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Arrival in Quito for Cotopaxi Expedition

Everyone's planes have arrived, and we had our first official team meeting at breakfast this morning. We discussed logistics for the trip and got to meet everyone, as well as enjoyed our breakfast buffet spread of fresh, local fruits, juices, and pastries. We spent the rest of the day touring the capital city of Quito with our very knowledgeable local guide, Jorge. We visited the colonial parts of Quito, and learned the city's cultural and political history, and then traveled to the "Mitad del Mundo", or the middle of the world. Here we got to stand on the equator and see examples of Ecuador's different cultural groups in the interpretative museum. Right now we're relaxing for a couple of hours before meeting for dinner. I'll be in touch tomorrow after we return from our first acclimatization hike to the Biological Reserve, Pasachoa.
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Viesturs and Whittaker Establish Camp 3 at 23,400 ft.

That little puff of cloud on top of Lhotse yesterday was a gathering storm. Not a bad storm we are told - no cyclone out of the bay of Bengal, no jetstreams trying to push over mountains, tents and people. But any fool can see that the skies are now full of moisture. There are clouds at all levels, and every 30 minutes or so, there is a snow shower. This isn't all bad in my book - as I've said, a carpet of snow on the Lhotse Face will just make it safer (now a meter of snow is a different animal entirely - lets not go there). Pre-storm, if anyone had been careless enough to drop a carabiner or water bottle from Camp III, it would have rocketed down the ice at terminal velocity, seeking grey matter (helmeted or otherwise) on the ropes below. My hope is that a little texture over the blue ice will make the Face safer and footing easier. I'm all about easy. Just this morning, when it was cold and snowy outside after breakfast, I invited birthday boy Kent Harvey and his camera into my and Erica's tent, to show him how we pass time in a storm. It was our rest day anyway - so being forced by the weather to focus on puzzles, books and I-pods didn't seem odd to me. I've long considered such skills to be the mark of a good expedition climber - the ability to do nothing, when nothing is what should be done. For active (or hyperactive) Type A climbers this requires an acceptance and a faith that there will be an abundance of physical abuse and over stimulated synapses, all-in-good-time... like, say, tomorrow. I've made a career out of interspersing corpse-like downtime with long, brutal, unfair, unrelenting sessions on my feet/crampons/skis/snowshoes/etc. It works. It is sustainable. I'm satisfied after 18 years at 8,000-meter peaks, that my job here is not to compete with the Sherpas at load carrying or route fixing. I've decided that I can do a better job of concentrating at guiding. Within reason. Today, just when it got ugly, mean and nasty out, with the tent walls shaking and rough snow pellets, peppering everything - just when it seemed proper to turn up the head tunes and guide by hiding from reality - I became aware that all was not right. Ang Kaji and Tendi were concerned about several dozen Sherpas trying to get heavy packs to 26,000 feet in this intensifying storm. Specifically - they were worried for four of our own team - the guys who were buying me the ability to sit on my butt, a mile below the battle-zone. It was obvious that Ang Kaji and Tendi were gearing up to walk in the storm. They meant to get to the base of the Face - to help out with thermoses of tea and water for Sherpas who battled their way back down in wind and blowing snow. I thought about things for 12 seconds, before declaring that I'd join them and Damian Benegas on the mercy mission. I thought of how little emergency gear sherpas bring on a carry - I thought of how much emergency gear I have surrounding me in a tent. I thought of how very few storms could keep me from reaching the Face if I threw on a First Ascent down suit, and if I pulled on some goggles, and pressed the right buttons on my GPS. Word came up quickly via radio from Lambabu that my services weren't really needed. And I knew that. I also know that the best climbing Sherpas have an admirable pride that this is their mountain, on which they solve their problems. But my client was safe at ABC and I happened to have time and energy and a New Mexico EMT license. And I admire guys like Tendi, Ang Kaji, and Damian who are hardwired to look after others and to make things come out right in the mountains. We went. And it was no big deal. Our climbers and everyone else's had wisely turned in the storm. We ended up sitting in the sun at the base of the Face as the guys came staggering off the rappel ropes. I didn't do anything - except watch tired men smile when Tendi handed them tea. I'm calling it a good day.
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Kilimanjaro: Hahn & Team Scale the Barranco Wall to Reach Karanga Camp

