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Mt. Everest Expedition: Off the Lhotse Face

Update at 2 p.m. Nepalese Time (2:13 a.m. PST) The whole team is now off the Lhotse Face and headed toward Camp 2. Time to take a deep breath and figure the big part of the climb is over. Still have the Icefall tomorrow morning but like where we are at. Yeah! RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Linden, you are the second Mallory to reach the top of everest; congrats. You’re the top!

Posted by: b lee on 5/22/2011 at 6:24 am

GO LINDEN… i am proud of you cuz- great guiding!!
Be safe :)

Posted by: Shelby Herrod on 5/21/2011 at 1:36 pm


Mountaineering Training | First Steps: Thinking About Your Training Plan

I'll never forget the day I decided to be a mountain climber. I was sixteen years old, sitting in a lecture hall at Edinburgh University - captivated by the slideshow being presented by the famous British Expedition Leader, Sir Chris Bonnington and his climbing partner Doug Scott. After it ended I got myself to the front and spoke to the man himself asking, "How do you begin to start to plan an expedition?"   "Just get your boots on, Lad", was the reply, accompanied by a larger-than-life grin and a firm handshake.    I had no response. However, that one comment led to many climbs the Scottish Highlands - and ultimately - onto years of expeditions, mountain climbing including a long stint as a guide. It's been a long and satisfying adventure so far!    I think that after the decision to climb Mt. Rainier or any other major mountain, there ought be a celebratory moment: a pause to mark the start of the preparation and to consider what the months ahead will look like. The climb may be a long way out, but the adventure starts now.   What are some considerations at this point? I recommend taking an inventory of the following:     - Time - Equipment - Fitness & Health - Location & available resources   Time: What time do I have to train? Be realistic about how many hours per week and also consider any vacation time in the months ahead. Is there a day (or half day) each week you can devote to training? What can you do on a daily basis? Can you combine training and a commute? Walk to work with a pack? Ride a bike?    Equipment: Will you be renting or will you likely need some gear of your own? To begin your training, all you'll need now are shoes, boots, a backpack and workout/hiking clothes. And going forward, there'll be good time to experiment with socks, layering and other clothing. Depending where you live (anyone reading this from Chicago or the northern states?), you might get some good use of cold-weather gear this winter during your training.    Fitness & Health: In next week's blog post we'll discuss how to set a baseline. Now is a good time to think about your strengths and any areas you want to improve. In terms of health, this might be a good time to schedule an annual physical examination, to visit the dentist, to take a look at your overall diet, and to generally consider what your athletic lifestyle will look like going forwards.   Location and Available Resources: A climber can train for mountaineering anywhere. However, if you are living in Florida, stationed on a military base halfway around the world, or getting ready for a northern winter, some creativity and imagination will make things more successful. In terms of resources at hand, do you have access to hiking trails? Are there hills? Can you get to a gym or have access to a stair-master or elliptical machine? Do you have a place at home, work, or school where you can workout? Is there a local yoga class, training facility, spin class, or swimming pool? Do you even like any of these activities? Do you have a workout partner, a fitness coach, or a personal trainer?    We'll discuss program design over the next few weeks. For now, a little time considering all of the options available will spark your imagination as to what is going to work for you. I've always thought that the best fitness program is the one you actually do. Personally, I like to enjoy my training and I like there to be variety and somewhat of a social aspect to it all. You'll be putting in some hours and days of preparation over the months ahead and making it as fun and interesting as possible will boost results.    Your climb is months away, yet the adventure has already begun. Congratulations on getting started!   - John Colver   John Colver is a longtime climber, former mountain guide, and certified personal trainer with the American Council of Exercise. Colver introduced outdoor fitness classes to athletic clubs throughout the greater Puget Sound region before creating his adventX brand. Currently, adventX leads training programs in Seattle and Colver presents clinics on outdoor fitness at companies such as Microsoft, Boeing, the American Lung Association, and REI. Colver lives in Seattle.
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I have some big mountaineering goals. I’m not sure how much training and fitness is necessary. I’m trading for Ironman Lake Tahoe as a way to get fit for mountaineering. Is doing this enough fitness? 

I have asked this question here before. I still have not heard from anyone. I would hate to find out I don’t have enough fitness on the mountain.

Posted by: Will Beaubien on 2/9/2014 at 6:05 pm

Any opinions on CrossFit? I’m somewhat short on time and do this about four times a week. It’s fun. I also do a long endurance hike with weight 4+ hours once a week. I fight forest fires during the summer for the Forest Service and this is my off season training regime. I’m aiming to climb Rainier via the Kautz glacier or another similar route. Any suggestions for adding to or changing my training plan? Thanks!

Posted by: Tim on 10/13/2013 at 7:32 pm


Mt. Rainier: Summit Climb Teams on Top!

RMI Guide Peter Whittaker along with Ed Viesturs led a team of eight climbers to the summit of Mt. Rainier today. Peter reported light wind, great climbing conditions and a beautiful day on Mt. Rainier. All eight climbers in the party reached the summit. The Five Day Summit Climb led by Solveig Waterfall also topped out this morning with 100% of her team on the summit as well. Both teams were beginning their descent from the crater rim around 7:20 am. The teams will return to Camp Muir for a short break before descending down to Paradise and then to Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's Summit Climbers!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Awesome job Matt; I am so happy for you!  It looks like you had perfect conditions too.  I look forward to hearing about it when you get back.

