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Alaska: Elias & Team Successfully Climb Moose’s Tooth

And we flew out! We got in a day early, and flew out a day early too, as to secure our exit off the glacier with the great weather we had: the runway at the Root Canal Glacier is no major airport where to secure a flight under the action of the elements. The trip ran very smoothly, and we're happy to have tackled this ultra classic line, "Ham and Eggs" up the Moose's Tooth, which is without a doubt, a haunting peak in the Alaska Range. Vanessa and Taylor trained the necessary technical skills not only to overcome the difficulties of the route, but to shine for the hours on end that climbing 3,000ft of steep ice, snow and mixed terrain entails in the remoteness of this environment. Now the team has parted ways, and we feel proud and accomplished. Regards from Anchorage! RMI Guide Elías de Andrés Martos
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Ecuador Volcanoes: Nugent & Team Hike the Rucu Pichincha

Another great day here (barely) south of the equator! We woke up this morning to slightly overcast skies that made me wonder if we were going to see anything at all today on our first acclimatization hike. Nevertheless, the team hopped a few taxis in front of the hotel and headed over to the Teleférico. A short gondola ride deposited us at an elevation just shy of 13,000'. Despite the cloud cover above we enjoyed clear and sweeping views of the metropolis below and even some occasional sun breaks came through to heat us up very quickly as we hiked along. After a little over three hours of hiking and a fun rock scramble we found ourselves standing on the summit of Rucu Pichincha! At an elevation above 15,000' many personal altitude records were broken today. We took some photos, hung out a bit hoping the cloud would dissipate for a split second (no luck), and began our sandy descent. After a mildly adventurous ride back to the hotel the gang has been chilling out while Katie and I did a little grocery shopping. Another team dinner tonight should commemorate our last evening in Quito before we head for the hills. Talk tomorrow... RMI Guide Billy Nugent
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Denal Expedition: VanDeventer and Team Cache Gear ready to Move to 14,000’ Camp

Thursday, May 18, 2023 8:12 pm PDT

Finally, we got to stretch our legs today!

We woke to beautiful conditions in camp, the first time we haven't woken to the tents flapping and slapping. We smashed an oatmeal breakfast and coffee and grabbed backpacks, sleds, and snowshoes and beat feet back to our hole in the snow that held all our best food and treats. We made quick work of the day, three hours round trip, and came back to sunny camp, warm tents, and dry sleeping bags. It was also our last day hauling sleds until we descended for good. So, when we walked into camp there was much rejoicing.

Tomorrow we plan to carry another cache up high to Windy Corner or 14 Camp depending. That will set us up to be ready to make a big move to 14!

RMI Guides Pete, Henry, Tatum and Team

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Let’s go team!  I have a hard time thinking about Brian being stuck inside a tent for days and nights. Hope he has a tent mate that likes to play cards!  Moving and climbing are much more fun.  Miss you hubby!  Jack and I are following along and wishing you well while Lou meditates silently onn your climb.

Posted by: Tory Goltry on 5/20/2023 at 8:15 am

Wonderful to hear…“sunny camp, warm tents, and dry sleeping bags” - the simple pleasures of life on a mountain.

Praying for you all, and have a special place in my heart for my niece Bailey. She is an inspiration to her friends and family.

Posted by: Uncle C on 5/20/2023 at 7:33 am


Ruth Glacier Seminar: Delaney & Team Signing Off

Alaska certainly had a theme for the team this year and it was snow. We did not awake to clear skies, but instead 4 inches of fresh snow and more coming down! Our hopes were dashed for a flight off the glacier first thing in the morning. The team spirits remained high as we spent the day talking about life and the fragility of horses all while devouring any and all bacon that was left. Eventually the skies got a little lighter, then a little blue even and before we knew it - it was a beautiful sunny afternoon in the Alaska Range. After another few hours of hurry up and wait, a big red Otter buzzed into our life to whisk us back to civilization. Out of mountain boots, into showers and one final meal at Denali Brewing and our trip is complete. It was a great trip, with far more fun and stories than fit in this blog, until next time...

RMI Guides Jack Delaney, Mike Bennett and The Team

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Everest Base Camp Trek: Team Enjoys Great Views and Explores Everest Base Camp

Namaste from Gorak Shep. Happy to post that the team's objective of taking time lapse pictures of the Milky Way spinning over and around the tallest mountain of the world has been accomplished! Despite the frigid cold and with permission from the ever watching sentinels of Pumori and Nupse, we biouvaked last night at 5,400m on the side hills of Kala Patar. Looking right at the summit pyramid of Everest, we had the clearest evening one can imagine; a crisp sky would merge without interruptions with the sharp, silky white silhouette of the mountain ridges while being lit by a perfect moon. Half way through the night, we'd experience once more why we westerners owe so much to the local people of the himalaya; our Sherpa Nawang would meet us bring up a 2l thermos of tea as we were experiencing the frost accumulating over our sleeping bags and camera equipment. Today, with the memories of an spectacular night, we payed a visit to the Khumbu Glacier's morraine where the Base Camp for Everest is set during the climbing season. We are now enjoying dinner at our lodge, with our minds set in our descent that starts tomorrow. Our first stop will be Dingboche to enjoy again astonishing views of the N. Face of Ama Dablam. More updates to come in a couple of days from the thicker air villages of the Khumbu. RMI Guide Elías de Andrés

On The Map

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Mt. Rainier: Muir Seminar Starts Their Week at Rainier Basecamp

RMI Guides Casey Grom and Adam Knoff are leading our first Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir of the 2013 season. Today they are spending the day at Rainier Basecamp preparing for their next five days on Mt. Rainier. Team introductions, gear organizing, and technical training is on their agenda. While the team was testing out their boots on a hike from Basecamp, they ran into Lou Whittaker, the man who started RMI 44 years ago! Some stories were told and photos were taken, then it was back to training. The team is anxious to head up on the mountain tomorrow!
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Take it all in.  Savor each moment.  Fill your senses with the beautiful creation.  Enjoy your climb, enjoy each other, enjoy the views.

