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Hello once again. We went out to play today in the Alaska range. Our objective was Mt Frances which sits just north of the base camp. We are camping at 7,200 ft, Mt Frances sits at 10,450 ft. We left camp at 8 am in the cold morning air, the sun was just coming around the south buttress of Denali to touch the north buttress of Mt Hunter. Our climbing involved a glacier approach via what some people refer to as rackets or otherwise snowshoes. We then transitioned into our crampons and went climbing up a super fun 1,200 ft chute. We climbed up steep snow surrounded by beautiful Alaskan granite and pitched things out a few times, where we gained the East ridge. The views from the ridge and summit offered glimpses of some amazing features in the range. Masioli's tower sticks out in plain site as does the south face of Denali. Our problem today was that the views quickly disappeared. Some weather came in and it began to snow. We began our descent and five rappels later we were back on the glacier. Everyone did great and had a super fun time. The plan is to fly off tomorrow back into Talkeetna. A very successful trip up here in Alaska. RMI Guide Jason Thompson

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Taylor Bickford reached the top of Mt. Rainier early today. The teams climbed above the clouds and were greeted with clear skies on the summit! 

The team is in route to Camp Muir. Once there they will pack up their gear and descend to Paradise and then back to RMI Basecamp to celebrate.

Congratulations to today's team! 

On to the roofs of the world!!!! This morning we set our sights to the summit of Shishapangma. Spent the morning packing bags and double checking our equipment. #allthewayup. After 26 days of preparation, we're ready to launch our summit attempt. Excited to reach new heights and goals. Weather forecast says we're set for the 1st. Ramen will toughen us up! We feel strong with the force, and confident on the climb to come. We thank you all for the blog comments, which strengthen our spirits. *This blog was written around the breakfast table, one sentence per member. May the force be with us!!!! The RMI Shishapangma team

Tent life continues. Zippers make my doors, frost wakes me in the morning as it rains down when I move about in my little constricted space. No complaints here, just a bit of longing for those creature comforts I appreciate for at least a week when I return home, till I once again settle in on expecting those niceties to be at my beck and call. We have been getting some snow showers, so don't forget to shake the toilet tent before entering or there is a good chance of getting a pile and I mean pile of snow down the back of your coat prior to entry. Definitely avoid this scenario, take my word that those three or so minutes of melt freeze down the back is no fun. Thank goodness for all the miracle fabrics from First Ascent, rest assured warmth is just around the corner.We have the cush life here at base camp compared to trips like Denali or what is soon to come for the team on the upper mountain here at Everest. The team went for a nice hike to Kala Patar today. A nearby ridge hike with beautiful views of the upper part of Everest. We are too near the base to see the upper mountain form here. Lam Babu and Pasang made a trip up to Camp 2 to check in on how things are holding up. Last thing you want is a big surprise when you arrive at an upper camp on a move day. He reports everything is in good shape. Sounds like there will be a push toward Camp 4 and the South Col tomorrow. A strong team will put the needed ropes in place to allow for safe travels to the final camp before the summit push. We will have a meeting with Lam Babu tomorrow and will go over the whats and whens to keep this expedition moving forward. Not yet the summit push but we are getting closer everyday. These rest days and upper mountain tactics have proven effective in the past. As the route gets better and the weather continues to improve so do our attitudes.The excitement of the summit is helping carry the minds and bodies of this terrific group of climbers onward and upward. All's well at Everest Base Camp, RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

