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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Hahn & Team at 14,000’

This is Dave Hahn calling down from 14,200 feet on Mt. McKinley. It's 8:11 in the evening. It is a beautiful day, absolutely spectacular. We are way up above the clouds. The sun is still out, it hasn't gone behind the West Buttress yet. We did a great job getting up today if I don't say so myself. We started out this morning from 11,000 at about 9:15 a.m.. We weren’t really sure what the weather was going to do, but it did hold long enough for us and we made good progress coming up to 14. We came around Windy Corner and we were up here in six hours, which is always good. From having camp at 11 all to ourselves last night and being relatively alone on the mountain, so far, we're definitely in the community of guides and climbers up here at 14. A number of teams came down the mountain from up above including our friend Linden Mallory and his team. And it's great to be with those guys here at 14. They're spending the night as well, so we've got company. Again, it's just perfect this evening there is not a puff of wind. We very are happy to be finishing up the approach to the mountain, and excited to begin the climb. Although, tomorrow we're actually going to finish up the approach. We're going to go back down and get the cache we left of food and fuel about 500 feet below camp. After we retrieve our cache then will be here for real. Bye for now. RMI Guide Dave Hahn


RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from 14,000 on Mt. McKinley

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WOW!!!!!  I am so excited for all of you.  Enjoy, Enjoy, Enjoy.  Love thru the wind to you Wayne, Dinah

Posted by: dinah rogers on 7/9/2011 at 9:00 am


Mt. McKinley: Great Day Caching Gear for Haugen’s Team

We woke up early to beautiful skies. Even though the sun never set, it was low enough to cast an orange glow on the large moon that hung over the Kahiltna Glacier. A five o'clock departure ensured solid glacier travel as we headed up to 10,100' to cache some of our gear. We plan to reunite with this gear when we do a ''back carry'' after we establish a camp at 11,000'. After 6 hours of climbing up to our cache and then back down to 7,800' camp, we spent the rest of the day resting and hydrating. We enjoyed some great conversation over Elias' amazing mountain quesadillas before heading to bed. Happy Father's Day to all of our dads! RMI Guide Mike Haugen P.S. Mrs. Chu, Patrick aced his finals! We are so proud!
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Hi everybody I am Elias´s brother, I am writting from Spain.I just would like to said Good luck to all of you! And please be carefull, there are a lot of danger at every step!

enjoy!

Posted by: JORGE DE ANDRES on 6/30/2011 at 1:54 pm

Happy Father’s Day to you all! I’m SO sorry I missed your call, I would have loved to hear the sound of your voice live (the message was nice though). We are all missing you and sending you lots of love. love, best daughter (hehe, the whole team is going to think your family is crazy!)

Posted by: Yashu on 6/19/2011 at 9:39 pm


Final Rotations Coming to an End

The final team is at Camp Three for the night. Just got off the radio with them and all is well. With great weather, all members... getten er dun! While the vast majority of the teams here have now finished with their acclimatization runs, RMI is wrapping it up in the next couple of days with great conditions and no crowds on the ropes. Our group has been working to support all waves in a very calculated way. This type of approach has proven itself time and again. In this extreme environment there is not much room for error. Here at Basecamp (17,500 ft) life is no picnic in itself, let alone these guys at 23,000 ft camped on an ice ledge with a couple of thousand feet of steep ice pulling at them from below. It's comforting to know our guys are some of the best in the business. Some of the other teams are going way down valley where things like trees grow. Man, do I miss the color green. Unless someone is a bit sick we will probably stay at Basecamp and rest here before the summit push. There are many different approaches about what to do at this pivotal point in the expedition, it's tough to second guess what is the right decision for each individual. Many an hour has been spent on this debate. In the end you make the call and hope for the best.
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Ruth Glacier Seminar: May & Team Explore the Ruth Gorge

Tuesday, May 6, 2025 

We woke up to a surprising blue bird day. The frosty tents and cold night told us the skies were clear. Taking advantage of the good weather we hiked along the relatively flat Ruth Glacier heading deeper into the gorge eyeing new terrain along the way. We caught a glimpse of the east face of Mount Dickey, basically two El Capitans  stacked on top of each other and riddled with snow and ice. After a whole day of exploring we made it back to camp just in time for a dinner of some tasty burgers. The team has decided that to counter the incoming bad weather we keep hearing about, they will work on digging underground tunnels from their tents to our cook tent using only sporks. Results to come in future posts.

RMI Guide Dan May & the Ruth Glacier Team

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Kilimanjaro: 100% to the Summit for Grom & Team

RMI Guide Casey Grom and the ENTIRE Kilimanjaro Climb and Safari team reached the summit of Kilimanjaro this morning. Casey reported cold and windy conditions on the summit. 

