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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Okita and Team Down But Not Out

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,000'

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It's been a long day that started in the wee hours of the morning. The alarm sounded about 2 hours after I sent our last dispatch. 2:00 am was a harsh hour of the day to begin our final walk out the Kahiltna Glacier, but essential to safely navigate and cross the crevasses on our way to the airstrip. At that time the day is about as dark as it gets, which is to say it's about as dark as 1/2 hour after dusk, perhaps. Combined with cloudy, overcast weather, I wasn't entirely psyched for the walk out. But, as the morning developed things began looking brighter. We finally started off at 4:20 am and initially encountered great walking conditions. Unfortunately, as we lost elevation the snow became softer and softer, having not frozen hard overnight because of the cloud cover holding the earth's heat in. This resulted in a few minor crevasse 'falls' where some individuals broke through crevasse bridges up to their waste at most. Of course, by the time you hear their stories, these crevasse falls will have taken on epic proportions. (A night at the bar can have the same effect) Well, we finally arrived at Base Camp with our weather outlook improving and hopes to be flown off in short order high in everyone's mind. Unfortunately, Mother Nature had something else in store for us, as it's now evening and raining out. Although comfy and snug in our tents, and happy we're not enduring a big storm up high, we of course would rather be back in Talkeetna, and a little closer to you. Hope to see you soon! RMI Guides Brent, Leon and Maile
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Mt. McKinley: Adam Knoff & West Rib Team Check in

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

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This is Adam checking in from Mt McKinley. Yesterday our team made an exploratory reconnaissance up the NE Fork of the Kahiltna. This is the approach glacier that leads to the bottom of our climbing route, the West Rib. It was an instructive day. Without going into detail, suffice it to say for reasons based on mountaineering experience we have decided to forego climbing the lower portion of the West Rib. Rather, our revised plan will be to follow the West Buttress route to 14,000’ and from there intersect the ridgeline and climb the upper West Rib to the summit. We are aiming to make camp today at 9,500’. The weather is gorgeous, the team is strong, and everyone is excited about our new strategy. RMI Guide Adam Knoff
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Glad to hear that you guys are making smart, safe decisions. While I know you had hoped to complete the full West Rib, it’s always better to be safe and prudent, and I’m sure the Upper Rib line will still be amazing. Good luck to my Peter and the rest of the team, and stay safe!

Posted by: Esther Kim on 5/30/2011 at 10:22 am

Man that sounds great! Wish I was there! Have a great climb guys!

Posted by: Ben Fraley on 5/29/2011 at 6:51 pm

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Aconcagua:  Resting at Camp 1

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 16,200'

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Buen día to all you following along back home! This fearless (not really) group are chilling at Camp 1 after yesterday's carry up to the CHOPPER CAMP (pronounced with an ex-governator accent). The weather is gorgeous this morning; blue skies with all of the surrounding mountains dusted white with yesterday's snowfall. The group is acclimatizing very well and is chomping at the bit to move higher. Stokemeter Patience is the name of the game now. The rest and acclimation we get here will make us strong up high! Ants-in-our-pants-o-meter: 7.8. RMI Guide Billy Nugent
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Ruth Glacier Seminar: Team Arrives in Talkeetna, Ready to Fly

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

Elevation: May 2, 2025

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Saturday, May 3, 2025 - 10:33 pm PT

First couple days were spent meeting up in Anchorage and shuttling our way to Talkeetna via the scenic drive toward the Alaska range. After arriving we quickly got to packing, sorting gear and setting ourselves up for when the weather would allow us to get into the range. Sadly today wasn't our day in that regard but time was still well spent. Rest, rope and camp skills were the name of the game to further put as at advantage once on the great Ruth Glacier. 

We are hopeful that tomorrow's weather will grant us passage into the amphitheater to begin our days amongst the peaks.

The RMI Guides Dan May & Joey Manship and the Ruth Gorge Team 

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Good luck team! Have a great flight to the glacier today and enjoy setting up your first camp amongst the peaks!

Posted by: Jeremy Rutter on 5/4/2025 at 10:04 am

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Kilimanjaro: Grom and Crew Start their Trek

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro

Elevation: 9,890'

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Jambo Everyone 

Today the team left behind our beautiful and comfortable river lodge and have headed to the mountain towards the start of the climb. We left around 8am and drove along the rural countryside and small villages for 2 hours before reaching the park entrance. 

Most of the area surrounding Kilimanjaro has been cultivated and primarily used for coffee production and for a variety of other agriculture needs, but there are still some areas that have been untouched and resemble more of a savannah that Tanzania is known for. The base of Kilimanjaro is more forested and looks more jungle like and is called a cloud forest. 

Once we arrived at the park gate, we had all of our gear weighed and divided into loads for our porters and other staff to carry before hitting the trail. Once everything was in order, we started our climb slowly making our way up the winding trail that ascends continuously through the thick forest. Thankfully the overhead canopy provided a little cover from the intense sun, and we were happy it didn’t rain either. It took our team around 5hr to reach our camp for the night that sits around 10’000ft. 

