May 26, 2015 - 11:13 pm PT
We woke to a swirling cloud cap above, that left little doubt that it was unpleasant in the West Buttress. We decided to wait the day yet again and see what tomorrow brings. We did take advantage of a break in the clouds to walk to the "Edge of the World', where Genet Basin drops almost 7,000 feet to the Northeast fork of the Kahiltna. The views from here are unsurpassed and everyone took turns being belayed out to the edge to snap photos. We'll give another shot at caching on the buttress tomorrow. We'll let you know how it goes.
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard, and team
Incredible photo!!, well done to all. Feels like you’ve been gone for a lot longer than 18 days renee, I’m sure it feels like a long time for you also :) , have been keeping an eye on your teams progress and letting everyone know updates including nan ron. she misses you like we all do but we are all incredibly proud and pumped for you to accomplish your goal! Cant wait to chat all about your trip. stay safe, loads of love xxx love leigh.
Posted by: Leigh on 5/28/2015 at 4:52 am
Team PRJ… wow sounds like mother nature is flexing her muscles. Hope you are keeping warm and well fed… especially Renee. I miss you so much! Work is not the same without you here! Each morning I read the blog to Cam in the car on the way to work… he is so impressed with your progress and is sending you his love and best wishes. Its Thursday arvo here in Oz and I have just had lovely Kenny’s for lunch (jealous much.. hahahaha) and Paul baked a Banana Cake (which will never be as good as Cameron’s let’s be honest) I hope that you are getting all these messages of support and cannot wait to get an email from you when you are off the mountain. Love you lots hunny bunny… stay strong, the final stages are now in your reach! Love Kath & Cam xxxx
After a delicious breakfast at Dr Reye's historic soap factory bed and breakfast, our team is on our way home.
A little more on the Orizaba climb:
We arrived at the Piedra Grande Hut on Friday afternoon. After a brief walk to help our bodies get used to the thin air, we settled into camp. Robby and I cooked the best chicken tacos Orizaba has ever seen. Fresh tortillas, guacamole, sautéed onions and peppers, rotisserie chicken and limes made for a great pre-climb feast. After the taco feed, we tucked into our tents for a few hours of sleep.
When we woke, the thick cloud that had engulfed camp before bed had cleared. It was a beautiful night without even a breath of wind.
We climbed through a maze of rock known as the Labrynth to the Jamapa Glacier. At over 16,000' we donned crampons and ice axes and roped together to work towards Orizaba's stunning summit crater.
Rest stepping, crampon technique and pressure breathing were the cornerstones of success as our team made switchbacks across the peaks northeast face. Our entire team climbed well until we were on the summit celebrating a hard fought ascent.
We enjoyed perfect, warm weather on top. After we had captured some photos and soaked in the amazing view, it was time to tackle the other half of the climb : the descent.
In keeping with the style they showed on the ascent, the team descended with great form and attention to footwork. Without a hitch, our team made it back to Piedra Grande.
A few hours of packing and 4x4 riding led us to a tasty meal and celebration at the Reyes soap factory. Sharing stories and jokes with the team was a terrific way to end a great climb and a rewarding trip.
Thanks to everyone on the team for their huge efforts and great attitudes!
Until the next climb ~
RMI Guides Zeb Blais & Robby Young
May 10, 10:50 pm PT
Well, the weather continues to treat us well up here on the Kahiltna Glacier. We moved from Camp 2 to Camp 3 (11,200') in beautiful, sunny weather; a light breeze kept us from over heating as we climbed up towards Kahiltna Pass. Once at camp we spent a few hours digging in and establishing a comfortable living situation. A well-earned dinner of quesadillas with fresh vegetables filled our stomachs before we crawled into our sleeping bags for the evening.
The weather forecast remains good, and tomorrow we will go down to 9500' to make a "back carry" and retrieve the extra equipment we left there in order to make our loads more manageable for the journey to camp 3. We'll be in touch again tomorrow.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Climb Strong! We are all behind you from Tampa. I am reading the blog to the girls for a bed time story so please through some princess stories in there.
Love,
Lennox
Posted by: Ken Lennox on 5/12/2014 at 5:15 am
Dad (Bob Strode),
Coming home from dinner to a mother’s day message from Camp 3 on Denali made my night. And may have almost made me cry, but we’ll blame pregnancy hormones for that.
Hope the weather stays so fabulous! Keep on staying strong! We all are sending good vibes and love from Ohio!
This is Adam Knoff from the Ecuador Skills Seminar. I am happy to announce that we have successfully summitted Cotopaxi this morning on a glorious, calm day. People could say it was in great style. I am very proud of the team for their efforts as it took some fortitude to get up on a cold and windy day. The expedition seminar has concluded its climbing on the mountains and we are happy to be tucked in here at La Cienega and drinking cervezas and very comfortable. Everything is fabulous. We will touch base tomorrow. Gracias. Adios.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
RMI Guide Adam Knoff calls in after Cotopaxi summit.
With an alpine start, we headed up the mountain. The first half of the climb we ascended slabby rock, up and up we went. Climbing below a moonless sky with stars forever. Although the forecast had called for high winds, it was still and quiet.
Soon we crossed the ridge to what is normally crampon point near 18,400 feet but it’s been a very dry winter in the Himalayas so we continued on a rocky ridge to nearly 18,800ft where we finally dawned our crampons and got on the steep snow and ice. First light of day was just beginning to show the outline of the mountains around us and it was beautiful. The colors of the sky changed and soon the sun came up! After a lot more steep climbing up the face of Lobuche we reached the summit.
We’ve now descended to Pheriche where we reunited with our other two team members and plan to all walk out together over the next few days.