Way to climb!

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Denali Expedition: Wittmier & Team Cache Gear at the Base of Ski Hill

Ever read or watch that movie about the guy that gets stuck on Mars? I thought it would be a good one to reread on Denali. You know crazy location, far away from civilization, intense weather. Somehow, I completely forgot about the bit where he was stuck for over a year. Too stressful to read in the tent, I think I'll switch to something lighter like Stephen Kings IT.

Luckily Denali and Mars can be quite different. Lots of white here on Denali (you'll likely recall that Mars is mostly a red color). We can also breathe the air without a spacesuit! Lucky us. Oh, and the views! I'd like to say that pictures don't do it justice, but they sometimes can capture some of the majesty. What they can't do is give you the awestruck feeling of watching an avalanche off in the distance, or the feeling of seeing the bluest blue coming from the frozen snowy waves of crevasses one hundred feet to either side of the trail. Quite striking.

At breakfast somehow, I'm already looking forward to dinner -- the guides, Dustin, Lacie, and Dan have been crushing breakfast and dinners. They've been crushing at the guiding too. Every suggestion or advice is gold, and we always know the plan for the following day clearly. Over breakfast a day ago I joked that in addition to being amazing guides they are also chefs and therapists. They joke that they are only somewhat adequate in the latter two. We all think they're quite exceptional at both.

Today we hoofed it to about 10k feet, buried some stuff, and made our way back to the base of ski hill. If the weather is good tomorrow, we’ll make an even longer trek out of our current camp. If it's not so good, we'll hang out here. I know which one my feet would prefer.

Да луны и обратна,

RMI Climber Ilya Dvilyanski

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Denali Expedition: Wittmier & Team Camped at Base of Ski Hill

Thursday, May 16, 2024 - 12:11 am

We are camped at the base of Ski Hill, planning to carry tomorrow.

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Make a Break for 9,800’

Wednesday, June 23, 2021

At 2:30 this morning, things looked pretty optimal for moving on up the hill.  There were still clouds coming and going, but the glacier surface had frozen up nicely and there wasn’t much for wind.  We dressed up, ate, packed up and got moving by just after 5 AM.  Ski Hill needed climbing.  Definitely tougher terrain to move on than yesterday’s level stretches, but far fewer crevasses to deal with.  One hour took us halfway up, a second hour brought us to the flat at 9,000 ft and a final pull got the team onto the rolling plateau at 9,500 ft.  We were plotting out a new camp in the snow by 8:35, just before the sun hit the upper reaches of the Kahiltna Glacier.  It was pleasantly colder in our new home… just the way it should be.  We hope that any storms will now be snow rather than rain, but we shall see.  One is forecasted for tomorrow.  We may have to wait it out here, but our hope is to sneak up to 11,000 tomorrow morning before it hits.  We rested away the afternoon as the clouds built up.  Even with them we enjoyed some views far down the glacier.  Not quite to its terminus 44 miles away, but in the neighborhood for sure.  Dinner was devoured in our comfy dining tent on benches cut in the snow.  All are feeling good and pulling strong. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Kilimanjaro: Grom & Team Tackle the Barranco Wall

Hello again everyone, We had a slower start today to allow the many porters to hit the ever-narrowing trail. Right out of camp we were faced with the only real technical obstacle on the climb. This hurdle is the great Barranco Wall, which rises about 1,000ft and looks as intimidating as it sounds. Thankfully there is a nice goat trail that weaves its way up and through the wall and all the way to the top. Most of it feels more like steep hiking, but there are a few places that require the use of our hands to help us climb up. The team did a good job of moving steady and allowing a few porters through with their loads precariously balanced on their heads. Which was astonishing to see! After reaching the top we took a nice break and enjoyed the amazing views of the ice-ladened south face and valleys below. The team continued our hike for a few more hours up and down through a few valleys before reaching camp. All in all, it took only about four hours for us to reach our next camp called Karanga, named for the big and beautiful valley which it overlooks and the peanuts that are grown far below in the valley. RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew

On The Map

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Molly! I’ve been sending the blog to everybody! We are all cheering you on and praying for your health and a successful summit. I know in my heart you will succeed! I love you and miss you!

Posted by: Christopher Nagy on 9/21/2019 at 4:19 am


North Cascades: Walter & Team Summit Mt. Baker

The RMI Alpine Classic team has reached the summit of their first objective- the North Ridge of Mt. Baker! Route conditions and the weather were excellent. The team was approximately 14 hours round trip from high camp, summit, and back to high camp. The team is now resting at a hotel getting ready for their next peak, Mt. Shuksan via the Fisher Chimneys Route. RMI Guide Mike Walter
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