Hi RMI this is Linden Mallory calling from 8,500’ on the Kahiltna Glacier on Denali. We woke up this morning to a pretty gorgeous day up at 14 Camp. We packed up camp and headed downhill. Definitely big loads leaving 14 Camp but we managed to fit everything into our packs and our sleds and motor back down the route reaching 11 Camp mid day. We dug up a small cache that we had left there with excess gear, trash and supplies that we didn’t need higher on the mountain earlier in the trip. We packed that up and moved it into the back of our sleds and kept moving down the glacier.
We got to about 8,500’ here on the Kahiltna Glacier just above Ski Hill which is just about 700’ above what is actually considered the true Lower Glacier. It was quite warm by that time of the afternoon and it was just getting a little too exciting to cross all those crevasses. We decided to set up shop here just above Ski Hill and cooked up a big dinner. Now we are waiting for the temperatures to drop and we’re watching some clouds blowing from the south of the Kahiltna Glacier. These clouds basically insulate the glacier so they keep the warm temperatures down here and don’t allow things to freeze. So we're not really sure how it's going to shake out for us tonight. If the clouds recede and it clears up we're going to pack up in the middle of the night and try to make it to Base camp by tomorrow morning. If these clouds stick around and it stays warm and the snow bridges across the crevasses don't freeze, we will just be hanging out here until conditions improve. So we will check in tomorrow and let you know how it goes.
Take care.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
RMI Guide Linden Mallory Checks in from 8500 on Denali
Buenos tardes from Aconcagua! Our team enjoyed a great rest day yesterday and it really paid off today on our move to Camp One. Everyone did a great job pushing these big packs uphill and we are recovering with our afternoon siesta from the day's labor. Tomorrow we hope to carry higher and begin to position ourselves for an eventual shot at the top. But first thing's first, time to relax at our new home at over 16,000 feet!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
The southern solstice treated us to a long, restful, and relaxing day here at Camp 2. We waited until the sun reached camp before stirring and then had a relaxed morning, watching the long shadows coming off the mountain above us gradually fade as the sun rose higher. From camp, we have perfect views of a good portion of our climbing route on summit day. There was hardly a puff of wind coming off of the top of Aconcagua and we could make out our trail crossing the wide scree slope called the Acarero and up the gully known as the Canaleta to reach the summit ridge. The perfect weather, views of the route, and time to rest and recover has motivated us and we are excited about the coming days. Tomorrow we plan to move up to Camp 3 at 19,500' in hopes of making a push for the summit in the following days. We are all feeling strong, rested, and ready for the next push. We'll check in tomorrow from high camp.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Bill Dorn- Wishing you a Merry Christmas from Rita and Carol in sunny, hot Florida.
Posted by: Rita Powella on 12/22/2013 at 9:21 am
Bill Dorn! We are so proud of you and your entire team. Can’t wait until we can hug you on January 23 (our next breakfast club) and get all the stories. Climb safely. Love, Dav’ne
Posted by: Dav'ne Stahley on 12/22/2013 at 8:34 am
Summit!
We did it, most of us anyway, but I have to wonder if those that turned around short of the summit didn't make a better decision. I say that because it was one of the toughest days I've had on Cayambe in a long time. It was cold, windy, and snowy almost the entire day. The conditions were safe to climb in, but it was far from enjoyable. Six of our nine climbers made the summit and the three that chose to head down early did so because I believe they simply weren't enjoying it.
We started our day rather early with breakfast at 11pm and were walking shortly after midnight. The first hour of the climb went rather smoothly as we made our way to the start of the glacier. We took a short break to adjust layers, put our crampons on and rope up for the ascent. It seemed like as soon as we started walking the wind picked up and the snow began to blow. Unfortunately for us the blowing snow was coming straight down the glacier and directly into our faces. As we painfully made our way uphill, we had to stop and put on our Gore-tex to protect us from the conditions. We slowly battled our way for the next few hours taking short breaks and finally after seven trying hours stood on the summit. It was so windy on top we only stayed for just a few minutes before quickly descending back down the glacier.
Once safely back at camp the team made quick work of getting packed up and we headed down valley to thicker air and a wonderful cafe where we filled bellies before heading south to our home at Chilcabamba for the next few days. I'm sure everyone will sleep soundly tonight and we are looking forward to taking a rest day tomorrow.
