Most Popular Entries

Sunday, May 4, 2025 - 10:44 pm PT

Hello from the Ruth Gorge! We landed in the amphitheater today to some fickle weather and unsettled clouds, but K2 was able to sneak us on. After trudging through some knee deep snow for 3-4 hours, we got to work building camp below the granite spires of the gorge. 

Seems like more weather is on the horizon so we will cross our fingers and take what we can get!

RMI Guide Dan May and the Ruth Glacier seminar

The Five Day Climb led by Andy Bond reached 13,200' on Mt. Rainier. The team turned around due to route conditions. They are back at Camp Muir and will be descending to Paradase later today.

Congratulations Team! 

Things went a little smoother today.  Weather in Kathmandu was improved. There were still some clouds but no rain when we got to the airport at 6 AM.  In no time at all we were getting on board the AStar B3 helicopter bound for Lukla.  It was exciting and exhilarating to get up out of the Kathmandu Valley and to see the Himalayan peaks rising in a line to the North.  They were impossibly big and steep and beautiful with the first rays of the sun finding them.  We flew for about 45 minutes and caught a clear -but brief- glimpse of Mount Everest stabbing into the sky before we landed in the shadows down in Lukla. 

Our trek began with a good breakfast.  We set out walking at 9:30 and started downhill.  This part of the valley is all forest and farmland with a big violent river charging through the middle.  There was plenty to see as we followed our Sherpa guides, Dawa, Tenzing and Tsangdu.  Finally we crossed the river a little after noon and pulled into Phakding.  We lunched and then napped away the afternoon at 8600 ft of elevation.  By dinner time the tea house had filled with trekkers recounting their exciting first day on the trail. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Namaste everyone. This morning we left our tea house in Phakding and headed up this stunning valley toward Namche Bazaar, which is the largest village in this famous valley. We hit the trail just after 8:00 along with quite a few other trekkers. Everyone did really well on the hike, and no one seemed to mind pausing often for the endless mules and Zopkeos (cross between a Yak and a cow) carrying loads headed up valley and basecamp as we made our up the trail. It was reasonably busy on the route with trekkers and climbers, but the traffic seem to flow pretty smoothly. The team crossed a number of high suspension bridges without a problem, even with a light snow falling. Overall it was a really enjoyable day as we climbed up to just over 11,200' where Namche sits. RMI Guide Casey Grom and Base Camp crew

Building an endurance base takes more than just long easy-paced workouts. Long workouts create the muscular efficiency to deal with long miles, but moderate intensity intervals and steady state workouts are important for building a solid endurance circulatory system that, in concert with your long workouts, makes up your endurance base. A great aspect of steady state training is that you can incorporate it in a variety of training mediums: running, mountain biking, road biking, swimming, rowing, or hiking.  

A steady state workout encompasses a sustained period of hard effort, paced just under what you would consider your race pace or the maximum pace that you can sustain for a given distance. Sustained efforts between twenty minutes and an hour and fifteen minutes have been shown to be most effective for this type of training. There is an obvious difference in pace between a twenty-minute effort and an hour plus effort: the goal is to sustain the pace that you start the workout at all the way until the end of the workout. The pace is typically about 10% less than your maximum effort over a similar time period. You can use a variety of methods to measure your pace and success of the workout: heart rate monitors, your minutes per mile, or for those with more experience, basing your pace on perceived effort or feel, are all effective methods. Though the pace is below your maximum effort, this workout is uncomfortable, and one of the biggest challenges is to stay with the workout mentally and maintain the pace throughout without letting the pace drop. This mental component is also great training for climbers, since this is exactly the mental toughness that you need in the midst of a tough stretch of terrain.  

Note: As the intensity of your workouts increase, the importance of a quality warm-up and cool-down cannot be overstated. This is a really important aspect for preventing injuries.

