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It is apparent the two previous days of hauling full loads weighing more than a small horse has already made our team stronger. Yesterday we all felt a bit nackered but ten solid hours of sleep was most revitalizing. This morning the alarm went off at 6:00 am and we woke to clear skies and cold temps. The ever constant roar of our stoves means coffee is close providing the needed impetus to crawl out of warm bags and into cold boots. We then made a smooth carry to 11,000 feet, the sight of our next camp. With a full afternoon to rest, the team is now learning the invaluable skill of killing time. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

The Five Day Climb June 20 - 24 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at around 7:30 am this morning. After spending an hour on the summit enjoying their accomplishment, the teams started their descent back to Camp Muir. Once back at Camp Muir they will savor some much needed rest and enjoy a day of training on the upper mountain. After spending one more night at Camp Muir the teams will desend to Paradise and return to Rainier Basecamp in the afternoon tomorrow to celebrate their success.

Nice work team!

Our Mt. Baker - Easton Glacier Climb August 30 - 1 September led by RMI Guides Mike Bennett, Sam Marjerison and Bailey Servais reached the summit yesterday in beautiful conditions.  The team returned to camp an enjoyed some rest after their alpine start.  Today the team descended to the trailhead and completed their program.

Nice work team!

PC: Mike Bennett

Iliniza Norte summit!

Our team reached the summit of Iliniza Norte at 6 pm yesterday evening. It was a beautiful afternoon, so upon arrival at the hut we decided to just go for it. We were rewarded with a lovely sunset at the summit, one of the nicer ones most of us have ever seen.

Back at the hut, we sat down for a hot meal and although it was quite tasty, Emma and I spent some time forcing people to eat. A long few days of acclimatizing is catching up with everyone, but you have to eat! The main objective lies ahead.

We are now in route to Antisana Basecamp, where we will spend two nights and hopefully be standing on top of the fourth highest peak in Ecuador less than 48 hours from now!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

Snowy, cold and grey morning at Mt. Everest Basecamp. Which is not entirely a bad thing. In fact, we want it to keep snowing for a few days in order to change the dangerously icy conditions that exist up high on the mountain. Of course, snow down here at 17,500 ft. doesn't translate to snow up at 25,000 ft, but we can only hope. The consensus between guides and expedition leaders on the mountain is that we need some sort of change before we can responsibly send climbers and Sherpas onto the rock-strafed flanks of Lhotse again. This situation makes for a slightly tougher than normal mental game for Everest climbers. Normally, in this first week of May we'd be putting the finishing touches on our conditioning and acclimatization in preparation for the summit. And although we did what we could toward those goals on our last rotation up the hill, it wasn't much without a day or two on the Lhotse Face. But that could not be helped. Unfortunately, we saw, heard of, and dealt with several instances of other climbers getting slammed by rock. Such poor odds of success were not for us. So now we are resting at basecamp and we are in limbo. If the snow actually sticks to the blue ice of the Lhotse Face the chance of a rock blowing off the summit of the 4th highest mountain in the world and hurtling unimpeded down toward our fixed ropes would be greatly reduced and we'd be back in business. If that happens sooner, then we might even have a chance to go back up for a more thorough acclimatization rotation before the summit bid. If time drags on a bit before that snow sticks… we may be left with just a shot at the summit. And if time drags on for several weeks without the change we need… a decent shot at the top is in doubt. In our favor, the jet stream winds that were raking the mountain (and setting free thousands of precariously perched rocks up high) have eased. The word is that the jet is to the South of the mountain now and that relatively low winds are going to be with us… which normally allows for cloud formation and some daily snow. In our favor, there are still teams willing to risk the rockfall (and now snow sluffs) of the Lhotse Face and so we'll get daily reports as to conditions up high and perhaps the route will still get scratched in despite the hazards. We certainly wouldn't ask anyone to endure these conditions, but we aren't so proud and stubborn that we wouldn't take advantage of the good results of such labor when conditions turn favorable. It is hang loose time. Cards, books, movies, naps, meals, get-togethers with other climbers, walks out to "Icy Cyber" (the position ten minutes out in the glacier that gets 3G service), conversations about the weather, the icefall, the fixed ropes and the helicopters… incidentally, there are none today and it is quiet like back in the old days, thanks to the snow. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Jambo! Mark Tucker here calling from the Kikoti Camp, outside of the Tarangire National Park, Tanzania. We had a wonderful game drive today, many, many animals, lots of elephant, lots of leopards. I could go on and on and make you all so jealous. So we are having a real fun time at this beautiful property we are at here tonight. We will have coffee in the morning on our lanai. Then we will be making our way back to the Dik Dik Hotel for an evening flight tomorrow. If all works out we will be back in your neck of the woods sooner than later. We’ll drop you a note tomorrow. All the best, RMI Guide Mark Tucker

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guide Jack Delaney made a strong effort today, turning around at the top of Disappointment Cleaver due to high winds and a cloud cap over the summit.

The team is currently descending safely back to Camp Muir and will return to Rainier Basecamp in Ashford later this afternoon.

We’re proud of their resilience and smart decision-making in challenging conditions. Safety always comes first on the mountain! 

Hold onto your hats it's windy,

The wind started last night and persisted through the day. The frost in the tents showered down onto our sleeping bags as the tent made a crinkle noise. The snow that had fallen got picked up and tossed into the air creating a snow tornado. It looked magical in a way but our sleeping bags looked better. Its easy to hunker in the tents when outside isn't too pleasant. You can hear the wind up high. It sounds like a waterfall. Luckily at our camp it's only blowing in the 20mph range. As dinner wrapped up the wind and snow caused quite a scene. A scene not too fun to go to the bathroom in. All around the snow whips around. We all waited for a lull in the wind to hustle to our tents and the bathroom.  The discomfort is comical and creates some good laughs. If you can't find the funny in the misery than you are in the wrong place out here. Tomorrow is also suppose to be windy so we will hunker in again. We are optimistic that this weekend will be our move date to High Camp. For now, we lay in our tents listening to the snow pitter patter and the tent crinkle in the wind.

Mother nature calm yourself,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team

The RMI Mt. Baker Summit & Ski May 14 - 16 team led by RMI Guides JM Gorum and Alan Davis, reached the summit of Mt. Baker around 10:30 am this morning.  The team climbed well and was spending a bit of time on the summit.  Once things soften up a bit they will be making turns all the way backt to camp!

Congratulations to today's Mt. Baker climbers!

Greetings from our rest day here at Plaza Argentina. After a lazy morning lounging in our tents we convened in our weather port for a terrific brunch of bacon, eggs, and of course REAL coffee. Most of us felt a bit ragged from our first night at nearly 14,000' but after a solid meal everyone seems to have bounced back and they're all enjoying another beautiful day reading, playing cards, and the like. Leon and I are spending the afternoon drinking mate and packing up our supplies for tomorrow's carry up to Camp 1. Adios, RMI Guide Billy Nugent

On The Map