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Carstensz Pyramid: Team Almost to Basecamp

July 2, 2012

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Carstensz Pyramid

The weather is beautiful today and our team is about 3 hours away from Basecamp. After we arrive, we’ll use the rest of the day for training and practice. We may try for the summit as early as tomorrow. Everyone is in good health, strong and excited for the summit attempt. We are presently in a valley where it’s difficult to get a signal but we will do our best to dispatch again soon. RMI Guides Alex Van Steen & Mark Tucker

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Your descriptions are amazing. Marshland at 11000 feet! Good luck, team - be safe and have fun.

Posted by: Mom/Grandma on 7/3/2012 at 5:37 am

excellent…...

Posted by: Rini Indyastuti on 7/3/2012 at 2:33 am

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Vinson Massif: Hanging Out at Basecamp

December 14, 2011

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif

Elevation: 7,200'

Not so much to report today besides a good brunch and a fine dinner. Thick fog and cloud blanketed Vinson basecamp for much of the day. This made things predictably cool outside the tents and it was difficult to walk anywhere without feeling a touch of vertigo in the all-encompassing white-out. No news about the availability of aircraft either. Obviously not an urgent matter with the clouds glued into the Branscomb Glacier. Still, Vlado, TA, Mindy and I all enjoyed the day and will always remember where we were for the South Pole centennial. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Following you closly Vlado, thanks to Dave’s exelent reporting. Amazing,amazing, father is watching over you and we all are very proud of your achievments.
Stay safe for the rest of the expedition.
Cheers Maria, Lumir a Patrick

Posted by: Maria on 12/15/2011 at 10:34 am

So proud of you Mindy. thinking about you everyday and your achievement. Can’t wait to see all the glorious pictures. You stay safe and know you are in our thoughts. Missing you - but happy you are enjoying the challenge and sights. Love, Suz xoxo

Posted by: suzanne de maio on 12/15/2011 at 5:59 am

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Mt. Everest Expedition: Off the Lhotse Face

May 21, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 21,000'

Update at 2 p.m. Nepalese Time (2:13 a.m. PST) The whole team is now off the Lhotse Face and headed toward Camp 2. Time to take a deep breath and figure the big part of the climb is over. Still have the Icefall tomorrow morning but like where we are at. Yeah! RMI Guide Mark Tucker

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Linden, you are the second Mallory to reach the top of everest; congrats. You’re the top!

Posted by: b lee on 5/22/2011 at 6:24 am

GO LINDEN… i am proud of you cuz- great guiding!!
Be safe :)

Posted by: Shelby Herrod on 5/21/2011 at 1:36 pm

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Mexico: Team Prepares for Ixta Summit Attempt

October 12, 2021

Posted by: Grayson Swingle

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico

Elevation: 15,500'

Hello from 15,500ft on Ixta! The team did an impressive job carrying heavy loads up to our high camp today. Sunny skies and upbeat attitudes made for a great day in the mountains.

Our camp is above the clouds for now with only a light breeze. We have spectacular views of the Volcano Popocatepetl (17,800ft) to our south. Popo is an active volcano that spits out plumes of Ash from time to time which is fun to watch.

Tonight we will eat an early dinner and crawl into bed to get some shut eye before an early start to our summit attempt tomorrow. Looking forward to seeing the massive sprawl of city lights from both Mexico City and Puebla thousands of feet below.

RMI Guide Grayson Swingle

Mt. Everest Expedition: Bill McGahan’s Basecamp Observations

April 14, 2011

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

The last few days have been filled with training, climbing and socializing around our Base Camp. A few observations: 1. Everest Base Camp has now swelled to about 350 people, with all the corresponding tents and equipment. It is massive, and it takes up acres and acres of space on top of a moving glacier. In addition, Everest BC is visited each day by organized groups of trekkers who hike up from Lukla to see the place (and the show). The glacier is not flat, but is a series of small undulations in the moving ice (which is mostly covered with rocks). Yesterday during a training run we climbed a portion of the way up the Khumbu Icefall and, from close to 18,000 feet, we got to see the entire camp. What a sight! 2. Socializing. Last night our group invited over the Base Camp doctors for dinner. The head physician has been running the Base Camp medical clinic for 9 years, so she was well known to Dave Hahn (who, again, seems to know everyone). The Base Camp doctors are incredibly knowledgeable about high altitude illnesses, and their presence in camp has no doubt saved many lives. They are here to treat everyone, including climbers, climbing Sherpas, porters, and trekkers (and anyone else). The ten of us had a great meal, and then played speed scrabble (which encouraged the use of slang words), and then Apples to Apples. As an aside, we all learned some interesting slang words from the different nationalities (Scotland, Nepal, etc.). Sara McGahan even threw in some slang used by 10th graders. I know that I learned quite a bit. 3. It is up to a group of incredibly courageous and talented Sherpas to fix line up Mt. Everest each year through one of the most dangerous parts of the climb - the Khumbu Icefall. These folks - called "Icefall Doctors" - are employed directly by the national park and are paid out of the fees the climbers pay to access the mountain. The Khumbu Icefall is the section of Mt. Everest that is between Basecamp and Camp I, and it is extremely dangerous because it is ever shifting as the glacier slowly moves ahead and tumbles down the mountain, and also because it is susceptible to avalanches from surrounding peaks. When shifting or an avalanche takes place, massive amounts of solid ice moves (and you don't want to be anywhere in the neighborhood when it happens). The Icefall Doctors also place ladders across huge crevasses and rope up steep sections of the Icefall, which is used by climbers to pull themselves up the mountain, but, as importantly, to "clip into" for safety. There would be literally no way for a climber of my capability to climb this mountain without the Icefall Doctors. They are amazing people. 4. In the incredibly capable hands of our lead guide Dave Hahn, Sara and I have been climbing around Base Camp in order to do two things: 1) continue to acclimatize, and 2) work on the skills that we need to move quickly up the mountain. One of the greatest dangers that we face on Everest is avalanches, and speed is one of our best ways to minimize our danger. We are working hard to be able to move quickly and safely though the icefall. We need to be able to breathe (this always helps!) and to have a comfort level on ladders and fixed line. Dave has spent days with us helping us with these skills, and we will be continuing to work on them in the days ahead. Only then will we venture up to higher places on the mountain. 5. Fun. One of the reasons that trekkers and climbers alike come to Base Camp is that it is a fun place. Every day people come by to socialize with us. Mark Tucker (our Base Camp manager) is always ready with some kind of game. Mark and I teamed up to win a horse shoe throwing contest, and the other night we had a poker tournament (Texas hold em) with guides from other groups. We have also played golf on the frozen ponds on the icefall, with yours truly hitting a hole in one, much to the chagrin of Mr. Tucker (it earned me 50 rupees - ha!). So, there is always something going on, with people coming and going, and it is one of my favorite things about climbing. The people are adventurous, interesting, international, and fun loving - the best people in the world in my opinion. So, thanks for following our blog. We are working hard and will have more to report in the days ahead. Bill M.

