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Mexico’s Volcanoes: Hoch & Team Reach Summit of La Malinche

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico

Elevation: 14,500'

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We woke at our quiet mountain cabins on the side of Volcan La Malinche to a cloudy sky, but minus the rain we had experienced most of the trip. 

After a quick breakfast we started up the trail, rain shells at the ready. Our forecast was for rain showers, courtesy of Hurricane Milton only 200 miles away. And as we neared 13,000 feet the rain started. But Etienne and Norbert weren’t too concerned with a little rain, and we pressed uphill, staying mostly dry in our Gore-Tex. 

We summited in a light mist, with sun poking through. 2 climbers, 1 guide and 3 dogs(2 from our cabins, one from part way up the mountain, so not sure if she gets a summit). 

We made it quick on top, and as we started downhill, Milton made its presence known, and we were soon in the heaviest rain I’ve seen outside of a tropical rainforest. But we kept our cool, and with tired legs and absolutely soaked through, we made it happily back to our cabins in the forest. 

With a good night’s sleep and now dried out clothing and gear, we’re off to our next challenge, Volcan Ixta, with an improving weather forecast!

RMI Guide Joe Hoch

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Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Return to Talkeetna After 19 Days on the Mountain

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

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Sunday, June 23, 2024 - 10:14 am PT

Hello loyal readers,

This is our final dispatch. Yesterday we woke at midnight at the base of Ski Hill. A light breeze rattled our tents but the skies were clear. It was our fastest break down of tents and packing all trip. Motivation ran high with the thought of flying off the glacier. A slight refreeze of the glacier made for smooth walking pulling our heavy sleds. Everything was quite and still. A final push up hill weaving around crevasses brought us to a sleepy basecamp...it was 4am. Check-in for our flight wasn't till 7am, so we pulled out our sleeping pads and bags and took a nap. The lower airstrip was a bit too bumpy so we walked to the upper airstrip and by 9:20 am the planes landed and we were swept off the mountain we spent 19 days climbing up and down. A 40 minute flight dumped us off in civilization. Just like that we no longer needed to travel with all our belongings on our back. No longer did we need to poop in a bucket. No longer did we need to melt snow for water. We had all those amenities at our finger tips. It's been a fantastic journey. Everyone learned something new about themselves and learned that they can endure so much. It's been a privilege to be apart of this team. 

Thank you for following along and for all the support,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team

PC: Hannah Smith

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Appreciate Nice Weather for Gear Retrieval

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

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Monday, June 17, 2024 - 10:25 pm PT

We are starting to feel quite lucky after another calm, beautiful day. We got up at a leisurely 6:30 AM and had a breakfast of bagels and bacon. By 9 AM we were walking downhill to 10,000 ft to pick up our cached supplies.  Down took 20 min, up then took about 90 min, including a nice rest break. It was just starting to get good and hot when we got back and dove into our tents for shelter from the sun. We didn't come out again until 5:30 PM when we suited up for a short review of the climbing techniques we plan to employ tomorrow. The goal would be to carry a load up and around "Windy Corner" using crampons and ice axes (rather than the snowshoes and ski poles we've been using). The team is excited to see some new terrain.

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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So excited for you Tony that the weather seems to be really remarkable so far.  Hope you are enjoying all your hard work to get there!  Karl and Diane are thinking of you and wishing you (and the others) well!

Karl

Posted by: Karl Ring on 6/19/2024 at 9:18 am

All the best, team!  Wallis, you got this!!

Posted by: Subbu Aiyer on 6/19/2024 at 9:12 am

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North Cascades: Walter & Team Training on Mount Shuksan

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

Elevation: 6,000'

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We had a great day of training today. We practiced ice axe arrest, cramponing, glacier travel, rock scrambling, steeper snow climbing techniques and efficiency skills. The weather was beautiful and we enjoyed a great day in a spectacular location in the North Cascades. RMI Guide Mike Walter
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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Reached Ingraham Flats

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 11,200'

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The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Bryan Mazaika reached 11,200' on Mt. Rainier today. New snow from the last few days and high avalanche danger kept the team from going any higher on the mountain. The team is back at Camp Muir and will start the descent to Paradise shortly. Congratulations to today's team!
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Congrats, Hoger (and Team)! Pretty awesome!!

Posted by: K-Man on 5/19/2019 at 9:26 am

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Move to 14K Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

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Wulp, your intrepid team has made it smoothly and safely into Camp 4 at over 14K! Forecasts were calling for an end to our decent weather on Thursday or Friday so we decided to push up and forego a rest day at 11. The climbers have been motivated and moving strongly throughout the trip, which made the decision to move up a relatively easy one. We were greeted by RMI Guide Pepper Dee with a great looking posh and nice camp to move into. Pepper also had plenty of cold water for us which really hit the spot after our first really hot day on the move. Not much else to report other than pretty marginal weather forecasts and a happy team sitting pretty at 14. RMI Guide Billy Nugent

On The Map

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Go for it Art and Charlie! Hope the weather holds.

Posted by: Bill Fruamann on 6/26/2015 at 7:40 am

Great to hear the weather has cooperated so far Marco!  Hopefully it will stay like that.  Sounds like the whole team is doing great.  Bravo!

Posted by: Mti & Dodi on 6/26/2015 at 12:34 am

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams on the Summit!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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Our Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Mike King reached the summit this morning around 7 am. The teams enjoyed clear skies and warm temperatures with some windy conditions. Both teams will descend to Camp Muir and then continue down to Paradise later this afternoon. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb Teams.
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What an amazing experience.  Brent, Lance, & JM did an incredible job getting us to the summit and I had a great time meeting our team. Definitely a trip to remember. Kudos to the RMI staff for a job well done.

