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Posted by: JT Schmitt, Alex Halliday
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
Due to avalanche activity, the Four Day Climb with RMI Guides JT Schmitt and Alex Halliday did not climb above Camp Muir this morning. The mountain received 8+" of new snow yesterday afternoon and there were numerous slides on the Cowlitz Glacier with several going over the trail. In the first picture, you can see evidence of avalanche debris that has been deposited along the first steps of the route.
The team has started their descent and will back at Ashford Basecamp early this afternoon.
Sara,
For weeks I’ve been clicking on this box and trying to come up with something inspiring or helpful to say to you. Unfortunately, surprise, I’ve realized that there probably isn’t that one perfect thing that’s going to help you through this but I can say this: If there was anyone in the world that I would say could climb mount Everest and make it to the top (I know, i don’t have the climbing lingo down yet) it would be you. Not only are you strong (I mean, we’ve all seen those chiseled abs hehe) but you’re also brave, sweet and amazingly humble. Heck, if I were climbing mount Everest, they’d probably have to get an extra harness for my big fat egotistical head! hehe. Though I have to say, just bragging about how I have a friend as cool as you is enough for me. But really, I look up to you Sara, you’re everything a person could want to be and I know it’s getting hard and it’s probably only harder from here, but remember that you’re already remarkable no matter what happens. And as much as I’d like to fly up there with a cosmo and a beach towel in hand, all I can really say is that I wish you the best, you’re one of the most astonishing people I know, and from my heart to yours, I know you can do this.
With love always,
Gigi
Posted by: Gigi Abcarian on 5/13/2011 at 1:58 am
SAYYYSS!! I can’t stop thinking about you!! every step is closer to your dream and closer to coming back to us!! so hunker down and stay strong. WE ALL LOVE YOU SO MUCH
Posted by: Ans on 5/9/2011 at 7:57 am
On The Map
Posted by: Mike King, Camille Leininger, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'
RMI Guide Mike King and the Mt. Baker Coleman Deming July 20 - 22 team reached the summit this morning. Mike reported a cold and windy day with firm conditions on the Roman Headwall. The team returned to camp shortly after 11 am. After packing up camp they descended to the trail head and concluded their program.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Josh McDowell
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14, 410'
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Josh McDowell reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 6:45 am. Pete reported clear skies, calm winds of about 5 mph, and a good route with easy walking. It took the team 5 hours and 45 minutes to get from Camp Muir to the Summit.
Congratulations Team!
Checking in from 13,000ft on Ixta. Today the team is preparing our equipment for our trip up to high camp (15,500ft) on Ixta. We are enjoying a beautiful sunset to the west with glorious views of Ixta to the North. The mountain has fresh snow above 15,500ft.
Tomorrow will be a challenging day with heavier packs, but our team is looking strong. As we watch the sunset, we are eating a delicious meal prepared by our wonderful local staff!
Wish us luck for continuing good weather and hopefully a successful summit of Ixta 17,100ft!
We will check in from our high camp tomorrow.
On The Map
We’ll have those fresh squeezed margies waiting for you on your return!!
xo, Jean and Lily
Posted by: Jean Richards on 4/25/2012 at 4:43 pm
Posted by: Mike King
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Torres del Paine
We had a nice short day today. The sun was out and made for the quick 4 1/2 hour hike. We are back in Puerto Natales and looking forward to a nice dinner and some story telling from the eight days in Patagonia. Thanks for following along.
Way to go, team! Thinking of you all the time up at Camp 2 and beyond.
Saw Katie’s second LAX game against Holy Innocents on a gorgeous Saturday. She is such a trooper and it was a tough loss. Have to catch more games in the coming weeks.
Be safe and take our love with you.