Steady state workouts provide a couple of key training objectives. Accomplished over several months as part of an endurance building block, these workouts increase cardiac output (the amount of blood pumped by the heart), decrease resting heart rate, and increase lactate threshold. To increase cardiac output, your body is stimulated to increase the capillary network that delivers oxygenated blood to your muscles, to increase the capacity of existing capillaries, and to increase your blood volume. These factors help your circulatory system to deliver oxygen and nutrients to your muscles and remove waste products. An increase in your lactate threshold indicates that your body is able to remove lactate efficiently at higher levels of effort, so that you can exercise harder and longer before fatiguing. Finally, a drop in resting heart rate indicates that your heart is operating more efficiently, delivering blood to your muscles with less effort.  

The training gains from incorporating steady state training into your routine will help you push longer and harder in the mountains, and the ability to move more blood that contains more oxygen will do nothing but help with the effects of altitude as well! These are difficult workouts, but keep your head in the game and push hard all the way through the end and you’ll be amazed at your endurance gains!

_____

Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!

Our Four Day Summit Climbs led by RMI Guides JJ Justman and Pete Van Deventer called from the “tippy tippy top of Columbia Crest” this morning. Pete reported his team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 6:45 and the teams began their descent just before 8:00am. Pete reported the conditions as: light wind, sunny, clear skies, super nice, and relatively warm. Congratulations to today's teams!

On Saturday, March 2, 2024, Catherine Rossbach reached the summit of Mexico's Pico de Orizaba with the Mexico's Volcanoes team led by RMI Guides Dominic Cifelli and Ben Luedtke. At age 75, she is the oldest woman to reach Orizaba's summit. Wow! Go Catherine!!

Packing a Toyota Land Cruiser modified for life in safari was a far cry from stuffing a backpack this morning. That's not to say we aren't missing our tent life and mountain staff but this will have to do for now. We climbed in the Land Cruisers just after 8:00 AM and the left Arumeru River Lodge -- our home away from home. We headed northwest to visit the beautiful Lake Manyara National Park. The lake is a brief stopping ground for many migratory animals and home to more than 300 bird species. We managed to see wildebeest, Cape buffalo, lots of baboon, and a herd of elephants from close up. It was a nice introduction to the incredible diversity of wildlife in Tanzania. Everyone's eyes opened wide when we arrived at The Plantation Lodge and saw the perfectly cared for gardens, luxurious rooms and friendly staff. This will do just fine for the next couple of days while we explore the nearby parks. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

With perfect weather conditions, the Four Day Climb led by RMI Guide Steve Gately reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Steve reported warm temperatures and zero wind on the summit. After taking some celebratory photos and enjoying the views, the Four Day Climb began their descent from the summit shortly after 9:00 AM. The team will return to Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford this afternoon. Way to go, climbers!

Friday, July 5, 2019 - 9:46 PM PT Finally, the perfect weather arrived! We made good use of this clear, calm, sunny, relatively warm day as we motivated on up to 17,200' Camp. The alarms at 14 Camp went off at 4:30 and we were walking uphill in pleasantly cool shadows by 6:45. We had the advantage of having traveled this terrain before, we had the added advantage that other teams had tracked it in for us yesterday following the days of new and blowing snow. And finally we had the huge advantage of the extra acclimatization days and nights spent at 14,000. We were on the beautiful crest of the West Buttress proper before the morning sun found us. And we were up Washburn’s Thumb and taking a break close to 16,900 when we greeted Mike Haugen’s victorious team making their way carefully down the ridge crest. It wasn’t long after that -at 12:40- when we rolled into the camp they’d just left for us at 17,200. The early arrival and pre-built camp meant we had a very easy afternoon of resting and drinking water. We tried to limit our time out in the intense high altitude sun, but every now and then one of our climbers or guides could be found at the easily accessible edge of camp, staring wide-eyed at the drop down to 14 Camp or the bigger drop to the Kahiltna Glacier... or to the bigger drop down to Anchorage. There is still smoke in the air, but I didn’t hear many complaints about limited views. In late afternoon we sat down to talk about the summit attempt we’ll make in the morning. The forecast could not be better. We’re feeling quite lucky and optimistic. Even so, it will be a tough climb and it will work us hard. Every climber took an extra portion at dinner with the big day in mind. Dead calm at 8:40 PM, sun still high in the sky, all for tonight. Stay tuned. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map