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Summit! We did it, most of us anyway, but I have to wonder if those that turned around short of the summit didn't make a better decision. I say that because it was one of the toughest days I've had on Cayambe in a long time. It was cold, windy, and snowy almost the entire day. The conditions were safe to climb in, but it was far from enjoyable. Six of our nine climbers made the summit and the three that chose to head down early did so because I believe they simply weren't enjoying it. We started our day rather early with breakfast at 11pm and were walking shortly after midnight. The first hour of the climb went rather smoothly as we made our way to the start of the glacier. We took a short break to adjust layers, put our crampons on and rope up for the ascent. It seemed like as soon as we started walking the wind picked up and the snow began to blow. Unfortunately for us the blowing snow was coming straight down the glacier and directly into our faces. As we painfully made our way uphill, we had to stop and put on our Gore-tex to protect us from the conditions. We slowly battled our way for the next few hours taking short breaks and finally after seven trying hours stood on the summit. It was so windy on top we only stayed for just a few minutes before quickly descending back down the glacier. Once safely back at camp the team made quick work of getting packed up and we headed down valley to thicker air and a wonderful cafe where we filled bellies before heading south to our home at Chilcabamba for the next few days. I'm sure everyone will sleep soundly tonight and we are looking forward to taking a rest day tomorrow. Everyone is in good spirits! RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew

On The Map

Strong winds with gusts of 60 mph, new snow, and poor visibility kept our Four Day Summit Climb teams led by Casey Grom and Elias de Andres Martos at Camp Muir today. After the teams have breakfast and pack up, they will begin their descent to Paradise.

Hey, everybody it’s Billy. I’m calling from 17,000’ where we are enjoying our third rest day or you could call them weather days. We have been sitting around in the clouds, it has been snowy and windy. We are hoping that this high pressure that is supposed to build this weekend over the mountain actually happens and we’ll get a chance to climb. Right now the team is hanging tight, chilling in their tent, every now and then getting out and working on the snow walls, trying to maintain sanity and waiting for this weather to lift so we can take a crack at the top. I’ll give you guys a call again tomorrow, let you know if anything new develops. Take care, RMI Guide Billy Nugent

On The Map

We're all down from Cotopaxi, healthy and happy after a successful summit climb! We woke up at midnight and left the climbers' hut at ~1:30 am... headed for the summit. The weather was spectacular: no wind, moderate temperature, and a crystal clear, starry sky. Our team climbed strong, and 7 1/2 hours later we were all congratulating each other on top! The snow conditions were perfect for cramponing--a good thing because we had some exposed traverses and a steep ice chute to negotiate up near the summit. The route was very enjoyable, and challenged us not only with its altitude, but its variety. This team of climbers attempted Cotopaxi last summer, but we were denied its summit by a violent storm. Persistent folks we climbers are; we scheduled this reunion trip and it paid dividends. We had great climbing weather and summitted 3 peaks in 4 days... all of which are higher than any peak in the Continental US! Now we're getting some much needed rest at the hacienda Chilcabamba. After a leisurely breakfast we'll head back to Quito tomorrow morning. I'll be in touch tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike Walter

Checking in from Camp 1 - We made our move today from Basecamp to Camp 1. We got an early start this morning, and left camp at 8:45 am. Even though we had hiked most of the trail yesterday, the landscape is amazing. Looking out over the green foothills of Elbrus, with the ever changing light is a real treat. And the weather cooperated for us all day, with a few sprinkels as we finished the last stretch to camp. But just as we got moved into the tents, it began snowing very hard with some thunderstorms in the valley below. We are now resting, waiting for the storm to pass, and will begin dinner soon. Tomorrow we need to go back down about 800 feet to retrieve our cache that we left yesterday, and then back up to camp. The group did an excellent job today, and everyone is healthy.

