Entries from Aconcagua
Billy here, checking in from Camp 2 at over 18,000' on Aconcagua! The rumored winds did indeed materialize today but they also came with perfectly clear skies and were thus not enough of a hindrance to keep us stuck at Camp 1. Our team looked awesome on our move today with everybody moving well and climbing strong despite the elevation, big loads, and the gusting breeze. We've set up shop here at Chopper Camp (although nobody seems to call it that since they cleaned up all the wreckage that used to be strewn about camp) and are enjoying a sunny afternoon. Today's move only took 2 hours and 45 minutes, which speaks for this team's strength and bodes well for summit day.
More as it develops... Wulpseeya!
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
Here for I am to be writing from resting day the third in Camp 1. But seriously, we are resting comfortably here at Camp 1 passing the time jamming Talking Heads, reading, and drinking maté. Most of us are actively working to keep the altitude and tent time from scrambling our brains. The team is understandably a bit restless hanging out with such good weather but managing nonetheless. Rumor has it that there may be a bit of wind tomorrow but nothing that should shut us down on our planned move to Camp 2. As we head higher and higher the reality of a summit bid is getting closer and closer. More to report after we push camp uphill to Camp 2 tomorrow!
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Go Gail Go! Aloha The Cori(ey)‘s
Posted by: Cori F on 2/12/2013 at 2:22 pm
More sun today with light winds and nearly perfect temperatures made for a great carry up to Camp 2. Our group is starting to work like that proverbial well-oiled machine with solid efforts the last couple days moving and pushing carries up the mountain. Our foray took us above 18,000' which was an altitude record for many and certainly the highest anybody in the group had carried a heavy load. We enjoyed a "picnic" with beautiful new views up at Camp 2 while we built up our cache of food and fuel in a nook among the rocks. And after hanging for an hour or so we made short work of our descent back to Camp 1. All in all we were on the go for only 3.5 hours and about 4.5 hours round trip. The team is feeling strong, motivated, and ready for the hard work ahead!
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
Your love, liftin’ me higher
Than I’ve ever been lifted before
So keep it up, quench my desire
And I’ll be at your side forevermore
Sounds like things are going great! Everyone back home is rooting for you all! Keep it up!
Sarah Hammond
Posted by: Sarah Hammond on 2/13/2013 at 8:32 am
We woke again today to completely clear and beautiful skies, and seemingly perfect weather for our move out of basecamp and up on the mountain. The gang packed up quickly and were ready to march in short order. Anticipation has been building for a long time and everyone was ready to get the show on the road. We moved well and enjoyed a nice breeze that actually helped temper the heat of the sun. After about 4 1/2 hours of climbing we were setting up tents on the upper bench of Camp 1 (16,700') and heading down for a super short back carry to retrieve our cache. As we were getting settled the wind was coming in and out and eventually it started snowing. The whole camp and surrounding cliffs got a beautiful dusting of 2 or 3 inches of snow. The squall eventually died down and I'm hoping for a calm rest of the evening...
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
We're spending today resting and acclimatizing at Plaza Argentina under a beautiful sunny sky. We slept in, ate some bacon, egg, and cheese breakfast burritos, drank maté, and are hanging out. This will be our last night here at basecamp before we head up on the mountain. The weather (as far as we've heard, anyway) is supposed to hold and should make for a nice move up to Camp 1 tomorrow.
We'll check in tomorrow night and let you know how it went...
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
What a spectacular journey! Enjoy your climb and be safe! Love and prayers to Rei and the entire team!
From Taipei,
Grace and Eric
Posted by: Grace and Eric on 2/11/2013 at 8:51 am
Good luck all… wishing you good weather and a safe climb! And to Ryan Waters… very proud of you for daring to DO, instead of merely dreaming it. Climb on!
Posted by: Todd Waters on 2/10/2013 at 5:57 pm
Today's weather report: not so good. We woke up this morning here at Plaza Argentina in a cloud with it steadily dropping gloppy snow. The prospect of a successful carry up to Camp 1 was looking dismal but we decided to get up and fire the stoves anyway. Over the course of breakfast and our morning coffee the weather began to improve and by 10 am we were looking at some continuing light precip but nothing that would hold us back. The team rallied, geared up, and hit the trail. With a six-hour round trip effort we were able to put in a sizable cache of food, fuel, and cold weather gear up at Camp 1 (16,200'). The team performed well despite unstable scree and our first real taste of carrying big loads at high altitude.