Everyone is in good spirits!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
RMI Guide Mike Walter radioed in on the Four Day Summit Climb August 20 - 23, 2013, at 7:30 his team was 10 minutes from the crater rim. Mike reported broken clouds below at 6,000’. The team was in the cloud cap with light winds and poor visibility. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise led by Billy Nugent also reached the summit this morning. Both teams began their descent around 8:40 a.m. PT. The teams will return to Camp Muir to repack before continuing their descent to Paradise. We look forward to seeing everyone this afternoon at Rainier BaseCamp.
Congratulations to today's climbing teams!
I echo Jean and Rich. Guides were A+—they knew when to encourage and challenge. A great experience—thank you.
Posted by: Ken Keatly on 10/16/2013 at 5:57 pm
I want to personally Thank the BEST Guides ever ! Billy, Robbie and Chase are very professional and have great personalities. We learned a lot on our Expedition Skills Seminar and now have new skills. Thanks again, Jean and Rich
Jambo.
Mr. Tucker here at the Mweka Camp. You call breath easier as well as us here at the 10,000’ level. All is going well. We had a big day and looking forward to some great deep sleep in the thick air tonight. We’ll have a quick hike to the gate and then back to the hotel and we’ll drop you a note from there.
Thanks.
Good Show!! Now that you guys are back in thick air, how does it feel to reach your goal? MAy everyone have a great time comming home with your adventure ready to share ... even more than this blog I mean ... thanks for the time to post. See you soon Steve!
Paul
Hello, this is Linden calling, today is April 6th. It was a beautiful morning at Base Camp and after breakfast we started our descent through the Khumbu Glacier back into the morraine and on to Gorak Shep. From there we climbed a little peak called Kala Patar and enjoyed fantastic views of Everest and the Khumbu Glacier. After sitting up there for a while taking in the scenery we began the descent to Gorak Shepa and continued back down the valley to Lobuche. There we met up with the RMI Everest Climbing Team and shared a cup of tea. We continued on to Pheriche where we will spend the night.
Today was a long day and we traveled quite a distance through glaciers and moraine, climbing up to 18,500' and back down to 17,000'. We are all excited to be heading toward Island Peak and we are looking forward to reaching base camp in a few days.
Today we awoke at various times. Some have escaped the wrath of the jetlag and some of us not so much. After a few cups of coffee we met for our team meeting where we went over our itinerary, important information and gear check for our time in the Khumbu. Afterwards we loaded a van and went on our city tour. We walked around the Boudhanath Stupa and learned out the Wheel of Life and the Mandala. Next we walked the many steps to the monkey temple and yes there were plenty of cute monkeys. But don't let their cuteness confuse you, they can be quite intimidating. After an afternoon walking around the sites, the team was ready for a quick rest before dinner. Tonight is our last night in Kathmandu. Tomorrow we wake before the sun to head to the airport to fly to Lukla. Please send all your positive, lucky vibes and keep us in your prayers, no matter the religion, for safe travels on our flight and for good weather.
Today, after two days of hard work and accomplishment, the team rested at Camp 1 on Aconcagua. All that was on our minds was quesadillas, hot drinks, and naps. Our bodies need to recover and make a few more red blood cells before we can be strong higher. Tomorrow we will try and move camp to 18000 feet, but with a little snow in the forecast we will just have to wait and see.
RMI Guide Ben Liken
Hi this is Seth checking in from our last camp on Kilimanjaro. We are all down from the summit safe and sound.
We had a great climb that started off with a pretty good snow storm for Tanzania and ended with clear skies on top. Everyone made it to Uhuru Peak as well which was great. That makes 100% success for my two trips this season.
After the summit we had sunny skies back to high camp where we had a late breakfast and a brief rest. Following that we made our way down the notoriously steep Mweka descent trail to our final camp.
Of course we had a few rain showers get to us on the way down. That has just been the nature of Kili this season but we are all dry in our tents and planning on an early dinner.
Tomorrow we will head out in the morning and expect to be back at the Dik Dik hotel by early afternoon. Our safari starts the next morning!
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall calls in from the summit of Kilimanjaro.
The light is at the end of the tunnel! Can’t wait to hear all about our adventure and see all the pictures! Love you daddy!
Posted by: Samantha on 7/11/2011 at 7:05 am
Sounds like everyone is still enjoying their trek. Keep up the good work and contiue on a safe trip back to base camp and home.
Posted by: Lorraine on 7/10/2011 at 5:09 pm
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