It was a day without sun.  Mostly.  We had it for a few minutes this morning as we walked to the base of the Great Barranco Wall. But then we were swallowed in cloud and mist just as we started to get serious on the wall.  Perhaps that helped those of us with a fear of heights to concentrate solely on the rock and the path ahead.  Our guides, Freddy, Naiman, and Thomas kept us moving well and guarded us on the tricky steps.  We’d prepared for traffic jams on this normally busy section of the route, but there were none.  We cruised the wall in just over an hour’s time -about half of what it might have taken with normal traffic.  Our amazing dining tent “waiters”, Hamedi and Shwahibu, had scaled the wall even faster and had tea and snacks out within moments of our arrival at the 14,000 ft “summit”. Although we had no view whatsoever from this normally stunning viewpoint, we lingered for forty five minutes anyway, enjoying the snacks and the swirling mists. The remaining hours to camp were easy by comparison. We took the time to review efficient hill-climbing techniques on our way up the final steep path into Karanga Camp at 13,200 ft. Now, in early evening, we’ve yet to see the place. The visibility is perhaps 100 ft although the weather is not unpleasant. Just a little static. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

PC: Dave Hahn

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Mexicos Volcanoes: Hoch & Team Turned Back on Orizaba, Conclude Trip

After two successful summits of La Malinche and Ixta, team Mexico Volcanoes took our show back on the road to the small town of Tlachachuca to prepare for our climb of 18,500' Pico de Orizaba. 

Our perfect sunny weather continued as we gear exploded and sorted on the lawn of our Mexican outfitter Servimont. After a quick lunch we loaded into the 4x4 trucks and 1964 Dodge Powerwagon that take us to our basecamp. A couple bouncy hours later, we unloaded, dusted off and set up the tents for a quick sleep. 


11:30pm dawned calm and star-lit, and we made quick work of the lower part of Orizaba. As we neared 17,000 feet, the sun came up and gave us the spectacular and classic pyramidal mountain shadow that Orizaba is famous for. 

As we climbed higher, it became clear that rumors of a very icy summit section were true. We watched as multiple teams above us on the steep summit headwall found more of the bullet-hard ice we’d found lower on the glacier, and winds strong enough to put them down on that ice multiple times. 

We had a chat as a group and concluded that our 18,000 foot high point (highest for all but the guides!) was certainly the best spot to turn around. It was a hard decision as Orizaba was our biggest goal. But ultimately we all agreed that safety on this huge exotic mountain was number one. 

We descended into a hot sunny afternoon and enjoyed our final evening with a delicious dinner, then made our way to the airport in the morning to some fond farewells. 

Until next time Orizaba!

Thanks to the team for a great trip and way too many memories to list here! 

RMI Guides Joe Hoch & Sam Hoffman

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Mt. Rainier: Okita, Konway, & Team Reach Columbia Crest with Beautiful Weather

RMI Guides Brent Okita and Jenny Konway radioed down from Columbia Crest, the true summit of Mt. Rainier, this morning to let everyone know that the team reached the summit. Brent reported clear skies, a calm breeze, and perfect weather for a day of climbing. The team began their descent from the crater rim of Mt. Rainier at about 7:30am PT and will be back in town for a celebration dinner later today. Congratulations to today's team!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Thanks everybody had a great time! Glad we all got back down alrighty.

Posted by: Jonathan J Paige on 6/14/2019 at 9:29 am

Congratulations Jonathon! We are so proud of you. I cant wait to hear your stories.

