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Sunday, July 8, 2018 - 3:32 AM PT The team woke... slowly, at 11,000 this morning. Everybody remarked on the value of low altitude slumber. We ate and determined to get lower in honor of the former “tropical storm” headed our way. By this morning, we were the only team left on Denali. While it wouldn’t be quite “normal” to take on the lower Kahiltna Glacier in July during the afternoon, we decided that a try was in order. The inbound storm was a definite- and it was clear it would be snowing hard for days on end... incompatible with both climbing and flying. So we pulled down Camp at 11,000' by 11:45 AM and got moving with heavy packs and sleds. Conditions were just plain easy to the base of Ski Hill at 7,800'. And then -although we crossed a few spooky snow bridges, things were phenomenally well put together for July 7. We made fine progress to the base of Heartbreak Hill. And although our last 1.5 hours was uphill, it was free of dicey bridges and nervy crevasses. Base Camp was gone at this late date... we passed on to the traditional late season upper strip 20 minutes farther along, reaching it at 7:30 PM. K2 Aviation already had planes in the air for us as they were anxious to beat the storm for our extraction. As we crossed the range, we saw the weather moving in while our ski otters dodged cloud after cloud. We landed in Talkeetna at 9:15 PM and raced to dinner in our mountain clothing, trying to beat closing times in the conventional world. In town, we caught up with all of the neighboring teams from the past three weeks and shared escape stories. We’re all full of amazement and admiration for the mountain that we didn’t climb, but also great satisfaction for the climb that we did have together. Thanks for keeping track of us... until the next climb. RMI Guide Dave Hahn

The Four Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guides Steve Gately and Bryan Mazaika were standing on Columbia Crest, the very top of Mt. Rainier at 7:30 am this morning. The team climbed above the clouds and have clear beautiful skies. They have started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's Teams!

The Four Day Summit Climb August 10 - 13 was unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier today. Poor weather delayed the team from leaving Camp Muir this morning. Unable to make their alpine start, the team did opt to ascend to Ingraham Flats which will be their high point today. RMI Guide Robby Young reported that the weather had improved and they were above the clouds as the reached 12,000'. The team will return to Camp Muir and descend to Paradise today.

May 29, 2016 - 11:50 p.m. PDT Awakening to wind buffeting the tents and spindrift everywhere kept us hunkered down in our bags later than usual this morning. When we finally ventured out at least the sun was out in all it's glory, which sure made up for the gusts and blowing snow. A quick breakfast of Pop Tarts and we all rallied from the tents to cut blocks for the wall around our Posh tent that we just didn't have time to build yesterday. Kind of reminiscent of our morning a few days ago at 11,200'. The team rocked the work we had to do to allow us to get our cool tent fully functioning, A second breakfast of grits and hot drinks fortified us to do our short back carry to pick up our cache at 13,500'. And now we're set. We have a carry up to 16,200' or higher planned for tomorrow, but if the weather doesn't let us we'll certainly enjoy a rest day. The weather forecasts look good for later this week. We'll keep our fingers crossed. Ciao from 14,200'. RMI Guides Brent Okita,Christina Dale, Chris Ebeling and an incredible team of climbers

On The Map

Weather is such a fickle beast when it comes to mountain climbing. As climbers we train, plan, prepare, have the right equipment, and know how to use it, but at the end of the day we can only control so much.

Today we hoped to climb Cayambe. When we woke up to begin our climb in the middle of the night we were greeted with rain, snow, and wind. We waited in the warm Refugio to see if conditions would improve. Precipitation continued to fall with periods of relative clearing and torrents of angry wind and snow. We eventually decided to give it our best shot and go out and climb as high as we safely could. After a few hours of climbing through the storm, breaking trail, and getting all of our jackets soaked to the core, the team decided it was not safe to continue.

We made it back to the hut, hung some gear up to dry and crawled back into bed for naps before breakfast and our departure from the Refugio. After stopping for lunch outside of Quito with our Ecuadorian guides we continued to Cotopaxi where we arrived at our hacienda. We continue to dry out our gear while we enjoy warm showers, hot dinner, comfy beds, a full nights sleep, and some much needed rest.

Despite some nasty weather and a disappointing outcome our team all had smiles on their faces when we finished the climb and a great respect and appreciation for this incredible place we have the privilege to visit!

RMI Guides Casey Grom & Jackson Breen

Tuesday, June 3, 2025 9:21pm PDT

Hello world! Checking in from camp.

1. Patience is the name of the game up here. We’re soaking in the surroundings — even if it’s continuous snowfall and low visibility. White on white on white. Quiet and peaceful, contrasting with the surreal weather that accompanies this part of the world.

2. We woke up today and had to dig ourselves out of our tents. We wandered into the kitchen tent to get caffeinated and enjoy some delicious blueberry pancakes. Since the weather has taken a bit of a turn, we got the news that we’d need to hunker down here for the second day in a row.

3. Today was different from yesterday in the sense that the wind and snowfall picked up — around half an inch per hour. So, our time outside was limited.

4. We spent some time clearing snow from the gear bags and around the tents, making sure it wasn’t creeping into places it shouldn’t be. A couple of us even began building what essentially became the Great Wall of Snow to protect our tents from the elements.

