Entries from Mt. McKinley
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
Thursday, May 26, 2022 10:14 pm PT
Our first full day at Camp was a beautiful one! We slept in and then did a back carry to get all of our gear up to our camp here at 14,200'. Then we enjoyed relaxing and enjoying the sun for the rest of the day.
Tomorrow is going to be a much deserved rest day!
Thanks for following.
RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI Team
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Erika Birkeland, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,200'
Thursday, May 26, 2022 9:53 pm PST
As we suspected, it was blowing snow off the ridges above us this morning. There isn't much snow available to move, so when you see snow plumes you know the wind is ripping. It sounds like the pattern will change tomorrow so we weren't too bothered. We put some energy into organizing for our move to 17,000', took naps, and didn't mind staring up at the snow plumes above with like minded guides and climbers. Pretty standard activities whe you are at 14,000' Camp.
We'll wake up and hope Denali welcomes us higher tomorrow.
RMI Guides Pete, Erika, Leif, and Team
Posted by: Mike Walter, Henry Coppolillo, Abby Westling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
Winds and a windy forecast continue to keep us posted up at 14K. Today is a bit breezier, cloudier, and cooler at camp. We're still looking at a potentially improving weather pattern for this weekend, hopeful that wind speeds with subside and we'll be able to move up to high camp. We're about as acclimated to the altitude as were going to get on this expedition. Now it's a matter of good fortune if we get decent weather for a shot at the top. That's always a big "if" when climbing high peaks.
There's not much new to report from Genet Basin. The tents continue to stack up here, joining us in waiting for a climbing window. There are plenty of teams anxious for the opportunity to move higher. We'll keep you posted with any changes, but for now we're still in a holding pattern.
RMI Guides Mike, Henry, Abby and Team
Feeling SO proud of you, little brother. I was thinking that pushing your body to its limits in the mountains might be the easiest part of all this; it’s all the other ways that this trip is pushing you that I’m particularly awed by. You’re amazing. Thinking of you every day and rooting for that wind to settle down so you can go up and get ‘er done!!
Posted by: Rosie Read on 5/27/2022 at 12:48 pm
Hang in there guys. We’re thinking of you and hoping for better weather. The weekend starts tomorrow ,, we anxiously await your next report.
Be safe
Jan Beaudway
Posted by: Jan Beaudway on 5/26/2022 at 4:38 pm
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Thursday, May 26, 2022 - 1:09 am PT
Today started with a classic case of the Denali waiting game due to another snowy morning at 11,000' Camp. After breakfast we waited (mostly packed) in our tents to see what the weather was going to do.
As we waited in nervous anticipation, the only sounds you could hear was the flit, flit, flit of snow falling against the tent, the occasional clang of a pot from somewhere in camp, and the ziiiiiip of a tent opening just enough for a restless head to peek out and look up the mountain.
At around 930 the clouds broke enough for us to see that the winds were not blowing around the newly fallen snow, so in organized chaos we finished packing up and departed camp.
We then spent the day in and out of the clouds which saved us from the heat we have become quite accustomed to trying to avoid.
And now we are all set up at 14,000' Camp and looking forward to some rest after a hard week!
RMI Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the rest of the RMI team.
Enjoy your R&R at 14, and good luck when it’s time to move higher! Great following your excellent progress upwards!
Posted by: Henry & Kathy Huntington on 5/26/2022 at 9:11 am
AMAZING! Keep the post coming. They are a highlight of our day. :)
Posted by: Pat & Amy Breen on 5/26/2022 at 8:08 am
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Wednesday, May 25, 2022 - 10:13 pm PT
As the forecast promised, we watched evidence of wind evolve above us across the Alaska range today, but our home at 14,000' Camp was calm, warm, and quite pleasant. We made the most of it, repairing gear that's malfunctioned, visiting with friends across camp, and napping. Tomorrow is most likely more of the same, so we'll spend time organizing so that when the weather switch flips, we're ready. Yesterday as we headed up, another team that was taking a rest break told us that we "were a Porsche 911 turbo engine". We'll hope to fire that up on Friday.
RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team
Wednesday, May 25, 2022 - 4 pm PT
Once again I write from our comfortable camp in Genet Basin. There is not very much new to report. It is mostly sunny and calm down here. The story is different up above, where a large lenticular cloud had encapsulated the upper mountain. Our friends at High Camp have reinforced their snow walls and are hunkered in their tents. We are all hopeful for the decreased winds that are forecast for Friday afternoon. In the mountains, you are at the whim of the weather, and it is a fool's journey to act otherwise. Hopefully our patience will pay off soon with an opportunity to move higher. Until then, we're in chill mode. Reading, music, conversations, and crosswords are on the itinerary. A big breakfast scramble with plenty of coffee was a highlight this morning. It's important to savor the little things as we wait for our chance for further climbing forays.
Is wonderful to see everyone is in such thoughtful and knowledgeable hands.
