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Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
We are off the mountain! After a 4 am start and a nearly ten mile slog with heavy packs and sleds, we made it to the base camp airstrip with beautiful flying weather. We waited for a short time before the first of the planes came to shuttle us to Talkeetna and civilization. When we arrived in Talkeetna to dark clouds and rain, but we were all just excited to get a hot shower and food that did not need to be rehydrated. We want to thank all of our team members for their incredible attitudes and hard work that this trip successful. Also, thank you to all of our friends and family for your support. Your blog comments kept us entertained as well as focused on the task at hand!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
Howdy, from the Kahiltna.
Today we made more progress moving nearly all our groceries, gas, and cold weather climbing equipment up to 10k just below Kahiltna Pass. The team climbed strong and moved very efficiently completing the big carry in just five hours round trip - not bad considering the 6ft+ deep hole we needed to dig to fit 15 days of food, gallons of gas and extra personal equipment for our 12-man crew. The weather was in our favor with nice travel temperatures and overcast skies that quickly turned to moderate snow just moments after our team's arrival back to camp just below Ski Hill. With a bit of remission of the snow tomorrow we'll pack camp and move to 11k, where the crampons and ice axes come out and the steeper climbing at altitude kicks in. We will update you again soon.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
It's been a long day that started in the wee hours of the morning. The alarm sounded about 2 hours after I sent our last dispatch. 2:00 am was a harsh hour of the day to begin our final walk out the Kahiltna Glacier, but essential to safely navigate and cross the crevasses on our way to the airstrip.
At that time the day is about as dark as it gets, which is to say it's about as dark as 1/2 hour after dusk, perhaps. Combined with cloudy, overcast weather, I wasn't entirely psyched for the walk out. But, as the morning developed things began looking brighter. We finally started off at 4:20 am and initially encountered great walking conditions. Unfortunately, as we lost elevation the snow became softer and softer, having not frozen hard overnight because of the cloud cover holding the earth's heat in. This resulted in a few minor crevasse 'falls' where some individuals broke through crevasse bridges up to their waste at most. Of course, by the time you hear their stories, these crevasse falls will have taken on epic proportions. (A night at the bar can have the same effect)
Well, we finally arrived at Base Camp with our weather outlook improving and hopes to be flown off in short order high in everyone's mind. Unfortunately, Mother Nature had something else in store for us, as it's now evening and raining out. Although comfy and snug in our tents, and happy we're not enduring a big storm up high, we of course would rather be back in Talkeetna, and a little closer to you.
Hope to see you soon!
RMI Guides Brent, Leon and Maile
We are starting to talk about dinner reservations in South America. But realistically speaking, those would be for tomorrow night, since there is a good chance we will be flying back to Punta Arenas during prime dining hours tonight.
Yesterday was spent quietly sitting in the "Guide Tent" with the 25 Vinson climbers, chatting, reading, eating and passing time. The weather wasn't horrible, but neither was it any good for flying, with low cloud and poor contrast prevailing. Today is a different story, which actually defies the forecasts... It is sunny and calm and the ALE folk have "called the flight" Meaning that the Illyusion 76 is being put through its final preparations and it may be off deck and headed our way within the next two hours.
I'll let you know of our progress.
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
After such a massive and intensely challenging day as our summit bid, today was cruiser... and downhill cruising at that. We woke at 6 AM in the forest, commenting to one another that 10,000 feet was sure an easier altitude for sleeping than 15,000. We enjoyed one last excellent breakfast on the mountain and came out into the morning sunshine for the "gratitude ceremony". Our entire fifty-man staff assembled and began singing. They danced and clapped through the Jambo song, and the Bomba song, then assistant cook Benson took them -laughing- through the Churra song. The laughing became uncontrollable when Peter showed his Minnesota dance moves. Then we did a few small speeches and handed gratuities to each of the staff along with handshakes and “Asante Sanas”. We thanked them very much for helping and befriending us. Minutes later, at 8 AM, we were on the trail and heading down into the rain forest. It took just a few hours to walk carefully down the four thousand vertical feet of slippery trail past some giant trees and a few Colobus monkeys. We shared the track with porters from a number of other expeditions, running at top speed with big loads balanced on their heads. Everybody was ready for the finish. The gang assembled for a final group picture at the Mweka Gate trail sign around 11 AM. Then we dutifully lined up to sign the park service ledger and loaded onto our bus for a short ride to a picnic area. Tosha and our camp waiters, John, Alfredy and Damien, served us an excellent lunch out in the strong sunshine. We said our goodbyes and got on the bus for the big (2.5 hour) ride through the Tanzanian countryside back to Usa River and our lodge. Folks were understandably ready for showers and internet and an easy afternoon of getting ready for Safari. We celebrated over a victory dinner, outside with the monkeys and Dik Diks. The Arumeru staff honored the team with a surprise cake and a song. Finally, we did our toasts and our goodbyes to Joe, who’ll be winging his way home tomorrow while we continue the adventure.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
It is a rest day for Team 1 on Mt. Elbrus. I wish I had some really exciting things to report. However, rest days are filled with the continual search to beat the boredom of camp life. Activities like cards, dice, reading, people watching, drinking coffee, eating food, etc...are a few of the things we have partaken in so far today.
