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Expedition Skills Seminar: Ecuador - Team Hikes Pinchincha Rucu

Greetings from expedition skills seminar, Ecuador! Day two: Not all of our mountaineering challenges down here should be considered overly stressful. Granted we aren't exactly roughing it here in hotel Mercure Alemeda, we figured starting the team off gently would ease us into the trip's first acclimating hike. Quito is flanked on its western edge by the frequently active Pinchincha Rucu volcano who's 15,500 foot summit makes for a perfect first excursion to altitude. Oh ya, back to a gentle start. After another delicious breakfast the team loaded into a sporty looking minivan with a sporty looking driver to match and headed ten minutes up the road to the loading dock of Quito's famous Pinchincha gondola. I don't know much, but I do know riding from 10,000 feet to 13,800 feet is better than walking. Who knew? From the top of the tram, views of Quito 's expansive size and beautiful setting blessed us before our trail was soon overtaken by the rising cloud bank. Despite the apparent fitness of our team, much hard breathing was done welcoming in the lower oxygen levels. Soon we found our rhythm and pushed steadily upward further into the cold clouds until the sign on the summit said we were there. By that time we were all in gloves, hats and warm jackets. We then descended quickly before the rain hit. The rest of the afternoon will be spent relaxing and exploring the neighborhood around the hotel. We are all psyched to be leaving the city and heading north. More to come, RMI Guides Adam Knoff, Casey Grom and Team
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Casey and Adam, you very successfully guided our entire expedition team to the summit of Cotopaxi on 16 Dec 2011. Your team will easily discover what great RMI guides they have. Happy New Year from Bill, Scott, and the four Mikes

Posted by: Bill HIll on 1/4/2013 at 8:03 am


Relaxing in Azau

The thunder rolled and the rain came down in sheets all night again, but the morning broke clear once more. Enjoying our extra day here in Azau, we had a leisurely breakfast and a slow start to the morning. Taking advantage of the good weather we walked back down the valley to the village of Cheget, taking a meandering trail through the woods alongside the river. Swollen by the warm mornings and the afternoon rains of the past week, the river was a raging torrent, brown with the glacial sediment it carries. Underneath its surface the current could be heard moving large rocks, creating faint echoes of thunder which would cause us to glance up at the clear blue skies in surprise before remembering the noise came from the water and not from above. It was a welcome change to walk through the pine forests with all of the smells and sounds that a forest brings, very different from the glacial slopes we have been traveling on above. Upon reaching Cheget we clambered aboard the brightly colored chairlift that leaves from the edge of town and rode up to the midway station of the ski area. There we found a nice table at a cafe with views looking across the valley at Elbrus, it's twin summits shrouded by clouds. With the sun shining on us we, just kicked back, playing a very tight game of Scrabble and relaxing after the climb. Bill emerged the victor by only the slimmest of margins. Back in Cheget we had a last meal of shashlik (kabobs) and then made our way back to Azau where we've spent the remainder of the afternoon unpacking our packs and repacking our bags for our trip to Moscow tomorrow. We have an early departure from Azau in the morning in order to catch our midday flight from Mineralnye Vody. We should arrive in Moscow by late afternoon with enough time to stroll through Red Square before evening. We will check in tomorrow with our final dispatch.
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Aconcagua: Luedtke & Team Ascend to Camp 3, Ready for Summit Bid

There are times when one has no option but to perform. As we sit here at Camp 3 with the summit of Aconcagua towering three thousand feet over us, it is clear that tomorrow will be one of those times. With a less-than-ideal weather window, we have our work cut out for us. We hope to have good news tomorrow.

RMI Climber Yev "Freyverissimo" Freyvert

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Mt. Rainier: Windy Day on the Upper Mountain for Four Day Climb Teams

RMI Guide Brent Okita reported windy conditions on Mt. Rainier from High Break to the summit crater. The teams spent a little time to make any clothing adjustments, get a bit of food and water and then started their descent from the crater rim around 7:30 AM. We look forward to seeing all the climbers at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to all climbers!
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Mt. Rainier: July 10th Summit!

The RMI Four Day Summit Climbs led by RMI Guides Jake Beren and Zeb Blais reached the top of Mt. Rainier early this morning. At 7:15 the teams were descending Disappointment Cleaver en route back to Camp Muir. The teams are doing well and enjoying the blue skies and calm weather. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guide Walter Hailes reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning via the Emmons Glacier route. The team has descended to Camp Schurman where they will spend the night before returning to Ashford tomorrow. Congratulations to Today's Teams!
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Way to go Jason (and team).  You set a goal, worked hard, and stood at the summit.  Thanks for letting us be a part of the experience!

Posted by: Kathy and Denny Meyers on 7/13/2014 at 3:47 pm

Way to go KH. You’re not so old after all!  How about Denali at 59?

Posted by: Beth Parmley on 7/11/2014 at 8:11 pm


Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Update

This is Seth again checking in from Camp Muir. After a blustery and cold day yesterday we have been enjoying the warm and calm conditions today. We began our day with breakfast at 7 and by 8:30 we were heading out onto the Cowlitz Glacier. We then found an awesome set of crevasses for practicing crevasse rescue. Everyone was able to alternately practice arresting a fallen climber, setting up a pulley system and descending into a crevasse. We also had a backup rope set up where we could practice belaying techniques. After the rescue practice everyone was still feeling good so we lowered folks back into the crevasse and had them ice-climb back out. It was a great day of training and with any luck tomorrow we'll do the real thing and climb the mountain. We'll check in again in the morning.
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We are rooting for you Carlos! Hope you guys are having a blast. See you soon.

