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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Rest at 14,000’ Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

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May 21, 2014 - 10:15 pm We rested today at the 14,000' Camp, with plans in place to move up to high camp tomorrow and go for the top on Friday. We'll see how that shakes out, as the latest weather forecast is calling for extreme winds up high for the next few days. This is a drastic change in the forecast from yesterday, which called for 10-15 mph summit winds for the next few days. If any body out there can pull any strings with the weather gods, now would be a good time. We'll continue to keep you up to date with our progress. Cheers, RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Appreciate Nice Weather for Gear Retrieval

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

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Monday, June 17, 2024 - 10:25 pm PT

We are starting to feel quite lucky after another calm, beautiful day. We got up at a leisurely 6:30 AM and had a breakfast of bagels and bacon. By 9 AM we were walking downhill to 10,000 ft to pick up our cached supplies.  Down took 20 min, up then took about 90 min, including a nice rest break. It was just starting to get good and hot when we got back and dove into our tents for shelter from the sun. We didn't come out again until 5:30 PM when we suited up for a short review of the climbing techniques we plan to employ tomorrow. The goal would be to carry a load up and around "Windy Corner" using crampons and ice axes (rather than the snowshoes and ski poles we've been using). The team is excited to see some new terrain.

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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So excited for you Tony that the weather seems to be really remarkable so far.  Hope you are enjoying all your hard work to get there!  Karl and Diane are thinking of you and wishing you (and the others) well!

Karl

Posted by: Karl Ring on 6/19/2024 at 9:18 am

All the best, team!  Wallis, you got this!!

Posted by: Subbu Aiyer on 6/19/2024 at 9:12 am

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Mt. Rainier: Teams Turned Around by High Winds

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Elevation: 13,700'

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The Four Day Summit Climb September 8 - 11, 2016 were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning due to windy conditions. RMI Guides Billy Nugent and Katrina Bloemsma made the decision to turn their teams around at 13,700' as the extremely high winds made it unsafe for the groups to continue. They began their descent from their high point at 7:30 am en route to Camp Muir. After they rest and repack they will continue to Paradise and be transferred to Rainier Base Camp.
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Many thanks to our guides!  Although we didn’t make the summit, it will be an adventure that we will always treasure.

Dave & Lori

Posted by: David Haggist on 9/13/2016 at 11:08 am

Great job guys! Sorry the weather didn’t cooperate, but what an experience! Very proud of you!!

Posted by: Ron and Debbie Hochstein on 9/11/2016 at 5:38 pm

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North Cascades: Ben Liken Leads His Team to the Top of Sahale Peak

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

Elevation: 8,680'

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Over the past four days the Sahale summit team enjoyed perfect weather and excellent climbing in the North Cascades National Park. As we ascended out of the forest on day one the views kept getting better and better until we stopped to set up our base camp at 5,300 feet. Looking up at the spectacular Boston Basin the team was excited to go up high over the next few days. Day 2 was a training day at the toe of the Quien Sabe Glacier; filled with efficiency techniques, crevasse safety, and rock climbing. After a full day of training we went to bed early to rest up for a summit attempt on the classic peak. Summit day went flawlessly and we found ourselves on top at 10:30 am after some really fun glacier and rock climbing sections. Here are a few shots from the trip. Enjoy! RMI Guide Ben Liken
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Ben - fix the links under the photos! I click on them and they take me to a Mt. Denali expedition.

Posted by: Malcolm Butler on 8/17/2016 at 9:23 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Brent Okita and Team Fly to Base Camp… Or Not

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

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Update: 5:00 pm PST - Brent and his team got to within 5 minutes of Basecamp on the second flight before having to turn around and fly back to Talkeetna. The weather was just not cooperating. As of 5:00 pm, the weather is improving and they are going to try it for the third time. Hopefully they will be in Basecamp in a few hours. We’ll keep you posted. Update: 1 pm PST Brent called, the team got about 20 minutes from the airstrip when a ground fog rolled in that prevented their landing at Basecamp. The plane is all packed with their gear ready to go, so right now they are back at the K2 Aviation Hanger having a great time celebrating Maile Wade’s birthday…Happy Birthday Maile!
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Frank and Brent how about an update for old Hank living vicarously in Kabul. Hammer Gents!!

Posted by: Hank on 5/30/2011 at 11:25 am

Tell Frank Saunders (USA) that he’s the man!

Posted by: Carole Sullivan on 5/20/2011 at 8:00 pm

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RMI Team arrives at Camp 2 on Aconcagua

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 18,000 ft.

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A little wind today was no match for our crew as we made short work of our move up to Camp 2 @ 18,000'. Tomorrow will bring our last rest day before we make a concerted push for the summit. Thursday will see us move up to Camp 3, a.k.a. Camp Cholera at just under 20,000' - such a cheerful name. If the weather cooperates we will be making our summit attempt on Friday morning. We'll continue to keep you posted on our progress. Much love to everyone back home!
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McKinley: Day One - Packing in Talkeetna

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

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Today was packing day. We met for breakfast at the ‘Roadhouse’ in downtown Talkeetna at 8:00 am. If there’s one thing to remember about eating at the Roadhouse it’s to order the half size portions. The full size breakfasts are unbelievably huge. After breakfast we met up at Hudson Air. This is where the RMI storage unit is located. Hudson Air has been in the glacier flying business for 54 years and Jay Hudson, the owner, is very accommodating to our groups. He pretty much lets us have our run of the place. We spend the morning going through all of our personal gear. One of the things that makes Denali tough is carrying all of the gear and food you’ll need for the whole three weeks, so it pays to go through each and every item to make sure that you don’t have too much, but also that you don’t forget anything. After a break for lunch we meet at the NPS Ranger station in Talkeetna for our orientation meeting. This is a ritual that every Denali climber must go through. The Rangers meet with us and show a slideshow of the West Buttress route. This is also where we receive our Clean Mountain Cans and bio-degradable bags for disposing of human waste. After finishing up at the hangar in the afternoon we all adjourned to Talkeetna for our last night in town for 18 to 22 days!

