Another beautiful day at Everest Basecamp. The weather so far this season has been really great. We've had traces of snow some nights but most days have been warm, sunny and the climbing conditions have been, as my friends say, 'splitter'.
Dave, Erica and I took advantage of the conditions today and went for an acclimatization hike. We went down the Khumbu, out of Basecamp and towards Pumori a ca. 23,000 foot peak located across the glacier from Nuptse. The trail below Basecamp was moderately busy with climbers, trekkers, porters and yak trains. Hiking the trails around here with Dave is always fun because he invariably runs into someone he knows, usually several people. Today we ran into a British gent who had done some scientific work on several of the artifacts that Dave and team had recovered when they found Mallory's body on the North Ridge of Everest in '99. They had never met face-to-face but had known of each other for a few years. I couldn't think of a more appropriate place for the two to meet.
On our hike we passed through Pumori Basecamp and then walked out across a rocky ridgeline. At a high point on the ridge we were rewarded with spectacular views of Nuptse, Lhotse and Everest. After getting the requisite photos Dave and Erica headed back to camp for lunch while I continued on to Camp 1 on Pumori. From there the views were even more spectacular. I could see all the way from Basecamp, up the icefall, through part of the Western Cwm (although Nuptse blocks most of this), up the Lhotse Face to the South Col and then I could follow parts of the South East Ridge of Everest to the Summit. It was very cool to be able to see almost the entire climbing route. It also gave me a great visual representation of why it takes about two months to climb this mountain. It's a long way from basecamp to the summit!!!
The rest of the team is doing great as well. Ed and Peter had spent last night at Camp 1 and today they moved up to Camp 2 (Advanced Basecamp). They called on the radio in the morning and reported that all was well and they called again when they had reached ABC. Melissa made her way through the icefall in the early morning hours, climbing her way from Basecamp to Camp 1. Everyone took advantage of the great weather today.
The team is spread out on the mountain for the next few days but that's neither unexpected nor a bad thing on a long expedition. Our schedules will overlap again soon and we'll all be together and that will be great. But for now it's nice to have a little extra room in the dining tent.
Yesterday morning the wind began blowing from the east around 2am, accompanied by moisture in the form of a light rain at basecamp. It continued in this manner until, well... it's still raining at basecamp. The rain was never too horrible at camp and was often accompanied by sun to the west. We had a really successful time practicing some skills and just enjoying a nice couple of nights up high (14700').
However, today we attempted to climb Antisana and ultimately were turned around at about 17500'. The team climbed strong, but the further we pushed towards the summit and therefore towards the cloud, the wetter and windier it got. It was great experience for the team and we came away from it without too epic of a tale to tell. We now set our sights on Chimborazo, the final climb of the trip. The remainder of today is for resting and tomorrow we continue the drive south to Riobamba and ultimately to the Chimborazo Lodge for one more relaxing night prior to our climb.
May 29, 2014 - 11:07 pm
The team got through their first night here at 14,200' in splendid shape. Most actually got their best nights sleep of the trip.
Although we got a few extra winks of sleep this morning, we got up early enough to pick up our cache at 13,500' and were back before noon. This allowed us plenty of time to get in some training before we hopefully make a carry up the fixed ropes and finally on to the West Buttress, the namesake of our route up Denali.
But before we could call it a day and enjoy some quality time relaxing in the tents, we built a 'proper' latrine complete with high walls to protect us from the wind and blowing snow. These walls do double duty to afford us some much appreciated privacy as well.
Walls were also built up around our tents, which will be of huge benefit if the forecasted winds appear tonight.
We'd like to end with a parting shout out to three generations of Greg's family celebrating their birthday today. Happy Birthday Sarah, Robin and Ken!
Good night everyone.
RMI Guides Brent, Leah and Nick
Sounds like you’re making good progress, staying rested, full, warm and safe. Well done team. My compliments to all. We love you and we’re all cheering you on. Dad, Nicole, Frank, Emma and Baby Jake.
Posted by: Nick Boekenoogen on 6/16/2014 at 5:32 am
Hey,
Tell Rick Popp that we have been keeping track of the blog from time to time and that all the HTK killers are rooting him on. Things are good at home and we are all looking forward to his return.
The team is bivvied out under the stars and a clear sky at Las Lenas tonight. After packing the last of our gear for the mules to carry in, we headed to the dusty Vacas Valley. We had a breezy and sunny walk in, taking time to eat fresh melon and jamon y queso sandwiches at a leisurely lunch break along the river. At camp, the local cowboys made us a steak Asado over the open fire for dinner. Tomorrow, we continue up the valley to Casa de Piedra where another Asado dinner (and hopefully starry skies) await us!
RMI Guide Katrina Bloemsma
After leaving Base Camp yesterday we made the long trek back to Pampa de Llenas where the length of this journey began to sink in. Many miles of beautiful walking brought us back to our first camp where we were treated to an asado courtesy of our herreros. Grilling over an open fire under the Andean sky we really put the trip to bed in style. Getting to visit with the incoming RMI crew was fun, seeing all those clean faces and knowing that we were just a few hours from a shower ourselves.
