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Today was the real first step of the adventure. We woke up early to catch one of the first rides on the gondola and we’re glad we did. The team enjoyed beautiful views of the surrounding volcanoes, Rucu Pichincha itself, and the cityscape of Quito to start our morning up in the hills. The weather out here in Ecuador is notoriously unpredictable though. Shortly after we set out, we were surrounded by clouds and a breeze that chilled us for the remainder of the climb. Still thankful for no rain, we climbed on and reached the summit in style. The best part of the climb? Well of course it was the coffee and donuts that awaited us at the top of the gondola. The Euro-style café there has sprawling views of Quito and coffee that tastes extra good after a hard day’s work. The team is headed back to Quito for our last night here before we head out to our next peak, Fuya Fuya.
RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli
Waking up early this morning after our celebratory dinner last night could have been harder had we not had our safari to look forward to. Day one had us visiting Lake Manyara National Park, home of the elusive tree climbing lion.
Well, no lion was seen ready to pounce upon our Landcruiser, but we enjoyed a spectacular first day. Even before getting off the highway we had giraffes and zebras run across the road right in front of us, miles from the park. Once in the park our drivers, Godson and Fabian, proved to be inexhaustible sources of information on everything from the flora and fauna of the region to the culture of the Maasai. And they have such sharp eyes!
We were treated to wildlife sightings around every bend in the road, it seemed. The cute, curious, intelligent baboons were everywhere and some of the first animals encountered, but shortly after that we saw elephants, water buck, wildebeest, zebras, water buffalo, hippopotamus, impala, monkeys, and probably a dozen varieties of birds.
Liz jokingly commented that she only climbed the mountain to do the safari, and that she really wanted to see an elephant. Well, her wishes came true as we saw perhaps a dozen elephants, some quite close up! Watching a hippo snap its monstrous jaw down (with a reportedly 6 ton force) was another highlight. But perhaps the ever present baboons provided the most amusement as they seemed to like to hang right by the roadside, so up close and personal sightings were common and way too entertaining.
And now we're settled in to the Plantation Lodge, an over the top lodge converted from an old coffee plantation that is luxury and swankiness redefined. At least in my eyes. Dinner can best be described as 'haute cuisine' and a wine cellar and bar lie in a subterranean set of rooms one can peer into from a circular window set in the floor of the dining room above. Crazy!
Ok, after our 'kick ass' day summiting Kili, we deserve this!
Bon appetite.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Before the big mountain bug bit me, I viewed snow as a blanket that came in the winter and lay quietly in place 'til spring's thaw. All that changed when I decided it wise to educate myself about avalanches. Taking part in the introductory Level 1 avalanche education course, I quickly learned how the snowpack, terrain, and triggers (like climbers or cornice falls) can transform that quiet blanket into a raging white dragon. Interested in learning more about this beast, I enrolled in a Level 2 avalanche course a few years later, and came to understand that each layer of snow that falls forms something of geologic record in that season's snowpack: if the snow falls warm, that layer will stay warm for a long time; if hail falls, it can be evident in the snowpack months later. Even more incredibly—similar to plates of geologic sedimentary matter—that seemingly silent white winter blanket is often actively undergoing radical metamorphosis due to vapor and temperature differences in the layers.
This February—with the support of the RMI Guide Grant—I participated in a Level 3 course. It's something of a graduate level course in the University of Avalanches: A rigorous curriculum that explores the intricacies of snowpack dynamics and the techniques used to assess how stable the snowpack is. Our course took place in the Wasatch Mountains and it began a few days after one of that area's avalanche forecasters had declared it one of the weirdest snowpacks ever. An excellent classroom had been arranged!
A key focus of the course was learning to quickly identify weak layers in the snowpack and then to assess the structure of that instability. One aspect of instability has to do with the kinds of snow crystals in between the layers. A
Cliff Notes summary would be: square ones are bad, round ones are good. But how can you tell with something so small? Were they the good guys or the bad guys? First, I had to identify which layer to look at, a process of first poking the snow with my finger to determine layer interfaces, and then prodding it with a fist, four fingers, one finger, a pencil, or a knife to get some grip on the specific hardnesses. Once all that was established, it was time to sort out the good from the bad. Somewhat ironically, amidst all of the grandeur of the Wasatch, I was often peering into the little lens of a snow microscope looking at the edges of myriad little bits of snow to determine their personalities.