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Denali Expedition: Cifelli & Team Move Up to 14,000ft Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

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Wednesday, June 19, 2024 - 1-:20 pm PT

Beat Generation writer Jack Kerouac insisted: “Because in the end, you won’t remember the time you spent in the office or mowing your lawn. CLIMB THAT GODDAMN MOUNTAIN.”

Today was a big day for the team - 3200’ vertical over 3 miles. We moved from 11,000' Camp to 14,000' Camp and set up what will be our home for the next 4-5 days. Retracing our steps from 11,000' up the relentlessly steep Motorcycle Hill, up Squirrel Hill, onto Polo Field, up to Windy Corner, across crevasses and past the cache we left a few days ago, we finally crested the last slope and 14K camp came into view. Hiking through these massive cathedrals of rock and snow inspires awe. Traversing through these quixotically named places that mountaineering legends have written about enhances that awe so that it almost seems unreal.

Upon reaching camp, the task of sculpting our home out of snow was upon us. After a couple of hours, our tents were secure on the snow platforms we had built, while our tireless guides (and a couple of our tireless team members) crafted the kitchen and bathroom out of the bottomless glacier.

Most of us have been feeling the physical effects of altitude at 14,000' Camp, some more than others. Today, as in all other days, we rallied remarkably well as a team, pitching in and assisting to the best of our abilities to help one another and do what is needed for the team to succeed. It is a beautiful reflection of what humanity can be when a group of strangers with different backgrounds and in different stages of their lives can come together for a common cause and help one another to achieve a singular goal. While each of us has our own personal motivations for embarking on this great adventure, no doubt Jack Kerouac’s entreaty has something to do with why we are all here.

So let’s go team: let’s climb that goddamn mountain.

RMI climber Chris Brockmeyer

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Amazing to read all these entries and realize how far up and out into the expanse you are right now. I hope the next few days are the best yet. Can’t wait to hear back soon!

Posted by: Will on 6/23/2024 at 5:38 pm

What an amazing adventure for you all! The teamwork and dedication is inspiring! Can’t wait to hear more about this adventure when you get back, Chris! We have a martini glass chilling in the freezer…❤️

Posted by: Kathy M-H on 6/22/2024 at 1:18 pm

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Kilimanjaro: Hahn & Team Explore Lake Manyara National Park

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro

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Beds are a wonderful invention. That seemed to be the consensus view shared over breakfast at the Arumeru River Lodge this morning. Leaving for Safari was certainly easier and more casual than leaving to climb Kilimanjaro was. We drove west through Arusha starting just after 8 AM and after all the traffic and stoplights it was a relief to break into the open countryside beyond the city. Our two Landcruiser drivers are also our two naturalists and guides. Godson and Fabian began educating us on Tanzania in general, on the Maasai Tribe (since we are passing through much Maasai territory) on trees and animals and geography. It took the morning to reach Lake Manyara, our National Park for the day. We popped the tops on the cars and stood hanging over the edges with cameras and binoculars in hopes of seeing exotic critters. We weren’t disappointed. There were Cape Buffalo and a few shy elephants. There were giraffes and wildebeest and zebra. Storks, pelicans, flamingos, vultures and ibis. We saw monkeys and baboons. Folks liked the hippos out rolling in lily-covered wallows, yawning and grunting and flipping their tails. After a great picnic lunch, we drove a few more rough dirt road laps through forest and the lake shore and then in late afternoon drove out of the park and up the escarpment of the Great Rift Valley to our hotel -the Plantation Lodge. The contrast with our dusty camps of the past week could not be greater. Plantation is a beautiful garden surrounding with tastefully constructed and furnished rooms. The dining room and bar are comfortable enough, with such friendly service, that a few of our team are now considering simply living here indefinitely. They can do that after tomorrow though, because we’re going out exploring again... Ngorongoro Crater is calling us. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Denali Expedition: Gorum and Team Back Carry & Rest

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

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Friday, May 31, 2019 12:14 AM PT Today we went back downhill to gather all of our cached food and gear. We got it all without any noteworthy event. With the rest of the day, we sat around, ate our new snacks, and practiced some techniques for the fixed lines. We’re hoping to carry to the top of the fixed lines tomorrow if weather allows. The forecast is calling for some snow, but light winds. As long as winds stay calm we can probably get it done. We’ll see what we get and check in tomorrow. RMI Guide JM Gorum & Team
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You go, Dad! Hope the knot tying is going swimmingly. Love you!!

Posted by: Jillian Ludwig on 5/31/2019 at 3:11 pm

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