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Aconcagua Expedition: Team Descends to Base Camp

February 7, 2022

Posted by: Luke Wilhelm, David Price

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 14,400'

After a great night of sleep, we slowly made our way down the mountain. The team was motivated and made quick work of the descent. Motivated by the thought of hot showers, delicious meals, and communicating with loved ones. A nice evening at Aconcagua Basecamp was had rehashing memorable moments of the trip. We are all very fond of the experience Aconcagua has allowed us to share together.

Till next time,

RMI Guide Luke Wilhelm

Mountaineering Training | First Steps: Thinking About Your Training Plan

October 1, 2012

Posted by:

Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training

I'll never forget the day I decided to be a mountain climber. I was sixteen years old, sitting in a lecture hall at Edinburgh University - captivated by the slideshow being presented by the famous British Expedition Leader, Sir Chris Bonnington and his climbing partner Doug Scott. After it ended I got myself to the front and spoke to the man himself asking, "How do you begin to start to plan an expedition?" "Just get your boots on, Lad", was the reply, accompanied by a larger-than-life grin and a firm handshake. I had no response. However, that one comment led to many climbs the Scottish Highlands - and ultimately - onto years of expeditions, mountain climbing including a long stint as a guide. It's been a long and satisfying adventure so far! I think that after the decision to climb Mt. Rainier or any other major mountain, there ought be a celebratory moment: a pause to mark the start of the preparation and to consider what the months ahead will look like. The climb may be a long way out, but the adventure starts now. What are some considerations at this point? I recommend taking an inventory of the following: - Time - Equipment - Fitness & Health - Location & available resources Time: What time do I have to train? Be realistic about how many hours per week and also consider any vacation time in the months ahead. Is there a day (or half day) each week you can devote to training? What can you do on a daily basis? Can you combine training and a commute? Walk to work with a pack? Ride a bike? Equipment: Will you be renting or will you likely need some gear of your own? To begin your training, all you'll need now are shoes, boots, a backpack and workout/hiking clothes. And going forward, there'll be good time to experiment with socks, layering and other clothing. Depending where you live (anyone reading this from Chicago or the northern states?), you might get some good use of cold-weather gear this winter during your training. Fitness & Health: In next week's blog post we'll discuss how to set a baseline. Now is a good time to think about your strengths and any areas you want to improve. In terms of health, this might be a good time to schedule an annual physical examination, to visit the dentist, to take a look at your overall diet, and to generally consider what your athletic lifestyle will look like going forwards. Location and Available Resources: A climber can train for mountaineering anywhere. However, if you are living in Florida, stationed on a military base halfway around the world, or getting ready for a northern winter, some creativity and imagination will make things more successful. In terms of resources at hand, do you have access to hiking trails? Are there hills? Can you get to a gym or have access to a stair-master or elliptical machine? Do you have a place at home, work, or school where you can workout? Is there a local yoga class, training facility, spin class, or swimming pool? Do you even like any of these activities? Do you have a workout partner, a fitness coach, or a personal trainer? We'll discuss program design over the next few weeks. For now, a little time considering all of the options available will spark your imagination as to what is going to work for you. I've always thought that the best fitness program is the one you actually do. Personally, I like to enjoy my training and I like there to be variety and somewhat of a social aspect to it all. You'll be putting in some hours and days of preparation over the months ahead and making it as fun and interesting as possible will boost results. Your climb is months away, yet the adventure has already begun. Congratulations on getting started! - John Colver John Colver is a longtime climber, former mountain guide, and certified personal trainer with the American Council of Exercise. Colver introduced outdoor fitness classes to athletic clubs throughout the greater Puget Sound region before creating his adventX brand. Currently, adventX leads training programs in Seattle and Colver presents clinics on outdoor fitness at companies such as Microsoft, Boeing, the American Lung Association, and REI. Colver lives in Seattle.

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I have some big mountaineering goals. I’m not sure how much training and fitness is necessary. I’m trading for Ironman Lake Tahoe as a way to get fit for mountaineering. Is doing this enough fitness?

I have asked this question here before. I still have not heard from anyone. I would hate to find out I don’t have enough fitness on the mountain.

Posted by: Will Beaubien on 2/9/2014 at 6:05 pm

Any opinions on CrossFit? I’m somewhat short on time and do this about four times a week. It’s fun. I also do a long endurance hike with weight 4+ hours once a week. I fight forest fires during the summer for the Forest Service and this is my off season training regime. I’m aiming to climb Rainier via the Kautz glacier or another similar route. Any suggestions for adding to or changing my training plan? Thanks!

Posted by: Tim on 10/13/2013 at 7:32 pm

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Kilimanjaro: Okita and Team Gather in Tanzania

July 18, 2022

Posted by: Brent Okita

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro

Our first day got off to a successful and fun start. For one, after 2 1/2 days of flight delays and less than stellar performance by my airline, I finally arrived in Arusha in time for our team meeting and a little breakfast. Our last two teammates got to the hotel just as we were beginning our orientation. Everyone's baggage even made it!

It was fun getting to know everybody and I think we all agree we have a pretty fun group. With equipment checks all done and a great dinner we're excited to get underway and start making our way up this beautiful mountain.