5. To pass the time, we snacked, practiced tying knots, and, more than anything, had conversations with the team — getting to know each other better, telling stories, and understanding where everyone comes from.

6. Although we all have the same goal, we come from different backgrounds. That’s the beauty of mountaineering — it brings together different souls from different walks of life.

7. Tomorrow, we’re planning to carry some gear and supplies up to around 9,600 feet, then return to sleep at our current camp. Hopefully, the following day, we’ll continue moving upward.

8. Spirits are high, we’re all hopeful, and we’re looking forward to having this beautiful mountain grace us with more of her presence.

- Connor Michalek 

RMI Guide Ben Luedtke and Team checked in today at 6:49 am PST letting us know that the entire team was standing on the summit of Orizaba.  When they get settled this evening they will have a great summit day story to tell!

Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 5:01 PM PT Today is a rest day for our team after good long day yesterday establishing a cache at 17,200 ft. We woke early yesterday to a clear but bitterly cold morning (~ -20F), ate breakfast, packed our packs and launched. We were the first team to leave camp and the only team to continue all the way to High Camp (17,200') to establish our cache. The weather and climbing conditions were excellent, and the views were unmatched. Now we're resting, acclimating, and getting stronger in preparation for our summit bid. The weather forecast looks promising and we will likely move to High Camp in the next day or two. We will keep you posted with the latest. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

I glanced down at my watch, 11:44 PM. One minute before my alarm was to go off. I silenced it and slipped out of my bunk and flipped the light switch. It was time for our Cotopaxi (19,347') summit day. The team quickly got out of their sleeping bags, one of the most challenging tasks of the day, and began efficiently putting together their summit kits. After topping off water bottles and wolfing down some oatmeal and cinnamon buns we moved outside to gear-up and were greeted with light snow fall. The winds were calm and the cloud cover made for pleasant climbing temps so we set off in high spirits hoping the snow would pass for a clear sunrise on the summit. One hour in and we stopped for our first break just shy of 17,000' at the toe of the glacier to rope-up. The team arrived together in good style showcasing their increased acclimatization from Cayambe and immediately putting to use the skills learned in the previous day's training. The current route is very direct but that also means gaining a lot of elevation very quickly. The next section had almost no switchbacks and was characterized by a series of steep 40+ degree pitches with very brief benches in between. The team methodically tackled these pitches where flawless technique was required not to slip-out in the steep loose snow draining valuable and limited stores of energy. The team arrived at the final break before the summit looking tired but determined. Cotopaxi would not give up the goods too easily. The last stretch to the summit was guarded by some of the steepest sections of the climb. After forcing down some calories the snow stopped and the stars popped out shedding faint light on the summit 1,000' above us. Restored by the calories and motivated by the opportunity for a clear summit the team set out on the final push. An hour and a half later the entire team crested the crater rim and was greeted with an alpine sunrise for the record books. A massive steam plume from the crater was bathed in pink alpenglow and the mountain shadow of Cotopaxi stretched into the western horizon. All smiles, the team embraced and congratulated each other. This summit was accomplished as much through individual grit as was through an extraordinary display of exemplary expedition behavior. When the going got tough the team propped-up and encouraged each other, just as determined to get their rope team member to the the top as themselves. After basking in the equatorial morning glory for about 45 minutes the team descended back to the hut with no wind and clear sunny skies. After one final meal at the Refugio we boarded the bus and went to have lunch and celebrate at a local pizzeria. We just arrived at the gorgeous Hacienda La Cienega and are settling in for some well deserved afternoon naps. Tomorrow will take us to the base of Chimborazo and the start of the tallest objective of the trip. Stay Tuned! RMI Guide Jordan Cargill

We spent most of the evening listening to thunder clouds and the battering of hail pound our shelter. That was until I woke the team up at 10:45pm. We woke to surprisingly calm skies with even a few stars shining. The team quickly got out of bed to prepare their things for our ascent. While eating breakfast the clouds snuck back in behind our backs and filled the mountain's surroundings with a heavy mist that saturated everything that touched it. We decided to brave the mist and put on our rain shells to climb for an hour and "see how things went". The team climbed right along, ignoring the inclement weather. At the end of that hour things weren't looking much better, in fact you might have said they were worse. Taking good advantage of being able to retreat back to a warm hut if need be, we opted to continue and "see how things went" again. A few inches of wet snow had fallen over night and actually made the walking quite nice. Soon thereafter the mist lifted and we actually began to get warm and dry out! The team's spirits lifted and we kept ascending. At about 18,000ft we finally met our maker- a large glacial bowl filled with recently deposited snow from high winds. The avalanche hazard was real and quite sensitive. We opted to turn around and descend back towards the hut. During our descent we were met with an Ecuadorian sunrise above a sea of clouds and neighboring volcanoes, Antisana and Cotopaxi, in the distance. At the time there certainly wasn't much to be upset about. A quick descent gave way to another exciting 4x4 drive down to Otavalo where we would head south towards Chilcabamba on the northern flank of Cotopaxi. Tomorrow we rest and prepare for our next objective! RMI Guide Steve Gately