We survived the first night without a roof over our heads. Quite comfortably, by all accounts. There were no dogs barking in the night, no heavy boots clunking down wooden hallways to latrines, none of the endless coughing fits coming through the thin walls of trekking houses. Instead, we had easy breezes, the quiet rustle of comfy down sleeping bags and moonlight coming through our tent ceilings. Oh yeah, and occasionally the violent thunder of avalanches... but that didn't truly bother us. We know we've picked a safe place for basecamp far enough from the vertical walls of this enclosed valley.
The day has been spent sorting gear, talking over plans, napping, reading, eating and getting to know our Sherpa teammates. We've got great strength and experience in our Sherpa team, and we'll depend mightily on them during this trip. I'm not aware of any team attempting the mountain this season that won't be reliant on Sherpa help. Some may claim to be going with minimal support, but they will still be heavily dependent on the Sherpas who fix the route through the Khumbu Icefall, to say nothing of the route above. This is not to say that, of the many talented non-Nepalese climbers assembled here at the foot of the hill, none would be capable of climbing the mountain without Sherpa aid, but the simple fact is that such climbs are not attempted in this day and age on this route on this mountain.
There is often confusion among those not versed in Himalayan climbing as to who Sherpas are and what their various jobs may be. I'm often unnerved back home to hear people say, while hiking or working hard, that they'd sure like to have a Sherpa along to carry their pack or to do their digging. Such comments are usually made in jest and are probably for my benefit when folks know that I have spent time in Nepal and Tibet. Nevertheless, they tend to sell the real Sherpa people short.
Referring to someone as "Sherpa" is to say that they are from a tribe of mountain people in a specific region of Nepal. It is not a job designation. It doesn't simply mean "porter" and it definitely doesn't mean "servant." Early on, when the pioneering Himalayan expeditions were discovering the amazing work ethic common to the Sherpa culture, these men were trained as high-altitude load carriers. But almost from the start, there were plenty of individuals -notably Tenzing Norgay who excelled at the art of climbing, who eagerly grasped its strategies, and who exhibited just as much ambition to reach summits as any Westerner.
By this 2009 Everest season, one cannot correctly make more than a few broad generalizations about who the Sherpas are on this mountain. Many may still be farmers the rest of the year... many may still fulfill the simple yet essential role of high-altitude porter... but then there will also be a fair number of excellent mountain climbers with superior strength and skill on rock and ice who are being counted on to guide individuals and lead expeditions. Some will struggle with English, but will then surprise the heck out of you when they turn out to speak French, Korean and Japanese just fine. Some will never have been out of these valleys, but increasingly others will turn out to have traveled the world; to be putting their kids through college in Canada, India or the U.S., to be web-savvy, literate and politically astute.
Away from the Himalaya, the assertion is often made (by people who, I feel sure, mean to honor this group of climbers) that Sherpas are universally strong and across-the-board gifted with a physiology that makes high-altitude climbing a snap. True, many Sherpas have less trouble acclimatizing than those who visit these mountains from elsewhere, but it probably does Sherpas more honor to recognize their limitations than any perceived inherent advantages. They don't live on Mount Everest. The highest commonly inhabited villages are usually only around 12,000 ft to 14,000 ft in elevation. They don't have three lungs and two hearts... or any other crazy adaptation that makes climbing easy. The really humbling thing for me is to realize that my Sherpa partners are working just as hard as I am when we are clawing our way up some slope in difficult conditions with heavy packs. That climbing is difficult for them -not easy- and that they go out to do it anyway, day after day without whining, indeed while smiling and laughing. It isn't just what we see on the mountain either. For a bunch of days we walked through rough farmland where every single rock was neatly in place, where fields were endlessly being tended to, where houses were simple but always in good repair. The work ethic was obvious, uncommon and admirable.
Don't get me wrong. I'm not implying that the First Ascent team will be on holiday here. When the Sherpas we're partnering with cook and carry water and hack out tent platforms from the Lhotse Face and fix rope and get hard work done in dangerous conditions, sometimes we'll be right alongside them. And sometimes they'll be doing it while we rest or get other jobs done. And obviously the Sherpas won't be doing it for free. Money is a huge motivator in this part of the world, and expedition work turns out to produce some of the best opportunities in all of Nepal. But money doesn't adequately explain the smiles and the warmth and the friendship that our Sherpa partners will share with us on this trip. We'll try to be worthy of that friendship.