Posted by: John Boyce on 6/26/2014 at 7:54 am

Well done Dave,Mike and team! Thanks Ed and Peter for keeping them safe:)

Posted by: Nat Turner on 6/26/2014 at 3:20 am


Vinson Massif: Hanging Out at Basecamp

Not so much to report today besides a good brunch and a fine dinner. Thick fog and cloud blanketed Vinson basecamp for much of the day. This made things predictably cool outside the tents and it was difficult to walk anywhere without feeling a touch of vertigo in the all-encompassing white-out. No news about the availability of aircraft either. Obviously not an urgent matter with the clouds glued into the Branscomb Glacier. Still, Vlado, TA, Mindy and I all enjoyed the day and will always remember where we were for the South Pole centennial. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Following you closly Vlado, thanks to Dave’s exelent reporting. Amazing,amazing, father is watching over you and we all are very proud of your achievments.
Stay safe for the rest of the expedition.
Cheers Maria, Lumir a Patrick

Posted by: Maria on 12/15/2011 at 10:34 am

So proud of you Mindy.  thinking about you everyday and your achievement.  Can’t wait to see all the glorious pictures.  You stay safe and know you are in our thoughts.  Missing you - but happy you are enjoying the challenge and sights. Love, Suz xoxo

Posted by: suzanne de maio on 12/15/2011 at 5:59 am


Carstensz Pyramid: Team Almost to Basecamp

The weather is beautiful today and our team is about 3 hours away from Basecamp. After we arrive, we’ll use the rest of the day for training and practice. We may try for the summit as early as tomorrow. Everyone is in good health, strong and excited for the summit attempt. We are presently in a valley where it’s difficult to get a signal but we will do our best to dispatch again soon. RMI Guides Alex Van Steen & Mark Tucker
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Your descriptions are amazing. Marshland at 11000 feet! Good luck, team - be safe and have fun.

Posted by: Mom/Grandma on 7/3/2012 at 5:37 am

excellent…...

Posted by: Rini Indyastuti on 7/3/2012 at 2:33 am


Torres del Paine: King & Team arrive at Lake Perros Camp

Our hike today was a gradual 1,200’ of vertical spread out over eight miles. We got some great views of the Dickson glacier and John Gardner pass. Most of the day was spent under a dense canopy of trees. The heat continues but with a breeze all day we weren’t inclined to go swimming in Lago Perros with it’s floating glacial ice bergs. This camp is well protected from the wind but we are anticipating some rain to begin tonight and might continue through tomorrow. We’ll get an early start in the morning due to the long day ascending and mostly descending from the pass. Wet/muddy trail will make it a more challenging day then it already is. Fingers crossed for clear skies tomorrow.

Thanks for checking in.

RMI Guide Mike King

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Aconcagua Expedition: Team Descends to Base Camp

After a great night of sleep, we slowly made our way down the mountain. The team was motivated and made quick work of the descent. Motivated by the thought of hot showers, delicious meals, and communicating with loved ones. A nice evening at Aconcagua Basecamp was had rehashing memorable moments of the trip. We are all very fond of the experience Aconcagua has allowed us to share together.

Till next time,

RMI Guide Luke Wilhelm

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Congratulations on what must have been a really challenging, yet incredibly rewarding journey. Can’t wait to see pictures and hear stories. Well done.

Posted by: Levert on 2/8/2022 at 5:34 am


Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Return to Punta Arenas

Excellent weather at Union Glacier this morning.  Our return flight to South America was never in question.  We ate huge breakfasts and then went back for seconds. There was a little easy packing and a little easy waiting, sprinkled through with meetings and reunions with climbers and guides and staff from other trips in other places.  The 757 landed in early afternoon with another load of Vinson hopeful climbers.  We got on board shortly afterwards.  There were excellent views of the Ellsworth Mountains east side, with Craddock, Vinson and Tyree standing out.  Then it was seatback movies and the drink and snack carts for the four hour flight.  We touched down in Punta Arenas around eight. My team was checked in to hotels and showered and ready for a celebration dinner by ten.  This is the easy part. 

Best Regards
RMI Guides Dave Hahn

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Mt. Baker Backcountry Ski & Ride Course

This weekend our Backcountry Ski and Ride course had an excellent time learning the fundamentals of backcountry skiing.  Saturday gave us a light dusting of fresh snow as we practiced our rescue skills and learned how to move as a group in the backcountry. 

The next day, we practiced making terrain decisions and students navigated the group through the ascents and descents of our long tour.  We ended up having beautiful weather for most of the course and had the whole mountain to ourselves on Sunday. 

Our students are excited to use their new skills for upcoming ski descents of local Washington mountains as well as skiing corn with their friends.  

RMI Guide James Bealer & Team

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Mt. Rainier: July Climber Recounts His Experience

With the summer climbing around here over and the leaves starting to change colors in Ashford we are taking a look back at this season's climbs. Check out this newspaper article about climber David Cox's 4 Day climb of Mt. Rainier. David reached the summit on July 27th with RMI Guides Mike Walter, Andy Bond, and Cody Doolan. Congratulations David, nice climbing and thanks for sharing the article!
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Hi Mike, Looks like your team is enjoying a lot more snow than last years team. I hope that you don,t have any long stays anywhere on denali. Good-luck to all of you. Ken Young “Denali team 2011”

Posted by: Ken Young on 5/20/2012 at 1:38 pm

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