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Aconcagua: Cifelli & Team Rest-Step their way to Camp 3

Today began with a team meeting at breakfast. Last night there was a possibility that mud slides in the Vacas Valley would prevent us from coming down the mountain the way we came. Fearless leader Dom confirmed we would not be able to backtrack the way we came and instead would go down the other side of the mountain to the Mulas base camp, a route known as the "360." Since we would not be able to go back to our original base camp, we'll have one of the helicopters pick up our duffels and bring them to us at the Mulas base camp. 

Our carry day to Camp 3 today brought many us to new high points, with Camp 3 at nearly 19,600ft. Since we would have to carry all our gear up and over the mountain, as opposed to caching it at Camp 2, we all had pretty heavy packs. As we climbed today, the air got thinner and thinner, for most of us requiring a breath every step. Even though we have been at 18,000ft for almost two days, it still required significant fortitude to keep climbing. 

High elevation does a number on your body. As you climb higher, the decreasing oxygen makes it difficult to even do the very basic tasks, you loose your appetite and have to force yourself to eat, and for most climbers there is a point where they need start taking Diamox to help prevent high altitude pulmonary and cerebral edema. 

After a few days at a particular elevation, we get acclimatized and start feeling good. But we can only bring so many supplies and we have only so many days to get to the summit and back. So our schedule keeps us moving to a new higher point just as we were getting used to our current camp. This is mountaineering and one of the many things that makes it so difficult and the act of doing it so rewarding. Getting to a rest stop on a hike or the next-higher camp on a carry or move day brings a sense of relief that is hard to find in any other activity. 
As we approach our last uphill move day, and followed soon after by our summit bid, it's important to remember what a great feat we have accomplished so far, and how lucky we are to be up here with the best climbing team you could ask for. 

Climber Andy Green

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

This just got even more exciting. Mudslides, helicopter transport and an alternative route. You’re all so close!

Posted by: Ed DaPra on 1/25/2024 at 7:19 pm

Amazing! Difficult! Rewarding! And the VIEW!

Personally could have done without some of the detail on the altitude challenges on the body Dr. Green. I trust the spirit of the team to check on each other.  Difficult day for sure.

And, best of all, The Summit is Just There!

Posted by: Michelle DeMers on 1/25/2024 at 4:04 pm


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Waiting at 11,000ft for Break in Weather

Monday, July 3, 2023 - 9:05 pm PT

It has been a windy snowy 24 hrs at 11,000ft.  Not very pleasant to be outside of the tents for long. We are biding our time, waiting to make a break for it.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Congratulations & Happy 4th of July!
Jokes are all downhill from here… :D

Posted by: FAUSTINE SAMEC on 7/4/2023 at 9:24 pm


Alaska Seminar: Linden Mallory & Team on the Ruth Glacier!

The little town of Talkeetna, Alaska, was beginning to wake from its quiet winter slumber when we arrived yesterday evening. The long warm evening calling out locals and climbers alike to relax on the outdoor patios along the main strip. After dropping off our gear we grabbed a quick bite at the legendary West Rib Pub, enjoying some excellent caribou burgers as our last meal before heading into the mountains. The morning was perfectly clear and calm and after checking in with the National Park Service we headed over to the airplane hangar at the Talkeetna Airport to finalize our gear preparations - spreading warm clothes, bags of food, skis, and climbing gear across the floor of the hangar, taking careful count of everything, and then miraculously packing it all back up into our bags. By early afternoon we were ready. We traded out our jeans and flip flips for high tech synthetic shells, pulled on our boots, and clambered into the ski plane - a turbo prop with skis known locally as a Beaver - and took off for the Alaska Range. As soon as we climbed above Talkeetna, the incredible mass of the Alaska Range loomed in front of us over the dash board of the plane, crowned by the recognizable summits of Denali, Mt. Hunter, and Mt. Foraker. We flew above the landscape of thinning forests and lakes and gradually the formidable wall of mountains began to fade into series of valleys, ridges, peaks, and glaciers. When we reached the toe of the Ruth Glacier we made a gradual turn to the north and flew right up the center into the Ruth Gorge - a stunning stretch of glacier lined by the massive granite walls of Moose's Tooth, Mt. Dickey, and Mt. Braille. North of the Gorge stands the Ruth Amphitheater - a huge glacial cirque surrounded by massive peaks, including the summit of Denali high above. After making a few extra circles because the views were simply too stunning to pass up, we landed on the glacier near the Mountain House, a small hut perched on a rocky outcropping in the middle of the glacier. We unloaded the plane, said goodbye to the pilot, and opting for the true McKinley experience, set to work establishing our camp on a shallow ridge to the west of the Mountain House. After getting ourselves settled in, we took advantage of the good weather to spend a few hours reviewing glacier travel skills and crevasse rescue techniques. Once the sun finally began to creep behind the nearby ridgelines, the temperatures began to sink and we found ourselves pulling out our parkas and adding layers - despite the warm weather it is still early season in the Alaska Range. We are all settled into camp after an excellent dinner and getting ready for bed despite the sun still being high in the horizon, not much darkness up here this time of year. We are planning on leaving our Base Camp here early tomorrow morning and traveling back into the Gorge to scope out some potential climbing objectives before we set up camp. We are all doing well and very excited to be in the mountains! RMI Guide Linden Mallory & Team