A weak low pressure system over the mountain has brought an increase in clouds today, but it's still pretty pleasant at Camp 4. More significant than the clouds, is a high pressure system to our east that has increased the winds up high. Today it looks like it is blowing in the 35 mph range at high camp, and winds are forecasted to increase to 70 mph in the next few days. So for now, we're still on standby, hoping the winds dissipate quickly so we can move up high soon. The team is in good spirits and eager to climb. Camp 4 is a good place to be waiting, as we have a very comfortable camp and we're acclimating and getting stronger each day we spend here at 14,200'. We'll keep you updated with our status and the weather outlook. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Success! That's right we did it even despite the adverse conditions we have been experiencing. The weather has been less than desirable. However when we woke this morning we were greeted with beautifully clear skies. After a quick breakfast, we walked out into a calm Ecuadorian sky that spanned from the Big Dipper to the Southern Cross, one of the few places on earth you can see both. Our climb started up a rocky buttress before transitioning onto the glacier, and we enjoyed the warm night after our last few days in the snow and rain. The climb went rather smoothly and we reached the cumbre, or summit in English, just after 8 this morning. The climb took just over seven hours to reach the top with mostly low angle snow climbing and a few steep pitches to keep us on our toes. Though we walked for some of the morning in a cloud, the weather cleared just briefly as we crested the summit, allowing us views of the Avenue of Volcanoes that spans Ecuador. We could even see the Amazon!! Currently we are rejuvenating here in La Casa Sol just outside Otavalo. Everyone is in good spirits and looking forward to resting. Missing all of our families and most of our friends. Hasta manana! RMI Guide Casey Grom

It snowed continuously through the night and all day. Finally, at six in the evening, it stopped, and we could see a bit more than a hundred feet in any direction. There was never a possibility of climbing today, so we made the best of a storm/rest day by enjoying a slow, leisurely breakfast in our dining tent. Afterward, we dug out the camp, took naps, and read books.

We managed to squeeze in a little training for the “fixed ropes” we hope to climb next. We practiced as the last snow fell and the clouds began to clear. That put us in a good position to witness the event of the day—a big avalanche roaring out of the Messner Couloir on the South Peak. We knew we weren’t in any danger from that particular couloir, but it was still sobering to be engulfed by the powder cloud thrown up by the slide. We’d heard several avalanches over the past 24 hours, but it was thrilling to actually watch one.

As we ate dinner, the clouds continued to melt away, and it was wonderful to be in actual sunshine again. Many of us found it hard to take our eyes off the mountain and all the fresh scars from sliding snow. We hope to climb the West Buttress in the morning, but that will depend on whether the new snow has had enough time to settle.

— RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

Wednesday, May 17, 2023 - 11:46 pm PT

We woke up to an early call from K2 that said chances looked good to fly, so after a quick cup of coffee we rushed over to the hangar. After a few hours of hurry up and waiting, we were able to get out on a flight and land on the Kahiltna glacier in beautiful conditions. We unloaded all the group gear, organized everything for moving, and made our way to our first camp for the night. After six long hours, we finally pulled into the base of Ski Hill. Set up camp, and made a quick dinner of Mac and cheese under the clear skies. We are set up to carry tomorrow, but might sleep in a little bit first.

Check in tomorrow,

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams Led by RMI Guides Mike Haugen and Gabriel Barral reached the top of Mt. Rainier today. The teams reported light winds, and favorable weather. The teams were able to spend some time on the summit and are now en route to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's teams!

We spent the night listening to a wind play through high camp. It wasn't a strong wind, but it was persistent and if anybody got out of the tent to feel it, it was a cold wind. It had eased considerably by morning and so there was hope that our Christmas gift from the universe would be a nice calm summit day. But no. One look at the summits of surrounding peaks (we can't see Vinson summit from high camp) revealed wind driven and sleekly sculpted cloud caps on everything. It could not be a summit day, but it turned out to be a pretty great holiday. We took it very easy and slow; resting, reading, taking pictures, eating and drinking. No parades, no football, no turkey and no tree. But also no complaints. The weather (in camp and up high) got quite nice as the day went on. We each took walks a couple hundred feet to the west to peer over the edge... a thousand meters straight down to Low Camp, and to see where Vinson Basecamp might be hiding under a carpet of low cloud, and to gaze out at the endless ice cap. We have high hopes for tomorrow. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map