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Hi! This is Solveig Waterfall checking in from our Cabana at the La Malitzi Resort at the base of
La Malinche. We had a great acclimatization hike this afternoon and made it all the way to 13,000ft! Everyone did great and the weather held off nearly long enough. At the first sounds of thunder we began a hasty descent back to relative safety below tree line and then motored all the way back down to our cabins under heavy rainfall. Everyone is in great spirits after a delicious dinner and we are all cozied up drying out clothing and boots next to the fireplace enjoying the sounds of the continued rain and thunder. Quite the first day here in the mountains of Mexico!
Tomorrow we will travel to the Altzomoni hut near the base of Ixta and begin preparations for our first big climb. Crossing our fingers for an improvement in the weather!!
RMI Guides
JJ Justman and
Solveig Waterfall
On The Map
Wednesday, June 5, 2013
Hello,
This is the
RMI Mt. McKinley June 4th Expedition. The whole team is here in Talkeetna, Alaska, packed and ready to rock. Today we packed up, checked our gear and sat in on a National Park Service orientation to preview a bit of the upcoming adventure. The team is excited and ready to launch. So far the flying weather hasn't let many folks land these days, but it appears to be stabilizing just in time for us to storm the SE fork of the Kahiltna. With any luck we'll fly out tomorrow morning, so we better get some rest tonight.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
There is something about ice climbing in a crevasse that is just mind blowing. Today the group got to experience ice climbing and how much fun it is.
We headed for the foot hills of
Mt. Francis to find a deep crevasse suitable for great climbing. Big smiles all day long. Tomorrow we are getting ready to go climbing Radio Tower. The team is excited to climb higher tomorrow and are doing well!
RMI Guide Andres Marin
We visited
Ngorongoro Crater conservation area today. It's around two million years old and is home to an abundance of wildlife. The big five live there year round and we saw four of them. Rhino, elephant, cape buffalo, and lions but no leopards. We are hoping to see one tomorrow and we're still looking for a cheetah too. It was a long day that started early and thoroughly wore us out riding around in our land cruiser standing up in the intense sun.
We have just finished a great meal here at the plantation lodge and everyone is doing well.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
Hello everyone,
Today the weather was beautiful again here on Elbrus, and the team went on another acclimatization hike. This time we set a few new altitude records by climbing up to about 15,000. The team did great and even made better time than yesterday, which is a sure sign that everyone is adjusting to the altitude.
We spent most of the afternoon relaxing here in camp, people watching and socializing with all the climbers. We've even managed to befriend the local cat, who we are calling Brus, short for the mountain we are hoping to climb, Elbrus. Not much else to report. Everyone is in good health and seems to be having a great time.
May 27, 2023 7:28PM PT
Things were exactly as we hoped this morning, calm, and blue above.
We woke earlier than most, and had our chores taken care of quickly to get out of camp.
We were roughly the second team out, which turned out to be the right move as it seemed like nearly everyone at 14 headed to the fixed lines today. From the top, we could see a near to continuous line that stretched back to 14.
We made good time and rolled into camp at 17 around 4pm. Then started the laborious work of building camp. It's hard to do anything up here quickly - walk, shovel, stand up too fast, so it took some time, but we are now settled in - working on melting snow for water and hoping that tomorrow gives us our summit shot.
Pete, Henry, Tatum and Team
Before the big mountain bug bit me, I viewed snow as a blanket that came in the winter and lay quietly in place 'til spring's thaw. All that changed when I decided it wise to educate myself about avalanches. Taking part in the introductory Level 1 avalanche education course, I quickly learned how the snowpack, terrain, and triggers (like climbers or cornice falls) can transform that quiet blanket into a raging white dragon. Interested in learning more about this beast, I enrolled in a Level 2 avalanche course a few years later, and came to understand that each layer of snow that falls forms something of geologic record in that season's snowpack: if the snow falls warm, that layer will stay warm for a long time; if hail falls, it can be evident in the snowpack months later. Even more incredibly—similar to plates of geologic sedimentary matter—that seemingly silent white winter blanket is often actively undergoing radical metamorphosis due to vapor and temperature differences in the layers.
This February—with the support of the RMI Guide Grant—I participated in a Level 3 course. It's something of a graduate level course in the University of Avalanches: A rigorous curriculum that explores the intricacies of snowpack dynamics and the techniques used to assess how stable the snowpack is. Our course took place in the Wasatch Mountains and it began a few days after one of that area's avalanche forecasters had declared it one of the weirdest snowpacks ever. An excellent classroom had been arranged!
