Most Popular Entries

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Summit on 4th of July

July 4, 2021

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, David Price, Liam Weed, Mike King, Seth Burns, Axel Ryd

Categories:

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI's Four Day Climb teams for July 1 - 4 led by RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer & Mike King reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning at 5:40 am. Pete reported a nice day with light winds, really nice climbing conditions and a great route. The climbs spent some time in the crater enjoying the views and getting all the photo ops. They began their descent from the crater rim around 7 am. Once back at Camp Muir they will repack and continue down to Paradise to conclude their climb.

We want to give a shout out to RMI Guides Henry Coppollilo and Leif Bergstrom who spent a long day on route work earlier this week and really worked hard to improve the route. Thank you!

Congratulations to today's climber

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations, what a great accomplishment!

Posted by: Jeff Means on 7/4/2021 at 9:02 am

« Bravo à toute l’équipe », congratulations to all of you, from France !!!

Posted by: Philippe Deiss on 7/4/2021 at 7:49 am

View All Comments

Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Face Tough Decision, To Go Up or Down

May 31, 2023

Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, Lauren Macklin

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Tuesday, May 30, 2023 - 10:55 pm PT

Yet another weather day, we woke up to snow covered tents and cold temperatures. We had our final bagel meal of the trip, paired with smoked salmon. As we sat in and out of the clouds, and snowfall we waited for the other RMI teams to descend from 17,000' Camp. Tomorrow morning marks a decision point. We need a three day weather window to open up before Thursday for us, otherwise we run out of food at 14,000' Camp, and then have to go retrieve our cache from 16,300' and then eat our summit food. Leaving us out of food if a summit window did open up later. Tomorrow morning we should have clarity if Wednesday, Thursday, Friday will be a viable option. The other tricky component is a very large system seems to be slated to hit the mountain Friday, bringing more snow and more wind. This storm could run it's course as late as next Tuesday or so. Leaving us completely out of food by the time weather improves. All that said, with an updated forecast tomorrow morning we may make the call to either go for it, or to grab the cache and get out so we don't get stuck for the entire storm. We will check in tomorrow with whatever we hear!

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Proud of you Matt and team for all you have accomplished!

Posted by: Kathleen George on 6/1/2023 at 2:56 pm

Positive vibes headed your way for a good weather window! Keep it up Dawn, you got this!!

Posted by: Kendyl on 6/1/2023 at 4:47 am

View All Comments

Mt. Everest Expedition: Acclimatizing at ABC

May 2, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Melissa Arnot

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 21,300'

Hello, This is Dave Hahn calling from Advanced Base Camp on Mt. Everest. Beautiful day today, it was kind of windy last night and wind continued during the day. Roaring up above and just gusting down below where we were. We went for a hike, a roped up hike with crampons and ice axes, exploring the upper end of the Western Cwm. We went up to the start of a new climbing route, a new way of accessing the Lhotse face that a number of friends of ours were working hard to put in today. We wanted to check out their efforts and get a look at the terrain over there. So this a bit several hundred meters to one side of the existing route where it crosses the Bergschrund at the base of the face which is a little too active in rock fall in the conditions that we have right now. So this is an effort to try to find an alternative. It was a good outing for us. We were out for about 3 hours and enjoyed working against the altitude and working in the cold wind and seeing things from a little bit different angle. We came back and spent the afternoon in camp. Consensus is that conditions are pretty dry and dangerous on the Lhotse face. So many teams were not having their members or Sherpa go up on the standard route, but others were. Our intention now, not being able to safely climb at the moment without some new snow or some change, is to head down to Base Camp in the morning. So that is what we are looking to do – up early and heading down. That’s all for now. RMI Guide Dave Hahn

RMI Guide Dave Hahn reports from ABC.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good Luck Dave! Have fun and safe travels!

Posted by: Mike Iem on 5/5/2012 at 7:19 am

So very jealous!!! A dream come true to summit Everest!Stay safe and careful….we look forward to each and every update!

