Most Popular Entries
Today, after two days of hard work and accomplishment, the team rested at Camp 1 on Aconcagua. All that was on our minds was quesadillas, hot drinks, and naps. Our bodies need to recover and make a few more red blood cells before we can be strong higher. Tomorrow we will try and move camp to 18000 feet, but with a little snow in the forecast we will just have to wait and see.
RMI Guide Ben Liken
On The Map
Posted by: Casey Grom, Solveig Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 18,997'
Summit!
We did it, most of us anyway, but I have to wonder if those that turned around short of the summit didn't make a better decision. I say that because it was one of the toughest days I've had on Cayambe in a long time. It was cold, windy, and snowy almost the entire day. The conditions were safe to climb in, but it was far from enjoyable. Six of our nine climbers made the summit and the three that chose to head down early did so because I believe they simply weren't enjoying it.
We started our day rather early with breakfast at 11pm and were walking shortly after midnight. The first hour of the climb went rather smoothly as we made our way to the start of the glacier. We took a short break to adjust layers, put our crampons on and rope up for the ascent. It seemed like as soon as we started walking the wind picked up and the snow began to blow. Unfortunately for us the blowing snow was coming straight down the glacier and directly into our faces. As we painfully made our way uphill, we had to stop and put on our Gore-tex to protect us from the conditions. We slowly battled our way for the next few hours taking short breaks and finally after seven trying hours stood on the summit. It was so windy on top we only stayed for just a few minutes before quickly descending back down the glacier.
Once safely back at camp the team made quick work of getting packed up and we headed down valley to thicker air and a wonderful cafe where we filled bellies before heading south to our home at Chilcabamba for the next few days. I'm sure everyone will sleep soundly tonight and we are looking forward to taking a rest day tomorrow.
Everyone is in good spirits!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
On The Map
Hi RMI this is Linden Mallory calling from 8,500’ on the Kahiltna Glacier on Denali. We woke up this morning to a pretty gorgeous day up at 14 Camp. We packed up camp and headed downhill. Definitely big loads leaving 14 Camp but we managed to fit everything into our packs and our sleds and motor back down the route reaching 11 Camp mid day. We dug up a small cache that we had left there with excess gear, trash and supplies that we didn’t need higher on the mountain earlier in the trip. We packed that up and moved it into the back of our sleds and kept moving down the glacier.
We got to about 8,500’ here on the Kahiltna Glacier just above Ski Hill which is just about 700’ above what is actually considered the true Lower Glacier. It was quite warm by that time of the afternoon and it was just getting a little too exciting to cross all those crevasses. We decided to set up shop here just above Ski Hill and cooked up a big dinner. Now we are waiting for the temperatures to drop and we’re watching some clouds blowing from the south of the Kahiltna Glacier. These clouds basically insulate the glacier so they keep the warm temperatures down here and don’t allow things to freeze. So we're not really sure how it's going to shake out for us tonight. If the clouds recede and it clears up we're going to pack up in the middle of the night and try to make it to Base camp by tomorrow morning. If these clouds stick around and it stays warm and the snow bridges across the crevasses don't freeze, we will just be hanging out here until conditions improve. So we will check in tomorrow and let you know how it goes.
Take care.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
RMI Guide Linden Mallory Checks in from 8500 on Denali
The light is at the end of the tunnel! Can’t wait to hear all about our adventure and see all the pictures! Love you daddy!
Posted by: Samantha on 7/11/2011 at 7:05 am
Sounds like everyone is still enjoying their trek. Keep up the good work and contiue on a safe trip back to base camp and home.
Posted by: Lorraine on 7/10/2011 at 5:09 pm
Jambo.
Mr. Tucker here at the Mweka Camp. You call breath easier as well as us here at the 10,000’ level. All is going well. We had a big day and looking forward to some great deep sleep in the thick air tonight. We’ll have a quick hike to the gate and then back to the hotel and we’ll drop you a note from there.
Thanks.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker checks in from Mweka Camp.
On The Map
Good Show!! Now that you guys are back in thick air, how does it feel to reach your goal? MAy everyone have a great time comming home with your adventure ready to share ... even more than this blog I mean ... thanks for the time to post. See you soon Steve!
Paul
Posted by: Paul Basta on 2/21/2011 at 11:38 am
Hello, this is Linden calling, today is April 6th. It was a beautiful morning at Base Camp and after breakfast we started our descent through the Khumbu Glacier back into the morraine and on to Gorak Shep. From there we climbed a little peak called Kala Patar and enjoyed fantastic views of Everest and the Khumbu Glacier. After sitting up there for a while taking in the scenery we began the descent to Gorak Shepa and continued back down the valley to Lobuche. There we met up with the RMI Everest Climbing Team and shared a cup of tea. We continued on to Pheriche where we will spend the night.