On The Map

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Vinson Massif: Stormin’ Up High and at Low Camp

It was a storm day on Mount Vinson, so we stayed put at low camp. You might wonder how such a day differs from the rest day we took yesterday... it isn't very different. We ate, we slept, we read, we listened to music, we watched TV. The weather seemed to be improving early in the day, in that wind speeds appeared to be dropping on the peaks and ridges above us. Our latest forecasts also suggested that we'd be rewarded for waiting as the outlook is for an easing in both wind and cloud for the next few days. But none of that seemed to do us much good at low camp today. The sun continually found thick clouds and murk to hide behind and so it was a cold afternoon and evening. The team didn't hang out for long in our dining tent after dinner... back to the sleeping bags with fingers crossed for a more useful day tomorrow. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Larry

You are very experienced with “The waiting game”!

Hang in there ... taking full advantage of “resting up” in preparation of successfully “heading up” when it becomes safe and appropriate to do so.

Take care,

Fred K

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 12/16/2013 at 10:07 am

Hope the weather clears soon for you. Love that you can “watch TV”. You have more power than we do in the North Georgia mountains when it hits a balmy 25 degrees+. Be safe and good luck. We’re thinking of you.

Posted by: Mom/Grandma on 12/16/2013 at 8:24 am


Mexico’s Volcanoes:  JJ & Team Check in from Ixta High Camp

Hey everyone this is JJ and Solveig with the Mexico team here on Ixta. First we do want to let everyone know that everyone here on the team is safe and sound and second, we haven't heard any news but we hope that everyone in Acapulco and the coast land of Mexico is ok with that hurricane. Here on Ixta at High Camp at 14,700', we have received the inland storm, I believe the remnants of what happened with that hurricane. We received over a foot of snow last night, heavy winds and no visibility. The winds have died down, it is not snowing any more. We still don't have good visibility. But everyone is still in good spirits. Needless to say, the mountain certainly said no to us for going to the top today but this is a day that is pretty obvious that the mountains are to be enjoyed and not conquered. We are making the best of it, everyone is in great spirits, having fun and smiling. Now our focus is packing up and getting down off of Ixta and into Puebla. Everyone says hello on the team and thanks for following along. We will definitely show you some of the sites and sounds from Puebla, Mexico and maybe some of what it looked like yesterday getting up to high camp. Everyone is doing great and we will touch base soon. Our next objective is Orizaba and we are definitely keeping our fingers crossed for better weather. Take care everyone. Bye. RMI Guide JJ Justman


RMI Guide JJ Justman checks in from high camp on Ixtaccihuatl.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Excellent. Glad everyone is ok!