Posted by: Keith Rayeski on 5/3/2012 at 2:35 pm

View All Comments

Denali Expedition: SUMMIT!

June 17, 2022

Posted by: Avery Parrinello, Jack Delaney, Liam Weed

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 20,310'

Friday, June 17, 2022 1:47 AM

June 17th 2022 - THE TEAM SUCCESSFULLY SUMMITS!

Well hot diggity dog we did it! We went to bed with several inconclusive weather forecasts stressing us out and a weather check at 4:30 confirmed cloudy skies. Alas our actual wake up of 6:30 gave us the surprise “nowcast” we had been waiting for, clear skies and no sign of winds! Huzzah! We quickly set about rallying the troops and making hot water for breakfast. When it was all said and done we were walking by 8:30 headed up, up, up! We first scaled the imposing and cold “Autobahn”. A large steep traverse that gains us about a 1,000 feet. Next we zig and zagged through “Zebra Rocks” gaining more elevation rapidly. Next we meandered slowly and steadily uphill crossing the Denali summit plateau until we got to the “Football Field” a large flat zone that led to our final two obstacles. “Pig Hill” and the summit ridge proper! Pig Hill is a daunting final push up several switch backs to gain elevation before traversing the true summit ridge. The Summit Ridge gave us incredible views and big exposure before finally giving way to the true summit itself! The highest point in North America! There was much congratulating and picture taking and before you know it, it was time to head down. We retraced our steps safely and efficiently all the way back to camp. The crew was tired, thirsty and hungry but by jove they’d done it! All told 13 hours round trip. After being fed and watered, it was quickly lights out for everyone.

Talk to you tomorrow friends, family and loved ones!

RMI Guides Avery, Jack, Liam and the Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations Heather and everyone on this expedition. What an accomplishment. I saw this image and got chills. I can’t even imagine the feeling of reaching the summit after all your training prior to arriving and then the last three weeks. Heather, thank you so much for fundraising for ANRF and arthritis research. YOU are amazing!

Posted by: Jenn on 6/20/2022 at 6:16 pm

Congratulations to all and Rebecca! Your Mecha Team has been cheering you on from Colorado. We are proud of you! Get home safe and soon!

Posted by: Courtney Hutton on 6/18/2022 at 7:19 pm

View All Comments

Vinson Massif: Departure for Antarctica

December 3, 2011

Posted by: Jeff Martin

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif

Hello from Punta Arenas, We had the call this morning that we were on standby for our flight. Union Glacier was cloudy, but the report was that the weather was starting to improve and they would re-evaluate at 12:30 pm. We all crossed our fingers that the team could get going towards Vinson. The second call came in right at 12:30 and we were told that the bus is coming to pick us up at the hotel at 1:25 pm. The flight is a go! There were several other groups to pick up on the way to the airport, but the plane was loaded and ready for passengers. After an abbreviated security check, the bus pulled up right next to the plane and 15 minutes later everybody was on board and ready to go. It's about 4 1/4 hour flight down to Union Glacier . They carry enough fuel so that if they get down there and are unable to land, they can turn around and head back to Punta Arenas. Hopefully not the case for this flight. Once they land on the glacier, they will meet up with Dave Hahn, and if the weather is decent, the plan is for a quick turn around at Union Glacier, switching planes, and heading directly to Vinson Basecamp. The next dispatch will be from Dave and the crew on the ice. RMI Guide Jeff Martin

Leave a Comment For the Team

Mountaineering Training | Climber’s Perspective on Balancing Work and Training for Mt. Rainier

July 15, 2013

Posted by:

Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training

Mt. Rainier, everyday, when it’s not cloudy … I get to see Mt. Rainier. Ever since I moved to the Seattle area 10 years ago, I’ve been looking at that mountain, knowing that I would summit it someday. This September, with RMI Expeditions, I will be able to attempt the climb and hope that the mountain allows me to summit. Every day for the past 8 months I have been waking up and heading to the gym at 4 AM to work out. I have been part of a fitness program getting back into shape, and now, down 80lbs, I have been inspired to make my summit a reality this fall. The great thing about living in the Pacific Northwest is that I get to look at the mountain almost daily and it serves as a constant reminder of what I am training for. That training has to be incorporated into a very busy life, balancing my work and family schedules, but as many I have talked with, every bit of training you do is more ‘fuel’ in your tank for when you summit - that is what drives me to get up every morning. As someone who works in marketing for a major software company in Redmond, my days are kept very busy, and 9 - 10hr work days on top of training is at times challenging to keep up with. The way I keep life balanced is by starting my days early as it helps me get in what I need to at the gym and allows for some quiet time in the office to catch up on email before the busyness of the day begins. My days look like the following: • 4 AM: Alarm goes off and I drag myself out of bed. • 5 AM: At the gym to get in a 60 - 90 minute workout doing either circuit training, or a mountain conditioning class at the Pro Sports Club. • Around 7 AM I am into work for a full day. • 4 PM: I either head home for the day to relax or I head to Tiger Mountain’s cable line trail for training on Tuesdays & Thursdays. • Eat dinner when I get home. • 8:30-9 PM: Head to bed to rest for another busy day. Right now I’m doing a combination of circuit training and a mountain conditioning course Monday - Thursday at the gym and on Fridays I workout my bigger muscle groups and do a short 30 min on cardio. On Monday and Wednesday after work I head to the driving range to mix it up a bit and have some fun. Tuesday and Thursdays are my big days where I have both mountain conditioning and I head up and do the Tiger Mountain Cable Line Trail (1000 vertical feet in a little over a mile). I use Fridays to recover and I do major hikes for training over the weekends, and try to include my wife on some of these more “fun” hikes. Balancing the heavy training schedule with work and a family is very tricky, but I also remember this is only for a short period of life, and I am constantly reminded of the goal ahead when I catch a glimpse of Mt. Rainier peeking out from the clouds. - Jeff Marcoux _____ Jeff Marcoux is an avid hiker & lover of micro brews who lives with his wife in Seattle, WA.

Leave a Comment For the Team

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team On Their Descent

July 6, 2019

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Jenny Konway, Grayson Swingle

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Friday, July 5, 2019 - 11:02 PM PT We woke up when the direct sun hit our tents and sprung into action. We had done coffee and ate some breakfast and headed downhill. After a great climb along the ridge out of 17,000' Camp, we hit the fixed lines and made our way down to 14,000' Camp. Since the temperatures have been so warm lately, we decided to set up camp here at 14k. We will head further downhill when the temps are cooler and the glaciers are more frozen. We will see how far we make it on our walk out tomorrow. We may make it as far as Basecamp and catch a plane tomorrow. If the snow gets too soft, we can camp one more night and head back to Talkeetna the next day. Let's hope for a good freeze! RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team Siete

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I bet you are all ready to get off the mountain- Meghan did you bring any wine to celebrate?
Congratulations and hope everyone has an easy descent!
Hugs, Lisa

Posted by: Lisa Miller on 7/6/2019 at 10:43 am

Who ever thought you would need cooler temps to continue? Prepare yourself. It’s 100 degrees and higher, in many states throughout the US, and California has had its share of earthquakes/aftershocks during the past 2-3 days.

Enjoy yourselves and be safe as you complete this amazing journey. Kristen is looking forward to seeing you,Tym. Don’t forget to send a few pictures.

GO TYM!! GO TEAM!!

Love Mom and Zeppelin

Posted by: Kristi Kennelly on 7/6/2019 at 9:58 am

View All Comments

Mentally Preparing for the Summit

May 15, 2009

Posted by: Melissa Arnot

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 21,200 ft.