Today was a long day and we traveled quite a distance through glaciers and moraine, climbing up to 18,500' and back down to 17,000'. We are all excited to be heading toward Island Peak and we are looking forward to reaching base camp in a few days.
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Humbleness is the key ingredient for climbing mountains. To embody the notion that you, the climber, are such a small part of the dynamic equation needed to safely climb an incredible peak is as challenging as the actual climbing. Our team was faced with such a challenge once we reached our high camp on El Pico de Orizaba. Weather was not cooperating with our plans to attempt the summit as wind, precipitation, and low visibility engulfed the mountain well into the morning. Many a time, emergency situations that arise in the mountains are rarely the product of just one issue, rather many tiny poor decisions that escalate to something worse. We discussed this over as a group and agreed that if we had left in poor visibility, precipitation, tough route finding, and difficult travel with the fresh snow we were not setting ourselves up for success and safety.
The weather slowly eased it's temper as the sun began to rise revealing a beautiful, snow-covered landscape reaching down to nearly 12,500'. This unusual winter storm has left a dry, dessert-like alpine environment encased in the cold grasp of winter. A cloud cap swarmed the upper reaches of the Jamapa Glacier as our team headed out for a hike in hopes of reaching the glacier. Watching the wind whip through the mountain up high, reminded us how unforgiving mountaineering can be. The snow became deeper and deeper as we approached the last section of the rocky labyrinth just below the glacier. At the foot of the glacier, around 16,500 ft our team was knee deep in snow, gazing at the summit in awe. From this point the summit was beckoning us to climb, what looked like only a stone's throw away. This is when one must face the reality in this case of what looks so close is easily 3 hours away and with deep snow, more like 4 hours. Too long, too exhausting, too dangerous at this point to go on. Our team, satisfied with the journey and experience of climbing in Mexico, returned to the Reyes' lodge for some relaxation prior to our departure home.
As we sat at our gates waiting for our respective flights, we all began to dream, to wonder of the next climb. For some us, a return trip is on the bill. For others, a future mountaineering expedition is right around the corner. For all, a peace knowing we came home safe, friends, and hungry for more. Thank you to Tom, Casey, Ryan, Jayson, Mazzie, Seamus, Collin, and Marty for making this an amazing climbing program for RMI!
Posted by: Walter Hailes, Nicole De Petris
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Friday, February 7, 2025 - 6:57 pm PT
After getting a peak at Cayambe on our hike yesterday, we were eager to make our way to the mountains. We packed our bags and set off from Quito to Laguna Cuicocha, a beautiful crater lake surrounded by jungles and peaks near to our next hotel in Otavalo. Clouds sat high up in the sky for most of the day, sunlight peaking through for the first half of our circumnavigation of the lake. Just as we hit the parking lot after our 7.5 mile hike, the light sprinkle turned into rain and we hopped in the bus to Itinyaya Residencias, our stay for the night. We chatted by the fire in the main lodge after settling into our rooms and capped off the night with a team dinner of more local meals.
RMI Guide Walter Hailes
×
New Post Alerts:
New Post Alerts:
Ecuador Seminar February 4, 2025
Greetings,
So far so good in Chile. Everyone is here and in good spirits and we had a great welcome dinner in the center of Temuco.
Powder skiing in the forecast! We'll keep you posted as things progress.
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
Summit! Jake Beren called in from Mt. Shuksan with an update on his team. They set out yesterday a little later than usual due to stormy weather, but the climb went great. The team is hiking out from their high camp today and will celebrate their success in Sedro Woolley.
Congratulations team!
Posted by: Mark Tucker
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
The team, as well as our luggage, is here at the Dik Dik Hotel. We caught up on some jet lag with one member saying, "Best sleep ever." After a nice breakfast, we had an orientation meeting then went straight into equipment checks. So important to take the time to start a climb with what you need for any mountain. The team came well prepared as very little was missing.
Once the team was organized for the climb, we had time to check out the local sights. Some of the team made a trip to Arusha, a nearby city, while others hiked around our neighborhood visiting shops, schools and an orphanage. We are all doing well and looking forward to the start of the climb tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Previous Page
Next Page
yay daddy!
Posted by: Marianne Mycroft on 12/16/2013 at 1:56 pm
Way to go Dad!!
Posted by: Gabe Mycroft on 12/16/2013 at 1:55 pm
View All Comments