Entries from Mt. McKinley
Saturday, May 30th 2:45 am PDT
Hello all! We have our gear and groceries moved up to
10,000 feet. Life is good out on the glacier for our team. Today the high pressure over the area made for very hot conditions in the low altitudes so we delayed our departure until the heat subsided late this afternoon. We are doing our best to save energy and avoid getting cooked like lobsters from the sun.
Our plan worked great and after a number of hours working our way to the cache site, we quickly dug a large hole to store our gear until after we move the camp up to 11,000 feet. On our descent we enjoyed fabulous evening light while carrying our sled like a turtle shell strapped on our backs. Hot soup and a meal warmed our souls as we settle in for the night.
Tomorrow evening if the hot and blue-bird weather continues, we will try to move up to our second camp and gain some acclimatization over the next few days. Stay tuned and we'll have a report when more progress has been made!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
On The Map
Friday, May 29th 11:00 pm PDT
Expedition life lends itself to improvisation and today gave us the perfect opportunity to think on our feet. Our original plan was to carry a load of group gear to the top of the fixed lines at 16,500' and rest a full day tomorrow. However, a strong high pressure system moved over the mountain, opening the gates to the upper mountain for all of the other teams that have been stuck at 14,000' for days. As a result, camp was extremely active today as well over a hundred climbers woke up early and began a move to high camp. The fixed lines were jammed up all day with climbers, and rather than wait in that line ourselves, our team formulated a new plan.
Today became our rest day. We relaxed in the beautiful weather at camp and took an afternoon stroll to the
Edge of the World. Guides Adam and Andy, studs that they are, completed the high cache on their own in the evening once the fixed lines cleared up from the folks that were moving up. Our goal tomorrow is to pack up camp early, and move ahead to high camp, putting ourselves in the perfect position to attempt a summit bid in the next few days while the good weather lasts.
The team is in high spirits and feeling strong! Goodnight!
RMI Guide Nick Hunt and the rest of the team
On The Map
Friday, May 29th 10:30 pm PDT
All according to plan! We woke up early this morning, packed everything up, left a bit of food and fuel in a hole at 14K, and headed up the fixed lines. We had another brilliant, sunny, calm day on the
West Buttress, and were in camp at 17K by mid afternoon. A couple of hours of work leveling tent sites and building walls got us set to be here. The forecast looks good for tomorrow, so we intend to head for the summit in the morning. We'll hope to be reporting success tomorrow evening! But now, to bed so that we're ready to go.
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard, and team
On The Map
Friday, May 29th 7:00 pm PDT
We woke early to perfect weather, packed up camp and headed to
17K. We have a good forecast and hope to summit tomorrow. We'll be in touch as our summit bid progresses.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Friday, May 29th 12:52pm PDT
Today the
UWR (Upper West Rib) McKinley team is scurrying around getting all of our gear dialed for the glacier. Planes are landing and taking off every few minutes, which keeps us motivated to stay on our tasks. Line by line we are crossing off our check lists, and the piles of food and gear are growing to epic proportions.
The weather is stable right now, and it looks promising that we will fly on tomorrow.
Thanks for following along. We'll update everyone from the glacier!
RMI Guides
Eric Frank and
Geoff Schellens and team
May 29, 2015 10:41am PST
As the sun hit our tent we woke up ready for our back carry to above windy corner. We could hear the wind in the distance scouring the buttress above us. But here at camp it was calm and brisk. Since we worked hard on our move to
14 camp and our back carry would only take a few hours, we opted for a relaxing morning before our work had to be done. After lounging in the posh till late morning we geared up and retrieved our cashed equipment and food.
When we got back it was only mid afternoon, so the next task was to fortify camp with walls in case the wind decided to give us trouble. Little did we know that our team consisted of Egyptian craftsman. In no time or camp was secure.With much of the day left we took a solid break and made some fresh coffee, which is a real amenity up here. After being properly caffeinated we practice fixed line travel which will be a well needed review before cashing at 16,200.
We are feeling good and are putting ourselves in a position to head higher on the mountain. With a little more acclimation and calm weather we will be ready for high camp and a bid at the summit. We are all very excited.
RMI Guide
Adam Knoff & Team
May 28, 2015 11:34pm PST
After a big day yesterday, we took it easy today to rest up for a forthcoming summit push. We woke late and enjoyed a breakfast of eggs, bacon; and hash browns which stretched into afternoon. A few hours of sorting gear, napping, and reading led into a dinner of quesadillas. Unfortunately, the meat department may be getting low... From here on out its freeze dried dinners, ramen, and oatmeal. With that in mind we savored the fresh food, and wrapped up small details for tomorrow. Everything seems to be lining up for us to move to
high camp tomorrow. We'll wake early, beat the sun out of camp, and take our second stroll along the West Buttress. Everybody is excited and fired up.
Keep your fingers crossed for us!
RMI Guides Pete, Josh, Robby, and Team
Thursday, May 28th 10:37 pm PDT
We woke up this morning to blue skies in Talkeetna, which meant great weather for flying! After a meal at the roadhouse we scurried over to hangar to transition from Talkeetna street walkers to
Denali climbers. With climbing boots on and smiles on our faces we enjoyed a great flight onto the mountain.
Once we arrived at Basecamp the team was highly efficient organizing their gear. After a minimal amount of time at Basecamp we embarked on our journey up the Kahiltna Glacier. Several hours later we arrived at our camp for the night at 7,800'. The team immediately set up tents to shade themselves from sun and nestled in. After a delicious meal of Annie's Mac and cheese we hunkered down for the night.
We will check in again tomorrow night after another day of good work.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
On The Map
The
Upper West Rib team assembled today at the Anchorage airport and started our journey north to Talkeetna. All of us are excited to have the trip underway. We have lots of logistics and preparing to take care of, but that will start tomorrow. Tonight we are going to get settled into our hotel, have some dinner, and relax. That's all for now, thank you for following along with us as our adventure begins.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
May 28, 2015 - 10:12 pm PT
The weather played out as forecasted today, with strong winds blowing plumes of snow off of
Denali's summit and West Buttress. We were happy to be down here at the 14,200' camp where the winds were much more manageable. We enjoyed a leisurely brunch of bacon, eggs, and bagels while the winds howled outside. Much of the rest of the day was spent reading and napping in our tents.
The weather forecast looks good for us. We plan to rise early tomorrow (Friday) and make the strenuous climb to high camp at 17,200'. If all goes well, we'll shoot for the summit on Saturday. This is by far the best weather forecast that we've had all trip and we plan to take full advantage of it. We're well rested and acclimated, and eager to climb. We'll let you know how it goes.
RMI Guide Mike Walter & team
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Booyah - a high pressure system! Thinking of you all scrambling up those fixed lines. G Barber, you have these dialed! Hats off to the guides for putting your team in a good summit position. Enjoy the amazing views to high camp! xoxo, Ker
Posted by: Kerry on 5/31/2015 at 11:26 am
Wow! You have amazing guides! Looks like the weather is perfect for you guys! Go for it!! Good luck at high camp and on summit day. We’re thinking of you. Take care!
Posted by: Joyce Tocher on 5/30/2015 at 2:47 pm
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