Entries from Mt. McKinley
Wow, after a couple hectic days in Talkeetna our crew finally completed packing all of the food, fuel, and assorted junk (but still expensive junk) that we'd need for our Denali expedition. We were greeted with fair skies and calm winds for our flight out to basecamp where after a hot meal we've settled in for the night. The crew is certainly eager and excited for the challenge and the hard work that lies ahead but is undoubtedly feeling slightly apprehensive. It's hard to imagine that one wouldn't be surrounded by such massive mountains on all sides. The weather tomorrow is calling for another sunny day and we plan to take full advantage by pushing a single carry out to the base of Ski Hill.
More news to come as the situation develops...
RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Gilbert Chase, Geoff Schellens, and the rest of the gang.
On The Map
After much discussion and hearing a favorable weather forecast for the next few days, we decided that an extra day at 11,000' was the best way for the group to rest and acclimate so we are strong for our move to 14,000'. We are looking to move tomorrow and are expecting good weather for pulling into camp.
As for today, we lazed around all morning in the posh, but had to move outside as the day progressed. It was way too hot to hang out in tents or the posh, a rare treat for a May Denali trip. I think today was just what the doctor ordered for us to move up in style tomorrow. Everyone is feeling strong, well-rested, and ready to camp in beautiful Genet Basin tomorrow night. We'll hopefully be checking in from 14,000' tomorrow.
Hope all is well at home,
RMI Guide Maile Wade and crew
On The Map
I forgot the birthday wish was for Maile
Posted by: Ginny on 5/18/2012 at 4:44 pm
Wow! sounds like all is going well. What a great please to have your birthday on the 19th! so HAPPY BIRTHDAY my girl I love you tons be safe
xoxoxoxoxo Mom
Posted by: Ginny on 5/18/2012 at 4:42 pm
Well today we began our day a little earlier than usual. We elected to go for a little glacier tour this morning and with how hot its been during the day the cool temps felt nice. We went to the base of Annie's Ridge and had a little glaciology talk from a rad location. On the walk back we saw a big ice fall release on Mt. Foraker which was lovely, they are always impressive no matter how many times you see them.
We chilled out this afternoon hiding from the afternoon sun. We regrouped for a crevasse rescue station. Everyone is sending and building mechanical advantage systems to haul climbers skyward. We are also organizing our gear for a move tomorrow up towards Kahiltna Dome which sits at 12,525'. If the weather plays nice, hopefully we will be back in 4 days.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
On The Map
Hi all!
We are back at 11,000' camp after a successful and gorgeous carry to cache gear at 13,500 ft, just past Windy Corner. When we woke this morning it looked like Windy Corner might live up to it's name; banners of snow were flying high off the nearby peaks from a strong north wind. We had a great smoked salmon breakfast and dragged our feet in camp for a bit to see if the wind would die, and it played ball! The carry was warm and calm, and the group moved great, happy to be free of our sleds, and to have lighter loads.
The weather forecast is sounding stellar for the next handful of days. We're going to make a game time decision tomorrow morning whether to move to the 14,000' camp or stay one more day at 11,000'. We'll let you know!
That's all for now; we're going to crawl into our warm down bags and get some shut eye.
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and the crew
On The Map
Sounds like a great time! Please give my best to Nick.
Pam
Posted by: Pam on 5/17/2012 at 7:35 pm
Keep going.
Posted by: Richard Coleman on 5/17/2012 at 7:06 pm
Well hello all.
Last week temperatures were frigid. I am happy to say today was downright balmy. We'll take it.
We spent our entire day today going over some critical information. Laying the ground work for crevasse rescue. A lot of information was downloaded and everyone seemed to grasp the concepts. Knots, anchors, rappelling into a crevasse, self extrication from a crevasse were some of our topics on this beautiful day.
Kahiltna Base Camp is getting busier by the day. More and more climbers are showing up to head up Denali, other friends are finding success on various routes on the Mini Moon Flower and the North Buttress of Mt Hunter with this current stretch of superb weather.
Word on the street is temperatures are about to get really hot the next few days. We will let you know how that plays out.
Everyone is doing great and says hello.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
On The Map
Hi Eric-
See you in a couple of weeks!
Posted by: Larry Seaton on 5/17/2012 at 10:38 pm
Hello from the Alaska Range,
We departed Talkeetna this afternoon and the flight onto the glacier was spectacular, no one was disappointed. We quickly set up our camp on the SE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and are beginning to adjust to glacier living. The weather is splendid.
We are looking forward to beginning our training tomorrow and will let you know how it goes.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
On The Map
Watching Blaine go to the top…...
Posted by: lee on 5/17/2012 at 12:13 pm
Rich, Amazing pictures, looking forward to more. I wish I was up there with you, but I am enjoying watching the progree from my couch! Stay safe and make every day epic!
Posted by: Erik on 5/16/2012 at 4:56 pm
We had a great day yesterday, and moved our camp up to 11,200'. The weather was perfect for climbing, and we made swift progress up the Kahiltna Glacier towards Kahiltna Pass. We arrived in camp and spent a few hours establishing our camp, as we will be staying here for a few nights. With all of our gear moved in to the 11,200' camp, we are in a great position, and we will spend the day resting and acclimating. We are planning to carry a cache of supplies up to Windy Corner (13,600') tomorrow, so we're looking forward to a lazy day today. The weather looks great the next few days, and our team is feeling strong. We're right on schedule as we start staging on to the upper mountain.