I'm not gonna jinx it but our summit day tomorrow may require a constant supply of sunscreen and cooling mist machines! It's normal for team members to be a little nervous before summit day. But I'm telling ya...if I were to place a Las Vegas bet, it would be 100% to the top.
Wish us luck!
RMI Guide JJ Justman
On The Map
Looks like it will be more fry than freeze. Good Luck with the summit bid! You always get 100% to the top.
Posted by: elsie on 7/8/2013 at 5:32 am
Way to go! You did it!
And thank God for the weather.
Posted by: Julie Marx on 7/8/2013 at 5:17 am
Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by Casey Grom and Billy Nugent stood on the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. It was breezy cold morning but clear. All nine members of Casey's team made it to the summit. Both teams are doing well and have started their descent back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations Casey, Billy, and Teams!
Our Four Day Summit Climb teams led by Billy Nugent and Gabriel Barral reached the top of Mt. Rainier today. They climbed into a cloud cap that greeted them with strong winds and cold temperatures. The teams started their descent back to Camp Muir at about 8:01am PST.
Our Emmons Expedition Skills Seminar team led by Dan Windham check it at 12:52pm PST today from Camp Schurman. The team headed out for their summit attempt at about 7:00am PST in hopes that the rain and wind they experienced at camp would die down. The team was able to reach an elevation of 12,000' but decided to turn back due to poor visibility, strong winds and heavy snow. The team will continue training and plan on being back at Rainier Basecamp tomorrow afternoon.
Congratulations to today's teams.
The clouds cleared last night after dinner and for an hour or so we sat in the evening light at 11 Camp, watching the cloud bank below us race through Kahiltna Pass and over Kahiltna Dome, a peak across the valley from 11 Camp. Unfortunately the improved conditions did not persist and when we woke up this morning we were back in the clouds with a light snow falling. After a quick breakfast we grabbed our nearly empty packs, pulled on our gore-tex shells and goggles, and headed back to our previous camp. As is typical near Kahiltna Pass, where the weather funnels through the low gap in the mountains, the conditions deteriorated with the wind whipping snow by us. But we pushed through it, reaching our old camp at 9200' before long.
We dug up our food bags and supplies we left cached there yesterday and loaded everything into our packs before setting off back uphill. The knowledge that our warm tents awaited us was good motivation for the team and we motored back to 11 Camp through the wind and blowing snow. When we got back to camp we found our tents starting to sink beneath the accumulating snow so we pulled out the shovels and cleared out camp from the drifted snow. Before long everything looked as it had when we left this morning. We've spent the rest of the afternoon hanging out in the tents. The skies have cleared a bit and the sun is managing to poke through every now and again.
We are hoping to carry a cache of supplies to 13,600' tomorrow but the conditions are looking questionable. There are a few teams here that have been waiting for a few days to do the same thing but haven't because of the weather. Unfortunately the forecast for tomorrow looks like more of the same, but we're keeping our fingers crossed anyways.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Wow! Talk about a bucket list item. Send some of that cold weather our way. I’ll say a prayer that the weather cooperates.
Posted by: Ric G on 6/28/2011 at 4:33 pm
Remember what Ed Viesturs says: Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory.
Posted by: g3niusgirl on 6/28/2011 at 4:32 pm
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
This is Adam checking in from Mt McKinley.
Yesterday our team made an exploratory reconnaissance up the NE Fork of the Kahiltna. This is the approach glacier that leads to the bottom of our climbing route, the West Rib.
It was an instructive day. Without going into detail, suffice it to say for reasons based on mountaineering experience we have decided to forego climbing the lower portion of the West Rib. Rather, our revised plan will be to follow the West Buttress route to 14,000’ and from there intersect the ridgeline and climb the upper West Rib to the summit.
We are aiming to make camp today at 9,500’. The weather is gorgeous, the team is strong, and everyone is excited about our new strategy.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Glad to hear that you guys are making smart, safe decisions. While I know you had hoped to complete the full West Rib, it’s always better to be safe and prudent, and I’m sure the Upper Rib line will still be amazing. Good luck to my Peter and the rest of the team, and stay safe!
Posted by: Esther Kim on 5/30/2011 at 10:22 am
Man that sounds great! Wish I was there! Have a great climb guys!
Posted by: Ben Fraley on 5/29/2011 at 6:51 pm
Hiiiii Ben!
Sounds like a lot of fun! We are glad the weather is on your side, we are sure it will stay that way. Be safe. God Bless. and take lots of photos!
Em and JB
Posted by: Emily and James on 6/8/2011 at 7:59 pm
Tyler, enjoyed climbing with you and Pete May 20-23. I am amazed by what you do every day! Thanks for the well-written updates. I’ll be back next year for Rainier again. Will follow you on Denali to see if I’m up to the challenge. Stay safe. —John
Posted by: John Corona on 6/8/2011 at 8:24 am
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