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Joe Hoch reached the 14,410' summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Joe Hoch reported a beautiful day of climbing with 20 mph breeze from the southwest. The team is on the descent making their way back to Camp Muir.
Today we gave it all we could. The forecast was for less than 15mph winds and party sunny...well that wasn't exactly what we got. Camp was windy from the start. The sun was out but so was the wind. But today was our last shot so we left camp. It was a slow start behind a bunch of teams on the Autobahn but we made it to Denali Pass. The first stretch of the day is a real butt kicker. Clouds began to roam above Denali but conditions were still good. As the day progressed so did the clouds. By late afternoon we were in a cloud and the winds had picked up. We pushed as far as we could until it didn't make sense to keep going. 19,500' was our high point. Pushing past there with the conditions we had would be a risk. As the saying goes the mountains will be there for another try. They are much more robust than we are. The team made good, safe work making it back to camp. It would have been nice to arrive to a quiet camp but it is rather windy here. It will be a rowdy night in the winds but tomorrow we will skiddattle out of here to the land of more oxygen.
Gutted for you but great effort and staying power to stick it out as long as you have. Devin & Dustin it was great to see you when we were on our way down (I was with Mike King’s group). Here’s to a safe descent and lots of beers!!
Posted by: Huw Rothwell on 7/1/2021 at 4:07 pm
Really an impressive achievement and I’m so happy and so proud of you all for going after this exciting adventure!
I admire your patience & tenacity Byron! We all love living your adventures!
Mom & Dad
This morning we awoke to mostly clear skies, calm winds,and great climbing temps. Bagels and bacon filled our tanks for an early breakfast. We loaded our packs with our camp and started the 3,000 foot climb back to our cache at 14,000'. The team climbed in better style than ever, cutting 15 minutes off our previous time to the 14,000' Advanced Base Camp (ABC). The guides have some very tasty food in store for the next few meals as we rest, rehydrate, acclimate, and create tighter bonds with our new climbing partners.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
Good breakfast good team and good guide, and your faith is an importand tool to get higher safely.
We are proud of you, go team go.
Thank you for the reports Tyler.God bless.
Posted by: voula likourgiotis on 6/7/2012 at 3:19 pm
Dubai, Doha, Hong Kong, Bangkok - flights landed at Kathmandu from across the world as RMI's Everest Base Camp Trek and Island Peak team arrived today. With the crossing of the International Date Line travel to Nepal from the U.S. typically takes three days. Plunging into the melee of Kathmandu's streets after days spent in planes and airport waiting areas is a shock to the senses. Holy men and sacred cows wandered amidst the idling cars next to Pashputinath Temple, a sacred Hindu Temple and the traditional cremation site of the Nepalese Royal Family that sits next to the airport. Further on we navigated between the bicycle fruit vendors selling bundles of bananas along the streets and into the narrow roads near Kathmandu's center, at last reaching the Yak and Yeti, our hotel tucked off of Durbar Marg - Kathmandu's busy commercial strip.
By late afternoon everyone arrived and the remainder of the day was spent resting from the days of travel. It was an amazingly clear day in Kathmandu, with occasional views to the 17,000' snow capped peaks just outside of the city. With the sun setting on the hills that ring Kathmandu, we gathered for dinner here at the Yak and Yeti, at last sitting down as a team. Sharing a few Everest beers, we caught up on our various past climbing pursuits and hopes for our upcoming adventures in the Khumbu. We are excited to explore Kathmandu before we depart for the Khumbu.
After a morning spent reviewing our trip logistics and discussing the equipment needed for our adventures, we will head out and see several of Kathmandu's most well known sites in the afternoon, visiting the former Newari Royal Palaces as well as several well known Budhhist Stupas in the city.
- RMI Guide Linden Mallory
wow, i am so excited for all of you…look at my handsome nephew…mark!!!
you all take care and enjoy every moment of your lives…life for the now.
auntie car car
Posted by: carla henrie on 3/23/2011 at 10:47 am
Dear Dave Hahn
My name is Filip and I am 13 years old, I chose you as my hero for my project at school. Only one other person knew who you are, so I had to tell them all about you, and what you do. I just wanted to let you know that I really hope you make it to the top again and if not that’s ok. As my mom says there is always a next time. My mom promised me that she will take me with her to climb Rainier next year when i turn 14 and I hope to meet you there. I will be checking on this blog how you are doing I told my class. I hope you will stay healthy, happy and have a lot of good luck all the way around!