Posted by: Mic Walter on 10/23/2013 at 9:48 pm


Mt. Kilimanjaro: Waterfall & Team Complete Climb and Return to Dik Dik

Everyone is back at the Dik Dik hotel safe and sound! It was a whirlwind past few days on Kilimanjaro as we went from 15,200 feet up to 19,340 and all the way out in just over 24 hours. The team did really well and the weather was good, even though we got rained on a bit after the summit. The weather for our climb was amazing and we all had great conditions on the summit. We started just after midnight under a partly cloudy sky. It was a windless night and that kept the temps from dropping to extreme lows. That said we did climb to over 18,000 feet before the sun came up so staying warm required us to be vigilant with our gear. Everyone kept their focus though and we all made it up. We summitted in a big wave spread out over about 45 min which was really cool for me as I got to spend a lot of time on top. After returning from high camp we resisted the urge to relax too much as we still had a decent hike down to our last camp. As we snacked on french toast the clouds came up and we started to get some light rain. The rain picked up as we hiked down to Mweka camp and that added some challenge to the day but our excellent staff had dry tents and hot tea waiting for us. After dinner we dropped onto our sleeping pads for a well deserved rest. This morning we woke up to more cloud cover. After another excellent meal we had a wrap up celebration with our mountain staff. The guys from the Dik Dik do an amazing job and we all wanted to make sure that they know we greatly appreciate the hard work. Then we hit the trail. A few hours of hiking was nothing for this crew and before we know it we were down at the gate. We will have dinner in a couple of hours and toast to the great times we had on Kilimanjaro! Tomorrow it's safari time!!! RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
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Vinson Expedition: Cifelli & Team Rest and Prepare for Summit Bid

Saturday, November 30, 2024 - 5:48 pm PT

Today is rest day in Camp 2. I don’t know what Dom’s blog said about yesterday’s ‘hike’ to Camp 2, but it was hellish. Endless fixed lines, rising almost perpendicularly - a little exaggerated - and me demonstrating the art of the ascender to all. We literally died when we reached Camp 2. So today was Lazarus day - the day to bring the team back from the dead. We slept, or rested, ‘til about noon. Chris had a quick blood transfusion to overcome the odor poisoning he suffered in our tent last night.  Then it was hydration, eat, and construct our best version of the mess tent. Dom has taken over design, as he was quite put out by the excellent design the rest of the team executed in Base camp without his input or supervision, while he tunneled looking for the origin of man, or more accurately Dave Hahn. Dom is quite fussy about his cooking space, the worktop height, easy access to the spice rack - it’s a bit like Gordon Ramsey! In fairness he is an ace with the ice-saw.
We had a quick stroll to the most fantastic viewing point.  Looking down on the dot of Camp 1 in the valley below, and the most incredible view of Mt Shin, and the pinnacle ridge leading to Tyree. However it is way too cold to linger, someone said -25F.  Antartica brings a whole new definition to the word cold.  Hopefully Lazarus day works and we’ll be fit to give Vinson a shot tomorrow.


- RMI Climber Myles

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sending good vibes to the team.  Go Myles Go!  Got the best leader in Dom! 

-Andrew

Posted by: Andrew H Hall on 12/1/2024 at 4:19 pm

Dear Vinson Team 2024

The good news is - you have reached the high camp.
That was not the coldest but the hardest part of the expedition.
I remember Dave saying - whoever reaches high camp also reaches the summit.

Dave said on the last evening in the high camp:
“Today there is no one in all of America who has had a dinner as high as ours.”
Supposedly there were more people on Everest than on Vison and you will be one of them.

I wish you bright sunshine on the way to the summit and hopefully no wind.
I am sure you can do it and will never forget the last steps to the summit.

Take care of yourselves, you can’t feel the cold anymore because of all the happiness. I lost a fingertip while taking photos at the summit, it turned black and somehow I kept thinking about ET.

Good luck to you all.

Dear Anja, my thoughts are with you - Hans

Posted by: Hans on 12/1/2024 at 8:34 am


Everest Base Camp Trek: Tucker & Team Reach Namche Bazaar

The team had a very nice rest after our last night in Kathmandu. The city was a hoot, but back here in the high country is tough to beat. All business today. After a nice breakfast of French toast, guess we should call it Nepali toast, we started ascending to Namche Bazaar. A little overcast made for pleasant travel. We are now officially in Sagamartha National Park, which encompasses Mount Everest. We climbed more than 2,000 feet in great style and are now resting comfortably at a tea house in Namche Bazaar. Located at over 11,000 feet makes for a planned extra day here for rest and adjusting to these altitudes. So important to not ascend too quickly. The A team is consuming a lot of great food, but that is a good thing. Remember you can't run a bulldozer on a pint of diesel! RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

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Nancy , I am so proud of you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!What an experience.  Jackie and I are here looking at the photos of your trek…...WOW!

