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Friday, June 21st, 2013
Ahhhh a day of rest. We did not even move in our tents until the sun hit them at 9:30. We had a morning of slowly cooking pancakes for the group. We believe pancakes are the perfect acclimatization food.
We volunteered to be guinea pigs for a medical experiment having to do with high altitude. The test involved having a series of heart rate and oxygen saturation measurements taken and then walk around a track for 6 minutes to see how those measurements change. It was not a competition, but let's just say our group crushed it!
If the weather is nice tomorrow, our plan is to move some gear up to
17,000' Camp. On
Denali, 60% of the time the weather is good all the time!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and RMI Summit Team 6
On The Map
Our
Four Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guide Brent Okita reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. Brent radioed early this morning and reported high clouds with hail and winds at about 25mph. The team spent about 15 minutes on the crater rim before starting their descent and are now en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's teams!
The rain continued to spit down on Moscow last night, although not enough to deter a few Muscovites from singing in the street outside our hotel on their way back from the bars. We left the hotel before dawn, watching daylight break over a damp and sleepy city on our way to the airport. Soon, without much trouble despite our loaded bags that far exceeded the 20 kg./passenger limit, we were checked in and boarding the aircraft. Perhaps it was due to the dreary weather but the boarding process was smooth and orderly - a far cry from the normal mad jostling of bodies that typically occurs as every Russian vies for the right to be first on the plane.
Departing Moscow we quickly broke free of the grey cloud cover and the blue skies above stayed with us all the way to Mineralnye Vody - our gateway to the Caucasus. As we approached the runway Elbrus' twin summits were shining clearly in the distance, breaking the horizon and dwarfing the hills around.
Again, all of our bags successfully navigated the Russian baggage check system and arrived with us so we were soon on the road, driving through rolling hills of wheat fields and recently harvested sunflowers to the city of Kislovodsk. A small city by most standards, Kislovodsk is a famous destination known for its natural mineral springs and it remains a popular retreat for many of Russia's well-to-do. Its main streets have recently been repaved and sidewalks widened, we are told partly in the regional preparations for the 2014 Winter Games, although Sochi remains several hours drive from here. We checked into our small hotel located across the street from the town's busy farmer's market that runs from sun up to sun down every day of the week. Taking the rest of the afternoon to explore our immediate neighborhood, pick up some groceries from the nearby store, and resort our gear again, we are at last ready to depart for the mountain tomorrow. There are still several hours of navigating the twisting dirt roads deep into the Caucasus Steppe to reach Elbrus. Assuming the good weather holds and the road are in passable condition we should reach Base Camp by early tomorrow afternoon.
The team is eager to complete our last leg of the long journey to Elbrus and we are looking forward to beginning the climb. Everyone is in good spirits and passes on their best to folks at home. We will check in tomorrow after setting up our Base Camp on the north side of Elbrus!
Leaving Puebla after a good breakfast we drove though fields of cactus and learned about the different ways you can eat them from our driver Rogelio. Once in Tlachichuca, we sorted gear and piled into an old Dodge Power truck and drove to the high hut on Orizaba. Fortunately it had snowed recently and the roads were not very dusty and we made it up to the hut with great views of our upcoming climb. Once at the hut we ate and rested and listened to the cold wind on the hut as we waited for our early start. Wish us luck.
Happy Fourth of July!
Led by RMI Guides Henry Coppolillo and Jess Wedel, the Mt. Rainier Four Day Climbs reached the summit of Mt. Rainier around 5:35 am. The teams were approaching the top of Disappointment Cleaver on their descent, when they checked in around 7:30 am. They will continue their descent back to Camp Muir where they will pack up before descending the Muir Snowfield to Paradise. We look forward to welcoming them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Congratulations climbers!
August 24th at 8:35 pm PST
18,000ft + and still going strong! A beautiful sunrise graced us this morning.
August 24th at 6:25 pm PST
17,000ft and doing well. It's a little breezy but not too cold.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
The
Four Day Summit Climbs led by RMI Guide Brent Okita & Kel Rossiter were forced to turn this morning due to avalanche danger. The teams reached 12,700’ on Mt. Rainier before turning around.
Brent radioed in at 6:44 am as the teams were taking a rest break at the top of
Disappointment Cleaver in white out conditions. They will continue to Camp Muir to repack and rest before continuing their descent to Paradise later this morning.
Hi this is Seth checking in from Everest Base Camp. Today the group enjoyed a rest day at camp. We are all engaged in eating, drinking, card-playing, Scrabble-playing and general relaxing. It's fun to have everyone in the same place at the same time. The guides spent the morning hashing out the strategy for the remaining two acclimatization rotations proir to our summit bids. The goal is to have everyone within a day of each other when it comes time for the final push. It's no small task getting everyone on the same page as there are the inevitable minor illnesses that keep people hanging back for a day or two here and there. Our group is now set to start the next acclimatization round all within our prefered window. But for right now it's all about the R & R.
The real heroes of our expedition were busy working today. The Sherpa team carried the last of the supplies and most of our oxygen bottles to Camp Two and now we're all set to use that camp on our next rotation. I'm personally looking forward to heading up the mountain the day after tomorrow. I haven't yet been to Camp Two this year and I am looking forward to spending several nights there this coming week. Last year Dave Hahn and I found several old oxygen bottles from the 70's. I will use some of my down time there to explore the Western Cwm and see what artifacts I can turn up.
That's all for now. Wish us luck on our upcoming efforts on the mountain.
Siesta time! This morning we slept in a little and worked a bit on our tents. It has become a little windy here and actually presents a good training for time up high. We must be able to push through a little wind in these exposed camps if we want a shot at the
top.
Earlier today the team went for an acclimatization hike and I must say put forth a solid performance. Climbing up loose scree with great technique really inspires confidence for our move tomorrow. Now if the weather will cooperate, we will be one step closer to the top!
Speaking of the top, it was a real treat to see JJ and Leah's team descending after a safe trip. Congrats!
RMI Guide
Jake Beren & Team
The Four and Five Day
Mt. Rainier Summit Climbs led by Eric Frank and Solveig Waterfall, respectively, reached the summit this morning. Eric reported beautiful weather, no wind and the cloud deck below Paradise. The teams ventured to Columbia Crest and enjoyed the summit views before they began their descent at 8 a.m.
RMI Guides
Eric Frank and
Solveig Waterfall
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Any smiley faces in the pancakes? Glad you got some rest. Big storms here (well, yes, it is all relative) but all is well. :)
Posted by: KConstantine on 6/22/2013 at 9:25 pm
Pancakes, huh? Well, OK. But you know, the other teams are reporting Pop Tarts. Since we live at 9500 feet, Bill and I are sure proof that Pop Tarts are the best high altitude food ever made. But if you guys want to eat pancakes, carry on.
Love to Steve & Grasshopper from Lisa, Bill, Taii, & Togo
Posted by: Lisa Mackey on 6/22/2013 at 6:56 pm
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