Sunrise on the mountain from 25,000' this morning has done nothing but pump me up to start our climb of Kilimanjaro. We're ready!!!

--RMI Guide Brent Okita and team

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Joe and I are amazed again at you! Have a great trip with Nick!

Posted by: Terry DeCola on 7/21/2022 at 9:46 am

Hi Norm! We are at the Qatar airport in Doha. All is well and everyone is doing fine! We all miss you guys and hope you’re having a wonderful time! We love you! XO Val, Christian, and Jess

Posted by: Valerie Cognetto on 7/21/2022 at 8:04 am

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Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Return to Punta Arenas

December 8, 2021

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif

Excellent weather at Union Glacier this morning. Our return flight to South America was never in question. We ate huge breakfasts and then went back for seconds. There was a little easy packing and a little easy waiting, sprinkled through with meetings and reunions with climbers and guides and staff from other trips in other places. The 757 landed in early afternoon with another load of Vinson hopeful climbers. We got on board shortly afterwards. There were excellent views of the Ellsworth Mountains east side, with Craddock, Vinson and Tyree standing out. Then it was seatback movies and the drink and snack carts for the four hour flight. We touched down in Punta Arenas around eight. My team was checked in to hotels and showered and ready for a celebration dinner by ten. This is the easy part.

Best Regards
RMI Guides Dave Hahn

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Mt. Shuksan: Seminar Team Summit in Perfect Style

September 17, 2022

Posted by: Alan Davis, Jack Delaney, Leif Bergstrom

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

Elevation: 9,131'

Our Mt. Shuksan seminar tagged the top of Mt. Shuksan this morning. After many days of training in the rain, the team awoke to clear skies for their climb. The previous five days were spent learning about rope travel, weather patterns, avalanche safety, snow and ice anchors, etc. RMI Guide Alan Davis reported great route conditions and a top out time of 9:30am.

The team is back at the trailhead and will enjoy some good food and drink before starting their journey home.

Nice work climbers!

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Torres del Paine: King & Team arrive at Lake Perros Camp

February 24, 2022

Posted by: Mike King

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Torres del Paine

Elevation: 1,859'

Our hike today was a gradual 1,200’ of vertical spread out over eight miles. We got some great views of the Dickson glacier and John Gardner pass. Most of the day was spent under a dense canopy of trees. The heat continues but with a breeze all day we weren’t inclined to go swimming in Lago Perros with it’s floating glacial ice bergs. This camp is well protected from the wind but we are anticipating some rain to begin tonight and might continue through tomorrow. We’ll get an early start in the morning due to the long day ascending and mostly descending from the pass. Wet/muddy trail will make it a more challenging day then it already is. Fingers crossed for clear skies tomorrow.

Thanks for checking in.

RMI Guide Mike King

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Denali Expedition: Champion and Team enjoy Rest Day, Hope for Move to High Camp

June 6, 2022

Posted by: Nikki Champion, Taylor Bickford, Emma Lyddan

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 6 - 4:50 PT

Another beautiful morning for a rest day. Woke up with the sun to a filling meal of breakfast burritos. Weather is looking more optimistic, so we are taking today to rest, prep and pack with the hopes of moving to high camp tomorrow. Otherwise, a generally quiet day at 14 camp.

Hope to check in from 17,000' feet tomorrow!

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

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Keep up the great work Aaron and Lori Stafford. We continue to read the updates as they come through, praying you have a successful and safe expedition.

The Penrose Family

Posted by: Will Penrose on 6/7/2022 at 9:50 am

So anxious for you to summit…and get home. Can’t believe your good weather. What are you doing while resting? Great weekend at TOC. Make your own pizza on the Boardwalk with 4 little pizza ovens going. Eat your heart out Little Caesar’s! Then, a Bocci tournament with Bellinis. It got chilly, so I provided the blankets. All is well with your house. Love you.

Posted by: Emigh Litch on 6/7/2022 at 5:38 am

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Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Foiled by the Weather Again

December 3, 2021

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif

Elevation: 9,300'

The weather came around today, but not quite in time for us to make good use of it. The skies had cleared of cloud but at noon there was still wind whipping snow off the high ridges and peaks. We didn’t want to chance having to battle such a wind for the final hours into high camp and for the time needed to build that camp. So we got ready, but we waited for improvement. The winds did diminish but not convincingly enough for us to pull the trigger. The teams around us did go for it and seem to have done just fine, although now, at 9:45 PM there is still wind visible in the high camp area. We’re going to put our efforts into these next two days, Saturday and Sunday, for which the forecast is fine. We have the place to ourselves… not entirely by design, but the quiet is nice.

We’ll set alarms tonight for 4:44 AM… not for an alpine start to the climbing -which would be quite cold- but to catch the solar eclipse. At the time of totality, Mt Vinson will be squarely between us and a view of the sun, but perhaps we’ll see stars -a rarity in an Antarctic summer (like never).

