Hannah Smith called in by SAT Phone this morning to let us know that the entire team had reached the summit of Mt. Baker via the Easton Glacier route. She reported excellent warm weather and a great route. The team has begun their descent and will return to town today for showers and a fresh meal.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Monday, June 10, 2019 - 8:05 PM PT
We broke down camp quickly this morning. As quickly as anything happens at 17,000 ft. We’re in our tents at 11,000 feet now. It’s a long, hot day getting down here with all of our gear, but we’re one step closer to the airstrip. We’ll take a quick nap here, wake up around midnight, and then walk the rest of the way in the morning, hopefully landing us in position for a flight out around 8am.
RMI Guide JM Gorum
Our utmost appreciation and gratitude to JM, JT and Dustin for successfully and safely guiding the team up and down Denali! The blog posts and pictures were awesome! Thank you from the Adams family and all Brit’s supporters!
We are back at Senior Reyes' historic soap factory turned climbers hostel. The Mexican music and loud fireworks are going off like we had some remote control. The roosters and dogs are going berserk. But all the local acoustic entertainment is just part of climbing and traveling in Mexico. We are wrapping up a great 10 days with a fun group of guys. We climbed and stood on top of three volcanoes, ate amazing food, sampled many of the local libations and enjoyed some of the clearest views of this area anyone in recent past has ever seen. This trip isn’t so much of an expedition as it’s a fun Mexican vacation where we climb high altitude volcanoes instead of sitting on the beach. If you need to test your mind, body and spirit at altitude this is a good choice. We will be getting an early start towards the airport tomorrow. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
The Five Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Solveig Waterfall reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Solveig and team spent two nights at Camp Muir taking advantage of extra day to acclimate to the higher elevation. This payed off with a successful climb this morning! The team has started their descent and are en route back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's team!
May 30, 2017
Greetings RMI Denali followers, this is Robby Young with the May 3rd Denali Expedition calling you from Day 26. We are sitting in the sunshine here at 14,000' Camp. We awoke this morning to some cloudy skies, some high winds and snow which delayed our progress uphill just one more day. It looks like the weather is going to be beautiful tomorrow and the next few days giving us our opportunity to finally climb higher on the mountain. We are looking forward to a move to 17,000' Camp tomorrow morning if the weather does in fact allow. Until then, we will talk to you soon.
Caio,
RMI Guide Robby Young
RMI Guide Robby Young calls from 14,000 ft on Denali.
The bet was that the Eagles Greatest Hits sold more than 29 million, which it did…I agreed that Thriller sold more.
:0
Also, amazing that you guys summited! Nicely done dudes.
- Mark
Posted by: Mark on 6/7/2017 at 11:54 am
Pretty sure it still isn’t close to Thriller at #1 all time. You can mail me the $50 or send it PayPal. Glad you guaranteed the Eagles was the highest selling all time.
Comedian Mitch Hedberg once said during a comedy skit, "I just want to be a mountain climber so I can wear brightly colored clothes, hang out at Base Camp, and drink hot cocoa." Today, for the second day in a row, we harnessed our inner Hedberg, and did just that. Our last rest day before the start of our second rotation onto the upper slopes of Shishapangma was filled with nourishment of all forms, and plenty of rest. Some of us practiced our favorite base camp activity, "sport eating." Others took competitive napping to the next level. While another team member continued his rein as supreme cribbage champion of Shishapangma 2016. Regardless of our chosen rest day activities, we all did the best we could to prepare our bodies and our minds for what lies ahead. Our second rotation begins tomorrow with a move to Depot Camp, followed by a return to Camp 1 at 20,000', and finally up to Camp 2 near 22,000' by the end of the work week. We're all feeling great, looking good, and ready for the upcoming challenge here on the 14th highest mountain in the world. We'll check in tomorrow from Depot Camp.
RMI Guides Robby, Elias, Adam, and the Shishapangma Team
Sandra, best efforts there on the mountain.
Jim W.
Posted by: Jim Wilder on 9/20/2016 at 9:20 am
Good to hear everyone is rested, but no doubt when this is read that recuperation will be a dim memory! Be strong on the way to Camp 2 and be well. We’ll eagerly await tomorrow’s update!