The Mt. Rainier Four Day Climb August 9 - 12 led by RMI Guide Casey Grom reached the summit this morning around 7:15 AM. The guides reported a beautiful day with light winds. They will enjoy some time in the crater before starting their descent. Once back at Camp Muir the climbers will have a short rest to refuel and re-pack. The hike down from Camp Muir will take the team around 2 and 1/2 hours and the shuttle will then return them to Rainier BaseCamp where they will enjoy a bit of celebration.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Wednesday, June 6, 2018 - 4:43 PM PT
We were all set to climb to 17,000' Camp this morning but Denali had other plans for us. By 8 am this morning we could see strong winds blowing across our climbing route on the Buttress. We decided to put the move on hold until the winds slowed. Luckily, Mike Walter's team at 17 Camp provided hourly updates on the weather situation and we eventually decided that the weather was too severe to climb into today.
Not all was lost though, we took some time to remodel our mountain kitchen and built a new outhouse. Obviously important facilities when waiting out bad weather.
We will wake again tomorrow planning to move and see what the weather allows.
RMI Guide Walter Hailes
Jambo from Mt. Kilimanjaro! We are on the trail. Last night was wonderful at Barranco camp and this morning we slept in a bit before heading up the wall. The climbing was great and the group did very well. We can see the upper mountain glaciers and the high camp. We are getting close to our goal!
We are now at our Karanga Valley Camp. The team did great on the trail into camp. We had a great lunch here and have been relaxing this afternoon. Everyone is psyched for the trip to high camp tomorrow morning.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Everyone should be at camp by now resting and getting ready for the final push. I’m very hopeful everyone can make it. I’ll be thinking about you all a lot tonight. Best of luck!!!
Posted by: Rusty on 8/23/2014 at 5:14 am
So proud of you Josh. It’s great to see every step of the journey through these reports. We are bubbling with excitement for you here on the home front- everyone we see asking your report. Enjoy every moment- breathe deep- take it all in! Much love!
We finally saw a break in the weather today and took advantage by caching high on the West Buttress! Today's trip up the fixed lines was undoubtedly the most pleasant weather I have ever seen up here. Our team moved smoothly and efficiently all day in the midst of a throng of other climbers that had backed up at 14 over the past week of bad weather. If the good weather holds (it's supposed to) we're heading up to high camp tomorrow at 17k. The team is tired but will recover tonight for tomorrow's big move!
Ciao,
RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Solveig Garhart, and the gang
This is Seth saying hello from Everest Base Camp!
This is the team's second full day at base camp and we're steadily getting our communications gear online. We've got a large solar array and we are able to power all of our communication equipment completely by the sun. As you can imagine, though, getting several computers up and running for email access is not a trivial task at 17,500 feet in the heart of the Himalaya. That said, all of the planning and hard work that my boss, Jeff Martin, and our Basecamp Manager, Mark Tucker, have put in is paying off and we'll all be able to email and call our families and friends shortly.
It's not all about the modern conveniences here though. We've also been busy becoming a part of the base camp community. Last night we paid a visit to the Icefall Doctors and the Himalayan Rescue Association. RMI and First Ascent have made generous clothing and gear donations to the Icefall Doctors this season and last. Last night we dropped off new climbing clothes for 'the docs'. Those guys work extremely hard at establishing and maintaining the fixed ropes and ladders through the icefall so that the expeditions can focus on the upper parts of the mountain. It was great to be able to show our appreciation by giving them brand new climbing gear.
After visiting the Icefall Doctors we dropped by the HRA to visit the medical doctors at base camp. We had a few clothing items from First Ascent to share with them as well. The HRA is a full medical clinic that is open to anyone here at base camp. This allows expeditions to pool their money to fund the clinic as opposed to each expedition brining their own doctors. The doctors at the clinic usually conduct some kind of research and this year they are working on treatments for the notorious 'Khumbu Cough'. It's nice to know that there is work being done on a treatment for the painful cough; I just hope that no one in our expedition becomes part of the study.
We've also started to think about heading up the mountain. Today we had our Puja. This ceremony involves a blessing by a Buddhist Lama and the raising of our Puja Pole. It is also a big party and folks from around base camp dropped by to help us celebrate. Our camp is now laced with prayer flags and we have all been blessed and are now free to move up the mountain. This is most important for our Sherpa team as they do not enter the icefall until after the ceremony. Now that we've had our Puja we will spend several days practicing for the icefall and upping our acclimatization. Then we'll be ready to start our first rotations up into the Western Cwm. Wish us luck!
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Incredible photo!!, well done to all. Feels like you’ve been gone for a lot longer than 18 days renee, I’m sure it feels like a long time for you also :) , have been keeping an eye on your teams progress and letting everyone know updates including nan ron. she misses you like we all do but we are all incredibly proud and pumped for you to accomplish your goal! Cant wait to chat all about your trip. stay safe, loads of love xxx love leigh.
Posted by: Leigh on 5/28/2015 at 4:52 am
Team PRJ… wow sounds like mother nature is flexing her muscles. Hope you are keeping warm and well fed… especially Renee. I miss you so much! Work is not the same without you here! Each morning I read the blog to Cam in the car on the way to work… he is so impressed with your progress and is sending you his love and best wishes. Its Thursday arvo here in Oz and I have just had lovely Kenny’s for lunch (jealous much.. hahahaha) and Paul baked a Banana Cake (which will never be as good as Cameron’s let’s be honest) I hope that you are getting all these messages of support and cannot wait to get an email from you when you are off the mountain. Love you lots hunny bunny… stay strong, the final stages are now in your reach! Love Kath & Cam xxxx
Posted by: Kathy on 5/27/2015 at 9:28 pm
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