Thanks to a wonderful crew for a great trip and can't wait to see everyone in the mountains soon!
Jake Beren & Team
The Four Day Summit Climb June 17 - 20 led by Mark Falendar and J.J. Justman reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 7:00 a.m. PT. They reported gusty winds and cold temperatures but blue skies above them and great views all around.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb Teams!
We've now recovered from the last round up high. Most coughs are gone and the sunburns have faded. We are each getting stronger now and ready to get on with the climb to the summit. But of course, the weather isn't quite stable enough yet for that last climb. Jet stream winds continue to scour the upper mountain. Basecamp has been uncharacteristically breezy and cool for the past few days, although not unpleasant. There is hope for a break in the winds in a week or so, which... as it turns out... coincides with the dates we've always assumed would work best for our team anyway. A few teams are reportedly up at Camp III now and set on finding a lull in these next few days. We wish them luck and salute their boldness... but we don't envy them. The mountain is tougher in tough conditions. Our team is passing the time with hikes, card games, chess, horseshoes and fine dining.
Last night we were honored to have Apa Sherpa join us for dinner. Apa will be trying for his record 20th summit of Mount Everest as we go for ours and is a great hero and friend.
Late yesterday evening we were treated to a spectacular moonrise over the Ama Dablam massif here in Pheriche. The very full moon bathed the surrounding peaks in a brilliant light, the glaciers glowing so strongly that after retreating inside I was obliged to pull my curtains closed to cast extra darkness into my little room. Luckily, the clear skies persisted through the night and we awoke to another crystal clear morning, with only the highest peaks sporting their jet stream plume of clouds far above us.
Leaving our bags in the teahouse, we set off up a small trail above Pheriche, climbing quickly we passed several stray yaks and decaying chortens as we climbed higher. With the weather staying clear and the team climbing strongly, we made good time up the ridgeline, soon gaining the summit of Nangkar Tshang, a rocky outcropping around 16,500' standing proudly above the confluence of the Imja Khola Valley - coming from Island Peak - and the Dudh Kosi Valley - coming from Everest. Along the way we had excellent views of our climbing destination, Island Peak, which we will return to in a few days after visiting Everest Base Camp. Standing by itself at the head of the valley at well over 20,000', the peak does indeed resemble an island, surrounded with a backdrop of some of the world's highest peaks including Nuptse, Lhotse, and Makalu.
After enjoying the views from the summit of Nangkar Tshang, we headed back down the trail, quickly losing the elevation that we worked so hard to gain. Before returning to Pheriche, we walked down to the the sister village of Dingboche, visiting a small building built high into the cliff face above the valley on our way. Returning to Pheriche, we returned in time to sit in on the HRA Clinic daily Altitude Talk, listening to Dr. Barb Jones from the US give us the latest briefings on altitude science and demonstrating the use of a Gamow Bag, or portable hyperbaric chamber, for us.
Tomorrow we climb higher towards Everest, bound for the small herding village of Lobuche, situated just past the terminus of the Khumbu Glacier. Communication from Lobuche is difficult but we will do our best to keep everyone up to date with our progress.
Early this morning, under the guidance of RMI Expeditions’ guides Brent Okita and Bailey Servais, a determined team of climbers reached the summit of Mt. Rainier. Their journey began in the dark hours of the morning, ascending through a dense marine layer that blanketed the lower elevations. As they climbed higher, the clouds gave way to clear skies and sweeping views.
Despite some wind at the summit, the team enjoyed, taking in the panoramic vistas from Washington’s highest peak.
The climbers are now making their descent back to Camp Muir, where they’ll regroup and rest before continuing down to Paradise. From there, they’ll return to Ashford, WA, where celebrations await.
Congratulations to all the climbers and guides on this unforgettable achievement!
Greetings friends, I know you have all been anxiously awaiting this update and I am proud to announce that we have in fact found Flaming Hot Cheetos and are currently in possession of enough to power a small factory. Mission accomplished. As for updates on our whereabouts, we had a great breakfast at the hacienda and made our way to the Otavalo Market where we did some shopping and exploring before heading for the hills. We arrived at the lower hut on Cayambe late afternoon and had some time to relax before a three course dinner. Afterwards talked some logistics about the days to come and shared some good laughs. Tomorrow we will rise early and make our way to the high hut before heading up to the glacier for a quick snow school in preparation for our Cayambe summit attempt. Morale continues to soar and we are all excited for what is to come. Hope all is well back at home, we can feel you all cheering us on and we greatly appreciate it! Even Jeff Daniels
Hey Dustin! You guys gave it your best! Best wishes for perfect weather ahead for you!
Farmer Dave
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 2/16/2024 at 3:09 am
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