Posted by: Rick Deerwester on 9/20/2016 at 5:35 am
June 13, 2015 4:31pm PST
The final day of waiting and preparation... We hope! Today is a calm and sunny day at 14 camp, although the small plumes of snow still sail above us on the West Buttress ridge and upper mountain. With groups of climbers from around the world stacking up over the last week of poor weather, the headwall and fixed lines were crawling with dozens of folks on the move -- Making for one full boat on the route today. Our decision to stall and let the hoards move on and winds continue to die down will hopefully give us a smooth and ultimately safer move. We want to work smarter not harder and like a raven sailing on the afternoon thermals give our team the best and smoothest climb we at RMI can offer.
Thank you all for the comments, wish us luck and we hope to check in from high camp tomorrow! Cheers!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team
Ken, you guys are so close! Sounds like you have a. Dry smart guide and a great team. I know you are all about working smarter and not harder. We learn a lot together at work, i can’t wait to all of the life lessons and self discover you must be experiencing on this trip. Praying for clear ski so you and your team can work smart and make it to the top.
Posted by: Dennis Canevari on 6/13/2015 at 9:40 pm
D.G., Prayers for success and safety to all. Ted has his fingers crossed. Love you, Mom
Posted by: Caroline Clayton on 6/13/2015 at 7:46 pm
May 27, 2014 - 7:21 pm PT
Update on Mike Walter's team from Brent Okita:
While basking in the warmth and comfort of our tent this afternoon, Mike Walter and his team pulled in after spending an epic thirteen days at 14,200' camp without getting a break in the weather suitable for a realistic summit bid. That no other guided group has summited the mountain attests to the particularly bad weather they've encountered.
The team joined us for some soup and are now walking down the Kahiltna Glacier headed for the airstrip and hopefully a plane back to Talkeetna tomorrow morning. We wish them well and praise their tenacity, fortitude and strong work on the upper mountain. They deserve huge kudos for their efforts! Nice job team.
Question #1:
Written by erstad17 on May 1, 2009
As a Nikon shooter myself, I'm proud to see the Nikon name at Everest. Is there a specific reason why you wouldn't go full frame? Do you carry a backup to the D300?
Answered by Jake Norton on May 11, 2009
Hi erstad17...good to hear from another Nikon shooter! As for the full frame issue, I'm not personally against full frame, but have not gone that direction for a couple of reasons. First, I personally do not see a huge benefit to full frame, it being a somewhat arbitrary size anyway; I find the DX format to take a little getting used to at first, but now quite familiar and good. But, more importantly, I use the D300 (and used the D200 previously, and the D100 before that) primarily because of size and weight. Both, of course, are major issues when shooting on Everest. The "prosumer" Nikon (digital) line has always treated me quite well, with exceptional performance in the extreme cold, with a great balance of weight and quality. I do have backup cameras with me - a D300, D200, and D100 in case I'm really in trouble - but do not carry them with me all the time. Again, finding the balance with weight, space, etc. Thanks for your questions, and keep shooting!
Question #2:
Written by Grizmtn on April 28, 2009
Thanks for all the great footage and comments. Allows folks like me in faraway Montana to get a glimpse at a fascinating other world through the eyes of experts. Question for Dave Hahn: Since you were involved in the search for evidence of the Mallory & Irvine expedition, and the finding of Mallory's body, do you think the north route has been scoured enough (hopefully not by treasure hunters) to have discovered Irvine and the sought after camera if they were there, or is the area complex and difficult enough that Irvine's remains may be hiding in some nook of the yellowband?
