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Orizaba Express: Hailes and Team Enjoy Time at La Malinche

Good morning. We had a great day yesterday driving to La Malinche. We left Mexico City and grabbed some lunch and snacks food for our climb today. Once we arrive at the resort we settled into the cabana and Brett, Jeff and John went for a hike before dinner. Alden, Merrick and I spent time at the cabana prepping for our climb today. Dinner was delicious with queso and guacamole for all.

This morning we grabbed breakfast and hit the trail for our first acclimation hike. The forecast called for sunny and warm. We had a near perfect day today on our acclimation hike. Sunny skies, light breeze, and a great team. We moved well uphill even in the loose rock and scree of the mountain and got to relax on to for well over an hour, breathing the thin air as getting ready for the next challenge. We are all looking forward to another great dinner and a warm fire in our cabana tonight.

 

RMI Guide Walt Hailes

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Orizaba Express: Hailes & Team Turn Around at 17,000’ Due to Conditions

 We pushed as hard as we could today but the weather just didn't let us summit Orizaba. We all climbed strong up to about 17,000ft when the combination of strong winds, wind loaded slopes, and reduced visibility made the decision to turn around and head downhill quite clear. It is always disappointing to not make the summit, but the while team is in great spirits back at the Casa pierde hut. Now we load onto the 4x4 for our final push to Mexico City and a nice hot shower and dinner. See you all very soon.

RMI Guide Walter Hailes


RMI Guide Walter Hailes checks in from Orizaba Summit attempt.

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Damn those high winds and white out conditions!!  Obviously the right call to make!  Have fun in Mexico City.  Looking forward to seeing pics and hearing stories.  Safe travels!

Posted by: Chip on 2/1/2020 at 12:24 pm

You’re all unstoppable!!! Warm greetings from Florida and Boston!

Posted by: Team Alden on 1/31/2020 at 8:06 am


Aconcagua: Scott & Team Move Up to 18,000’

So far the weather has been very predictable. Sunny and clear in the mornings changing to cloudy with snow flurries by dinner time. This has been great for all of our planned movement up and down the mountain and today was no different as the sun was shining and the winds calm for our move up to Camp 2. Tonight will be our first night at 18,000 feet above sea level, a hard place to sleep for sure. Despite the lack of thick air, I don’t think any of us would trade the views just to be lower on the mountain. Camp 2 on Aconcagua stares straight out into the central Andes, a view you have to see for yourself to truly appreciate and it’s right off our front porch for the next few days. 

RMI Guide Nick Scott

On The Map

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Hey Daryl and team, pictures look amazing. Keep up the good work we are praying for strength, endurance and good health for you all.

Posted by: Ken Cwikula on 2/2/2020 at 12:20 am

Super Bowl Argentina!!  Got my popcorn popping and cheering all of you on ! Yay team

Posted by: Katie and Jeannette on 2/1/2020 at 10:20 am


Orizaba Express: Hailes & Team arrive at a Windy Piedra Grande

Our day started calm and orderly, but did not finish that way. We had another great meal at La Malinche before we started driving to Tlachachula. Then we loaded the van and hit the road. After sorting gear and eating lunch in town we loaded up the 4x4 and drove the bumpy road 2 hours to camp. Camp was a little windy when as we set up our tents. We choose to sleep in tents instead of the hut so that we could have a nice quiet night. However, just as we finished the last tent big wind gusts started hitting us. When we almost lost one tent 3 times we decided to change plans, drop the tents and retreat to the hut. The team made quick work of relocating and we settled into the hut nicely. We'll sleep sound tonight and see what the wind is like in the morning.

RMI Guide Walt Hailes & Team

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Mountaineering Training | Fit To Climb: Week 2

Congratulations on last week’s training, you are off to a great start! How does your body feel after seven practice sessions of the Daily Dozen? The purpose of this week’s training is to continue to practice the Daily Dozen and to add a weekend hike to round things out. Choose an easy or moderate goal for the first hike. This is the end of the adaptation phase. Next week is the beginning of the foundation phase. Fit to Climb: Week 2 Schedule
DAY WORKOUT TOTAL TIME DIFFICULTY
1 Daily Dozen 12 min. Recovery
2 Daily Dozen + 40 Minute Hike 52 min. Medium
3 Daily Dozen / Rest 12 min. Recovery
4 Daily Dozen + 40 Minute Hike 52 min. Medium
5 Daily Dozen / Rest 12 min. Recovery
6 Daily Dozen + 2 Hour Hike 132 min. Medium
7 Rest - Recovery
Total 4 hrs 44 mins
- John Colver Have a question? See the Fit To Climb FAQ for explanations of specific exercises and general pointers to help you through the Fit To Climb Program. John Colver is a longtime climber, former mountain guide, and certified personal trainer with the American Council of Exercise. Colver introduced outdoor fitness classes to athletic clubs throughout the greater Puget Sound region before creating his adventX brand. Currently, adventX leads training programs in Seattle and Colver presents clinics on outdoor fitness at companies such as Microsoft, Boeing, the American Lung Association, and REI. Colver lives in Seattle, and is working on his second book, Fit to Climb - a 16 week Mount Rainier Fitness Program.
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I’d like to see the next few weeks of the training program.  I realize that there are no shortcuts to the top, but I had been doing 30 to 60 minute hikes with a 45 lb pack for months before starting the Fit to Climb program, and need to speed up a few weeks to meet my climbing date.

