The Mt. Shuksan Seminar, led by RMI Guide Geoff Schellens, reached the summit today. The wildfire smoke obstructed some of the views but the team had a great time on a spectacular route! Some photos from the team above.
The Four Day Summit Climb team led by RMI Guide Kel Rossiter reached to summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Kel reported a great day of climbing with beautiful clear skies. The team has started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir
Congratioulations to today's team!
RMI Guide JJ Justman called at 7:05 a.m. The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams were beginning their descent from the crater rim! The weather on the summit was a bit windy but clear skies made for nice views in every direction.
Congratulations to today's summit climbers!
Friday June 12th 10:10 pm PT
Fortress at 14k on Mount McKinley!
Today was a clear day but the winds raged as the high pressure slowly comes our way!
The fortress of snow-block walls now fully encloses our tents and cook house with an entry straight from stone hedge! A giant block caps the archway leading into our dojo!
The wind still whips as plumes of blowing snow briefly create little to no visibility in camp. A blue bird day that is hampered by a ground blizzard. If you ask me this is what the experience of Denali is all about. In the next few days the wind will likely subside and crystal clear skies, warm and breathless air will remain. Fingers crossed we will get our perfect day to climb and stand atop the highest point in North America. Till then we'll hang low in our tents basking in our BO stir fry;).
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
Thursday, May 28th 10:37 pm PDT
We woke up this morning to blue skies in Talkeetna, which meant great weather for flying! After a meal at the roadhouse we scurried over to hangar to transition from Talkeetna street walkers to Denali climbers. With climbing boots on and smiles on our faces we enjoyed a great flight onto the mountain.
Once we arrived at Basecamp the team was highly efficient organizing their gear. After a minimal amount of time at Basecamp we embarked on our journey up the Kahiltna Glacier. Several hours later we arrived at our camp for the night at 7,800'. The team immediately set up tents to shade themselves from sun and nestled in. After a delicious meal of Annie's Mac and cheese we hunkered down for the night.
We will check in again tomorrow night after another day of good work.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
Today team Ecuador departed from this countries capital. As stimulating and convenient as things are out the door of our hotel, it was time to say adios to the blaring horns, thick bus exhaust and raucous night life, which we never saw. So this morning we checked out and loaded some 30 giant duffle bags into the mini bus transporting us to our next acclimating climb. I figured if we were to stack everyone's bags on top of each other we could claim the world's tallest pile of mountain climbing stuff. Instead we just put a deep sag into the bus's rear tires.
Ecuador is a beautiful country with growing oil wealth which is obvious in many new infrastructure projects throughout the country. They still have a long way to go though so the 100 miles we drove today took almost three hours. Our stopping point was high above the beautiful town of Otovalo, where tomorrow we will buy all blog followers nice gifts at Ecuador's most famous market. We eventually reached Laguna de Mojanda, a beautiful high mountain lake, once a giant crater, and began our climb toward the summit of Fuya Fuya. The trail up led us through gorgeous grasses and flowers to a steep final section before reaching the 14,000 foot summit. Blessed again by fairly clear skies, we had great vistas of Quito in the distance and lush green mountain sides closer to us. The team got goofy for our summit photo so we chose to rename the mountain Fuya Kung Fuya. Seems to fit...
After returning to the bus we refreshed ourselves by washing up in the lake (no one took the skinny dip challenge) and headed to our house of sun or Casa Sol where we enjoyed cold beers and a delicious dinner. As of yet, no one is going hungry. Nick and I start cooking for the group tomorrow night so that could change.
But for now all is well. We look forward to putting our bargaining skills to use tomorrow and then heading up to our first BIG mountain.
Buenas Noches from Casa Sol.
RMI Guides Adam Knoff, Nick Hunt and Team Ecuador
New scenery is always a welcome site on an expedition and the carry to Aconcagua Camp 2 (18,000ft) is always one of my favorite parts of the trip! The route from Camp 1 had us traveling west across the flanks of a broad basin until we eventually made a sharp turn north and headed towards the col between Aconcagua and fellow neighboring peak Cerro Ameghino. This is where it gets good! Crossing over the col the high Andes open up in front of us and we're left with stunning views of big glaciers and 6,000m peaks.
Everyone woke this morning to the sound of silence... Ah, yes! The winds finally died down and we were left with a breathless morning and we couldn't have been more thrilled. Higher elevation, new views, warm temperatures and no wind. Couldn't have asked for a better day! The crew did a fantastic job navigating new terrain and thinner air today and with a rest day planned for tomorrow the team will prepare for the move to Camp 2 on Christmas Day! What better way to spend Christmas than with a headache and a rough nights sleep!? No, in all seriousness the team has been handling the altitude like champs and they're excited to be just a little bit closer to the summit. Everyone sends their best regards to their loved ones and stay tuned for the always riveting rest day blog update!
RMI Guide Steve Gately
Another excellent day on Mount Shuksan in the North Cascades...this time we woke up before dawn and cramponed up the Sulphide Glacier to the base of the summit pyramid, where we ditched the crampons and ice axes and climbed 4th and 5th class rock for 800 vertical feet to the summit!
Our entire team reached the summit in good style. The weather was perfect so we hung out on the summit for over an hour before descending. We were back in camp around 2 p.m. for a round trip of a little over eight hours. The training over the past week really paid off and nobody struggled with the technical terrain at all. Congrats team!
RMI Guide Mike Walter
After that slight worry that the weather was going to fall apart on us yesterday, we experienced our calmest and warmest night of the trip so far. Followed by a perfect and cloudless morning at Camp One while we knocked the tents down and loaded up for the move to high camp. The route is now familiar and we chugged along with very few other climbers in our vicinity. First to the pass between Aconcagua and its neighbor, Ameghino, and then up a broad shoulder until we traversed slightly to the North and made our way into high camp in virtually windless conditions. We got our tents up, tried to drink a bunch of water and did some easy review of the climbing techniques we'll rely on for our ascent tomorrow. We sat out in the strong sun for dinner with the Aconcagua veterans on the team explaining that they'd rarely experienced such perfect summer weather so high on the hill. The views are tremendous from this camp, and the remaining slopes of Aconcagua are formidable- towering steeply above us, but the team did great moving up today and everybody seems primed for an alpine start and a chance at the summit tomorrow.
Fingers Crossed,
Dave
Congrats Jacob. Way to go.
Posted by: Scotty on 7/26/2017 at 7:42 pm
Dude!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Posted by: Kyle U. on 7/26/2017 at 5:40 pm
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