Filip
Posted by: Filip Atsidacos on 3/23/2011 at 7:45 am
The Torres del Paine trek team arrived over the last two days in Punta Arenas. Flying this far south requires a lot of plane, airport & layover time. We got an early start for our boat trip to Magdalena Island where a colony of magallenic penguins live.One and a half hours out the Straights of Magellan (if you haven't figured out that he's kind of a big deal down here) where the currents of the Atlantic & Pacific oceans collide resides a lot of penquinos. An hour loop got everyone a full dose of penguins, gulls & skuas. The baby penguins that hatched in November are big and still have trace amounts of their fuzzy down.
We'll transfer to Puerto Natales this afternoon and get our gear check done. A quick meeting with our Chilean partners will get everyone ready to begin our trek of the "O" & "W" circuit of Torres del Paine National Park.
So far the weather has been nice, seas calm and winds low. We are eager to start walking towards Seron camp in the morning.
We had great weather today and the team climbed strong, moving our camp up to 14,200'. We are now well established on the upper mountain as we continue to acclimate. Tomorrow we will make a quick trip back to Windy Corner to retrieve the cache of supplies that we carried up there two days ago.
We recently spoke via radio with RMI Guide Jake Beren and their team as they were descending the summit ridge after a successful summit. Congratulations to the team! We look forward to seeing them tomorrow when they descend from high camp.
That's it for now. Time for some shuteye.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Mike Walter
All the best. It is fantastic that you are now on the high part of the mountain. We are looking at the magnificent pictures on the website. It must be an incredible experience to be at that altitude getting close to the top of the world. We look forward to the stories. Keep safe.
Love Dad, Mom, Brooklyn and Spencer
Posted by: charles selby on 6/22/2012 at 7:22 am
Best wishes from Colorado. Kobi is loving life here in Cdale with his buddy Bayou!
Posted by: Wesley Reynolds on 6/22/2012 at 5:46 am
Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by JJ Justman and Billy Nugent turned today at the top of Disappointment Cleaver due to difficult conditions. The weather continues to be winter like on the upper mountain and is slowly transitioning into summer. High winds and firm conditions have thwarted attempts and guides are working hard to establish a safe route.
We are expecting Mt. Rainier to release its winter hold on the upper mountain any day now.
Great job, Mark and team! You guys are unstoppable!
Posted by: barry on 6/16/2012 at 6:40 am
Kristen!
We are oh so proud of you, here back at Hanover High School! It’s graduation week and we’re missing you terribly but so happy that you have completed your journey!
We love you and are thinking of you constantly!
Can’t wait for you to get home!
Love,
Asie
Hello,
Our team arrived yesterday to Aconcagua Base Camp at 14,000' after three nice days on the trail.
We spent today resting and acclimating for the upper mountain. After a delicious breakfast we checked in with the Basecamp Medical Staff and received a clean bill of health all the way around (everybody looks like rock stars).
During the afternoon we worked on sorting the gear that we are going to carry to Camp 1 tomorrow. The weather was marvelous until 4 pm and since then it has been cloudy with a little bit of snow.
The team wants to wish a very Happy Birthday to Chad Johnson!
Cheers,
RMI Aconcagua Team
Hey everyone,
It's Tyler and team on the summit of Denali. Pretty nice weather, little bit of breeze and quite a cold day. Everybody is in good shape. We are going to spend a few minutes on top taking some pictures and then we will be headed back down to high camp and we'll let you know when we get back.
Thanks for all your support. Talk to you soon.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
RMI Guide Tyler Jones calls from the summit of Denali.
Gutted for you but great effort and staying power to stick it out as long as you have. Devin & Dustin it was great to see you when we were on our way down (I was with Mike King’s group). Here’s to a safe descent and lots of beers!!
Posted by: Huw Rothwell on 7/1/2021 at 4:07 pm
Really an impressive achievement and I’m so happy and so proud of you all for going after this exciting adventure!
I admire your patience & tenacity Byron! We all love living your adventures!
Mom & Dad
Posted by: Judy & Dale on 6/30/2021 at 1:29 pm
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