Posted by: Mike Forsyth on 5/23/2017 at 1:00 pm

Ayman,

Great question. If you are limited by terrain, you can use a treadmill on an incline as a tool. I would suggest trying to find a variety of activities though to keep you motivated. Other options could include stadium stairs (lots of laps) or lots of laps of a small hill. We’ve heard of folks training with lots of laps of old garbage dumps, road embankments, etc. A treadmill on an incline will help build the muscles that you use to step uphill, but every step is nearly the same. By getting off of the treadmill and outside, grass or any off pavement terrain will make each step different, building your balance muscles as well. Also, it’s important not to forget about the downhill: half the climb will be downhill, which is a different set of muscles, and the treadmill doesn’t do a lot for those. Good luck!

Posted by: RMI Team on 11/3/2016 at 12:05 pm


Mexico’s Volcanoes: Wittmier & Team Summit Orizaba

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier and the Mexico Volcanoes team reached the summit of Pico de Orizaba, 18,491', early this morning.  The team will return to Tlachichuca to spend the night and celebrate their great week of climbing.

Congratulations to the team!

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Mountaineering Training | How I Train For The 8000m Arena

For the last 2 years, my focus in my personal climbing has been climbing 8000m Himalayan peaks solo, without the aid of supplemental oxygen.  My training program has to reflect the increased mental and physical strains that climbing in this style demands. My training must change significantly depending on the season of my next expedition - spring versus autumn. The difference lies in what I have been doing already leading up to a climb.  My summertime climbs working as a guide on Mt. Rainier are a fantastic aerobic base to train from since the terrain, techniques, and exertion mimic much of the climbing on 8000m peaks. Nothing beats the real thing for training.  Since I have not been climbing Mt. Rainier weekly leading up to a Spring climb, I have to dedicate more training time to endurance workouts around my winter-time home in the Sierras.  I find that my perceived fitness changes a lot between seasons; in the spring I am able to move faster but with less endurance, while in the autumn I feel a deep reservoir of endurance but a lack of speed. I break my training into blocks of 10 days, rather than weeks, with each 10 day block building on the last in terms of intensity, distance, and strength.  A sample 10 day block would look something like this (descriptions of each workout are below): Spring Training • 1 climb with a gain of 5,000’ or more (moving as fast as I can maintain for 2 hour stretches) • 3 trail runs with a gains of 2,500’ + • Multi-muscle lifting 2x • Enduro lifting 1x • Anaerobic Intervals: 8 intervals, 1x • Rest day 2x During the course of my total training program, I also include 2 single push 20+ hour ascents.   Autumn Training • 2x Mt. Rainier summit climbs (18,000 – 27,000ft vertical gain total) (4 days total) • Trail run 2x with 2500ft+ gain • Multi-muscle lifting 1x • Enduro lifting 1x • Anaerobic intervals: 8 intervals, 1x • Rest Day 1x Similar to my Spring training program, during the summer months leading up to an Autumn climb, I include 4-5 Muir Snowfield “sprints” (goal of sub 2hrs).  If I am not working on Mt. Rainier, I substitute another snow climb of a constant grade with gains of 4000 – 5000’.   Specific descriptions of each workout: Multi-muscle lifting: Clean and Jerk, Deadlifts, Power snatch (Olympic style lifting).  I frequently add a Bosu ball (a squishy rubber half circle) into some of my lifting exercises  for a balance component. Enduro lifting: I think of this as anything I can do 15 to 20 reps of, whether push-ups, sit ups, pull-ups, excercises on a weight machine, barbell lifting or Olympic style lifting, and core exercises. My goal for lifting is not to bulk up, but to ensure I have a solid strength base. Anaerobic Intervals: The goal is to get into my max heart rate zone for as long as I can handle (no more than 2 min, or the anaerobic component is lost). Techniques I “enjoy” are wind sprints, spinning machines, rowing machines or deadlifts. I find that I perform best coming off a solid 2 day rest. Single Push Ascents: Within my training window I’ll try for a few 20+ hour, single push ascents. These provide a great training benchmark for my physical fitness, and help me build the mental fortitude that long 8000m summit days require “Snowfield sprints”: I try to find easy to moderate snow climbs, so that the focus is on aerobic fitness and not technical proficiency. My goal is to either single push through the entire ascent or take quick 5 minute maintenance breaks every 2 hrs. I keep the stress high, near my aerobic threshold for the duration of the climb.  My go-to choices have been Mt. Baldy outside of Los Angeles and the Muir Snowfield.   Maximizing my training gains: First off, I have days that I don’t stick to the plan. It’s totally ok! There are days that I just curl up with a box of Cheez-its and watch Netflix. My mind and body need time to recover and its important that I listen to those signals. With a good day of rest, I head into my next workout ready to push until exhaustion! My plan also has to incorporate the terrain that I have at my disposal. This requires shifting my exercises from the plan somewhat, still with the intention to accomplish the given task: trail runs and body weight exercises to replace lifting can still accomplish my goals of strength and balance training, and give my body new stresses. I try not to sweat missing a particular workout if the terrain simply is not conducive, and focus instead on what I can accomplish. I change things up, and try to avoid too much of a routine. I know the ways I want to stress my body within this 10 day block but how I go about it changes regularly. For example, I keep a list of strength exercises I use on the wall as an easy way to - at a glance - select a new routine for the day. Good training partners are essential: their routine will likely take my body out of any established routine I have created, and the extra motivation is invaluable. I add exercises I find fun and effective so that I have a broader program to pull from. I pay special attention to my diet and nutrition during these intense training periods as well: what I eat can have a huge effect on my recovery and the gains I take away from training. My plan is a constant work in progress, and is always shifting with the new demands that each new climb might bring.  I try to take time after each climb to assess what worked and what didn’t so that my training is even more effective the next time around. _____ Alex Barber is an associate guide at RMI Expeditions and splits his time between the beaches of Southern California and mountains around the world. Last Autumn, Alex made the summit of Cho Oyu, solo and without bottled oxygen. This past Spring, he made it to 7600m on Shishpangma's Inaki Route. He summited 8156m Manaslu on October 1st, for his third Himalayan climb. Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!
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Thank you Alex for sharing insight on your training plan. This is a Top-5 training advice article for mountaineering. I have received the RMI training blog in the three years and in many regards this was the most helpful. I have saved this one to refer to often. Thanks again.