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

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Mt. Everest Expedition: Bill McGahan’s Basecamp Observations

April 14, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

The last few days have been filled with training, climbing and socializing around our Base Camp. A few observations: 1. Everest Base Camp has now swelled to about 350 people, with all the corresponding tents and equipment. It is massive, and it takes up acres and acres of space on top of a moving glacier. In addition, Everest BC is visited each day by organized groups of trekkers who hike up from Lukla to see the place (and the show). The glacier is not flat, but is a series of small undulations in the moving ice (which is mostly covered with rocks). Yesterday during a training run we climbed a portion of the way up the Khumbu Icefall and, from close to 18,000 feet, we got to see the entire camp. What a sight! 2. Socializing. Last night our group invited over the Base Camp doctors for dinner. The head physician has been running the Base Camp medical clinic for 9 years, so she was well known to Dave Hahn (who, again, seems to know everyone). The Base Camp doctors are incredibly knowledgeable about high altitude illnesses, and their presence in camp has no doubt saved many lives. They are here to treat everyone, including climbers, climbing Sherpas, porters, and trekkers (and anyone else). The ten of us had a great meal, and then played speed scrabble (which encouraged the use of slang words), and then Apples to Apples. As an aside, we all learned some interesting slang words from the different nationalities (Scotland, Nepal, etc.). Sara McGahan even threw in some slang used by 10th graders. I know that I learned quite a bit. 3. It is up to a group of incredibly courageous and talented Sherpas to fix line up Mt. Everest each year through one of the most dangerous parts of the climb - the Khumbu Icefall. These folks - called "Icefall Doctors" - are employed directly by the national park and are paid out of the fees the climbers pay to access the mountain. The Khumbu Icefall is the section of Mt. Everest that is between Basecamp and Camp I, and it is extremely dangerous because it is ever shifting as the glacier slowly moves ahead and tumbles down the mountain, and also because it is susceptible to avalanches from surrounding peaks. When shifting or an avalanche takes place, massive amounts of solid ice moves (and you don't want to be anywhere in the neighborhood when it happens). The Icefall Doctors also place ladders across huge crevasses and rope up steep sections of the Icefall, which is used by climbers to pull themselves up the mountain, but, as importantly, to "clip into" for safety. There would be literally no way for a climber of my capability to climb this mountain without the Icefall Doctors. They are amazing people. 4. In the incredibly capable hands of our lead guide Dave Hahn, Sara and I have been climbing around Base Camp in order to do two things: 1) continue to acclimatize, and 2) work on the skills that we need to move quickly up the mountain. One of the greatest dangers that we face on Everest is avalanches, and speed is one of our best ways to minimize our danger. We are working hard to be able to move quickly and safely though the icefall. We need to be able to breathe (this always helps!) and to have a comfort level on ladders and fixed line. Dave has spent days with us helping us with these skills, and we will be continuing to work on them in the days ahead. Only then will we venture up to higher places on the mountain. 5. Fun. One of the reasons that trekkers and climbers alike come to Base Camp is that it is a fun place. Every day people come by to socialize with us. Mark Tucker (our Base Camp manager) is always ready with some kind of game. Mark and I teamed up to win a horse shoe throwing contest, and the other night we had a poker tournament (Texas hold em) with guides from other groups. We have also played golf on the frozen ponds on the icefall, with yours truly hitting a hole in one, much to the chagrin of Mr. Tucker (it earned me 50 rupees - ha!). So, there is always something going on, with people coming and going, and it is one of my favorite things about climbing. The people are adventurous, interesting, international, and fun loving - the best people in the world in my opinion. So, thanks for following our blog. We are working hard and will have more to report in the days ahead. Bill M.

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hi bill and sara. I love reading your blog each morning. best of luck to you both! love, becca

Posted by: becca newton on 4/15/2011 at 6:53 am

Keep the blogs coming. My 8-year old daughter and I are really enjoying your posts and pictures. Good luck to Bill, Sara, and the rest of the climbers. Hope you reach the top and stay safe.

Posted by: E.Black on 4/14/2011 at 7:56 pm

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Kilimanjaro: Grom & Team Hit the Trail to Barranco Camp

September 1, 2022

Posted by: Casey Grom

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro

Elevation: 13,030'

Howdy everyone back home.

All is well in Tanzania. We’ve had great weather and the team is humming along really well.

We hit the trail just after 8am and hiked for an hour before taking our usual 15 minute break, then back on the trail for another hour and so on. All total today we hiked for just over six hours before reaching Barranco Camp. Our gracious Kilimanjaro porters have been working very hard and we arrive once again to a camp set up and ready for us.

Along the way we passed around the famous Lava Tower reaching just over 15,000' setting new altitude records for many. We also passed by many of the giant groundsels and towering Senecio trees that made us feel as if we were in some crazy Dr. Suess story.

The team is in good spirits and doing great.

RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Kili crew

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Karl, Derek,
Congrats to the Summit!!!! What an achievement! Cheers! Jack & Mary

Posted by: Jack on 9/4/2022 at 6:48 am

To Eric: We all look forward to reading the updates each day and can’t wait to hear all about the trek! We miss you and love you. Stay safe.

Posted by: Vicki Sutton-Beattie on 9/2/2022 at 9:36 am

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