Posted by: daniel on 6/11/2015 at 12:21 pm

Zach and Molly…....way to go!  Summit day 4….we are so proud of you!!!!  YAY Marquette flag on top! XOXO

Posted by: Christiane & Jim on 6/10/2015 at 4:04 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Rest at 14,000’ Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

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May 21, 2014 - 10:15 pm We rested today at the 14,000' Camp, with plans in place to move up to high camp tomorrow and go for the top on Friday. We'll see how that shakes out, as the latest weather forecast is calling for extreme winds up high for the next few days. This is a drastic change in the forecast from yesterday, which called for 10-15 mph summit winds for the next few days. If any body out there can pull any strings with the weather gods, now would be a good time. We'll continue to keep you up to date with our progress. Cheers, RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

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Denali Expedition: Hailes & Team Move to High Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,000'

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Thursday, June 7, 2018 - 11:27 PM PT Well, we left our cozy home at 14,000 ft on Denali this morning. When we woke, we had clear views of the route, and could see that winds were calm. As we packed up and started moving, visibility decreased and snow started to fall. We slowly poked our noses a little further, halfway expecting the weather to turn us around, but it never did. It snowed most of the day, but it was relatively warm, and winds were very light. It was almost perfect, we just missed out on the views. Regardless, we have settled in to our new neighborhood, and are enjoying the warm 10 PM sun. We just finished dinner, and are tucking into our sleeping bags to stay nice and toasty. If the weather allows, we'll go for the summit tomorrow morning. Wish us luck! RMI Guide Walter Hailes

On The Map

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Go get em!  Enjoy the views from the summit ridge on top of North America. Check out Mt Huntington and then read “Mountain of my fear” in the plane ride home.

Posted by: Tom Romary on 6/9/2018 at 7:37 am

Tyler and team, we hope you reached all of your goals today.  We are looking forward to having you home soon to share all of your stories and pictures!  Love and miss you!  Praying for all of you, mom and dad

Posted by: donna shearburn on 6/9/2018 at 6:23 am

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North Cascades: From North Carolina to the North Ridge and North Face

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

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Pawel had previously been a part of the Emmons and Kautz Seminars on Mt. Rainier. Finishing up the ice challenges of the Kautz, Pawel set his eyes on the prize, investigated ambitious alpine objectives and developed a plan. That plan included the North Ridge of Mt. Baker and the North Face of Mt. Shuksan. Last winter he trained for six days in Ouray, CO honing his ice skills to get ready for the task. And, as alpine climbing demands creativity, since then he's trained hard in gym and combined it with a rigorous running schedule, sometimes with a pack, at home in Chapel Hill, NC. We met up for the planned 3-day climb of the North Ridge of Mt. Baker on a Monday in the face of a grim forecast—rain coming in Tuesday morning. The plan was to establish base camp on Monday and launch Tuesday morning. So, not good. But you can't win if you don't play and a large part of success in alpine climbing is putting yourself in position for it and then letting the cards unfold as they do. We set off toward base camp, hiking along the Heliotrope Ridge Trail, popping with alpine flowers. On the hike in it was clear Pawel's creative North Carolina training had paid off. He crushed it in two hours and—just as the thought entered my own mind—he suggested, “What do you think about going for it today?” Even with the crushing time to base camp, it was still 1p.m.—a rather untraditional start to the North Ridge. While we set up camp, I considered the timeline: We'd be pushing the weather forecast, but we felt comfortable descending the Coleman-Deming route (the standard descent) in poorer weather. Once on the ice pitches of the route (approx. 9,600') you're pretty committed to the North Ridge, but we left camp with the caveat that should the weather change or the travel become more complex than planned, we'd turn back for another try later. Later never came. We made it to the ice cap in just over 3 hours, which is just over half the typical time. With a puffy cloud front still way off over the Puget Sound and a few small cells sweeping up over Colfax Peak, we committed. All the moments of consideration up to the moment of commitment in a climb like this is a struggle on par with Ali-Frasier—but once the decision is made, clarity begins—just climb. And climb we did. Up through the ice cap, onto the upper flanks of the mountain, navigating through the upper bergschrunds, to the top. Descending the Coleman-Deming route to camp we were treated with blazing red sunset reflections on Puget Sound, rolling into camp just eight short hours after leaving camp. We reconvened a day later for the North Face of Shuksan, a seldom climbed route. Seldom done for many reasons, among them being the formidable approach. After 5 hours of Amazonian bushwhacking and at least a Red Cross pint donation of blood from both Pawel and I, we arrived at the base of the actual climb. Not surprisingly, after that “warm up” the climb was like cake. Pawel's commitment to fitness and technical prep paid off and we stacked pitch after pitch after pitch of climbing until arriving at our lovely bivy atop the ridge. The next day was an open road with a full tank of gas. We connected smoothly from the Crystal Glacier to the Sulphide Glacier, crisply circumambulated the mountain, ascended the SE Ridge, and then moved out smartly toward Winnie's Slide to camp. Arriving at camp at slighly past the stroke of noon, it occurred to the both of us that a trip out to the trailhead was easily doable, and since Pawel had some good friends in Seattle he wished to visit, we decided to go for it. Four short hours later, we were at the trailhead. Packs were off, sandals on, sitting down. Life was good. And getting better. We met up for a culmination of the climb at the Chair 9 Bar and Grill. It was a pure pleasure to wrap up this stage of Pawel's alpine journey. In the face of a formidable forecast, we'd pulled off two major North Cascades objectives—a tribute to the power of positive preparation in the face of pure challenge. Well done Pawel! RMI Guide Kel Rossiter
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