Posted by: Mom / Grandma on 5/2/2011 at 6:52 am
News from the home front I thought you would want to hear….. Osama bin Laden has been killed by US forces in Pakistan. They have just announced tonight at 10:30 PM. Stay safe!!!!!! xxoo Stacey
Posted by: Stacey on 5/1/2011 at 8:29 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Lindsay Mann
Categories: Guide News
The next morning we woke up to partly cloudy skies and the realization that a 44-foot sailboat is a tight space for ski gear, sailing gear, and eight people. After organizing our gear in waves, we left the boat with skis on our packs and walked toward a favorite local ski touring peak. Successfully navigating the Svolvaer neighborhoods, we finally reached snow. With climbing skins on our skis we began our ascent up the south side of a peak named Blåtind. Partway up the mountain, it began to rain and visibility dwindled. Too excited to turn back on our first day of ski touring, we decided to continue. A few minutes after reaching the saddle on Blåtind the sun came out and we focused our attention on a ski line on east side of the peak. The conditions were spring corn snow. After a close to 2,000’ descent we put our skins back on and toured along the water to the nearest road where we hailed a taxi back to the sailboat.
The following morning we set sail to the Trollfjord. The Trollfjord is an area accessible to skiers only by boat. With our sails up and Katie Van Deventer at the helm, we sailed to the entrance of the Trollfjord - a dauntingly narrow waterway surrounded by steep walls. We docked amid howling winds and a mix of rain and snow. Reaching the TrollfjordHyatta, a cabin in the Norweigan Hut System, would have to wait until the next day.
We woke to improved weather and loaded our ski gear and a night’s worth of food onto the dock. The boat sailed away promising to return the following afternoon and we spent the morning skinning to the TrollfjordHyatta. The hut turned out to be a small majestic wooden cabin surrounded by peaks in every direction. Inspired by the mountains around us, we headed out to ski Peak 975. We had great views of our climb ahead and discussed our route and ski options. After an hour the terrain became too steep to skin. With skis on our packs, and clouds rolling in, we reached the top of Peak 975. Since the light was flat we used our bootpack to guide us as we skied down the same route we ascended. The visibility improved and we were reminded of the natural beauty of the Trollfjord. Taking advantage of the good weather we added a few laps to finish our day on a smaller peak just above the cabin. From there we could see the dramatic entrance to the Trollfjord and the unlimited ski options for the following day. The night in the hut was filled with wine, laughs, and Ludo, a Norweigan board game. In the morning we were able to get a few runs in on some steep north facing chutes before returning to dock where we met the boat.
As we sailed away, inspired by the endless quantity of peaks around us, we discussed the multitude of ski options for the day and remainder of the trip. The next few days were unlike any trip I have known. The terrain and sailboat allowed for ultimate flexibility. If the weather was good, we would ski; if the weather was marginal, we would set sail waiting for the conditions to change. Once we decided upon a peak the question then became: how do we get to shore?
This was often time and energy consuming. We would either dock the boat or, if that wasn’t an option, we would get ashore via dinghy. If we went by dinghy Frederik, our captain, shuttled us and our gear ashore while Iselin, the assistant captain, handled the sailboat. From the dock or shore we would skin or walk a few miles to a skiable peak, climb and ski it, and make our way back to the boat. This sometimes meant walking, other times we were able to ski within a few hundred meters of the boat. Other times it meant taking a cab to where the boat was docked. Each day was a new adventure with a new set of options.
As the days passed, the weather improved and we finally had the perfect Norweigan ski descent on the last day of the trip. For the first time during our adventure we woke up to bluebird skies and decided to ski a peak called Storgalten. Upon reaching the top of the peak could see mountains, water, and our sailboat. Thrilled with the descent, Pete, Katie and Magnus celebrated it with a plunge into the fjord. We then set sail back to Harstad, our final destination, with Storgalten still in view. Weeks later, I’m still amazed by the diversity and accessibility of the terrain found in the Lofoten Islands. I have been lucky enough to ski and climb in mountains all over this world and this trip was truly unique. What made it all the more special to me was being able to share it with my father and a group of close friends that got along seamlessly on a 44-foot sailboat for seven days.
Looks awesome!! Such I tough life you guys have!!
Posted by: Dan Brockway on 6/12/2013 at 10:28 am
This. Looks. Amazing.
Posted by: Sarah on 6/11/2013 at 10:36 am
Happy Birthday to my son Davis!
Posted by: Sherry Yonge on 6/18/2022 at 1:58 pm
8+’ ? Surely that’s in inches! Let’s all hope the weather improves and parties stay safe.
Posted by: David on 6/18/2022 at 11:25 am
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