Waking up at 3:30 a.m. is never easy, especially at 17,500 ft. Somehow though, as the alarm went off yesterday morning, it was easy to rise. The wind was blowing gently, making the tents speak - I think they were saying "get outta here." As I began crunching through the icefall, the normal adrenaline kicked my pace up a notch, but also the excitement for what is ahead. Even though I have been through the icefall many times, this time it feels different. I am hopeful that when I come back down, I will not have to go back up again - this is our summit push. As I wind through the ice blocks and snow-covered crevasses, I have to admit I am filled with a new kind of trepidation. Mt. Everest is the tallest mountain on this earth, and even in normal conditions it would hand me a challenge. This year has been different though, as it has been filled with some extra challenges. I wanted to attempt to climb without supplemental oxygen, and that certainly added an unknown element to the trip. I have had many questions for myself since I made that decision, the biggest of course being: "Is it possible?" Early on in the trip I injured my ankle and that has really slowed me down, not just physically but mentally as well. I really feel like I need to be 100% to try to climb without O2, and as the trip has gone on, it has become clear that this isn't the case. At any rate, climbing Mt. Everest will still give me a great challenge and there is still so much work to be done. As I lie in my tent resting at Camp 2, I think about the climbers surrounding me. It is certainly humbling to be around some of the world's best (and strongest) mountaineers, as well as the cameramen who work twice as hard as any of the climbers. It is also pretty special to see Erica attempt to tackle a goal so large. At times I have to remind myself that she is really one of the only people here who isn't climbing for a profession, and I admire her strength and adaptability to work with this group. Today is a rest day, and my mind is already playing with the thoughts about summit day - how will the weather be, will I feel strong, how can I be an asset to the team... But summit day could still be days away, so for now I will quiet my mind, rest my body, and let the gratitude I feel for where I am right now wash over me.

Leave a Comment For the Team

Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Set To Fly

November 26, 2021

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif

Seven in the morning and we are out at the airport in Punta Arenas, through security and ready to fly to the Ice.

Lots of excited and oddly dressed people. There will be eighty people on the flight. Some climbers for Vinson, some skiers for the South Pole, some Emperor Penguin lovers and some eclipse watchers.

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team

Mt. Rainier: July 16th Update

July 16, 2013

Posted by: Paul Maier, Mike Haugen

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by Jason Thompson reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team reported a beautiful day with clear views and winds at about 25 – 30 mph. They also reported that the route work recently done made for great climbing. The Kautz seminar led by Mike Haugen also checked in this morning. The team topped out via the Kautz Route and began their descent at 9:15 a.m. Mike and team will stay on the mountain one more night and be back to Ashford tomorrow. The Paradise Glacier Seminar led by Garrett Stevens is on day 3 of their 6-day seminar. They will spend two more days lower on the mountain before moving up to Camp Muir for their summit bid. Beautiful day on the mountain!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to you all! you made it, crazy Uncle Dan!

Posted by: Jennifer Robinson on 7/16/2013 at 2:49 pm

Congrats to everyone. So proud of my son John and his buddy Andrew! Hope you had the time of your life!

Posted by: Pattie Campbell on 7/16/2013 at 2:30 pm

View All Comments

Previous Page Next Page

Check Availability

Most Popular Entries

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Summit on 4th of July

Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Face Tough Decision, To Go Up or Down

Mt. Everest Expedition: Acclimatizing at ABC

On The Map

Denali Expedition: SUMMIT!

Vinson Massif: Departure for Antarctica

Mountaineering Training | Climber’s Perspective on Balancing Work and Training for Mt. Rainier

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team On Their Descent

On The Map

Mentally Preparing for the Summit

Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Set To Fly

Mt. Rainier: July 16th Update

Contact Us

Privacy Policy

Translate

Log In

Register With Us

Check Availability

Most Popular Entries

On The Map

On The Map

New Post Alerts:Expedition Dispatches

New Post Alerts:
Expedition Dispatches