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Sunday, June 1, 2014 10:42 pm PT
We went to bed last night with clear blue skies fueling hopes for a good chance of flying onto the Kahiltna glacier today. When we woke this morning, the clouds dampened our hopes, and we slowly made our way to breakfast. After another hearty round of Roadhouse delights, we made our way to the hangar and settled in for a morning of discussion.
Within 2 hours, we had finished chatting and were dispersing around Talkeetna for rest and lunch. Some of us were still at the hangar when the
K2 Aviation staff came out and started packing up our kit - it was on! We called the team in and got our clothes changed, boots on, and stood anxiously waiting for the green light to load and go.
Soon, we were in the Otter plane and flying towards the heart of the Alaska range. We landed amid the giants of snow and rock that characterize this special range, high-fived with RMI Guide
Mike Walter and his crew and waved them goodbye as they headed back to the luxuries we've left behind. The team had a good early dinner and are now in bed, resting for the work to come. Stay with us as we climb towards our goal!
RMI Guides
Tyler Jones,
Garrett Stevens, and
Bryan Hendrick
Greetings from Namche once again.
Today we were greeted with a fresh blanket of snow in town, but only a few inches. We had planned on doing a little hiking to try and catch a glimpse of
Everest, but the new snow and cloud cover kept us close to home. So we spent the day drinking coffee, telling stories and doing a little shopping in town. It almost felt like Christmas to be honest!
Everyone is doing great and happily enjoyed the relaxing day here.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
P.S.
I'd like to wish my dad a special Happy Birthday! Wish I could throw a snowball at you pops! I love you.
Jake Beren, Gabriel Barral, and our Four Day Summit Climb Teams reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. They reported a beautiful day with great views and not a breath of wind.
Congratulations to today's Teams.
Another successful push up the hill brought us to our 14,000' Camp. The team performed wonderfully even with the big loads we were carrying. 14,000' Camp is a huge flat area that has a view up towards the summit looking one way and a view out towards Mt. Foraker and Mt. Hunter the other way. What an incredible place! The sun reflecting off of the snow that surrounds us causes it to be quite hot during the day. When the sun tucks behind the mountain around 9:00 PM, it gets COLD. Like Alaska cold! Go figure. Although our team is a bunch of animals, we are taking a rest day tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
After a delicious breakfast at Dr Reye's historic soap factory bed and breakfast, our team is on our way home.
A little more on the
Orizaba climb:
We arrived at the Piedra Grande Hut on Friday afternoon. After a brief walk to help our bodies get used to the thin air, we settled into camp. Robby and I cooked the best chicken tacos Orizaba has ever seen. Fresh tortillas, guacamole, sautéed onions and peppers, rotisserie chicken and limes made for a great pre-climb feast. After the taco feed, we tucked into our tents for a few hours of sleep.
When we woke, the thick cloud that had engulfed camp before bed had cleared. It was a beautiful night without even a breath of wind.
We climbed through a maze of rock known as the Labrynth to the Jamapa Glacier. At over 16,000' we donned crampons and ice axes and roped together to work towards
Orizaba's stunning summit crater.
Rest stepping, crampon technique and pressure breathing were the cornerstones of success as our team made switchbacks across the peaks northeast face. Our entire team climbed well until we were on the summit celebrating a hard fought ascent.
We enjoyed perfect, warm weather on top. After we had captured some photos and soaked in the amazing view, it was time to tackle the other half of the climb : the descent.
In keeping with the style they showed on the ascent, the team descended with great form and attention to footwork. Without a hitch, our team made it back to Piedra Grande.
A few hours of packing and 4x4 riding led us to a tasty meal and celebration at the Reyes soap factory. Sharing stories and jokes with the team was a terrific way to end a great climb and a rewarding trip.
Thanks to everyone on the team for their huge efforts and great attitudes!
