there - we’d both benefit from something in between. most important, take care and stay safe.
Posted by: david areson on 5/17/2013 at 10:51 am
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