Posted by: Fungai and Brandy Tongoona on 5/31/2012 at 8:49 pm

I AM SURE EVERYONE WILL CELEBRATE A SUCCESSFUL CLIMB TOMORROW.  HAVE SOMETHING EXTRA FOR ANDREW AS 6/1 IS HIS BIRTHDAY.  WHAT A GREAT way to CELEBRATE!

Posted by: REEVES SMITH on 5/31/2012 at 7:30 pm


Mt. McKinley: Mallory & Team at 14,200’ Camp

Hey RMI, this is Linden Mallory calling from 14,200' up on Denali. The team made it from 11 Camp to 14 Camp today. We woke up pretty early at 11 Camp and had a cloud deck right about at camp. Everything above us was clear and everything below us was socked in. So we packed up camp and it was pretty cool in the morning as we are on the shaded side of the mountain. Got everything thrown in the bags and started climbing and just had a spectacular day of climbing. Got above those clouds and stayed above them all day. It was a long day getting to 14,000'. We made it in by late afternoon, got settled and had a big dinner and crashed in the tents. The team is doing well. Everybody is healthy and we're all happy to be here. The plan for tomorrow is to head back down to Windy Corner if we can and retrieve that cache we put in a couple days ago and then come back to 14 Camp. So it shouldn't be too big of a day. We'll try to check in tomorrow and let you know how it goes. Thanks. RMI Guide Linden Mallory


Linden Mallory checking in from 14 Camp

On The Map

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Good work!  It’s great to hear that everyone is healthy and enjoying the trek.  We are so glad to have your entries to follow
.  Keep up the good work.

Posted by: Lorraine on 7/1/2011 at 6:40 pm

So glad to hear you are all healthy!  Lots of relatives are following you along your route…(via this blog).  We are all learning a lot and joining in the excitement!

Posted by: Laurie Colaneri on 7/1/2011 at 12:18 pm


Everest Base Camp Trek & Lobuche: Wedel & Team Marvel at their incredible surroundings

Out here, we remember to marvel. It’s so easy to forget how incredible this planet is but when you wake up to go to the bathroom in the middle of the night at 17,500 ft and you are surrounded by a world of stars you can’t help but be in awe. That’s what these last two days have been like. We are amazed at the power of the ice and the glaciers around us, we can’t get enough of the stars at night, and base camp — to see a whole city built of tents in such a harsh and unforgiving place is pretty incredible.

Today we got to walk to the lower Khumbu ice fall and do some ice climbing and training for Lobuche. We learned how to use our ascenders (safety first!), how to rappel and how to climb training for Lobuche. We learned how to use our ascenders (safety first!), how to rappel and how to climb steep ice and snow.

I’m so impressed with everyone on this team and so excited to see what Lobuche has to offer us these next few days.

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the climbing team  

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Aconcagua Expedition: Luedtke & Team Ready for Summit Launch, Minus one engine

Good afternoon ladies and gentlemen. In an en route update for everyone. It seems that we are experiencing some minor mechanical issues with one of our engines. This is nothing to be worried about but as a precaution they would like us to make a diversionary landing. RMI has informed us that the new aircraft will be able to continue from Camp 2 to the summit without any other issues. Unfortunately Nick will have to stay behind with the original aircraft. We have been told that it should be a minor fix and that he will see you in Basecamp for the flight back to the original starting point. Hopefully all will go well and the Summit window will stay open long enough for the four of you to accomplish what you set out to do. Otherwise Yev will be crying for years. Best wishes for the next two days and may the mountain be kind to everyone up there. 

RMI Climber Nick Hanson

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Gokyo Trek: Hahn & Team Ascend Steep and Snowy Renjo La Pass

Tuesday, October 8, 2024 - 4:09 am PT

The stars and satellites were twinkling when we left Lungdhen at 5:25 AM. It appeared to be a perfect morning for our big climb.  The trail was steep and unrelenting, right off the bat, but the team was moving well.  By the first rest break we no longer needed headlamps and the jagged peaks were bathed in splendid sunlight.  After the initial hills, we walked through rolling and sandy hills amid alpine lakes.  We began to encounter the snow that fell while we were coming into Kathmandu a week ago.  It got a little deeper as we got on the steep rock switchbacks and ledges that led to the pass itself.  It was tricky going.  There was no room for slipping or tripping.  But our amazing guide team of Tenzing, Lakpa Tenzing, Santa and Rai were vigilant and enormously helpful. The team had certainly noticed the 17,600 ft of elevation when we hit the pass, but it was so magical to be standing there in bright sun with no wind and the whole world seemingly revealed, that the gang smiled through whatever pain they were feeling.  Right there in front of us were Everest, Lhotse and Makalu (the first, fourth and fifth highest mountains in the world.)  We ate, drank and took pictures. It was easy to just hang out, gazing at a thousand mountains and glaciers, but after about thirty minutes it was time to get busy with a safe descent.  We’d made the pass at about 11 AM and were headed down the other side by about 11:40.  The snowy path through steep rock demanded laser focus, but things got easier as we descended.  We pulled into Gokyo 9.5 hours after we’d begun the day, having covered 8.7 tough (but beautiful) miles.  Our guesthouse sits on the edge of a turquoise lake at nearly 15,700 ft.  The team was happy to find their rooms in the comfortable Fitzroy Lodge. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

PC: Dave Hahn

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