A key focus of the course was learning to quickly identify weak layers in the snowpack and then to assess the structure of that instability. One aspect of instability has to do with the kinds of snow crystals in between the layers. A
Cliff Notes summary would be: square ones are bad, round ones are good. But how can you tell with something so small? Were they the good guys or the bad guys? First, I had to identify which layer to look at, a process of first poking the snow with my finger to determine layer interfaces, and then prodding it with a fist, four fingers, one finger, a pencil, or a knife to get some grip on the specific hardnesses. Once all that was established, it was time to sort out the good from the bad. Somewhat ironically, amidst all of the grandeur of the Wasatch, I was often peering into the little lens of a snow microscope looking at the edges of myriad little bits of snow to determine their personalities.

Ultimately, beyond peering down a microscope, knowing the snow is a very sensory experience, incorporating sight, sound, and touch in order to determine its stability: windslabs are often squeaky like styrofoam, while faceted grains bounce off a gloved hand and make for a poor snowball. Of course, once stability is determined, the sensory experience is the pure enjoyment—how well does it ski? Through careful tracking of the Wasatch area over our week of study, we knew that north aspects were retaining the best snow. So, after our final exam, involving each person doing a complete analysis of the season's snowpack and weaknesses, we gathered together for a final run back into the front-country. We ripped our skins and then laid tracks down a beautiful bowl, each up us kicking up huge roostertails of powder joy—a reward for all of our diligent study.

The pleasures of backcountry skiing and the benefits of big mountain climbing with skis are becoming increasingly known in the outdoor world and RMI is right out in front of the trend. Safely partaking of those pleasures and benefits involves really coming to know the snow. While in its essence knowledge of the snow is like knowledge itself, where “The more one knows the more one knows they don't completely understand,” coming away from the Level 3 avalanche course, I feel good in knowing that I'm keeping the learning edge sharp. That sharp edge will aid me whether cramponing up alpine routes on Rainier or schussing down couloirs in the North Cascades.
It's just another day in the tents here on
Mt. Elbrus. We've been getting snow since about 3am last night. Fortunately we have not had much wind so that has kept our sanity mostly intact.
We are nearing the end of our trip now. With only a couple more days left before we need to be back in basecamp, we're trying to come up with a plan that could still put us on top without risking us missing our flights to
St. Petersburg. What we're thinking of right now is a single push from Camp 1 to the summit and back tonight. That will allow us to descend to basecamp the following day. Barring that we may have to return home safe and sound but without the summit.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
On The Map
Buenas Tardes from Ecuador; Today is a rest day in between climbing Cotopaxi and Cayambe. We traveled north through the Avenue of Volacoes on the Panamerican Highway this morning, heading closer to our next climbing objective: Cayambe. We stopped in Quito for lunch and to say goodbye to our teammates Robin and Sean, who successfully climbed Cotopaxi with us as part of the Cotopaxi Express trip. We had a blast climbing with them, and are sad to see them leave.
After lunch we continued north to the oldest hacienda in Ecuador, Guachala. We are settled-in for the evening in this relaxing atmosphere, and we will rest up for Cayambe. Tomorrow morning we will head to the world-famous Otovalo market in the morning, before driving up to the climbers' hut on Cayambe to stage for our summit attempt. I will give update again tomorrow.
Sunday, May 7, 2023, 10:01 pm PT
Be very quiet…we’re hunting for crevasses!
Today we took our skills out into the wild, to test ourselves against the Ruth Glacier. No we didn’t walk around until someone fell in, we instead wandered through the maze of crevasses looking for the perfect one to safely lower someone into and haul them out of. The intricacies and difficulties of crevasse rescue don’t fully translate practicing on flat ground. Our biggest challenge was finding a crevasse that wasn’t drifted full of snow from the last storm and subsequent winds. After a lot of weaving and winding through the broken edge of the Ruth we finally found one that was a little more open than the rest. We sent RMI guide Mike Bennet in as our guinea pig to see if the snow floor could be collapsed and our crevasse deepened. Surprisingly the snow floor was deep and solid, so we made due with the 25 feet of snow wall we had available. The team performed admirably and even dialed in a second crevasse rescue system known as the “Drop C”. By midafternoon the sky was blue and the sun was hot and the team had completed training. We spent the rest of the afternoon lounging and organizing
for our move to high camp tomorrow!
Beunos noches,
RMI Guides Jack, Mike and the team
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Have fun & be safe - big props from Seattle!
Posted by: Stacey Guerrero on 6/8/2013 at 8:49 pm
Zurich wishes all the best and good luck for the whole team.
Posted by: Tom&Jerry;$ on 6/6/2013 at 12:06 pm
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