Posted by: Emily Paige on 6/2/2019 at 6:02 am


Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Cache Gear at 9,900’

June 3, 2014 - 7:55 pm PT Wow, it's nearly dinnertime and the team finally has a few minutes to check in. We have had a busy day. Despite a slightly ominous forecast, we awoke this morning to clear skies and no wind. Things looked favorable for us to move some group food up to a higher site. We ate a leisurely breakfast of bagels with bacon and cream cheese before loading up on a four-hour walk up to the cache site. This cycle of carrying gear up high, then returning back to a lower camp to sleep is crucial for our acclimatization. It exposes the body to a new altitude, but gives it time during the night to rest and recoup. We will be repeating this process with each of our higher camps. RMI Guides Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens and the Upper West Rib team

On The Map

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Awesome!
Keep up your great skills . Keep your warmth and continue strong. Hope the weather continue being nice to you guys. The Rosales Family sends love and good vibes to you guys.

Posted by: L. Rosales on 6/4/2014 at 1:55 pm

We send greetings from the mountains of Western North Carolina and good vibes that your quest goes smoothly and the weather continues to cooperate.
John- All of the family send their love!!

Posted by: Rita and BruceWightman on 6/4/2014 at 2:28 am


Mt. Rainier: July 24th Summit!

Brent Okita and the Four Day Summit Climb made the summit this morning with clear skies and 20 mph winds. With such beautiful weather, the team reached the summit early and were already back to the top of Disappointment Cleaver (12,200') at 7:40 a.m. Congratulations!
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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Carry from 11,000’

This is Dave Hahn calling from 11,000' on Mt. McKinley. And we carried today. It was a beautiful day. Perfect weather, everything we could ask for. Very calm and clear, we could see forever. As we got up on the hills above 11K, we could look down onto the tundra of the North. And then when we were going around Windy Corner, we could see way down the Kahiltna Glacier. In fact we could see all the way to the southern end of the Alaska Range, which is rare. We hope to move to 14,000' Camp tomorrow. Everybody's doing really well right now. It is all going great. It is clouding up a bit so we're hoping the good weather holds, but we're all pretty optimistic at the moment. Bye for now. RMI Guide Dave Hahn


Dave Hahn checks in from 11 Camp

On The Map

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Nice pic!

Posted by: michelle on 7/8/2011 at 7:13 pm

Pleased your weather has been holding.  Great to move higher.  Wayne, I am so very proud of your accomplishments.  wonderful time down south.  Back to paradise tomorrow.  love U, dinah

Posted by: dinah rogers on 7/8/2011 at 2:35 pm


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Take Care of Camp Chores

After a night of howling wind and snow, we woke up to a morning of howling wind and snow. We spent the morning digging out camp and continuing to reinforce walls. About the time we got everything squared away, the winds died down and it became pleasantly warm! The whole crew is happy and healthy. All of us want to thank our family and friends for their love and support. We love you and miss you too! I love you Amber and the P's! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

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Time is winding down quickly for us.  Glad to see you are all safe and sound with such a strong team.  Crossing my fingers for good weather.  Talk to you soon.

Posted by: BCK on 6/27/2011 at 5:38 pm

Hey, team. Glad to know that everyone is happy and healthy. Elias, you would be happy to know that I did 3 14ers over the past 2 days, and the training for Shisha Pangma is going even better than expected.

Hope the howling winds are showing some mercy today. Can’t wait to hear from you again,

Bridget

Posted by: Bridget Schletty on 6/27/2011 at 6:52 am


Mt. Rainier: Okita, Sinapius and Team Summit!

At 5:45 AM, under bluebird skies and in calm, clear, and beautiful conditions, the Four Day Climb team led by Brent Okita and Nick Sinapius reached the summit!  

They’re already on the descent, making the most of this perfect alpine morning.

Huge congrats to the team for a strong and successful push!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Amazing accomplishment congratulations on summiting
See you all soon !!!

Posted by: Maria Pelikan on 7/5/2025 at 11:22 am

Congratulations Team Skopic & Pelikan!  You rock!!!

Posted by: chris Skopic on 7/5/2025 at 11:01 am

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