Posted by: TimR on 1/5/2015 at 4:29 am


Mexico Volcanoes: Wittmier & Team Summit Ixta!

Just before 6am today the Mexico Volcanoes expedition stood on top of Ixtaccihuatl.  Yes, that is an hour before sunrise.  You could say we left an hour too early or you can recognize that this group of climbers is strong and motivated.  We battled a cold breeze all morning, but people put their heads down and persevered.

This time of year Ixta is dry, which makes climbing more difficult.  The footing can be loose and we have all been thoroughly sandblasted.  Needless to say it was an exhausting day.  Within minutes of boarding the bus, more than half of the crew was asleep... a nap fueled by sandwiches y cervezas.

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

On The Map

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Congratulations on a successful summit! Some challenging looking terrain the team had to pass through but looks like it was well worth it.

Posted by: Dan on 3/5/2020 at 9:18 pm


Mexico Volcanoes: Wittmier & Team Move Up to Ixta’s High Camp

Following another fantastic Mexican culinary experience (breakfast tacos) we hit the trail from Altzomoni towards high camp on Ixta.  Everyone arrived in good spirits and are settled in at camp.  An early dinner tonight will set us up nicely to get some rest and have an alpine start tonight.

Conditions on the mountain are dry and the weather is breezy.  We are all feeling optimistic about tonight's climb.  Hopefully we will be calling from the summit early tomorrow morning!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

On The Map

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Mexico Volcanoes: Wittmier & Team Head to Altzomoni Hut

Our attempt on La Malinche yesterday was turned just above treeline, but we still attained our goal of getting some mileage and elevation in.  The National Park Police were stopping all groups from continuing, citing recent weather trends (afternoon thundershowers).  My assessment of the weather differed from theirs, but their stern faces projected a certain air of authority.

The team is on the road again this morning, this time from the La Malinche resort to Altzomoni.  On previous trips with the same bus driver, Augustín, there was a Shania Twain album stuck in the CD player.  However, that problem has been rectified and this morning we are getting re-acquainted with 90's and early 2000's hip hop and R&B. 

We will make a quick pit stop in Amecameca for snacks and water before heading to the Paso de Cortes.  The anticipation is growing for our first big objective, Iztaccíhuatl (Ixta).  Given the weather we have observed for the past couple of days, it appears to be shaping up for a great climb!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

On The Map

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