Until the next climb ~
RMI Guides
Zeb Blais &
Robby Young
RMI Guide
Zeb Blais and the
Four Day Summit Climb reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Zeb reported light winds while on the summit. The team departed the crater rim around 7:30 am and is making their descent to Camp Muir where they will pack up before continuing their descent. We look forward to seeing the team in Ashford this afternoon.
Congratulations Climbers!
Hey RMI this is Linden Mallory calling from the Kahiltna Glacier. It’s about 3pm on the 10th of July. Those clouds that were building last night covered the Glacier and it never quite got cold enough last night for us to travel. So we are holed up here at 8,700’.
We had a pretty relaxed little day, hanging out, chatting and eating as much food as we can. Right now we are in a cloud bank, no snow at the moment but obscured skies. Things are definitely warm. We are keeping our fingers crossed that the clouds burn off by the end of the day and we are able to get a good freeze tonight and make it to Basecamp tomorrow.
We will check in and let you know how it goes. Take Care.
RMI Guide LInden Mallory
What goes up, must go down! Our uphill travel is over and it is now time for us to make our way downhill. What took us 12 days to get up to, would only take us a handful of hours to get back down. We broke down our camp at 19,600' and began our walk down to the much thicker air at 13,800'. It was a fantastic sight to see the Grajales staff welcome us back to basecamp. They greeted us with yummy snacks and a bottle of sparkling wine to celebrate our achievement. We could not ask for a more friendly group of people. After enjoying sitting in chairs and filling our bellies with fruit and various snacks, we had some chores to do. We sorted our gear and packed our duffles for the mules tomorrow. Our journey and long days are not over yet. Tomorrow we have a long hike to Pampa de Lenas. The promise of a carne asada BBQ will keep the team going and a promise of showers will keep us going the following day. The end is near where we can wash off all the dirt.
Just two more nights in sleeping bags,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
June 22, 2014 - 12:49 am PT
Today we woke to a cold, windy morning at high camp after yesterday's amazing summit. The blowing snow and frigid temperatures kept us tent-bound until mid-day, when the allure of thicker air and warmer temperatures finally got us motivated to pack up and get moving.
The first stretch down the
buttress was windy and cold, but by the time we reached Washburn's Thumb it was much warmer and calmer. We made quick work of the last stretch to the lines, and then shot down the fixed ropes like it was our job. Soon we were dropping packs back in 14k camp, saying hey to
Billy Nugent and
Mike Haugen and their respective teams, picking up our cache and getting ready to move further down.
Soon enough, we got past Squirrel and Motorcycle Hills, revisiting our old stomping grounds at 11k. We pulled out all the cheese, meat, tortillas, and bagels we had, and commenced to put them all onto the griddle for the annual tradition of the "11,000' Cheese Fry". Basically we just cook all the goodness until folks are full, and then it's off to bed for the early am launch.
We're definitely missing the team members who had to head home early, and hope that everyone is warm and dry. Lots of walking left, but we should be at the airstrip tomorrow if all goes according to plan. We'll check back then!
Cheers,
RMI Guides
Garrett Stevens,
Tyler Jones,
Geoff Schellens and the No Troubles team
On The Map
May 26, 2014 - 5:18 pm PT
Hello everyone!
Saying hello from Talkeetna, Alaska! We made it off this afternoon despite the evil forecast. This morning we left 9,700' and walked down glacier into deep clouds that retreated as we made our way to
Kahiltna Base Camp. All day we heard and saw fleets of airplanes coming in and by mid afternoon we were on one of them. So the team is safe and sound taking showers and indulging in vices.
It's been a fantastic trip with a great group. Thanks for tuning in!
RMI Guide Leon Davis
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Hi Dave!! I am following you all the way up!!! God Speed!
Posted by: Sandi on 6/5/2014 at 2:07 pm
Well it’s only been one day and I have already gone to text you three times before realizing I can’t! Be safe and have fun!
Love you Dad.
-PCK
Posted by: Paige on 6/3/2014 at 7:42 pm
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