Answered by Dave Hahn on May 11, 2009
Hi Grizmtn. There probably is still more to be found high on the north side regarding the Mallory and Irvine mystery. Just as you say, the area is complex and difficult enough to keep plenty hidden, including Andrew Irvine's remains and whichever camera(s) he and George Mallory had with them on June 8, 1924. I trust you use the term "treasure hunters" as I do, with tongue-in-cheek when it comes to those exploring Everest's North Face. A dumber way to get rich has yet to be conceived. I still feel that Irvine's remains may be hidden on a ledge within the Yellow Band but I doubt I'll risk my life again to confirm that. That said, it is hard for me to imagine a better season for searching than this dry one. Jake Norton and I covered some good ground (rock) in our 2004 Yellow Band search, but due to snowdrifts, we can't categorically say that those same ledges didn't still hold clues to the mystery. Best Regards, DH
Question #3:
Written by GB on April 25, 2009
It's exciting following the climb through the dispatches and photos. Does the beauty of the mountains ever stop you in your tracks and make you want to look around in awe at your surroundings? How do you respond when climbing with a client or climbing partner? Safe climbing!
Answered by Seth Waterfall on May 11, 2009
Hello GB. Thanks for following our expedition. I can safely speak for the team when I say...heck yeah, the beauty of the mountains stops us in our tracks! Fortunately, this style of mountaineering allows for plenty of time to soak up the surroundings. But in fact it is very necessary to be aware of what's going on around you at all times when you're in the mountains, especially while guiding. I regularly encourage my clients to avoid just looking down and following my boot prints. One needs to be aware of everything going on around you and a good team member is always looking out for everyone.
Question #4:
Written by T-Dawg on April 25, 2009
Quick question: do the Sherpas get acclimatized well before the expedition teams arrive? Also, after watching the video about waste collection, and yeah, this is a little gross, when at ABC or when you all reach HC, what happens when "nature calls"? Do the Sherpas bring up latrine tents or do you bust out the shovel? I'm sure some inquiring minds are wondering.
Answered by Seth Waterfall on May 11, 2009
T-Dawg, the Sherpas on our team arrived about one to two weeks before us. That plus the fact that they, for the most part, live at a much higher altitude than us 'westerners,' gives them a head start on acclimatizing. That said, they are definitely predisposed to be more adaptable to altitude, but the mechanism there is poorly understood. There's no doubt, however, that these guys are tough as nails. Now to your question about 'number two.' In my experience, every popular mountain has its own rules regarding waste disposal. Here it is no different. The rules just change depending on where you are on the mountain. At base camp, the waste is removed and dealt with down the valley. Higher up on the mountain this is not practical, and the waste is deposited in a crevasse in the glacier.
Question #5:
Written by DrewEvansPhoto
What do you all do during downtime like this, besides heal and rest?
Answered by Seth Waterfall on May 11, 2009
Hi DEP. We all do different things to relieve the boredom of rest days. With the advent of video iPods, the game is totally different and movie watching is an indescribable pleasure. Of course, reading is great and we've got a little book exchange and tons of magazines. We also eat, play cards, fly our one kite, play Frisbee, and make fun of each other mercilessly. That's all in addition to helping maintain the camp and taking care of ourselves. It's just tons of fun at base camp.
The sun hit our tents just after 7 AM and we got out fast for our carry to high camp. There was a distinct change in the weather as we saw a wind sculpted cloud cap hovering above the mountain's summit for much of the day. We were walking by 8:30 AM in any case, fully prepared for big winds to begin... but they never really did. It was novel to have the trail to ourselves as most other groups seemed to be on a slightly later schedule. As usual, our production teams were leapfrogging and ambushing all the way, but we made fine time anyway. The goal was to carry gear and food to our intended high camp, but also to get in a day of exercise at altitude... mission accomplished. Along the way, we enjoyed views of a few other Andean giants and some new valleys below. The sky grew progressively more cloudy, but we retained our great views of Aconcagua's formidable summit pyramid. We'd reached 19,200 ft by mid-day and all seemed reasonably comfortable with the altitude. It didn't take long to cache the gear and head back down the crushed lava and pumice trail to low camp where we relaxed through an easy afternoon in the tents. Resting up for our big move tomorrow... weather permitting.
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CONGRATULATIONS
MT. BAKER TEAM !!
Very proud of you Peter Gaeta !!
Posted by: Doreen Kaplan on 8/6/2019 at 1:39 pm
Congratulations, I am in awe of your bravery and hard work!
Posted by: Judy Costigan on 8/6/2019 at 1:08 pm
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