Once we were settled into camp and got everybody situated the team was served a nice warm meal for dinner before retiring for the night. Everyone is still feeling the jet lag, and I’m sure the team will sleep well tonight. 


Casey and Kili crew

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Hey Lacey,
This is the time of your life, enjoy!!

Posted by: Robert Pamela Holt on 9/20/2023 at 7:45 am

Hey Lacey! Have an Awesome Climb!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 9/19/2023 at 1:46 pm

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Fisher Chimneys: Beren and Team Summit

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

Elevation: 9,127'

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In the North Cascades of Washington, RMI Guide Jake Beren and team reached the summit of Mt. Shuksan via the Fisher Chimneys this morning. The team is back at high camp for the night and has been enjoying sunny, warm, and perfect weather. Congratulations Climbers!
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Excellent!  Stunning view - thanks for the update!

Posted by: Sindi on 8/10/2014 at 3:55 am

Congratulations!!!  Very eager to hear from you , Sid !

Posted by: Nirmala Sharma on 8/9/2014 at 3:51 pm

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Mt. Kilimanjaro: Hahn & Team Ascend Barranco Wall

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro

Elevation: 13,160'

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It was cold in Mt. Kilimanjaro's Barranco Camp this morning, but very beautiful. We still couldn't see the world below, due to clouds, but we could sure see the steep Southern walls of Kibo Peak above. Giant icicles hung down from the glaciers and snowfields in the early morning shadows. Just as the sun hit our camp at about 8:15 AM, we set off into the cool shadows again. We didn't stay cold though, since our first task was to climb the steep lava ledges of the Barranco Wall. Our local guides, Eric and Charles, along with Eliapende and Vendelin, made sure that all felt confident in reaching up for the rough handholds and stepping from block to block to pass this imposing barrier. It took over an hour, as expected, to get up 800 vertical feet of relief, but we did it, earning even better views of Kilimanjaro's central peak and glaciers hanging thousands of feet above. Then it was relatively easy walking to reach the Karanga Valley, but by the time we made that combination steep descent and ascent -in and out of the narrow valley, we were in cloud. We made it to Karanga Camp at 13,160 ft by 1:15 PM and began our now familiar and welcome pattern of resting, recuperating, eating and drinking through the afternoon. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Brother Brad & Brother Brian,
I know you guys are wearin’ out the mountain! Looks like a great trek. Enjoy the journey and take lots of pics. Can’t wait to hear about the climb.

Posted by: Steve on 8/1/2014 at 7:47 pm

Kevin!  Hey babe! Got your vm today!  Missed your call by 5 minutes as I was loading the car.  :( you’re hiking a mountain and b is busy chasing h around the house and learning to walk better.  That’s his mountain for now!  :) h can’t even eat without b right there running him over!  We love you and miss you!  Keep going….. yall are getting close!

Posted by: Heather Davis on 8/1/2014 at 6:18 pm

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Ecuador: Team at Cayambe Hut - Ready for Summit Attempt

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 15,300'

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Hey it’s Mike Walter checking in on Sunday night from the RMI Ecuador's Volcanoes Climb. We are here at the Cayambe climbers hut. We arrived here last night. Today we did some training and review of climbing techniques: cramponing, ice axe arrest and roped travel. It's been pretty windy and off and on snow and rain. We're hoping for better weather and good climbing conditions tomorrow. There's a lot of snow on the route so we will hopefully be able to climb tomorrow. Maybe some deep trail breaking but we'll give you a shout tomorrow hopefully from the summit and if not, then we’ll check in once we get back down.


RMI Guide Mike Walter checks in from the climbers hut on Cayambe.

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Good luck, guys! We’re proud of you and look forward to the pictures. Have a safe climb!

Posted by: Susan Felke on 6/27/2011 at 2:58 pm

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Acclimatizing at Camp Two

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 21,300 ft

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Chad Peele reporting from 21,000 ft Casey, Scott, Rob and I moved up from Basecamp yesterday. We woke to clear skies here at Camp Two. After a nice breakfast we walked up to the base of the Lhotse face for exercise. We are preparing to climb up to Camp Three on the face tomorrow and spend the night, weather permitting. At Basecamp today, Tuck and some of the RMI Basecamp cook staff, along with a group from the HimEx team, helped build a second heli pad. Word on the street is that four more people stood on top of the world at 6:00 am today.
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Back in Quito, No Cayambe Ascent

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

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Hola from Ecuador. We're all safely back in Quito, on the last day of our climbing trip. We hoped to climb Cayambe this morning, but the weather took a turn for the worse. All night the wind howled; by the time I woke at 11:00 pm, a cloud had descended upon the climbers' hut, and everything was covered in ice. I monitored the weather all night and early morning, but it wasn't improving at all. It was so icy outside that we struggled to stay upright just walking outside to get into our jeeps for the drive back to Quito. We were all excited for the ascent of Cayambe, but such is life in the mountains. We had great weather for Cotopaxi, and we wouldn't have traded that for anything. So now we're all resting and packing, enjoying Quito this afternoon. We'll be on our way back north to the states shortly. Tonight we'll have our final dinner together as a team, and celebrate our experiences on the trip. Thanks for keeping track of our journey!
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