We'll be in touch again soon.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Happy Belated Birthday Carl! We all hope you’re having lots of fun. Hope it’s not too cold.
Posted by: Crystal on 5/17/2012 at 8:50 am
Bernie, don’t slow the team down. Steak & Lobs part II waiting for you when you get back to NYC.
Posted by: Tom Hogan on 5/17/2012 at 8:49 am
Our time in the Alaska Range finished wrapped up just a couple of days ago. We had an extra 2 bonus days in the mountains. Our fly off date was set, but the weather determines our true fly off date. The snow began to fall the night before our scheduled departure date, it kept snowing for the following 2 days. Veteran climbers stated that this had been one of the biggest snowstorms, at Base Camp, that they could remember in the past
7 years. Over 3 ft of snow fell in a little more than a 36 hr period. We woke up on Saturday morning to crystal clear skies, soon the planes began to fill the skies. Everyone at base camp looking for a flight out spent the previous evening stomping out the run way for the planes. Still, when the planes landed it was obvious how deep the snow was for the planes. I think the pilots were getting faceshots, as the snow was hitting the windshields of the planes. We all arrived back in Talkeetna in the early afternoon, on Saturday.
The week consisted of lots of information being uploaded and downloaded to a very enthusiastic group of climbers. Us guides were very impressed with how much information this group of climbers soaked up. Topics covered a wide variety of mountain tactics, how to simply live comfortably in an environment that was cold and snowy, how to set up a camp, crevasse rescue, snow and ice anchors, climber responsibilities, avalanches and rescue, ice climbing and the list continues.
Everyone had a great time experiencing the Alaska range. Ideas have already been hatched for future trips to visit Little Switzerland, the Ruth Gorge or other objectives around the base camp area, from members of this group. Climbing around the Kahiltna base camp area offers a great experience for your first time to Alaska. Hopefully we will see you up here soon.
Everyone is on their way home now but memories will last a long time of this very special place.
Thanks again from Jason, Andres, Anne Gilbert and RMI
Posted by: Mike Walter, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 9,600'
This morning we awoke to our first views of the Alaska Range. After sitting out the storm in Talkeetna and flying on with clouds still in the area, we were pleasantly surprised with a beautiful sunny day. Our first big hill of the trip greeted us right out of camp, but even with this challenge we moved well up to camp at 9,500'. The Kahiltna Glacier is in great shape which made our travels nice and fluid. Base camp received 3 feet of snow while we sat in Talkeetna, but this just made for great navigating and smooth sailing for us. As we moved into the steeps of Ski Hill, there was a perfect trough to keep our sleds in line and upright. With our first challenges behind us, we rolled into camp around 5:00 and made a yummy birthday dinner for Carl...61 today!! Now, we're resting up for another big push tomorrow to 11,000' camp. Happy Mother's Day to all of our moms! Goodnight.
RMI Guides Mike Walter, Pete Van Deventer & Maile Wade
On The Map
Team, We wish you GREAT LUCK on McKinley. Be safe. Sara and Bill McGahan
Posted by: Bil McGahan on 5/17/2012 at 3:40 pm
happy birthday carl & best wishes for great weather.
summit on!
Posted by: lars on 5/14/2012 at 6:37 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Mike Walter
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'
Hey all! Our previous two day's waiting game turned to hustle and bustle yesterday as the skies opened and allowed the planes to fly. Our flights left right after breakfast, and we landed at basecamp, resplendent with a new layer of snow. It's still early in the season, and basecamp was quiet, with just a handful of climbers waiting to fly off, or start their climb uphill.
After a couple hours spent packing, rigging sleds, and digging our cache, we were on our way, dropping down the SE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier to begin our ascent up the main fork. The skies quickly closed and it began to snow, obscuring the views and dropping the temperature significantly. We made camp in light snow last night, but this AM woke to sun and clear skies! The plan is to make a move to our next camp at 9,600' today.
Happy birthday to team member Carl Devendorf, and everyone would like to wish their moms a Happy Mother's Day!
We'll be in touch soon.
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and the gang
On The Map
Mike M….Following your progress…...and rooting for you!! Wishing you clear skies, good weather and the most magnificant views!!
Posted by: Annette on 5/14/2012 at 11:55 am
Go Mike! Have a great climb. I saw the mountain this morning in the sun on my way to work. Looks awesome. Stay safe.
Posted by: Jeff on 5/14/2012 at 10:06 am
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Hi Brandi and Elizabeth its time to put all that prep to work. I’m sure that there is a lot of hard work ahead but remember to take some time to enjoy it all along the way.
Miss you Poo. -Chris
Posted by: Chris on 5/19/2012 at 10:32 am
Hi Gilbert-
Plow that road for me! We’ll cross paths in a couple of weeks. Looking forward to seeing you again (do you still have that boyfriend?)
Posted by: Larry Seaton on 5/18/2012 at 9:29 pm
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