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hi bill and sara. I love reading your blog each morning. best of luck to you both! love, becca

Posted by: becca newton on 4/15/2011 at 6:53 am

Keep the blogs coming. My 8-year old daughter and I are really enjoying your posts and pictures. Good luck to Bill, Sara, and the rest of the climbers. Hope you reach the top and stay safe.

Posted by: E.Black on 4/14/2011 at 7:56 pm

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Mt. Shuksan: Seminar Team Summit in Perfect Style

September 17, 2022

Posted by: Alan Davis, Jack Delaney, Leif Bergstrom

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

Elevation: 9,131'

Our Mt. Shuksan seminar tagged the top of Mt. Shuksan this morning. After many days of training in the rain, the team awoke to clear skies for their climb. The previous five days were spent learning about rope travel, weather patterns, avalanche safety, snow and ice anchors, etc. RMI Guide Alan Davis reported great route conditions and a top out time of 9:30am.

The team is back at the trailhead and will enjoy some good food and drink before starting their journey home.

Nice work climbers!

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Mt. Rainier: Haugen & Kautz Seminar Team Climb and Train, Reach 11,000’

June 15, 2022

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Henry Coppolillo, Seth Burns, Jess Wedel

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 11,000'

RMI Guide Mike Haugen and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team have returned from the mountain. The team spent three nights on the mountain and were able to do a lot of great training. The reached 11,000' before deciding to turn around due to poor route conditions and high avalanche danger. The team descended to Paradise and is back at Rainier BaseCamp to celebrate their accomplishment and close down their program.

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Mt. Shuksan: Coppolillo and Team Summit

August 20, 2022

Posted by: Henry Coppolillo, Kiira Antenucci, Lauren Macklin

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

Elevation: 9,131'

RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo and team had a successful climb of Mt. Shuksan yesterday. After a hazy morning wake-up call, the team ascended the Sulphide glacier and enjoyed some Class 4 scrambling on the summit pyramid before topping out yesterday. The team has made it back to the trailhead and team members are on their way home.

Nice work team!

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Mt. Baker - Easton Glacier: Westling, Bealer and Team stand on top

July 17, 2022

Posted by: James Bealer, Abby Westling, George Hedreen, Brian Walters

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

Elevation: 10,781'

RMI Guides Abby Westling, James Bealer, and teams stood atop Mt. Baker yesterday. After waiting out the rain all night, they departed camp in the morning and enjoyed the daylight during their ascent. The teams made it back to camp yesterday evening to enjoy dinner and some well-deserved rest. They will walk out of camp today.

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Kilimanjaro: Grom & Team Hit the Trail to Barranco Camp

September 1, 2022

Posted by: Casey Grom

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro

Elevation: 13,030'

Howdy everyone back home.

All is well in Tanzania. We’ve had great weather and the team is humming along really well.

We hit the trail just after 8am and hiked for an hour before taking our usual 15 minute break, then back on the trail for another hour and so on. All total today we hiked for just over six hours before reaching Barranco Camp. Our gracious Kilimanjaro porters have been working very hard and we arrive once again to a camp set up and ready for us.

Along the way we passed around the famous Lava Tower reaching just over 15,000' setting new altitude records for many. We also passed by many of the giant groundsels and towering Senecio trees that made us feel as if we were in some crazy Dr. Suess story.

The team is in good spirits and doing great.

RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Kili crew

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Karl, Derek,
Congrats to the Summit!!!! What an achievement! Cheers! Jack & Mary

Posted by: Jack on 9/4/2022 at 6:48 am

To Eric: We all look forward to reading the updates each day and can’t wait to hear all about the trek! We miss you and love you. Stay safe.

Posted by: Vicki Sutton-Beattie on 9/2/2022 at 9:36 am

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