Ultimately, beyond peering down a microscope, knowing the snow is a very sensory experience, incorporating sight, sound, and touch in order to determine its stability: windslabs are often squeaky like styrofoam, while faceted grains bounce off a gloved hand and make for a poor snowball. Of course, once stability is determined, the sensory experience is the pure enjoyment—how well does it ski? Through careful tracking of the Wasatch area over our week of study, we knew that north aspects were retaining the best snow. So, after our final exam, involving each person doing a complete analysis of the season's snowpack and weaknesses, we gathered together for a final run back into the front-country. We ripped our skins and then laid tracks down a beautiful bowl, each up us kicking up huge roostertails of powder joy—a reward for all of our diligent study.

The pleasures of backcountry skiing and the benefits of big mountain climbing with skis are becoming increasingly known in the outdoor world and RMI is right out in front of the trend. Safely partaking of those pleasures and benefits involves really coming to know the snow. While in its essence knowledge of the snow is like knowledge itself, where “The more one knows the more one knows they don't completely understand,” coming away from the Level 3 avalanche course, I feel good in knowing that I'm keeping the learning edge sharp. That sharp edge will aid me whether cramponing up alpine routes on Rainier or schussing down couloirs in the North Cascades.
It's just another day in the tents here on
Mt. Elbrus. We've been getting snow since about 3am last night. Fortunately we have not had much wind so that has kept our sanity mostly intact.
We are nearing the end of our trip now. With only a couple more days left before we need to be back in basecamp, we're trying to come up with a plan that could still put us on top without risking us missing our flights to
St. Petersburg. What we're thinking of right now is a single push from Camp 1 to the summit and back tonight. That will allow us to descend to basecamp the following day. Barring that we may have to return home safe and sound but without the summit.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
On The Map
We had a long, but productive, day yesterday. We established our high cache at 17,200'. Wind and snow moved in while we were up on the ridge, making for a challenging day at altitude, and a long, arduous descent on technical terrain. All told, it was a 12 hour day, with a late dinner and late bedtime.
Today we are resting, eating, and rehydrating. We slept in and enjoyed a hearty breakfast burrito brunch that lasted until noon. We will be resting again tomorrow, as there is currently a high wind warning for the upper mountain. Hopefully, things mellow out soon and we can move to high camp for our summit attempt. Until then we are enjoying the relative comfort of 14,000’ camp. We will check in again tomorrow to update you on our status.
RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team
Today we enjoyed an acclimitization hike on La Malinche. The trail was busy with other hikers and we made our first dog friends of the trip. Along the trail and through the trees we weaved our way up, spotting hummingbirds and rocky peaks surrounding us. 
We did not have the opportunity to summit due to weather and time but we still made it to 13,000 feet!
After a well earned, delicious meal at our resort, we settle in at 10,000 feet to rest for our Izta adventure tomorrow.
RMI Guide Abby Westling and team
Tuesday, July 20, 2021 2:48 pm PT
We are back in camp with tired legs and full minds after a windy but successful summit bid. We will wrap up our training this afternoon and hike back to trailhead in the morning.
RMI Guide Alex Halliday & Team
Hi this is Seth. We are up on the
Shira Plateau headed to camp. Its been an excellent day on the trail. The weather has been fantastic and we are looking forward to a hot lunch in camp. Tomorrow we will head to the Barranco Valley.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
On The Map
Hola amigos:
The last few nights have been a bit windy to say the least and the rattling of the windows has been soothing to some of us, and not so much for others. So we've had a few traditional siestas during the day.
Our plan was to move up to a
higher camp today, but due to weather and acclimatization we have decided to spend one more night here in the cozy hut.
Thankfully
Adam greeted the team with plenty of pancakes and coffee this morning, which helped start the day. We then headed out to do some training not far from the hut and did a short hike to get a better look at our route.
A number of climbers arrived today and are planning on climbing Cayambe tonight, which is good news for us. Hopefully they will be successful and kick in a good trail to help us out.
Other than that all is well here at just over 15'000'. Everyone is happy and hungry and looking forward to dinner.
RMI Guide
Casey Grom and crew
The Four Day Summit Climb July 24 - 27 led by Andy Bond and Mike Walter reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning at 7 a.m. The team reported cold temperatures and windy conditions. There is a cloud deck around 7,500' with clear skies above.
The Five Day Summit Climb July 23 - 27 led by Linden Mallory was also just approaching the crater rim at 7 a.m. this morning.
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz July 23 - 28 led by Mike Haugen reached the summit at 8:30 a.m.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
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Just do it! Happy trails!
Posted by: Ruby on 11/4/2022 at 1:39 pm
Go Joe Go !!
Daryl
Posted by: Daryl on 11/2/2022 at 7:36 pm
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