Entries from Mt. McKinley
Hello from Mt. McKinley,
Awakening to perfect skies and no wind provided a great start to our carry to 13,500' today. The team rose to the challenge of the steeper terrain and climbed well. With that done, we just need another reasonable day to move camp to 14,200' from which the summit is tantalizingly close.
But of course, there is still so much yet to do before we can be thinking of that.
For now, an afternoon of rest after getting back and a hearty meal of mac and cheese with loads of bacon should get us fueled up for our big move in the morning.
I think everyone is feeling good about the day to come. I know I am.
Until next time, at 14,200', with any luck.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
We made it to high camp yesterday in hopes of a summit attempt today. The winds did not cooperate but tomorrow's forecast is looking good.
Please send good weather vibes our way! The team is doing great and ready for their summit attempt.
We will check in tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Our day began with more unsettled weather, but seeing that we had a short day in store for us, we got an early start on retrieving our cache from 9,600' and were back up to camp by 12:30. And that's when the weather finally broke in earnest, greeting us with windless, sunny conditions. Finally!
We took great advantage of an afternoon with little to do and relaxed for a few hours. Later, we did get a short training session in where Leon and Maile refreshed our cramponing and ice axe arrest skills. This in preparation for our big carry up to 13,500', where the slopes steepen appreciably and the use of crampons and ice axes are essential. Everybody is ready for the challenging day and excited to start climbing.
We were also psyched upon hearing that Mike Walters and his group had finally made it to 17,200' camp. Well, I too better get some rest for tomorrow's climb.
Goodnight from 11,200'.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
We finally saw a break in the weather today and took advantage by caching high on the West Buttress! Today's trip up the fixed lines was undoubtedly the most pleasant weather I have ever seen up here. Our team moved smoothly and efficiently all day in the midst of a throng of other climbers that had backed up at 14 over the past week of bad weather. If the good weather holds (it's supposed to) we're heading up to high camp tomorrow at 17k. The team is tired but will recover tonight for tomorrow's big move!
Ciao,
RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Solveig Garhart, and the gang
Getting to 11,200' camp today came easily as we sported some very reasonable pack loads, having left a majority of our food and fuel at 9600', which we'll be picking up tomorrow morning. To make things even better, we were able to walk into a camp that some folks had left, leaving us free of the tiresome chore of building camp from scratch.
I guess the day started out on a good note with a special breakfast of toasted bagels, cream cheese and smoked salmon. Although the weather started off snowy and cloudy, as we approached the corner leading to 11,000', the sun came out and things cleared allowing us to enjoy the incredible vistas around us. Although the weather up higher on the mountain has apparently been rather unwelcoming, we have been doing OK.
We're looking forward to another fairly easy day tomorrow before we don the crampons for our carry to 13,500' in a couple of days.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
On The Map
Wulp, here we are. Day three pinned down at 14,200' by winds up high on the buttress. Last night we weathered gusts in excess of 55mph but it hasn't trampled our spirits. The forecast is calling for a significant calming trend that looks like it might be our window for a summit attempt later this week. Anyhow, we've been enjoying the sun and are passing the day grazing in our tents. Tomorrow will certainly see some activity with the improving weather; most likely a carry to stock our high camp with some food and fuel. Wish us luck!
Signing off,
Well, the weather through us another curve ball. We were all set to move to high camp this morning, but we had 50 mph wind last night, along with snow. I was up at 5:30 this morning, checking the weather, and it was still blowing ~50mph up on the ridge. We were all up early, and had breakfast, in preparation to break camp. But the winds have been persistently high all day; and we're still waiting to move up. The good news is that the latest weather update has light winds forecast for this coming week. We're optimistic and hope to move to high camp tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
The weather cooperated today allowing us to finally take in the incredible views to be had on the Kahiltna glacier. Which was nice given that we opted to make a single carry up to our camp at 9600', and at least the views helped distract us from carrying loads that were heavy beyond belief. But we all made it to camp by mid afternoon, appreciative of the fact that this was to be our last single carry for the trip. From here on, we'll be making double carries, that is, making two trips to every camp we establish and carrying only half our loads at a time.
Tomorrow we'll be moving up to 11,200' and establishing camp there, but we'll leave a fair amount of our food, fuel and assorted other personal equipment not needed for the next couple of days here at 9,600'. We'll pick this gear up the day after tomorrow. This will allow us to spend longer acclimatizing at 11,200' in preparation for our move later in the week to 14,200' camp.
Leon, Maile and I were impressed by the group yet again as they took to the job of getting camp set up like pros. And this after a grueling day's climb. What a great team.
We are all looking forward to getting up to 11,200' tomorrow!
RMI Guide Brent Okita
On The Map
This is Solveig and Billy checking in for our team here at Camp 4. This morning we awoke to improving conditions but still not good enough to make our carry up the fixed lines. We have been enjoying sunny skies and light winds down here in camp. Social hour began after breakfast and we've spent the better part of the day getting to know our neighbors here in camp. We also spent some time getting rigged up and practicing for the fixed lines and running belays.
We hope the night will bring decreasing winds and we will be able to head uphill tomorrow.
RMI Guides Solveig Garhart and Billy Nugent
We're still at Camp 4 waiting for the winds to subside up high. The weather is pleasant here at camp. The forecast looks promising for us: summit winds decreasing to 30 mph by tomorrow. Hopefully we can move up to high camp tomorrow and be in place to make a summit bid the next day, or soon thereafter.
Everybody is doing well and we're all eager for the opportunity to climb.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
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Tell Frank Carole Catie Beth and Will arerehearing for him!
Posted by: Carole on 5/25/2011 at 7:10 pm
Great work team! Thanks for the updates!! Zac, we love you and miss you! M, T & B
Posted by: mary candelario on 5/25/2011 at 1:19 pm
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