Posted by: mimi on 4/3/2014 at 8:58 am

Hi Liz and all your spirited team members!
So proud of you guys and wishing you all the best as you continue on a trip of a lifetime!  So proud of you all!!!  Very inspirational to see you guys pushing it to your limit.
Sending Love and light,
Karin

Posted by: Karin Hathaway on 3/25/2014 at 1:03 pm


Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Carry Halfway

We are back to great weather on Vinson. There was still a little wind apparent up high during the morning, and a few fog banks forming and dissipating down below, but by mid-day one could only describe it as "splitter". Perfect blue sky, big bright sun and no wind... splitter. Team 2 had a fine breakfast at Vinson Base and then we settled into a light training and review session. Bill, Sara, Fatima and Larry each have fine climbing resumes, so it was only necessary to run through some quick examples of crevasse rescue and anchoring systems to refresh memories. In the afternoon we went for our shakedown cruise: a carry of food and gear to half camp. It was great to stretch legs and get some views of the surrounding humongous peaks. We were back to Base by around 7 PM, in time for dinner in the strong evening sun. We turned in for bed confident that the sunshine would keep tents warm well into the night. Sometime after one or two AM the sun will go behind the mountain and life will get cool, but by then we'll be sleeping... Dreaming of the move to low camp tomorrow. Word is that the Ilyushin is flying to Union tonight, so Team 1 (Kara, Juan, Piotr, and Spencer) should have breakfast in South America. Bon Voyage. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Larry and the gang:  Glad to know the weather is cooperating and hope it continues.  What tales you can tell us when you return.  Best wishes to all! Gerri S.

Posted by: Gerri Seaton on 12/12/2013 at 5:18 pm

Larry and Crew

Great to hear how your expedition is progressing so well!  Hope the weather continues to be good.  Excited to hear how your safely and successful move up the mountain!!  Keep each other warm and best of success!!!

Fred K

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 12/12/2013 at 6:35 am


Kilimanjaro: Hahn & Team Settle in at Karanga Camp

Our first steps out of the Barranco Camp at 8:30 this morning brought us to the Great Barranco Wall. It can be an intimidating feature when seen from a distance as it appears to be just that... a wall. But there is a trail of ledges and handholds and well-worn steps over the lava outcroppings that can work just fine for scaling the wall. Our entire team was climbing well and strong and as it turned out, our main concern was traffic. It was rush hour on the wall. Hundreds of porters and climbers from other teams were all trying to squeeze through the ledges at the same time. Things eased by the halfway point as the crowd spread and we were able to concentrate on the big steps. We were up the wall in about an hour and onto much easier hiking. We'd enjoyed some pretty decent views upward toward Kilimanjaro's main peak earlier in the day, but we were still seeing nothing below but a sea of clouds. Gradually we came to be under a giant umbrella of cloud centered on the summit. It was a relatively short time before we dropped into the Karanga Valley and climbed out its steep opposite side to walk into Karanga Camp. We are all getting into a pretty smooth routine now of breaking camp, climbing and then moving into new camps. We sheltered in our tents for some light afternoon rain showers, and were happy to come together in the roomy dining dome for afternoon tea and dinner. Partial clearing after dinner allowed great views of the lights of Moshi, glowing far below. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

It’s a great accomplishment for all of you.  You did it Liz & Kym!  Woof & Marj

Posted by: Marjorie Schupbach on 9/21/2013 at 3:26 pm

Hi Sis! I hope you are having a great time up there, I just wanted to tell you that Mom and I are always thinking about you and woof woof Norman too! I hope the weather improves for you all soon and at least on Summit day. Love you!

Posted by: John S on 9/21/2013 at 9:19 am

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