Hey, this is Alaska Mountaineering Seminar checking in. Last night we went to bed under increasing wind and snow. This morning we woke up to continued snow and wind and whiteout conditions.... The sun finally peered through this evening giving us a gorgeous last sunset for our time here on the Kahiltna Glacier. Tomorrow morning will be getting our flight back into Talkeetna after a great week here in the Alaska Range. Take care.
Jason Thompson checks in for their last night on the Kahiltna Glacier
This is Solveig checking in from Camp 4 @ 14,200'.
Today our team is enjoying a rest day, which nicely corresponds with a weather day. The wind has been blowing strongly and we have received nearly a foot of new snow in camp since last night. This afternoon we saw a few sun breaks but still the wind continues! We are keeping busy with ipods, books, and sport eating (not because you need to, but because it's fun!).
Yesterday the team constructed a cook shelter surrounded by high wind walls of snow blocks. We have been enjoying eating meals and taking a break from the confines of our tents in our plush livingroom/kitchen! The forecast looks like continued winds and snow through the weekend, so most likely more resting is in our future. Maybe tomorrow we will constuct a tunnel to Mike (Walter) and the other RMI team's camp!
Hello to all our friends and family back home, and we'll check in again tomorrow!
RMI Guide Solveig Garhart
A few inches of snow fell overnight, along with strong winds here at Camp 4; today is more of the same. Sounds like back at Camp 3 they got two feet of snow last night.
We're patiently waiting for a break in the weather. In the meantime, there's lots of reading, playing cards, eating and sleeping to pass the time. We're still doing pretty well with food and fuel supplies up here. And, as importantly, everyone's patience is hanging in there.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Looks like Monday might bring a window for ya’ll!
National Weather Service is saying winds diminishing.
Lets all hope that works out.
Go team!!
Posted by: David Hampton on 5/21/2011 at 11:34 am
Hi Ken,
It is still raining here. I can’t wait to see the sun. I won’t have to worry about turn on the sprinkler system. Ally and I had pedicures today after her program at the Works. Then we went out to dinner at the Fish Shanty. She is doing well but misses you. Take Care..I miss you too!! Love Cathy & Ken
It's been an adventurous couple of days so far. It took three flights to finally get onto the glacier, the first attempt getting turned back about half way to the airstrip on the SE fork of the Kahiltna glacier. The second time we were just four minutes from the airstrip when ground fog turned us back. But, at 6:00pm we finally made it! I've got to hand it to our pilots. Three attempts is unprecedented.
Given the hour of the day we opted to make camp and begin our climb in the morning.
I'm sure I wasn't the only climber on the trip to fret about the winds and snow the was blasting our tents all night, but at 6:00am the weather settled and we awoke to calm skies. Unfortunately, it didn't last and clouds and snow soon became the order of the day. Navigating in conditions like this can be a challenge, but I soon discovered that we had a secret weapon on our team: our guide Maile Wade, whose uncanny eyes could pick out even the smallest speck of a wand in the white out conditions that our first day served up for us. Coupled with my gps, we made it to tonight's camp at 7800' in great order. Of course, the tiresome winds of the day challenged our camp building skills, but I have to hand to the entire team, everybody dealt exceptionally well with all that was thrown our way today. The first days of these big expeditions can be trying even in nice conditions, and that everyone was in great spirits at the end of the day bodes well for the rest of the trip.
In the parlance of the young: 'I'm psyched!'
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Got the message that you guys moved up to @ 9600’ Great job! Please post an update on how the team is doing when you can.
Posted by: Marina on 5/22/2011 at 7:41 am
HW- hope the weather will get better. BB made a new friend with a 3yr old boy with glasses in her soccer class today. All of us are well and we wish you & your team a successful climb. Love, F
This is the RMI Alaska Seminar checking in from the snowy Southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Well, the storm is finally on us as we’re going to be right now. The tents are shaking and the snow is coming down. Today we built some bomber walls that are protecting the wind from our tents. The crew is settling in nicely and looking forward to weathering their first Alaskan storm up here. Hopefully the storm will precip tonight and clear out for tomorrow so we can do some crack rescue training. Stay tuned and we’ll check in tomorrow. Take care.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
RMI Guide Jason Thompson checks in from the Kahiltna Glacier
Hello to everybody following along!
It's been a couple of days or so since we last checked in but we've been very busy. Yesterday we picked up camp at 11,200' and moved up to 14,200'. The weather was decent for our move but turned south as the evening progressed. We were very glad that we spent the time building walls to protect our tents because the National Park Service weather station recorded gusts to 55 mph last night! Today we back-carried the rest of our supplies from our cache at Windy Corner and spent the rest of the afternoon digging out an elaborate posh (cook tent) despite pretty bad weather (snow & wind).
That's about it for now! Rest day tomorrow...
RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Solveig Garhart and the crew
Also: Drew would like to wish his brother a happy birthday!
Just wanted to say hello and we are thinking of you!! Hope the weather gets better and everything goes smoothly.. Dylan wanted me to tell you he says hello and give you kisses!! :) He is getting so big, can’t wait to skype next!!
wishing you and the team good luck and good weather!!!