Posted by: Anne on 5/25/2022 at 7:23 pm
Safety is priority #1. Your wise in waiting for safe climbing conditions. Hang in there, this will happen soon.
Posted by: Larry Shears on 5/25/2022 at 7:02 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Erika Birkeland, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Tuesday, May 24, 2022 - 11:32 pm PT
Things were pretty perfect this morning to take a burn on the fixed lines. When we move to 17,000' Camp, it will be with just the essentials. We'll leave luxury items, switch from burritos to freeze dried meals, and go with the plan to get the job done and get back down to thicker air. Thus, there really isn't much that we can cache between here and 17,000'. Instead of caching, our goal was to climb to to higher altitude to keep the acclimatization process progressing, and to get a chance to see the fixed lines without heavy packs. Our packs were light, the sky was clear, and conditions generally calm. We had a wonderful climb up to 16,200', spent a few minutes enjoying the views, then headed back down.
The fixed lines often spark some anxiety: how hard are they, how steep, we can't stop and take a break?!? After a practice run on them those nerves were quelled. Everybody was happy to get a chance with light packs and feel ready to go again, when we move to 17,000' Camp for the summit push. Seems that there is a bit of wind up high the next couple of days so we'll likely wait that out, and then hit the go button when things calm down again. So rest day tomorrow.
RMI Guides Pete, Erika, Leif, and team
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
Tuesday, May 24, 2022 - 7:42 pm PT
What a day it was today! We were able to cache at 13,500 ft. The winds were calm all day, and the clouds were only below us, which created a sense of floating through the sky as we carried out gear up the mountain.
Now we are back at 11,000' Camp, all safe and sound!!
RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI team
Great to hear!! Sam you’re crushing it!!
Posted by: Ramsay Bader on 5/25/2022 at 8:30 pm
Great job everybody! Thinking of you every day and hoping you’re having a great climb. Love you Clare and Sam!
Posted by: Kathy Huntington on 5/25/2022 at 3:08 pm
Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
We woke to a cold, clear sky this morning and fired up the stoves with hopes of climbing up to High Camp. Real time communication with friends currently at High Camp, and updated weather forecasts kept us grounded, though. The current wind and an increasingly windy trend are keeping us at our comfortable camp at 14,200' today. We continue to rest and acclimate as we await favorable weather for our foray up high. Spirits are high and we are optimistic that we will get our shot soon.
Until then, we are lounging in the sun, reading, listening to music, and hanging out--all part of the expedition experience. We will keep you updated on our status. As we patiently wait for our chance to move higher, we are happy to be in the mountains.
RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team
Been keeping up with the updates - I am excited and proud of this crew and this climb. You’ll move up the mountain soon and we are all on the edge of our seats for it!
We are cheering you all on! (Love you, Abby!)
Happy and strong climbing!
Posted by: Rae on 5/25/2022 at 6:18 am
An outstanding experience that is for sure. Hope your reasonable weather is coming soon. Stay safe and enjoy the wait. Always thinking of you
Posted by: Anne on 5/24/2022 at 8:06 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Monday, May 24, 2022 - 10:39 pm PT
We woke up hopeful to take a jaunt up the fixed lines this morning. The sky was clear above and it was nice in camp. As we fired the stoves and the sun got nearer to rounding the ridge though, we started seeing large plumes of snow jetting of the summit plateau, then 17,000' Camp, then the whole ridge and the top of the fixed line. It was really nice in camp but we made the decision it wasn't a day to go up into the wind and pivoted instead to walking across the basin to The Edge of the World (our British friends call it The End of the World). From there the basin plummets to the Northeast fork of the Kahiltna, some 6000' feet below. We got glimpses of those views but a cliff was rising up from the Glacier obscuring the full magnitude of the place. We were back by early afternoon and took a siesta. Some built a card table out of snow blocks and played eucher until they couldn't feel their backsides. We'll look again in the morning hopeful to make the trip up the fixed lines if conditions allow.
RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team
We really appreciate your everyday news.
Here’s some advice I got from my granddaughter as she climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro:
You climb and go for the summit for your ego.
You climb and take every step for your soul.
Much love, John and the team, Mom
Posted by: Barbara J Corona on 5/25/2022 at 11:12 am
Hey guys, hope everyone is doing well on the mountain. Ask Carl if he packed his magic cards. Wish you all a great weather window on your ascent to 17 camp! Best of luck to all. Ron
Posted by: Ron Jackson on 5/25/2022 at 7:41 am
Love seeing this top of the world images and imagining all you strong climbers taking it in. Good luck and thanks for sending these back down to the rest of us cheering for you!
Posted by: Sarah Williams on 6/1/2022 at 6:50 am
Hi Ken! Really enjoying the updates and pictures of the magnificent scenery!
Hope you and your teammates are all doing well!
Diane & John
Posted by: Diane & John Bertosa on 5/28/2022 at 10:52 am
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