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Posted by: Mark Tucker
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek
Posted by: James Bealer, Josh Geiser
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,781'
The Mt. Baker Easton Glacier Team was on the summit of Mt. Baker at 11:24 am today. RMI Guide James Bealer reported a "Blue Bird" day of climbing, with clear skies, and warm temperatures. The team climbed in their t-shirts and only passed one team on the way to the top, perfect conditions. They are on their way back to camp where they will spend one more night before descending to the trailhead.
Congratulations Team!
I am thrilled to announce to the blogosphere and those actually following that our intrepid group of mountaineers all reached the summit of 18,996’ Volcan Cayambe this morning at 6 am. Having been on this mountain close to a dozen times, I can honestly say this was likely the nicest route conditions and weather combination I have ever experienced. Excellent snow texture, light wind and perfect temps made for a day that will be hard to follow on our next two objectives.
Our day began slightly less than perfect with an 11pm alarm jolt which politely ripped me from my sleep which I had finally achieved a mere 30 minutes before. Oh the joys of an honest alpine start.
After flipping a coin to decide if I should put my harness on before doing something usually done before the harness goes on, the quarter landed tails so I harnessed up and hoped for the best. While continuing to ready ourselves, one of our team members opted not to join the climb because of a strained knee which was heartbreaking news, so upon departure, we were six instead of seven. Maria, you were with us in spirit the entire way!
As the climb progressed, even the local guides couldn’t stop commenting on how beautiful the night was. This is also Hannah’s first big mountain in Ecuador so she better not get too used to this. Especially on Cayambe. We all need to crack a cervesa and toast the weather gods.
With incredible summit photos and hugs proof of our ascent, the descent went as smooth as the climb. Three hours after leaving the top everyone was safe and sound back at the hut drinking coffee and eating freshly prepared scrambled eggs. Shortly after breakfast we loaded the trucks and headed back to town.
By 3:30 this afternoon we had put a serious dent in our hacienda's beer supply and couldn’t believe we were standing on the summit a mere eight hours previous. Ah the beauty of not having to pack up camp and keep marching! This is how mountain climbing should be (most of the time).
Now the team is continuing to celebrate and fight off the exhaustion that comes with ten hours on the move at altitude. They are strong in more ways than one!
Congrats to a job well done.
Fantastic journey. To reach such a ‘high’. Congrats to each of you for the safe adventure, These moments that you share with us, that will be held in the depths of your minds and hearts, will become a part of you for life. Thanks for allowing us to read, just a little, about your moments in time.
Posted by: Terri L. Jennings on 2/15/2022 at 10:16 am
Memories of the static electricity on Cayambe!! That sure was an experience! So cool you had great weather!!!
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 2/15/2022 at 3:04 am
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest
Elevation: 21,300'
Dave Hahn calls in from Advanced Base Camp.
James please make sure you are on the lookout for saquatch stealing your food. Its happened once it could happen again. Stay safe my friend.
Posted by: Raymond Brown on 4/29/2013 at 8:36 am
Great going, Dave. Hope the weather holds. Can’t wait to hear about the brawl at 26,000 ft that was in the news today.
Stay safe,
Chuck
Posted by: Chuck Roberts on 4/29/2013 at 8:26 am
Posted by: Alex Van Steen, Mark Tucker
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Carstensz Pyramid
On The Map
Houston`s climate is not that bad after all. Hope you all will keep up the good spirit and enjoy the reward of being able to do what you are doing.What an experience it is. I am curious to see some pictures after you are all back in good health.
Pap en Mam
Posted by: Richard van Steen on 7/2/2012 at 6:26 am
Alex, Mark and team, Amakane!Mark your blog reminds of a poem my Mom wrote “Oh give me a mountain to climb! Im leaving the jungle trail, the steamy swamps and the lowlands, give me a mountain to scale. I’ve been cut by the jungle grasses, I faint in the tropical heat, to plow through the mire is exhausting the mud has made heavy my feet….” You will soon be wondering at the towering crags above you, gasping at the vast unclimbed faces! Hey that wall of roots is pretty wild, eh? 5.8 climbing in the jungle! Ka noae!
Posted by: amy on 7/2/2012 at 2:29 am
Day 13
The team awoke to warm bagels and crackling bacon. That was the warmest part of the day. It was a frigid one. We practiced cramponing while dashing in and out of our sleeping bags. Now is the trickiest part of any expedition. We sit, checking the weather repeatedly, waiting for our weather window to climb. Despite so much time in the tent, we are ready when the time comes.
Till next time,
RMI Guide Luke Wilhelm & Team
Hey Dad,
Hope you are staying warm and keeping up morale while you wait for a clear safe opening for you to summit. Thinking of you! Sending Love and Strength!
Kelly
Posted by: Kelly on 2/3/2022 at 6:23 pm
Sounds like a you’re in good company while you await your window for summiting. Sending prayers the weather God’s turn in your favor. In the meantime, eat, rest, and relish in your magical winter wonderland adventure. We love you!
Love and God Bless,
ChrisBoLillianCarl
Posted by: ChrisBoLillianCarl on 2/2/2022 at 7:45 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert, Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 20,310'
Thursday, June 3, 2021 - 10:27 am PT
We've waited through wind and snow for weeks and we finally got our shot. We woke up yesterday to clear skies and relatively (for 17k feet) warm temps in camp. We had stoves firing early, before sun hit camp, and got everyone up to start prepping. With breakfast done and packs loaded we stepped out of our sunny camp into the shadow of the Autobahn. It was a chilly couple hours crossing to Denali Pass and we were all psyched to get back into the sun. A slight, but cold 10mph breeze in our face kept it chilly all day, but we kept moving past Zebra Rocks, around Archdeacons Tower, onto the Football Field, up Pig Hill, and along the summit ridge to the summit! We were standing on top just after 6pm yesterday. With photos taken, we started working our way back down, well aware of the distance still to get back to the comfort of our sleeping bags. The long hours of sun help alot and we rolled back into camp around 11pm, just as the sun left camp. Tired, chilly, sore, but excited that we managed to reach our goal!
We'll start working our way down the mountain today, back to warmer temps, more oxygen, and a flight back to Talkeetna. They tend to be long days, so dispatches might be short, but we are headed home.
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert, Luke Wilhelm, and RMI Teams 1 and 2
What an amazing accomplishment all of you have made !! Marc, I am so proud and honored to have you as my son.
Love you, Papa Bear
Posted by: David Gollob on 6/5/2021 at 7:33 am
Congratulations all! Such a lifetime of memories. Be safe coming down so you can make more memories.
Posted by: Susan K. Moore on 6/4/2021 at 10:27 pm
Posted by:
Categories: Guide News Guide Grant
Posted by: Peter Whittaker, Jess Matthews
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 12,000'
Posted by: Alex Van Steen
Categories: Guide News Responsible Climbing
To All, especially Pete and Gerry… We’re pulling for you!!!
Posted by: mick on 3/25/2013 at 3:50 am
Mark, Many thanks for the wonderful photos and updates-we are there with you! Love to Liesl and Pete from their Durango family.
Posted by: Claudia and Jim on 3/23/2013 at 6:47 pm
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