LOVE YOU!!!!!
Posted by: Tove on 5/20/2011 at 3:21 pm
I look forward to reading your blog. Stay strong and enjoy!
Drew, I love you and was thinking of you a lot yesterday. Mom
Update: 5:00 pm PST -
Brent and his team got to within 5 minutes of Basecamp on the second flight before having to turn around and fly back to Talkeetna. The weather was just not cooperating.
As of 5:00 pm, the weather is improving and they are going to try it for the third time. Hopefully they will be in Basecamp in a few hours. We’ll keep you posted.
Update: 1 pm PST
Brent called, the team got about 20 minutes from the airstrip when a ground fog rolled in that prevented their landing at Basecamp. The plane is all packed with their gear ready to go, so right now they are back at the K2 Aviation Hanger having a great time celebrating Maile Wade’s birthday…Happy Birthday Maile!
Well, it's day 15 of our trip and our first real storm day. Winds gusted to 55mph last night in camp, are gusty today and it's snowing lightly. We're in good spirits and have a good camp established here at 14k. And we're all optimistic that the weather will improve and give us a chance to move to high camp and go for the summit.
The RMI Team led by Billy Nugent, arrived in Camp 4 last night. It's good to see them; they are doing well. We shared our kitchen with them last night and today, so they have a sheltered spot to cook and eat while they work on excavating theirs today.
Keep your fingers crossed that the weather improves over the next few days. We're hanging tough and doing well...
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Hi Jeff! Missing and thinking of you - hoping for good weather to come your way! I can’t believe it’s day 16 already - everyone from home says hi and is rooting for you. I am so proud of you, stay focused. Miss and love you lots!
Erica
Posted by: Erica on 5/20/2011 at 7:18 am
Hey Ken, Windy there, rainy here! We have had almost a week of overcast rainy weather. Ally and I are hoping the weather changes for the climb soon. The sun is suppose shine here tomorrow. All is well at the restaurant. Graduation is tomorrow. Pizza place still not open. We miss but are keeping busy. Love you Cathy & Ally!!
Tomorrow begins the 21st chapter of my personal McKinley saga. It’s late and I’m kind of all packed up. Funny how after all these years of leading these expeditions the excitement just builds as I approach the date when we begin the trip. That day is tomorrow, when the other guides, Leon and Maile, and I fly up to Anchorage to meet the group and begin the expedition.
Both Leon and Maile are veteran McKinley guides. Leon guided with me two years ago, and Maile cut her teeth last year on her first trip. I’m pretty lucky to have these two guides working with me. Not only do they both have prior Denali experience, but they are great to work with. And it goes without saying, one of the key things to a successful, fun expedition is how folks get along on a trip. For three weeks we will be working hard, struggling at times, dealing with a sometimes uncomfortable and unforgiving environment. So the people we are literally tied to, day in and day out, really make or break a trip.
I know a fair number of the climbers on our trip, though not everyone. But that is also part of the fun of these expeditions: getting to know a group of people on a pretty intense level. I’m looking forward to it!
Reflecting on the relationships forged on these climbing adventures I just need to look back a few hours ago when I received an email from a team mate from my 1991 Everest trip. We noted that it was our 20th anniversary this week of our summit of that mountain. A different time in mountaineering history, to be sure, but what’s certainly not lost is that sense of companionship, team work and whatever else happens within a group of climbers when they set off to climb a big mountain like Everest… or Denali.
Perhaps even more meaningful was another email I got today from a climber with me last year who just ‘called out’ to wish me all the best for my upcoming climb. His outreach reminded me again of just how special these trips are. I guess I’m feeling pretty darned fortunate to be doing what I’m doing.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Hello. This is the RMI Alaska Mountaineering Seminar checking in from our camp at 7,300 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier. It's 11 PM here in Alaska and the team is in bed for the night. Just came back from a successful summit day on Mt. Francis. The team was 100% successful and cruised the route in just under 11 hours. We had beautiful weather, clear skies, and just a little bit of wind. Everyone climbed strong and we're looking forward to getting back to training tomorrow. Take care.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
RMI Guide Eric Frank checks in after Mt. Francis summit
Congratulations all. Where are the pictures? Have fun training tomorrow - hopefully weather will hold well.
Tell Jitendar we cant wait for him to get back home. Kids miss Dad!! Love,Mamta
Posted by: Rao Family on 5/19/2011 at 7:33 pm
Congratulations on the summit of Mt. Francis. I saw the 360 panorama on you tube, very cool!, Tell McKinley to enjoy her leisure time as I am putting her to work sailing as crew with Captain Bligh Max Lenker on a 44 ft. Island Packet sail boat on an exploratory trip to Culebra and Vieques in the Spanish Virgin Islands. I have another crew hired named Michael McDaniel. Sailing Virgin Islands 2 - 12 June. Good luck tomorrow. Post some pictures. Max
-640x480.jpg)
Hi to Sergey and th team from Shapoval family! Sounds like you guys are having fun - way to go. I wish I could join in :)
Posted by: Marina on 5/21/2011 at 6:19 am
View All Comments