The 2023 RMI Gokyo Trek Team hasn’t accomplished much yet… but we sure are tired.  We each arrived in Kathmandu, via separate routes, in the last day or so.  By modern travel standards, we are lucky!  No flight cancellations, no hijacked luggage.  We all made it.  But those deluxe, extra length flights and passing over half the planet’s time zones has us sleepy.  We started the program with an easy and enjoyable dinner in our hotel “The Yak and Yeti”.  Perhaps tomorrow we’ll have more bandwidth for looking around the dining room and lobby to recognize the climbing celebrities present.  This evening we just needed a little sustenance before turning in.  Kathmandu was rainy today.  Tomorrow, when we’re rested and ready to explore our surroundings, it will certainly be better. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Sunday, June 6, 2021 - 6:57 am PT

We woke up this afternoon after a delightful day of sleeping, and once again avoided the heat on our carry to 9,800 feet. We are now all prepped and ready to move to Denali's 11,000-foot camp as soon as weather permits!

RMI Guides Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci and JT Schmitt

Wednesday, May, 12, 2021 - 10:04 pm PT

We got a break in the weather this afternoon and were able to fly in to Basecamp on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Camp is all set up and we have starting sorting out equipment for (hopefully) moving up glacier to the base of Ski Hill tomorrow. It was warm and sunny here today, although a cloud has settled in now and it's snowing lightly. We'll touch base again tomorrow as we start our long adventure of living on a glacier.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

I am thrilled to announce that yesterday at 6:45am, three members of our Ecuador climbing team successfully reached the Whymper summit of Ecuador's highest peak, Chimborazo. Myself and our local guide Peter were the two guides leading the summit rope teams and I will say without question it was in the top five most difficult summit days of my guiding career. From our high camp at 17,300', the route made a moderate traverse underneath a giant rock feature called el Castillo translated as "The Castle". The team moved together with good style through the rocks to the exposed ridge above. It was here the route began to steepen. From the top of El Castillo at 18,000' to the crest of the Ventimilla Summit at 20,450', you could literally follow the line of ascent by holding a pencil out in front of you and the track would not deviate from its vertical alignment. No other mountain I have ever guided posses such a steep, unrelenting route as Chimbo. I'm not sure why the local guides down here have such a disdain for switch backs but on all the mountains, not just Chimborazo, the routes take the most direct line possible. Unfortunately this type of route doesn't bode well for tired legs which have seen two giant mountains in the last five days. By 19,000', half of the team had decided to return to camp, which secretly I was most jealous of. After waking up at 10:30, powering down some instant oatmeal while standing outside freezing, then preparing for a climb we know is going to hammer us, the thought of camp always sounds better than the alternative. Back on the route, the snow conditions began to change for the worse. Thank God for Peter Piston Legs who, without complaint, post holed, kicked steps and blazed the trail though an old track that was literally blowing in with snow by the time each climber reached steps kicked in by the rope team in front. Through freezing temps, difficult snow and growing fatigue, we all continued upward. Once we gained the Ventimilla Summit, we thought the kilometer traverse across the summit plateau was in the bag. But nope, not at all. We had heard that climbing teams were reaching the lower summit but no one had been to the true summit in over two weeks! This left us breaking trail at 20,500 feet, which not even Peter found enjoyable. With the only complaints coming in the form of gasps, we marched on planting our ice axes on top just as the rising sun formed an outrageous pyramid shadow stretching for miles into the waking countryside. With hugs and high fives we all felt a great sense of accomplishment to have knocked off the hat trick of Ecuador's three highest peaks. Something I have never done in one trip. After a hard descent we made our way back to the Refugio and then onto a beautiful lodge where we eased the soreness away with good food, wine, beer and stories. It was a great closing to two incredible weeks of climbing together. We all have now just gotten to our hotel rooms in Quito. The Internet is alive and well worrying some and pleasing others. Work for most is unfortunately never far around the next corner. As we prepare for our final meal together I can't help but feel a bit bummed. This group has been truly great. I would climb with any one of them again. From Quito this is Adam Knoff and Jordan Cargill signing off. Thanks to everyone who followed along. Muchas Suerte.

The Mt. Rainier Four- and Five- Day Summit Climbs, led by Billy Nugent and Jake Beren respectively, reached the summit this morning! It was a cold day on top with winds steady between 10-15 mph. The teams are doing well as they descend through a cloud cap hovering on the mountain top. Congratulations to today's summit climb teams!