Ciao,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
A rest day! The gang has been hanging out most of the day today catching up on sleep, reading, and calories. Our first night in Aconcagua Basecamp wasn't the smoothest... Despite sleeping quite well most of us were feeling a little lethargic this morning from spending the night at nearly 14,000'. Regardless, spirits are high after moving around a bit and getting prepared for tomorrow's carry/cache up at Camp 1. The guides spent the morning packing group food and equipment and the team has been packing up their personal gear that they plan to cache. The weather has been a little funky but nothing terrible, hopefully tomorrow brings better or at least similar weather for our first foray onto the upper mountain...
Hasta mañana,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
Greetings from the chilly blizzard region of New Hampshire! Congratulations to all for reaching Base Camp! That’s excellent news and you all bring inspiration to those of us watching your adventure. Please pass on my “congrats” to Ken Young and a high-five! It’s dumping buckets of snow on us here in NH…hoping for clear weather on Aconcagua!
Posted by: Renee Ciulla on 2/8/2013 at 4:54 pm
Posted by: Leon Davis, Mike King, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
23,000 feet to the busy hustle bustle, and near 100 degree heat of Mendoza in three days. After two weeks of grinding our way higher and higher on Aconcagua, the end of the trip is always a blur. Summit day on this trip has to be the most memorable part, not just for the elation of standing on the roof of South America, but because of how perfect the whole day was. Dead calm conditions, clear skies, and warm temps had us on the summit wearing just a couple layers, and no gloves! After the cold temps, snow, and winds that we had on our way up, it was an amazing shift that made the whole day so enjoyable.
Since that day, we grabbed all of our gear and endured the five hour descent to base camp, to be greeted by a wonderful steak dinner. The next morning we donned small packs and light shoes, and followed the fourteen miles of mule trails to Pompe de Leñas, our first camp on the way in. It's always a long day, and our feet were tired when we arrived, but we were revived by a delicious asado, fresh tomato salad, and Malbec wine cooked for us by the muleteers. Everyone ate until they were stuffed, watched the stars come out, and shared stories. Wednesday morning we were up early, motivated to get to the road and all the comforts that follow. A four hour hike and a quick shuttle delivered us to Penitentes, and then a few hours in the bus had us back in Mendoza last night for another great Mendoza feast.
It has been a blast for the guides to climb with this group. Everyone gelled into a cohesive climbing team well, and took the team work aspect seriously. We have a couple of days now to relax in town, soak up some sun by the pool, and let beat up feet heal, before we start the long plane flights back! Thanks for all the comments and support on the blog.
Over and out,
RMI Guides Pete, Leon, Mike, and the whole climbing team
Congratulations to the team on your successful adventure! It’s great to imagine you all lazing by the pool in the sun with your feet propped up, reminiscing about all of those footsteps that took you to the top. Well done & Safe trips home!
Love,
Mom & Dad
Posted by: Paula & Bill VanDeventer on 2/7/2013 at 4:56 pm
Greetings from Plaza Argentina! After a very early rise and a FRIGID river crossing our team wound our way up through the Relinchos Valley (a side valley of the Vacas) and arrived at Basecamp. We moved well and made good time on our ascent, with everybody feeling strong on our first bit of sustained elevation gain. We arrived just ahead of a pretty decent squall that gave us a but of wind, hail, and rain but we made short work of setting up tents ahead of the worst of it. Later on we were served up some delicious steaks and a little bit of Cabernet for dinner by the Grajales Basecamp staff. We crashed out around 9 or so when the weather started to get a little squirrelly again and enjoyed a well deserved rest!
Adios from Plaza Argentina!
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
Posted by: Mike King, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
What a whirlwind! Yesterday we were standing at almost 23,000 feet, and this evening we're back at Aconcagua Base Camp. It's a big day descending all the way, and our loads just get bigger as we pick up food and gear cached at each camp. It makes it easier knowing that we're headed to a delicious steak dinner ( better than the way in even!). Tomorrow we're back to light loads, light shoes, and getting miles under our feet. Hopefully we see Billy and team along the way. We'll be in touch!
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer
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Your Dad and I wanted to say how proud we are of you. Everyone we brag to are in awe of you accomplishments.
Kisses and Hugs on Valentine’s Day (hee hee). Love and God’s Blessings to your group, Mom and Dad
Posted by: Kathleen on 2/14/2013 at 11:54 am
Just a walk in the park. Billy is making yall sound like a bunch of climbing badasses, no doubt it’s true. Congrats on making it to Camp 2.
Posted by: Nathaniel on 2/13/2013 at 4:58 pm
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