Posted by: Craig and Marilyn Miller on 5/21/2013 at 9:22 am

Just saw the pictures!  How awesome Jared!!

Posted by: Kris Reene on 5/20/2013 at 4:52 pm


Mexico Volcanoes: Waterfall & Team In Puebla after Successful Ixta Summit

Hi from Puebla! It's just after 11 p.m. and we just got back from dinner. It was a long and great day. We woke up this morning before 2 a.m. and started climbing just after 3. The night was cool and crisp but windless which was really great for us. Everyone on the team was very motivated to climb and we made good progress up to the top of the Ayoloco Glacier. From there the good weather continued and just over 4 hours after starting we were standing on top of Ixta. It was a beautiful day for climbing. The walk down went very smooth. We had a light breeze on the lower mountain (that's the big weather story for us so far!) and when we got to the trail head we were greeted with tortas, cervesas and refrescos. Now we're all set up for a rest day in Puebla tomorrow. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
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Mt. Rainier: Winter Expedition Skills Seminar at Camp Muir

Hi from Camp Muir. After a long day on the Muir Snowfield yesterday we awoke to clear skies and light winds. We are taking full advantage of the beautiful conditions by practicing our cramponing, ice axe technique and self arrest skills. This afternoon we plan on breaking out the ropes and practicing glacier travel and pitched climbing techniques. We're hoping the weather holds for the rest of the week! RMI Guide Seth Waterfall and the Winter Skills Seminar crew.
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Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak: Climbing Kala Patar

Hey RMI this is Linden Mallory calling from the Everest Base Camp Trek and Island Peak Team. I am calling from Gorak Shep up here at about 17,000’ along the edges of the Khumbu Glacier. This is the last town before we reach Basecamp tomorrow. It’s an absolutely gorgeous night here in the Himalaya. We had a wonderful day today we left Lobuche early this morning and walked up the valley crossing over the Tonkhu Glacier which is a little tributary glacier from the main Khumbu Glacier. We arrived into Gorak Shep about mid morning. Our main objective for the day was a climb of Kala Patar. It’s across the valley from Everest about 18,500’. After arriving in Gorak Shep we grabbed some tea, filled our water bottles and set off. The team climbed phenomenally well. It was really quite impressive. All the time we spent acclimatizing certainly paid off in spades. We got up to Kala Patar by mid day and we just had incredible views across the valley of Everest. We could see the summit, Hillary Step, the south summit, all the way down to the South Col. Looking down on the upper portion of the Lhotse face. We could also see over to Lolok Pass over to Xingatzi which is sitting in Tibet. It was pretty neat to be able to see over the boarder. We could also see down the valley toward Ama Dablam and the peaks that we walked by the first few days of our trek. So after hanging out up there for a little bit we motored back down to our tea house here in Gorak Shep and spent the afternoon just hanging out and resting and adjusting to the altitude. 17,000’ is definitely pretty high and we are all feeling it. Again the team is doing really well and we are all having a great time. The plan tomorrow is to leave Gorak Shep and walk the final couple of miles into Basecamp and set up shop there for the next couple of nights. We will try to push out some photos. The connection this high up the valley is spotty at best but I’ll do my best to get some photos and more write ups out to you guys. If not we’ll check in tomorrow from Basecamp. Take care.


RMI Guide Linden Mallory checks in from Gorak Shep

On The Map

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Hey Bill and Sarah,

Lisa gave me this link to your blog.  Really enjoying following along.  It brings back great memories of my trek into base camp.  I gave Lisa a prayer flag that I brought back from Nepal to hang at your house until your return. I’ll be praying to the weather gods for good weather for an ascent.  Keep safe and warm.  Can’t wait to hear more.

Clay

Posted by: Clay Rolader on 4/3/2011 at 5:41 am

Hi Tim!  I have finally been found by the chest cold that everyone has had.  Papa and I are a few days into it.  I am totally living through your notes and pictures!  I can imagine the cold clear air as you take each rest step.  Sounds like you are with a wonderful group!  I just adore Linden’s descriptions.  I almost feel as if I were there.  Please thank him for that.  Honey, I love you and miss your sweet face every day.  I go in the closet and smell your shirts!  Pathetic, I know!  I don’t care!  I will be paying my bills sometime today, and then looking at making your boat and building payments.  Every one is making this as easy for me as possible.  Tom has checked in, skip and cass have both been here.  You are missed!  I love you!  A&F Deb

Posted by: Deb McLaughlin on 4/2/2011 at 10:21 am


Everest Base Camp Trek: Another Day in Dingboche

Eight hours of foot travel yesterday and a descent of 3,000' resulted in avoiding the normal altitude feelings of fatigue, headaches and exhaustion (sounds like fun ) were not the case this morning. We are still at over 14,000' here at Dingboche and crazy to feel like we are gathering strength for the climb ahead. The difference between 17,000' and 14,000' is dramatic in the way you feel at rest and at work. Its back up hill in the Imja Khola Valley to our last tea house in Chukung before tent time on Island Peak. RMI Guide Mark Tucker
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